Homemade Water / Air Hand Pump
Okay, here are the components that you will require. Parts- an inner tube for a bicycle PVC pipe in large diameter (I used 35mm) Plastic is required for both the large PVC pipe cap (I used two caps from some nutritional supplements; use whatever plastic would fit; you might cut them out of a plastic sheet) and the two little caps for the valves; thick bottle lids, make-up tubs, or other similar items would be appropriate. PVC pipe that is somewhat smaller in diameter (I used 25mm) 5mm hose connections and a dowel are utilized in this project (I used 16mm) 1 screw that will fit into the dowel without causing it to break.
The tools needed are a drill with several different drill bits, a utility knife, hot glue gun, and a few extra glue sticks.
Step 2: Pump Body/chamber
Making the pump chamber or the pump body is the first step. I cut a piece of 35mm PVC tubing to 12 inches (1 ft) in length and attached a cap from a supplement bottle to the end; you could use whatever you like as long as it fits and is water resistant. I would suggest something made of plastic. Perhaps a circle of 2mm plastic sheet cut to the same outside diameter as the PVC pipe will suffice. This will be the outlet of the pump, where the water and air will be discharged. In order to hold it in place, I placed hot glue inside the cap and then pressed the pipe on top of it.
A tiny hole was then bored through the centre of the cap with an 8mm drill bit, and that was all.
Step 3: Starting the Non-return Values
The non-return values are straightforward; they consist solely of the 25mm pipe and inner tube that have been capped off. Cut two sections of 25mm pipe to a length of 1.5 inches each. Shorter might have been OK, but I didn’t want to go that route. Try it out and see if it makes a difference in efficiency. Next, you’ll need to cut some tabs from the inner tube, which will serve as the flaps inside your non-return valves. Cut a circle with a long tab on it (see diagram), the circle should be slightly smaller than the internal diameter of your pipe but significantly larger than the hole in the pump chamber (mines 8mm) Hot glue the area where the tab joins the circle to the inside edge of the 25mm pipe such that the round protrudes from the pipe.
- Please keep in mind that at this point I should have cut a slightly smaller thin ridged circle of plastic and stuck it to the inner tube so that when folded back, it was on the inside of the tube, but I didn’t do so.
- NOTE: Repeat the process with the other two pieces of pipe you cut off.
- Now, we’ll glue the valves to our pump chamber with hot glue.
- Make sure to glue on the outside so that you don’t block the hole on the inside, and make sure to glue all the way around so that it is watertight as well.
- This should be done with the flap against the hole, so make sure it is folded back before you glue it.
Make sure to glue on the outside so that you don’t block the hole on the inside, and make sure to glue all the way around so that it is watertight as well. This will serve as the water’s discharge point.
Step 4: Finishing the Non-return Valves and Fitting the Nozels
Finishing off the non-return valves and installing our nozzles, which will enable us to join pipes, is next on the list. I put 5mm couplers on this, which will allow me to utilize a 5mm hose on this. As previously said, we need to cap off these vales, which means you must cut out two circles that are the same diameter as the exterior of the 25mm pipe. In this case, I took a coupler and cut it in half to give me two nozzles, then ran a utility knife through the inside of the nozzle where you cut just to get rid of the swarf, then drilled a hole through the middle that was slightly smaller in diameter than the outer diameter of the nozzles, using the utility knife to cut away any swarf that would otherwise obstruct the water/air flow, and finally installed the nozzles.
Now hot glue the exterior of one of these covers to the outside of the outlet valve, being careful to go all the way around the edge to ensure that it is water tight when finished.
Now you may fit your nozzles over the holes in the caps and hot glue them in place, making sure that they are watertight once again before continuing.
Step 5: Making the Plunger
Now that we’ve installed our non-return valves and constructed our pump chamber, we’ll need a plunger to pull and push the water around. Cut out two rings of hard plastic that are slightly less in diameter than the internal diameter of the 35mm PVC pipe, no more than 0.5 – 1 mm smaller in diameter. (As a result, I had to use 2mm ply because that was all I had on hand; I will replace it once I acquire some plastic.) Then, using the inner tube, cut a circle out of it that is 1.5mm in diameter bigger than the inside diameter of the pipe.
Afterwards, repeat the process on the opposite side with the other disc, resulting in a sandwich consisting of two plastic discs and a rubber disc.
Mine measured 12 inches in length (the length of the chamber + 5 inches for my grip, for a total of 17 inches).
Screw the screw through both layers, making sure it is snug, but not so tight that it warps or breaks the discs.
Step 6: Adding the Plunger and End Cap
So now that we have our plunger, we must fit it into the chamber. If we put the plunger in there right away, it will jam, so we must first grease the chamber by pouring a large amount of Petroleum Jelly into the chamber, which will end up being pushed down the inside of the chamber and coating the inside of it. As well as this, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly around the shaft of the plunger. Now, insert the sandwich end of the plunger into the chamber that has been coated with petroleum jelly; it ought to slip down smoothly and securely.
- Drill a few tiny holes around the main hole as well; this will allow air to escape the chamber when you pull the pump to draw water into it from the outside.
- When all of the glue has dried, it is ready to be used!
- If, on the other hand, you still find yourself pumping air, you may have a leak in one of the seals; check all of them to ensure they are watertight.
- If you find it difficult to pump with the lid on, consider drilling wider air holes to see if this helps.
- In hindsight, I would construct larger intake and exit holes, as well as larger hose and couplers, to let the water flow more easily.
My second model will be much easier to pump, and I will post a mark 2 version as soon as I have finished building it. This device might be used to pump water out of a pond in your yard to change the water, or to bail out a boat that has been flooded by rainwater. There are so many applications.
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For some reason, the photographs appear to be upside down on this site, yet they appear to be rightside up on my computer. Hmmm. For a kid’s toy, I required a hand-powered water pump, but the one I found at the hardware store was too small and cost $30 instead of $15 or $20. This one will cost you roughly $10, depending on how much spare materials you have laying around the house. The fundamental challenge is to produce two “check valves” as inexpensively as feasible. These are 1-way valves, in this instance actuated by superballs I recovered from the kids’ toy basket.
- The whole cost is as follows: $10.47.
- SXMPT is an abbreviation for Simple XML Markup Language (1) 1.
- PVC pipe 1 1/4″ x 2′ (two) Scrounged: – superballs that are tiny enough to fit in the mouth 1 and a quarter “The plunger should be made of dowel or square wood rod and should be as large as feasible in order to fit easily inside the PVC pipe with some wiggle room.
- – a supply of rubber or rubberized foam to seal the plunger.
- A worn-out sandal might also suffice.
Step 1: Layout of Parts
Prior to assembly, this diagram depicts the relative positions of the components.
Step 2: Secure Balls in Place
In order to prevent the balls from wandering too far from their bushings, drill holes for screws. You want enough space for the ball to move around and for water to pass through in the forward direction, but not so much that it takes too long for the ball to return to its original sealing position. I was about half way through the T when the elbow worked great for me.
Step 3: Assembly
Follow the pictures in the correct order. After each stage, tap the parts together with a rubber mallet to ensure a secure fit. If you want to cement it together, I recommend doing a dry fit first, placing each component roughly half-way into the other half to make sure everything is in place. For further information on how each component goes together, see to the comments in the photo mouse-overs.
Step 4: Making the Plunger
Make a circle out of foam or rubber scrap that is just a little bit bigger in diameter than the inner diameter of your plunger pipe. Attach it to the end of your dowel with a screw. Trim it step by step until it fits snugly, preventing water from escaping around the plunger but yet allowing it to glide easily. If you have access to a disk or drum sander, it will make this trimming a breeze. In order to limit the depth to which your plunger dowel rod may be inserted into the plunger pipe, you may choose to drill a screw into the side of the rod.
This provides you with a general-purpose pump that can be modified with screw-in fittings to accommodate any other pipe or hose that you may desire to connect to it.
The plunger, I believe, is the most prone to failure, but it is also the most straightforward to replace or fix.
In my opinion, there is no reason why this could not be scaled up to produce whatever volume of pump you like either by extending the length of the plunge pipe or by utilizing other diameter PVC pipes with larger balls.
Step 5: Fully Assembled
I won’t go into depth on how to construct the pump’s housing and hand lever because the underlying principles of the project are intended to be broadly adaptable. This is simply a photograph of how I put it to use, in a toy pump for my children’s entertainment. It readily squirts water up to 20 feet away. Enjoy!
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Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation During a protracted lack of electrical power, this manual pump may be installed into an existing well to provide water for a period of time. While high-quality professional hand pumps can cost up to $900, this cost-effective DIY option can be made for less than $100. PVC Schedule 40 pipe and fittings are used throughout the project.
- 1 Assemble the foot valve assembly as shown. The foot valve’s purpose is to enable water to flow into the cylinder while preventing it from flowing back out. “Cylinder” refers to the lowest pipe segment that contains the foot valve and plunder assembly. It is made up of the following elements, arranged from bottom to top:
- The components are as follows: A. 2in cap (not shown)
- B. 2in pipe screen with drilled holes (approximately 9in in length)
- C. 2in coupler
- D. 2×3/4 reducer
- E. 2×3/4 reducer with the lip filed out to allow for the 3/4in pipe to slide all the way through
- F. 2in coupler (not shown in the assembled image)
- G. 3/4in pipe (approximately 4 in long (not shown). It is compatible with coupler (f).
- 2 Put together the plunger assembly. The plunger is used for two different things. First and foremost, it creates a seal with the cylinder in order to generate suction. Second, it is equipped with a second check valve, which allows water to enter the higher cylinder.
- A 3/4-inch threaded pipe extension is available. Check valve (d) is screwed into the bottom of the spacers (b). The spacers’ goal is to maintain the gasket as stiff as possible. They should avoid making physical contact with the cylinder. You may score a ring in either side with a 2in hole saw, then bore out the inner hole with a 1-1/8in Forstner bit using a 1-1/8in Forstner bit. It is possible to finish the outside cut by using the hole saw once more. It is possible to make them out of wood or plastic. c. Gasket made of leather. Rubber is another material that may be used. Take care to trim it to a size that will fit snugly in the cylinder and on the pipe extension. When placing the assembly into the cylinder to check the fit, wet the leather first to make it more pliable. Without doing so, you will trim it too short and will have to start again
- 3/4-inch brass check valve (d) 3/8in slip-male thread adapter
- 3/8in pipe 6in length with drilled holes
- 3/8in pipe adapter. g. 3/4×1/2in slip reducer
- H. Rubber stopper, which permits water to enter the upper cylinder after passing through the check valve
- The 1/2-inch pipe holds everything in place (i). Pipe 1/2 inch in diameter
- Prevents water from coming up the pipe I
- s3 Determine the amount of connecting pipe that will be required. Connections between the cylinder and the pump head, as well as a connection between the plunger and a handle at the surface, require pipe. The length of pipe required is determined by the depth of the static water level in the well, which is measured in feet. In order to conserve money and weight, you can lower the diameter of the pipe from the top of the cylinder down to 1-1/4in diameter pipe. It does, however, increase the amount of force necessary to bring the water to the surface (hydraulic principles), which is undesirable.
- Remove the well cap first, then measure the static water depth and well depth to ensure that they are accurate. The electrical connections and a secondary cap will be revealed as a result of this. Using cement, this cap is attached to a pipe that connects to a pitless adapter (the device that holds the pump in place and connects the water from the pump to the line leading to the house below the frost level). You are not need to remove this cap or to turn on the pump at this moment, as you are simply interested in measuring the static water depth. To determine the static water depth, attach a weight to a string or light rope and measure the depth. When the weight enters the water, it is impossible to hear or see what is going on. Because of this, drop the weight a few feet and hoist it back up while keeping an eye out for water on the rope. Continue to drop the rope a few of feet farther each time, until the rope comes up wet on the bottom. Before drawing the rope out of the well, make a mark on the rope at the top of the well each time. Calculate the distance between the weight and the highest point on the rope. This is the static water depth
- Measuring the total depth of the well is more challenging because it is impossible to tell when you have reached the bottom of the reservoir (or the top of the pump). The use of fishing line may be beneficial
- Nonetheless, the static water depth is the most critical measurement to make. This represents the amount of pipe (both the 1-1/4in outer pipe and the 1/2in inner pipe) that is required for the installation. Use 20 feet (6.1 m) of pipe to cover the 15 feet (4.6 m) and keep the cylinder well below the static water level, as shown in the diagram. The pipe will be linked with threaded couplers to allow for easier construction and disassembly without the use of cement. One extra detail to mention is that a tiny hole will be drilled in the side of the 1-1/4in pipe a few feet below ground level to allow for easy access to the pipe. This will allow water to gently trickle back into the well from the top of the pipe, preventing freezing damage.
- 4 Assemble the pump head assembly from the components listed above. The pump head is responsible for diverting the water that comes up from the well to a spigot. From the plunger, a 1/2in pipe continues up to the pump head and into the top, where a handle is connected to operate the pump.
- A reducer measuring 1-1/4×1/2in. 7/8in Forstner bit to ream out the bore to allow 1/2in pipe to move freely
- B. 1-1/4×3/4in threaded T coupler
- C. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter
- D. 3/4in pipe
- E. 3/4in 45° elbow
- F. 3/4in pipe
- G. 3/4×1/2in slip-male thread reducer (optional)
- H. Brass female pipe, male hose adapter (optional).
- A gasket (b) must be fitted between the 1-1/4×1/2in reducer (a) and the pipe handle in order to prevent water from seeping up through the reduction. A washer (c) holds the gasket tightly to the reducer, and a 3/4×1/2in reducer (d) (cut short and reamed out) is cemented into the reducer (a) to hold the washer and gasket in place
- 5 a 3/4×1/2in reducer (d) (cut short and reamed out) is cemented into the reducer (a) to hold the washer and gasket in place
- Create the handle and lever arm from scratch. A T handle may be attached to the top of the 1/2-inch pipe to allow for direct management of the pump. Additionally, a lever handle may be connected to the pump head assembly, which is useful for deeper wells.
- You can also consider adding an alternate well cap that will accommodate the pump head assembly to your to-do list.
- 6Make sure the PVC pipe is protected. UV rays from the sun may cause PVC pipe to become brittle, and they can also degrade cement joints. To defend against this effect, any exposed PVC pipe should be coated with an opaque paint using a spray gun. 7 You should be aware of how the pump operates. A foot valve allows water to be sucked into the lower cylinder when the pump handle is raised up to the top position. Whenever the pump handle is pressed down, water is pumped through a check valve located above the plunger into an upper reservoir. Whenever the pump is raised to its full height, water is drawn in through the foot valve, and the water that had been put into the higher cylinder during the previous cycle is drawn to the surface as well.
- 1In the event that an alternate pump action is required, perform it. Using the mechanism shown above, water is raised to the surface of the water when the handle is dragged upward. In the absence of a lever handle, this may be uncomfortable and/or difficult because you are depending completely on the strength of your arm muscles to lift the water from the ground. The pump may be set such that it pushes water on the down stroke, taking use of your body weight in the process. It is sufficient to connect the 1/2in pipe handle directly to the brass check valve above the plunger in order to get this result. If you use this setup, the water will rise up the handle and you will need an entirely different pump head than you would normally use. (One possibility is to attach a hose to the T handle that is used to activate the pump.)
- s2 You should be aware that you could prefer the original design for the following reasons:
- It is possible that you do not want water to come out of the handle. Using a lever handle (which raises the water when you push down on the handle) may be in your plans
- However, this is not required. The force required to press down on the 1/2-inch pipe in order to complete the task may cause buckling problems. When using the alternate design, the water in the pipe must still be drawn to the surface. Assume that the cylinder above the plunger is empty in this scenario. There is a strong probability that the gasket will not form a complete seal and that water will seep into the chamber regardless of what is done. It is more difficult to remove water from an interior pipe in order to avoid frost damage.
- 3Construct an alternate pipe arrangement. Another alternative design employs a rigid pusher rod rather than the 1/2in pipe (which could also be used in the original design above) and a separate supply pipe to the surface, as seen in the illustration. This design requires more materials, may not fit in most wells, and the pump head may be more sophisticated. It is also more expensive. This option functions in the same way as the previous one. It is only in this case that the water pipe and pusher rod have been separated. Advertisement
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- When removing an existing pump from a well, it may be necessary to use a winch. Attach an eye bolt to the bottom of the cylinder and a rope to the surface of the cylinder to complete the installation. It can be used to assist in lifting the hand pump out of the well and also to prevent the complete system from falling out of reach farther down the well. Equipment and gear should be secured to prevent them from falling into the well. It is also possible to power the pump with a windmill.
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- Observe all applicable zoning and construction codes in your area. It is possible that accessing a well will result in pollution. Ensure that equipment is properly disinfected by using suitable disinfectants. Take precautions by wearing hearing and eye protection. If you are unsure about accessing or changing an existing well system, you should get expert assistance.
Things You’ll Need
- Materials for the initial design (basic materials)
- 1/2 inch slip-male thread adapter (3)
- 2 inch coupler (2)
- 2×3/4 inch reducer (2)
- 3/4×1/2 inch decrease (2)
- 3/4in threaded extender
- 1-1/4 inch 45° elbow
- 1/2 inch T coupler
- 1/2 inch plug (2)
- 2 inch pipe (approximately 3 feet)
- 1-1/4 inch pipe and couplers
- 1/2 inch pipe and couplers
- 3/4 inch pipe (approximately 3 feet)
- A rubber stopper
- A 2in leather or rubber gasket
- A small rubber gasket and washer (which fits over 1/2in pipe)
- Pipe cement
- And the necessary tools. 2in hole saw
- 7/8in Forstner bit
- 1-1/8in Forstner bit
- Hand drill or drill press
- 3/8in drill bit
- File/rasp (to ream out the 2×3/4in reducer)
- 2×3/4in reducer
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1 out of 5 John Hartz of Elmira, Oregon, shows off his Holopump construction method. 2 / 5 Diagram: Detail of the outer pipe. JOHN HARTZ is an American businessman and philanthropist. Material for the Holopump is depicted in the third of the fifth chart. EMPLOYEES AT MOTHER EARTH NEWS 4 / 5 Diagram: Detail of the rod. JOHN HARTZ is an American businessman and philanthropist. 5 out of 5 stars A demonstration of the Holopump by John Hartz of Elmira, Oregon is shown here. KELLY FENLEY, THE REGISTER-GAURD/CREATIVE SERVICES, is shown here.
- A do-it-yourself manual well pump made of PVC.
- It turns out that saying it was easier than doing it.
- Lightweight manual pitcher pumps are available for purchase for under $50, but they only function to a depth of around 25 feet, which is approximately 20 feet short of what we need.
- I sat down to the drawing board, determined to come up with a solution to my aggravation.
- All of the components are readily accessible at, or can be obtained via, virtually any hardware shop.
How the PVC Manual Well Pump Works
The design is quite straightforward: An inner pumping rod, which is connected with a coupler and cap at one end, is slid into a water pipe outside the house. Water equal to the volume of the rod rises into the pipe with each downward stroke of the pumping rod; this is referred to as positive displacement, and it occurs independent of the force or speed with which the downward stroke is made. In fact, it’s preferable to take a long and methodical downstroke when writing. Acceleration is required on the upward stroke: This stroke must be completed quickly enough so that new water may enter the pipe before the water that has already entered the pipe drains around the coupler and end cap.
In order to prevent water from draining back into the well, a simple foot valve is installed at the end of the water line.
Both the upward and downward strokes of the spout result in water being released.
With the right amount of effort applied, you may expect to take two to three gallons of water per minute from a well with a static water level of 60 feet by pushing down slowly and continuously and lifting up swiftly with the right amount of force applied.
Well Depth vs. Water Level
It is critical to distinguish between the following two concepts: The depth of your well is the distance between the surface of the ground and the bottom of the well. The gap between the mound level and the surface of your well water is known as the water level. A person may have a well with a depth of 175 feet but a static water level of 30 feet. An appropriate solution in this situation would be a 40-foot Holopump (constructed from two 20-foot sections of pipe).
Well Pump Depth Limitations
The Holopump designs on these pages are for a 70-foot-long unit, which is ideal for a well with a static water level of 60 feet. Despite the fact that I am aware that some people have successfully gone a little deeper with my design, I still believe that the 60-foot model (with 70 or 80 feet of pipe) is the realistic depth limit for this pump, and thus that is the maximum length I feel comfortable recommending. For an 80-foot pump, just replace the last piece of both the rod and the water pipe with 20-foot lengths of PVC, rather as the 10-foot lengths specified in the designs.
Assembly and Installation of the PVC Manual Well Pump
However, while the Holopump is quite simple to put together, putting it down your well properly is a bit more difficult. The installation of a well may be best handled by an experienced expert if you have never worked on one before or are unfamiliar with the current components of your well. Those considering taking the do-it-yourself path should be aware of the following: Before undertaking any work that includes modifying existing plumbing or wiring, it is necessary to turn off the electricity and ensure that there is no pressure in the water lines (open the faucet nearest the well and wait for the water flow to stop).
- In addition, you’ll want to be certain that the pump you install conforms with any applicable rules or legislation in your jurisdiction.
- It is possible that you may need to drill a hole in the replacement cap for the air vent or wire access hole.
- 2) Using the primer and cement product cans, adhere the rod segment together in the manner illustrated above, following the manufacturer’s directions (see the Materials Chart in the image gallery, Items 15 and 16).
- This covers goods that pass through the well cap (Item 9) and those that are below the well cap.
- Allow enough time for all bonded PVC joints to dry completely.
- If you are familiar with the plumbing in your current well, you can estimate the amount of weight you will be carrying about.
- You don’t want to risk losing anything down your well at any costs.
(You may wish to employ a well technician just to use his hoisting equipment, but that isn’t a bad reason!) 5) Pour water into the well through the main pipe portion.
Allow the foot valve end to snake itself down the well casing while working together to make an arc with the pipe.
Be cautious with the wiring and pipes that are already in place.
Put your finger into the metal pipe segment and tighten it with the steel coupler (Item 8) to prevent it from falling out.
6) Attach the spout part to the base of the spout.
Feed the rod all the way down the main line.
That’s all there is to it.
It takes a little experience to obtain the most water per calorie expended, but the most important thing to remember is to press down slowly and consistently and draw up fast for the best results.
When it comes to killing germs in water, there are several chlorine-based remedies available, and as a well owner, you’re probably already acquainted with at least one of them.
Following the installation of the pump, you should have your water tested for bacterial contamination. On the website www.motherearthnews.com, you may find additional Do-It-Yourself articles.
saw with a hand (any saw that will cut a wood board will easily cut PVC pipe) Wood rasps that are medium or fine in texture Wrench with an adjustable end (8-, 10- or 12-inch) A couple of medium-sized pipe wrenches or slip joint pliers would do the job well (12- to 18-inch) Driver (screwdriver) (for disconnecting and reconnecting wiring) Drilling with a 1/2-inch bit (to drill an extra port in your well cap for a vent; alternatively, you can do as I did and tee the electric pump wiring and vent together at the the well cap)
Published on Jun 1, 2000
Learn basket making by foraging wisteria, kudzu, honeysuckle, grape and bramble vines to weave a natural fiber basket that’s perfect for everyday use. By running our own businesses on our own terms, we’ve been able to maximize our freedom and we hope to help others do the same. A longtime apartment composter offers techniques and tips that make recycling organic waste in cramped spaces not just possible but also accessible. Copyright 2022, All Rights Reserved | Ogden Publications, Inc.
How to make your own DIY hand pump
Water is, without a doubt, one of the most important factors if things go south. Because your brain becomes increasingly dehydrated, you can only survive for about three days without drinking water. For some reason, the books that tell you this don’t emphasize the fact that you’re more likely to die much sooner than that because your brain begins to function incorrectly the more dehydrated you become. Add to that the headaches and other symptoms of dehydration that you have to cope with, and you have a prescription for catastrophe.
- I’ll be producing multiple posts in the future on various methods of collecting and filtering water, but first and foremost, you must gather the water.
- You’re in far more risk of running out of water than you believe you are.
- In those instances, you’re most likely utilizing energy to deliver it to yourself.
- If you lose access to water, you will not only get dehydrated, but you will also lose the capacity to perform adequate sanitation and waste management, which will result in sickness.
- Some of them are difficult to access, so being able to just drop a hose into them (such as a steep riverbank edge) makes it a lot easier to deal with them.
- To put it another way, this should work anyplace you need to transport a significant amount of water from one location to another.
- However, there is still hope.
It’s only a matter of getting it out of the little hole and into a position where you can reach it.
Also, if you have the reverse situation and are flooded, you will require a pump to remove the extra water from the area, and you may not have access to energy in this case.
This is where the manual water pump comes in.
You’ll need to understand how a simple water handpump works, as well as how to construct one.
Knowing what you know about me and what you’ve read on my blog, you know that I’m all about comprehending the concept of things and adjusting to the present scenario rather than simply knowing a technique to accomplish something that may or may not be useful when you need it.
The check valve is essential in the operation of this type of pump.
The goal of a check valve in everyday life is to enable water or air to flow in one direction while preventing it from flowing in the other.
In order for a pump to function, you must have a hose that extends from where your water is (which is connected to the INLET) and another hose that extends from where the water is going (which is attached to the OUTLET).
Transporting water is straightforward, but if you want it to be super-simple, you should use a pump that looks similar to a bicycle tire pump.
Those pumps are only capable of going up and down. The only thing you’ll be doing is pumping in water and pumping it straight back out where it came from if you don’t have a mechanism to enable water to go in one direction and out the other.
The hand pump concept:
The piston, the intake check valve, and the output check valve are the only three parts that make up a hand pump: there are no other parts. The secret is in figuring out how to manufacture each of them. It is necessary for water to flow in just one direction and not in both. A check valve is specifically intended to accomplish this. In the hose that connects your water supply to your pump, there is a check valve. While it allows water to be pulled through the hose and into your pump, it clogs up and prevents the water from flowing back through.
When you pull up on the lever, it allows you to push water out of your pump, but it prevents water from being pushed back into the pump.
How does a check valve work?
The check valve is critical to the success of this entire procedure. If you have two of them, all you have to do is figure out how to get water to flow through them in order to create a pump. A tube of some form can be used to create a check valve, which is a fairly basic method. A ball is contained within this tube. The tube has one end that is slightly larger than the ball, allowing water (or air) to flow around the ball without difficulty. The tube narrows at some point in the center, making it impossible for the ball to pass through.
- That’s pretty much how a check valve works in terms of idea.
- Because a ball may not provide a completely water-tight seal against a narrower pipe, a rubber o-ring may be placed around the smaller part to ensure that the ball pushes against the smaller piece.
- The shape of your smaller pipe will be better formed if you use a softer ball, such as a bouncy-ball, rather than a hard ball.
- There are two options for putting a halt to this.
- If the surface is sloping, it will become more difficult to remove.
- That is a little more difficult to do, but it may be required in some situations.
- In addition, when the check valve is open and water is flowing from the narrower end toward the wider end and around the ball, the ball will naturally desire to go down the bigger pipe in order to keep up with the water flow.
- To prevent this from happening, you’ll need a means to prevent the ball from traveling too far down the tube while yet allowing it to break free from the point where it’s sealed at the beginning of the narrow segment.
- This permits the ball to travel toward the bigger end when the water flows in that direction, so opening the valve, but the pin prevents the ball from moving too far away from the valve’s opening.
If you don’t put it in the proper location, it will either not allow the ball to leave where it seals or it will allow it to go down so far that you will be forced to push water for a period of time with each pump that returns from where it came from.
The plunger (piston) section explained
The pump is a little less difficult to comprehend. Simply insert another sealed tube into a tube with a reasonable amount of capacity and press the two tubes together against the sides is all that is required. The sizes are all determined by what you have accessible and how much physical effort you are willing to put up. The difficult element is achieving a good seal that allows you to push and pull the inner tube within the outer tube without it becoming damaged. Obviously, you’ll need a means to link one end of this inner tube to whatever it is that’s supplying electricity to your pump.
- The end of the pipe might be attached to a wheel with a flexing connection, letting a bicycle or motor to power it just as simply (well, maybe not quite as easy, but bear with me).
- As previously said, the inner pipe must be fitted securely against the outer pipe in order for the water you push and pull to not squeeze out between the two pipes while yet allowing you to transfer it smoothly between them.
- It may take a number of tries to get the sizes just right, but it isn’t too tough to figure out what you need.
- Similarly to how the 0-rings press out against the outer pipe, the rubber will press out against the outside pipe.
- If your inner tube and cork are the same size, you may also place a cork on the end of the inner tube.
So how does the pump work?
First, let’s assume that the pump has been inserted completely into the pipe. Obviously, the first step is to press the plunger all the way up. While pulling the inner pipe/tube/pvc/whatever out of the bigger pipe/tube/pvc/whatever, water is drawn into the piston. This is due to the fact that you have some form of seal. Pulling on the handle forces the plunger into the piston, creating a vacuum within the outer tube that is more than likely greater than the pressure that is keeping your water in the reservoir.
- As you pull, water is drawn from your water supply, via the feed tube, and into your pump, which is powered by your pull.
- The ball inside is pushed away from the thin tube inside it and toward the wire, enabling the water to flow around it.
- (See image below.) It would otherwise be necessary to either suck in air into your pump or water from the location where you require it to go.
- Let’s take the plunger and press it back down.
- Both of the check valve balls are moved away from the pump as a result of this pressure.
- It would be counterproductive to take water from your source and push it back out again.
- Afterwards, the water that is being pushed out of your hand pump is permitted to flow around that ball and out the exit tube.
- So, let’s have a look at a video to see how you may go about actually building one of these utilizing this notion.
That’s essentially all there is to the logic behind how a simple hand pump works in the first place. Almost every pump on the market today is a variation on this subject. If you grasp the fundamentals of pump design, you can build virtually any type of pump.
How to Make Your Own Faux Hand Water Pump
Have you ever had a strong desire for something, but no matter how hard you tried, you simply couldn’t seem to locate anything that matched your budget? As an illustration, consider the following. My dream garden water pump has been in my head for as long as I can remember: a nice old-fashioned hand water pump. It took us a while to find one or two on the internet and in our local rural towns, but they were either too expensive or unavailable for purchase. Bah humbug, but if aDIY-er really wants something, the only thing they can do is build it themselves.
Creativity doesn’t wait for that perfect moment. It fashions its own perfect moments out of ordinary ones.Bruce Garrabrandt
In my honest opinion, it’s very awesome. .and it all started with a sketch, a few plumbing components, and a piece of PVC pipe. And if you’ve been following our site for a while, you’ll know how much we enjoy creating things out of PVC pipes, from cable spools to huge pencils and everything in between. Consequently, if you’re searching for a hand pump but can’t bring yourself to part with a large sum of money, here’s a DIY instruction on how to create your own and properly prepare the PVC pipes for painting.
What you need to make a faux hand water pump
To construct the water pump, you’ll need the following materials:
- 2 x female stop end caps (female stop end caps) 110 mm (4 3/8′′)
- 1 x 90-degree reducing elbow
- A socket reducer that goes from 50mm to 40mm (2′′ x 1 1/2′′)
- T or junction made of PVC for hygienic purposes The dimensions are 110mm × 50mm (4 3/8′′ x 2′′)
- PVC cement or glue
- PVC pipe in the sizes of 40 mm (1 1/2′′), 50 mm (2′′), 110 mm (4 3/8′′), and 110 mm (4 3/8′′).
All I had to worry about was getting the plumbing parts because we use PVC pipes in a lot of our DIY projects and always have off-cuts laying around. For those sections that are a little more “technical,” such as the junction, I like to go toPlumb-Ithere in Centurion for assistance. When I get into the store, they have this amazing, cool sales girl who just whizzes around the shelves to find the stuff I’m searching for without giving me the look that says “You want to do WHAT!” You’ll also require
- Sandpaper and acetone in 100 grit
- Black plastic spray paint in a can
- M10 thread bar and washers to fit
- Scrap pieces of wood
- Nuts and bolts that are rusted
- A drill, a hole saw, and a hand saw are required.
I’ve included a rough sketch of the pump dimensions for your consideration (thank you for reaching out and requesting one Rick). Please feel free to modify the dimensions to meet your needs.
How to make a faux hand water pump with PVC pipes
First and foremost, we must prepare and cut the pipes and fittings that will be used in our hand pump. Because PVC can be difficult to paint, I prefer to complete the majority of the preparation work before cutting the pipes.
How to prep PVC pipes and fittings for painting
Using 100 grit sandpaper, scour and roughen the PVC pipes and fittings to give them a more rustic appearance. It’s possible that your fittings have marks on them, which are quite easy to remove with sandpaper as well. Please be careful to sand into every crack and crevice possible. Acetone should be used to clean the PVC once all of the parts have been roughed up. It aids in opening up the “pores” for improved paint adherence while also removing any dust and greasy residue from the surface. The PVC pipes are now ready to be painted at this point.
Rust-Oleum is my preferred brand since they have a wide variety of colors to pick from and can be found at any hardware shop here in South Africa.
So choose the brand that works best for you, as long as the can clearly states that it “works on plastic.” To begin, we must cut all of the pipes and put them together to form the hand pump, which will be painted when it has dried.
Cutting the PVC Pipes
Our imitation hand water pump stands 30 cm (11 3/4′′) tall, minus the pump handle, and measures a total of 43 cm (17′′) in length. If you want yours to be taller, you may modify the sizes shown below. I cut the PVC pipes in the following ways for the water pump and spout:
- Using 40 mm (1 1/2′′) PVC pipe, measure and cut one x 50 mm (2′′) piece
- Using 50 mm (2′′) PVC pipe, measure and cut one x 50 mm (2′′) piece If you wish to make your water spout longer, cut the 50 mm (2′′) PVC pipe a little bit longer.
- PVC pipe 110mm (4 3/8′′) in diameter – measure and cut two sections of 30mm (1 2/8′′) PVC pipe. If you want your hand pump to be higher, make the necessary modifications.
Putting the pieces together – water spout
The water spout is made up of four parts, which are illustrated below:
- 90-degree reducing elbow
- Socket reducer – 50mm x 40mm (2′′ x 1 1/2′′)
- 50 mm (2′′) piece of 40 mm (1 1/2′′) PVC pipe
- 50 mm (2′′) piece of 50mm (2′′) PVC pipe
- 90-degree reducing elbow
- Socket reducer – 50mm x 40mm (2
Insert the socket reducer into one end of the 90-degree elbow and use PVC cement or adhesive to bond the 40 mm (1 1/2′′) piece of pipe into the socket reducer’s opening. Put a drop of glue on the opposite end of the reducer and insert the 50mm length of pipe.
Putting the pieces together – pump body
The following materials are used to construct the hand water pump’s body:
- 2 x 30mm (1 2/8′′) pieces of the 110mm (4 3/8′′) PVC pipe
- A PVC sanitary T or junction 110mm x 50mm (4 3/8′′ x 2′′)
- 2 x 30mm (1 2/8′′) pieces of the 110mm (4 3/8′′) PVC pipe 2 × female stop end caps, 110 mm (4 3/8′′)
- 2 x male stop end caps, 110 mm (4 3/8′′)
When you turn on and off the stop end caps, they have these strange tiny knobs that make it simpler to turn on and off. I didn’t want a knobby hand water pump, so I removed them with pliers before installing the new one. It’s as simple as snipping and twisting. The little scars left behind by the “knob surgery” can be rubbed away with 100 grit sandpaper to make them disappear. Putting the pump’s body together is also a straightforward process. Then, using hot glue, attach the 30mm (1 2/8′′) section of the 110mm (4 3/8′′) PVC pipe (the rings you can see below) to the female stop end cap (see picture below).
If you’re simply going to use yours as a decorative element in the garden, you may skip this step.
You should have a water pump that looks similar to the one shown below.
If possible, apply a couple light applications and allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next.
Adding the faux hand pump mechanism
Rightyo, the main body of the pump is almost completely finished. It’s time to start working on the pump handle stuff. In the end, we decided against getting a metal handle fabricated since it was too expensive (no pun intended). With our jigsaw, we quickly and easily carved it out of a piece of wood. It has the appearance of a little tadpole. After sanding the handle smooth, we used the same spray paint to give it a couple coats of black before drilling a hole in the handle to accommodate a thread bar that had been cut to the proper length earlier in the process.
Add a nut to one end of the thread bar to finish it off.
Consequently, the spouse chopped two screws (okay, yes, I know I frequently mix my nuts with my screws) and glued them into place.
We drilled four more holes around the edge so that we could later put nuts and screws to give it a more realistic appearance.
We used paint stirrers for the parts on the side of the handle, which we cut into a curved form with our jigsaw to create the curvy shape. They were secured to the handle with glue and screws to ensure they remained in place.
Adding a metal patent sign
We’re almost finished. There is no requirement to go to the next stage. It seemed like the imitation hand water pump lacked just one more tiny small element to bring the whole thing together. A little metal sign with a message. It’s made from an empty tin can and manually stamped with a metal stamping kit, which you can find here. We used pop rivets to connect the sign to the wall after marking the location where it would be placed. That’s all there is to it. From PVC pipes and fittings to a fake hand water pump complete with a “patent number” and other rusted parts, everything is made out of PVC.
Here’s another angle to consider in the interim.
I would have preferred a metal one, but for the time being, we must make due with what we have.
If you like the idea, don’t forget to pin it for later.
What are your thoughts? Would you create one for your garden if you couldn’t find a genuine one to put in your yard? We also have some of the items we utilized available for purchase if you want to replicate our style. We would like to disclose that by clicking on the links below, we may get a commission from Amazon. We promise that it will not come out of your wallet and that it will help us create even more fantastic crafts to share with you in the future. And if you want to purchase rather than make anything yourself, these beauties could be of interest.