Rheem Professional Classic Tankless Electric RTEX-08 Water Heater, Gray – – Amazon.com
5.0 stars out of 5 for this product Excellent tiny heater, however take note of my faults. On December 7, 2020, the United States will conduct a review. This is a fantastic tiny water heater. It’s going to be used for a modest studio apartment. It is used to power a shower, a bathroom sink, and a kitchen sink, among other things. A word of caution: We were certain that there was a ghost in the wall since the water heated nicely until the shower turned on, but it wasn’t. After then, it was a complete waste of time.
It turned out that adjusting the output valve down to around half of its maximum setting resolved all of our issues.
Please bear in mind that the 8w unit is hardly enough to keep the shower running.
If you have the option of upgrading to a little larger unit, I would strongly recommend it if you plan on doing much more than simply powering a sink.
Top reviews from the United States
On December 18, 2017, a review was conducted in the United States. Purchase that has been verified My profession is that of a general contractor. On Maui, this hardly heats the water in a shower. ONLY for use with a sink is this beneficial. Avoid being misled into believing that this will provide you with a hot shower, unless you believe the trickle of water to be considered a shower. I tried using a low-flow head as well, but it just couldn’t keep up. I had to eat this one since it had been too long after I purchased it.
- I exchanged the other one I received for a different property.
- The Eco Smart 11 will provide a satisfactory hot shower, but it will not fill a bathtub at 13 kW, and this is 8kW in total.
- On December 7, 2020, the United States will conduct a review.
- It’s going to be used for a modest studio apartment.
- A word of caution: We were certain that there was a ghost in the wall since the water heated nicely until the shower turned on, but it wasn’t.
- We spent a significant amount of time troubleshooting this unit and were about to tear down the wall to ensure that the shower was correctly plumbed.
- You may either utilize a flow limiter or just turn the output valve down to reduce the flow rate.
It is functional, but it is unable to heat water for anything else at the same time as the shower is running.
In retrospect, I would have done that, but I would have had to redo the electric.
On December 7, 2020, the United States will conduct a review.
It’s going to be used for a modest studio apartment.
A word of caution: We were certain that there was a ghost in the wall since the water heated nicely until the shower turned on, but it wasn’t.
We spent a significant amount of time troubleshooting this unit and were about to tear down the wall to ensure that the shower was correctly plumbed.
You may either utilize a flow limiter or just turn the output valve down to reduce the flow rate.
It is functional, but it is unable to heat water for anything else at the same time as the shower is running.
In retrospect, I would have done that, but I would have had to redo the electric.
Purchase that has been verified I purchased this to replace my RTE 9, which has been in perfect working order for more than 6 years since I installed it on November 1, 2013, when I got rid of my propane tank in my garage.
Who knows, I might be able to get 10 years out of this deal.
Consequently, I got rid of my propane water heater, which you can see in the first shot.
Due to the fact that I do not have an electric dryer, I disconnected this breaker and just tied it out of the way.
In the upper right corner, there was a knockout.
A single layer of drywall separates the electric panel from the rest of the room.
Two wires to the breaker and a bare copper ground wire to the panel on the right complete the circuit breaker installation.
The RTE 9 is shown linked in the third photograph.
Both PEX and copper were used in the construction.
Aside from that, I’ve lowered the temperature a little.
As a single person who lives alone in a 14 by 52 foot singlewide, I require a water heater for the entire house.
Consumer Reports warned that tankless hot water heaters might clog, but after more than six years of use, I’m happy with how well this tankless water heater has performed for me and my family.
5.0 stars out of 5 for this product My RTE 9 has been operational for more than 6 years.
I purchased this to replace my RTE 9, which has been in perfect working order for more than 6 years since I installed it on November 1, 2013, when I got rid of my propane tank in my garage.
Who knows, I might be able to get 10 years out of this deal.
Consequently, I got rid of my propane water heater, which you can see in the first shot.
Due to the fact that I do not have an electric dryer, I disconnected this breaker and just tied it out of the way.
In the upper right corner, there was a knockout.
A single layer of drywall separates the electric panel from the rest of the room.
Two wires to the breaker and a bare copper ground wire to the panel on the right complete the circuit breaker installation.
The RTE 9 is shown linked in the third photograph.
Both PEX and copper were used in the construction.
Aside from that, I’ve lowered the temperature a little.
As a single person who lives alone in a 14 by 52 foot singlewide, I require a water heater for the entire house.
Consumer Reports warned that tankless hot water heaters might clog, but after more than six years of use, I’m happy with how well this tankless water heater has performed for me and my family.
Reviewed on May 2, 2019 in the United States of America Purchase that has been verified R-Tex8 has been successfully installed and looks to be operational.
Previously installed units (type RTE-9) failed, with the most recent failing due to rusting out and leakage after a little over two years (see photo).
Only the kitchen and utility area were served by the units that were installed.
Take note, too, of the fact that the dedicated 40 Amp breaker and 8 wire force you to replace the unit with one that meets the exact same specifications, unless you are willing to run new wire and install a separate circuit breaker.
Remember that hard water will generate a build-up of “scale” over a period of time (usually around a year).
It is now recommended that you flush the RTEX-8 unit once a year to keep the scale build-up under control, according to the new RTEX-8 instructions.
In addition, once water service to the house is interrupted, always switch off your unit and let it run for a few minutes to restore normalcy.
This device is a hassle to work with and is quite delicate.
When this one dies, I’ll just use a 30 gallon tank in the attic as a replacement!
Reviewed on May 2, 2019 in the United States of America R-Tex8 has been successfully installed and looks to be operational.
Previously installed units (type RTE-9) failed, with the most recent failing due to rusting out and leakage after a little over two years (see photo).
Only the kitchen and utility area were served by the units that were installed.
Take note, too, of the fact that the dedicated 40 Amp breaker and 8 wire force you to replace the unit with one that meets the exact same specifications, unless you are willing to run new wire and install a separate circuit breaker.
Remember that hard water will generate a build-up of “scale” over a period of time (usually around a year).
It is now recommended that you flush the RTEX-8 unit once a year to keep the scale build-up under control, according to the new RTEX-8 instructions.
In addition, once water service to the house is interrupted, always switch off your unit and let it run for a few minutes to restore normalcy.
This device is a hassle to work with and is quite delicate.
When this one dies, I’ll just use a 30 gallon tank in the attic as a replacement!
Purchase was verified.
Rheem is a thankless person.
According to the description and other places I reviewed, the water input / outlet compression connections at the heater change did not fit any longer than 1/2 cooper tubing within the connectors and had to be placed flush to the compression ring.
Purchase that has been verified I’ve gone through three of Rheem’s previous generation units, which were metal boxes with a little smaller profile.
This one is made of plastic and appears to be of a lower quality manufacture, but only time will tell. Better than a hot water tank that would have to keep reheating the same water over and over for the rest of my life, plus I now have a beautiful area in the garage for the Harley;)
Top reviews from other countries
On December 18, 2017, the United States Department of Justice released a report. Purchase has been verified A general contractor is someone who does everything. On Maui, a shower barely gets warm enough to be useful. ONLY for use with a sink is this appropriate? Avoid being misled into believing that this will provide you with a hot shower, unless you consider running water to be considered a shower. In addition, I tried a low-flow head and found that it simply couldn’t keep up with the pace.
- It was exchanged for another condo, so I returned the other one.
- It will provide an adequate hot shower but will not fill a bathtub because it operates at 13 kW, while this is 8 kW.
- On December 7, 2020, the United States will review the document.
- For a small studio apartment, I’m putting it to good use!
- Word of caution: We were convinced there was a ghost in the wall because the water heated perfectly until we turned on the shower, but it wasn’t.
- It was an extremely difficult unit to work on, and we were on the verge of tearing down the wall to ensure that the shower was properly piped and connected.
- The output valve can be turned down either by using a flow limiter or by simply turning the valve itself down.
However, it is only capable of heating water for the shower and not for anything else.
In retrospect, I probably should have, but I’d have to redo the electrical.
This is an excellent small heater, but please learn from my errors.
The water heater is a fantastic little device.
Shower, bathroom sink, and kitchen sink are all powered by this generator.
After that, nothing happened.
The output valve was turned down to approximately half of its maximum setting, which resolved all of our issues.
Please keep in mind that the 8w unit will only just barely keep the shower running.
The slightly larger unit, if you have the option, would be highly recommended if you’re doing much more than simply powering a sink.
Several photographs are included in this review.
I purchased this to replace it.
Who knows, I might be able to squeeze 10 years out of this deal!
Consequently, I got rid of my propane water heater, which you can see in the first photo above.
In my absence of an electric dryer, I simply disconnected this breaker and tied it out of the way with a piece of twine.
Upper right corner of the screen was smashed by a knockout.
Behind the electric panel, there is only a sheet of drywall.
Wire the breaker with two conductors and the panel on the right with one conductor and a bare copper ground wire Consequently, the three feet of electric wire that was already attached to the water heater itself was sufficient for my purposes.
Plumbing connectors were connected with the help of a SharkBite push.
While showering in the winter, I turn up the water temperature to its highest setting.
In order to avoid running both hot and cold water at the same time, I almost exclusively use my hot water faucet.
That is something I am very happy about.
As soon as it reached the 6-year mark, I made the decision to simply purchase another one so that I would be prepared when the inevitable happened and the old one stopped functioning.
For more than six years, my RTE 9 has been operational.
I purchased this to replace it.
Who knows, I might be able to squeeze 10 years out of this deal!
Consequently, I got rid of my propane water heater, which you can see in the first photo above.
In my absence of an electric dryer, I simply disconnected this breaker and tied it out of the way with a piece of twine.
Upper right corner of the screen was smashed by a knockout.
Behind the electric panel, there is only a sheet of drywall.
Wire the breaker with two conductors and the panel on the right with one conductor and a bare copper ground wire Consequently, the three feet of electric wire that was already attached to the water heater itself was sufficient for my purposes.
Plumbing connectors were connected with the help of a SharkBite push.
While showering in the winter, I turn up the water temperature to its highest setting.
In order to avoid running both hot and cold water at the same time, I almost exclusively use my hot water faucet.
That is something I am very happy about.
As soon as it reached the 6-year mark, I made the decision to simply purchase another one so that I would be prepared when the inevitable happened and the old one stopped functioning.
There are several reasons for my two-star rating, including the fact that this is my third large Rheem unit in the previous five years and a variety of faults.
Only hope remains for the RTEX-8, which has been reworked to be more durable.
You may use this unit to operate a shower (at least until it stops working), but do not attempt to do so with this small unit.
Because my breaker box is completely filled, I didn’t have that choice.
RTE-9 guidelines from the past were basically saying this: Unfortunately, you’ll just have to clear out your faucet aerators once a week, which I had to do because the water was no longer running otherwise.
Except that the only way to do it is to detach the pipes, locate an adapter that will allow you to join the hose to the unit, flush it with white vinegar, and then reconnect it with extreme care and precision (because instructions say NEVER over tighten the connections or you can damage the sensors).
- It’s impossible to imagine anyone in the world remembering to do that.
- So.
- the rating is 2.0 out of 5 Once again, everything works out.
- There are several reasons for my two-star rating, including the fact that this is my third large Rheem unit in the previous five years and a variety of faults.
- Only hope remains for the RTEX-8, which has been reworked to be more durable.
- You may use this unit to operate a shower (at least until it stops working), but do not attempt to do so with this small unit.
- Because my breaker box is completely filled, I didn’t have that choice.
- RTE-9 guidelines from the past were basically saying this: Unfortunately, you’ll just have to clear out your faucet aerators once a week, which I had to do because the water was no longer running otherwise.
Except that the only way to do it is to detach the pipes, locate an adapter that will allow you to join the hose to the unit, flush it with white vinegar, and then reconnect it with extreme care and precision (because instructions say NEVER over tighten the connections or you can damage the sensors).
- It’s impossible to imagine anyone in the world remembering to do that.
- So.
- Several photographs are included in this assessment.
- My purchase of this heater was solely for the purpose of replacing an existing 1 1/2 year old heater.
- The description and other sources I reviewed did not offer appropriate information.
- Examined on June 17, 2020 in the United States.
- Every one of them worked in the AC garage for all of the interior outlets including showers in Florida for around three years a piece apiece.
However, only time will tell if this one is made of plastic and if it is a more affordable build. The Harley is now in a wonderful place in the garage, which beats the hell out of a hot water tank that would be reheating the same water over and again for an eternity;)
Rheem Tankless Water Heater
Compared to typical tanked electric hot water heaters, Rheem tankless electric hot water heaters give continuous hot water on demand, making them a superior choice. Each Rheem tankless water heater has a small design that allows homeowners to choose where they want to place their tankless water heater without sacrificing efficiency. Tankless water heaters have the potential to save you money when compared to a traditional steel tank water heater. Within 24 hours, the water temperature in steel tanked heaters can drop by up to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Rheem’s electric tankless water heaters only turn on when you need hot water, saving you time and money.
- Its small footprint allows it to be used practically anyplace. Hot water that is available on demand, steady, and never-ending
- Low flow activation – as little as 0.3 GPM, which is the lowest in the industry. External temperature controls that allow for temperature adjustments in 1°F increments
- Immersion heating components made of durable copper with a brass top for greater durability and simplicity of replacement
How to Choose the Appropriate Amperage When choosing your tankless water heater model, look to the specifications and chart below to verify that you are getting the suitable unit for the amount of water used by your household: Typical Application Flows include the following:
| Application | Flow Rate (GPM) |
| Shower | 1.5 to 2.0 (Max 2.5) |
| Bath Tub Faucet | 4.0 |
| Bathroom Vanity Sink Faucet | 0.5 to 1.5 |
| Kitchen Sink Faucet | 1.0 to 2.0 |
| Washer | 1.0 to 3.0 |
Model Capacity (in GB):
| Model | GPM |
| RTEX-04 | up to 0.9 GPM |
| RTEX-06 | up to 1.5 GPM |
| RTEX-08 | up to 1.95 GPM |
| RTEX-11 | up to 2.6 GPM |
| RTEX-13 | up to 3.2 GPM |
| RTEX-18 | up to 4.4 GPM |
| RTEX-24 | up to 5.9 GPM |
| RTEX-27 | up to 6.6 GPM |
| RTEX-36 | up to 8.8 GPM |
How to Install an Electric Tankless Water Heater + Requirements
This page may contain affiliate links, so please keep that in mind. If you purchase a product or service after clicking on one of these links, we will get a commission at no additional cost to you. See our product review method in further detail, or read our FTC affiliate disclosure for more information. Purchasing an electric tankless water heater is merely the beginning of the process. Additionally, the item must be correctly put in your home. Unless you have excellent plumbing and electrical expertise, you should hire a qualified professional to complete this project for you (even required in some areas).
Do you want to know all about it?
Contents
- Installation requirements for electric tankless water heaters
- Power needs
- Water pressure requirements
- Permits
- And other considerations
- Power needs
- Water pressure requirements
- Permits
- And other requirements.
- Power needs
- Water pressure requirements
- Permits
- And so forth.
Electric Tankless Water Heater Installation Requirements
What are the prerequisites for putting up an electric tankless water heating system?
Electrical Service Requirements
The installation of a whole-house electric tankless water heater is not appropriate for every residence. This is due to the fact that the amp draw of such a system is far too high. Consider the following example: The Stiebel Eltron Tempra 36 Plus requires three separate dedicated 50A double pole breakers, in addition to a minimum 300A main service recommendation. The average home has a total capacity of 200A, to put this in context: That means you may need to replace your existing electrical service panel with larger cables and breakers, or you may need to install a fully new one, which will cost you a couple of thousand dollars in electrical labor.
The Stiebel Eltron Tempra 36 Plus is available for purchase on Amazon.
When it comes to amperage needs, a point-of-use (POU) electric tankless water heater should not pose a difficulty.
What is the best way to ascertain the current size of your home’s electrical system?
You should look for an electrical breaker box, which is normally located outside the house. Alternatively, you might check for a label in your electrical panel. You might also inquire with your electrician about this matter.
Water Pressure Requirements
The majority of electric tankless water heaters are capable of operating at pressures ranging from 30 to 150 psi. It is necessary to install a pressure reduction valve upstream of the water heater when the incoming water pressure is more than 150 psi.
Permits
As a homeowner, you are often permitted to complete the installation of your own water heater. For safety inspections, however, you will still need to get a permit in the majority of states. This is also true when it comes to replacing an aging water heater. It is possible that a plumbing inspector may visit your home and go over the installation to ensure that it was done correctly.
Where to Install
It is necessary to locate an adequate wall to which the water heater may be mounted as the first stage. When installing a whole-house water heater, it makes sense to locate it adjacent to the areas where the majority of hot water is consumed. Using this method, you will be able to obtain warm or hot water more quickly when you open a faucet (it doesn’t matter if you use a recirculation pump; further information is provided below). The main cold water line must be accessible at the same time, which means you must have access to it.
The good news is that electric water heaters do not require any additional ventilation.
Just bear in mind that most electric tankless water heaters must be mounted vertically, with the power and water supply connections facing downward, in order to function correctly.
Generally speaking, you should avoid places where there is a lot of crime.
- Your water heater would be splashed with water or other liquids on a regular basis
- Nonetheless, It is possible to experience freezing temperatures.
Additionally hazardous are high levels of wetness and humidity. If you do not follow these instructions, your product warranty will most likely be voided. The following are some of the tools and equipment that you may require to correctly install your new electric tankless water heater: You haven’t made a decision on a system yet? Check out our electric tankless water heaters reviews to pick the best one for your needs and budget! You can learn more about how to correctly size an electric tankless water heater by visiting this page.
Tools
- An adjustable wrench, a pipe cutter, a pencil, and a tape measure are also included. A drill and drill bits, a flat head screwdriver, a Phillips head screwdriver, needle nose pliers, a flat head screwdriver, and a Phillips head screwdriver are also included.
Supplies
- Screws and anchors (which should be included with the system)
- Piping, 3″ or 12″ in diameter (for example, copper pipe or stainless steel flex pipe)
- Valves for shutting down
- Temperature and pressure relief valve (T P)
- Pressure reduction valve (PRV)
- The following items are required: Teflon tape, sand paper, pipe insulation, double pole circuit breakers, wire and ground, recirculation pump with cross-over valve
It is possible that you will require additional soldering tools and materials.
How to Install an Electric Tankless Water Heater Yourself Step by Step
Before you begin, please keep in mind that this step-by-step installation instruction is simply intended to serve as an illustration. The procedures necessary to set up your individual water heater may differ from those listed above. You avoid this, be sure to read the complete product documentation. Furthermore, faulty installation will almost certainly void the warranty, may shorten the system’s lifespan, and may even result in significant physical damage or death if done incorrectly. So if you are unsure of what you are doing, do yourself a favor and get a certified electrician and plumber to complete the installation for you instead.
Additionally, some manufacturers require that their systems be installed by a licensed contractor in order for the guarantee to be valid; otherwise, the warranty would be void immediately.
Disclaimer: It is strongly suggested that this task be completed by a qualified individual. The installation must also be in compliance with all applicable national, state, and municipal electrical and plumbing regulations.
- First and foremost, switch off all circuit breakers that are implicated. Shut down the main water supply line
- It may be essential to drain and disconnect your old water heater. Remove any screws that hold the front cover of the device that you wish to install in place by unscrewing them. Remove the front cover, but be careful: the inside of the cover may be damaged. It is possible that you may need to remove one or more plugs before you can put it aside. The electric tankless water heater should be mounted to the wall. In the box should include screws and anchors, as well as instructions. It’s time to connect the cold (often on the right side of the pipe) and hot (typically on the left side of the pipe). When doing this, stainless steel flex pipe (34″ in diameter) in conjunction with Teflon tape is probably the most convenient option. You might also use copper or PEX tubing as an alternative (should be rated for high temperature applications). Not to mention the fact that certain water heaters are equipped with a filter screen at the cold water input that has to be cleaned on a regular basis. This is why it’s critical that the cold water connections may be disconnected with relative simplicity. If you need to cut into a pipe, make sure the edges are clean. Remember to clean the pipes before connecting them to the water heater, and that excessive heat might cause damage to the device during soldering
- The installation of a shut-off valve before and after the heater is suggested, as this will allow you to switch off the water supply to the unit for maintenance purposes without having to turn off the water supply to the rest of your home. By the way, this is a good opportunity to put in a pressure reduction valve on the cold water side, just in case the incoming water pressure exceeds a specific threshold value ( read more ). A temperature and pressure relief valve (T P) – which should be fitted on the hot water side – should not be necessary unless specifically required by local or state installation requirements
- Nonetheless,
- Remove any air from the pipes and water heater by opening many hot water faucets for a couple of minutes each time they are used. In the meanwhile, you may inspect all of the connections for leaks. Close all electrical outlets
- Attention: Refer to the wiring diagram in the handbook for further information! The following stage is to connect the electrical components, starting with the water heater on one side and ending with the electric panel on the opposite. For information on the proper wire size and circuit breaker numbersize, consult the manufacturer’s instructions. To connect small equipment to a single circuit, one set of 6/2 AWG wire and one ground protected by a 50A double pole breaker, for example, can be used in conjunction with a single set of 6/2 AWG wire. Larger units may necessitate the use of two or three different circuits, as well as heavier wire. Cut each wire set to the required length and stripping thickness, then pass it through the bottom holes in the water heater housing and securely attach it to the corresponding slots on the terminal block (see illustration) (check manufacturer instructions for optimal torque). A ground conductor must be connected between the unit’s grounding busbar and the circuit breaker panel for each circuit. Check all of the electrical connections one more time. Check to make sure that you did not mix up the different wire set combinations. Reinstall the front cover of the system. Make sure all of the circuit breakers are turned on
- Your electric tankless water heater should be operational at this point. It may be configured according to your tastes, for example, by altering the water temperature to the appropriate level. Open a hot water supply valve. Wait until the temperature has returned to normal. Check the temperature and make any necessary adjustments
- Done
Installation Video
Remove any air from the pipes and water heater by opening various hot water outlets for a couple of minutes. You may do this while checking all of the connections for leakage. Immediately turn off all electrical outlets. Attention: The wiring schematic in the instructions should be followed. The next stage is to connect the electrical components, starting with the water heater and progressing to the electric panel. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for the right wire size and circuit breaker numbersize.
- Devices with many circuits and maybe thicker wire are required for larger units.
- It is necessary to connect a ground conductor to the unit’s grounding busbar and to the circuit breaker panel for each circuit.
- Make certain that you did not mix up the various wire sets.
- Make sure all of the circuit breakers are activated; It is now necessary to switch on your electric tankless water heater.
- Check the temperature and make any necessary adjustments.
Expenses
You can find out more about the price of electric tankless water heaters by visiting this page.
Insulation on Hot Water Pipes
Children should be protected against burns by having low-hanging hot water pipes coming from the water heater properly insulated.
Installing Water Recirculation
When you open the kitchen faucet or another outlet, you will not receive quick hot water, even if you have a tankless water heater (also known as an instantaneous water heater). Due to the fact that hot water left in the pipes would ultimately cool down if it is not used, this is necessary. There is, fortunately, a solution to this problem: A recirculation pump is used to circulate water. A recirculation pump returns the cooled-down water to the heater, where it is heated once more. There are several advantages to doing so:
- When you open the kitchen faucet or another outlet, even with a tankless water heater (also known as an instantaneous water heater), you will not get instant hot water. This is due to the fact that hot water left in the pipes will ultimately cool down if it is not used immediately after being turned on. There is, fortunately, a remedy to this problem. Recirculation pumps are used to circulate water. Recirculation pumps return the cooled-off water to the heater, where it is heated once more by the heater. Several advantages arise from this:
When you open the kitchen faucet or another outlet, even with a tankless water heater, also known as an instantaneous water heater, you will not receive instant hot water. This is due to the fact that hot water left in the pipes will ultimately cool down if it is not used.
The good news is that there is a solution to this problem: A pump for recirculation. A recirculation pump returns the cooled-off water to the heater, where it is heated once more. There are several benefits to doing so:
- Your home already has a recirculation line (also known as a dedicated return line), or you choose to create one, which is a more expensive option. You should install a cross-over valve at the farthest fixture from your heater if at all possible. The hot water line is connected to the cold water line by this one-way check valve. It opens and closes in response to the temperature of the water. The cold water can then be returned to the heater through the cold water line in this manner.
After reading this, you might be thinking: “A recirculation pump in conjunction with an electric tankless water heater would result in a significant loss of energy as a result of the constant pumping and re-heating.” And you were correct, assuming you didn’t utilize any sort of intelligent control to begin with. It is possible to program the pump to function only at specific times of the day using smart controls. These controls may be as simple as a timer, a button, a motion sensor, or a remote.
- Available on Amazon.com, the Laing Recirculation Pump with TimerThermostat is a great addition to any home.
- A pump with insufficient flow would fail to activate the water heater if the pump was too tiny.
- We welcome any questions or comments you may have on how to install a tankless electric water heater in the comments section below.
- She is the head of content production and has completely immersed herself in the home water treatment sector, resulting in her becoming an expert in the field herself.
- Find out more about.
How to Install a Tankless Water Heater
Instructions from a professional on how to remove an old water heater tank, prepare the area for installation of a tankless water heater, and finally install the tankless water heater Because it does not store a huge amount of heated water, a tankless water heater, also known as an on-demand water heater, saves money over a traditional water heater. Essentially, it serves to give hot water on demand, so you won’t have to worry about the shower suddenly being chilly. The process of installing a gas tankless water heater consists of mounting the unit, connecting the gas and water lines, and installing a flue.
- Therefore, it may not function well in a family where two or three showers may be operating at the same time, as an example.
- It is both small and very efficient to use a tankless water heater.
- The following skills are required if you opt to conduct the task yourself: shutting off the water to your house (seeHow to Shut Off the Water to Fixtures) and cutting into and connecting new fittings and pipes to your supply pipes (if you have copper pipes, seeCuttingJoining Copper Pipe).
- There is also the need for a gas line and an electrical connection to a 120-volt circuit.
It is not necessary to vent an indoor electric tankless water heater to the outdoors because it is contained within the home. It does, however, require 240-volt electricity. It may either be hooked into a 240-volt outlet or directly attached to a power source such as a generator.
Tankless Water Heater Preparation
Remember to complete all essential preparations before disconnecting and removing your present water heater; you don’t want to be without hot water for a week or two while you wait for any plumbing, electrical, or vent work to be completed. If you are installing a new gas unit, you should determine whether you need to upgrade your gas meter. Because the unit consumes a considerable amount of BTUs, it is possible that your meter does not have the capacity to feed it in addition to the other gas-using appliances in your home.
- Request that the gas provider inspect your new unit to ensure that it is receiving the appropriate amount of manifold pressure for it.
- It is better to employ a professional plumber to install a new gas line if you need to replace an existing one.
- This will save you time and money.
- The fact that a tankless water heater generates a significant amount of condensation and pushes air out with a fan necessitates the installation of category II stainless-steel exhaust pipe with firmly sealed silicon joints, as seen in the second video below.
- A damper is an excellent addition for those who live in colder climates since it prevents chilly air from re-entering the home.
- Floor drains and utility sinks should be used to dispose of the excess liquid.
- In addition to gas, a gas unit requires 120-volt electrical power.
- You can watch this wonderful video from This Old House, which will provide you with an excellent explanation of the many stages involved in installing a tankless water heater.
- He makes the decision to remove and replace his malfunctioning water heater with a tankless water heater, and he guides us through the entire procedure with his hands on assistance.
- Codes demand that a subpanel (which may or may not be included with the unit) be erected next to the unit in order to comply.
Connect the wire to the subpanel and then from the subpanel to the unit, starting at the unit. It is essential that the electricity to the water heater’s circuit is turned off at all times while the work is being performed. +Find a Water Heater Installation Specialist in Your Area
Removing the Old Water Heater
In the majority of circumstances, a new tankless water heater will be installed in lieu of an existing storage water heater. In Ron Hazelton’s video above, he refers to our website for the directions, which are as follows: How to Flush or Drain a Water Heater (with Pictures). In order to remove the old water heater, turn off the valves on the two water lines (one for the input and one for the output) that lead into the existing water heater and disconnect them. To remove and detach the water heater’s lines from the water heater, use channel-type pliers or a pipe wrench.
- Drain the tank by opening the drain valve located at the bottom.
- Don Vandervort writes for HomeTips.
- A segment or two of vent pipe should be disconnected and removed.
- If you decide to handle it yourself, cut off the circuit at the service panel and check to be that the power has been turned off completely.
- If you require assistance with this project, contact a local water heater professional.
Installing a Tankless Water Heater
Tankless units can be fitted flush against the wall (against the drywall or plaster), or they can be inserted into the wall between the studs. Using a stud finder, identify the studs in the wall where you want to install the unit, and then cut a hole between each of them. Attach the item to the wall in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. Water supply pipes should be routed to the water heater. Make certain that the pipe from the water utility is linked to the inlet and that the pipe flowing to the home is connected to the outlet before starting the project.
- You might also want to consider installing a pressure-relief valve.
- The water valves should be opened, but not those for the power or gas.
- Close the water valves and turn off the water.
- Replace the filter, turn on the water valves, turn on the electrical power, and turn on the gas valves if necessary.
Finally, test the equipment to ensure that it is in proper functioning condition. Resource Highlighted: Find a Pre-Screened Water Heater Pro in Your AreaCall today for free estimates from pre-screened water heater professionals in your area: 1-866-342-3263
Tankless Water Heater Installation in San Diego
When it comes to installing a tankless hot water heater in San Diego, we understand that services must be completed as fast, accurately, and effectively as possible. After all, who wants to take a shower in ice cold water or wash their hands in ice cold water, right? With a tankless water heater, you’ll get on-demand hot water, but that’s not the only advantage you’ll get from upgrading from your old tank water heater. Another advantage of a tankless water heater is that it takes up less space and costs less to operate than a traditional tank water heater, while also increasing energy efficiency by up to 40%.
For the best installation of your tankless water heater unit, the specialists at Verday are regularly training in the classroom and on the job site to guarantee that they are up to speed on the latest innovations, technologies, and installation procedures.
We also have a lot of experience with Rheem tankless water heater installation.
Rheem Tankless Water Heater User Guide
Temperatures up to 120oF can be controlled using a remote control: Cooking thermometers should be used to check the current temperature at various sinks and faucets. The remote is factory set to 100oF. To modify the temperature higher than 120oF up to 140oF, refer to the dip switch settings in your individual product handbook, which may be found in the product manual for your specific product. Some of the information on this page will apply to certain models. Heavy-duty variants have the ability to be changed up to 180 degrees Fahrenheit.
If the temperature rise becomes too great for the incoming water temperature, the venting capacity, the air supply or gas supply, or a combination of these variables, the tankless system will shut down.
- Remove the remote control from the wall. Gas and water shutdown valves should be turned off. Take off the front cover
- DIP Switch4 is positioned at the upper left-hand side of the printed circuit board. Change the “ON” setting on DIP Switch4 to the “OFF” position. DO NOT make any further changes to the DIP Switches. The LED on the printed circuit board is flashing. A flashing light appears on the display of the Main Remote Control at the same moment. Press and hold the “SW1″button on the left-hand side of the PCB for more than 1 second to activate the switch. The LED on the printed circuit board (PCB) begins to illuminate continually. At the same time, the Main Remote Control’s display is continually illuminated
- Change the “ON” setting on DIP Switch4 back to the “OFF” state. DO NOT make any further changes to the DIP Switches. The LED on the PCB will turn off after a short period of time. Additionally, the Main Remote Control’s display will be turned off at the same time. Attach the unit’s front cover to the unit. Activate the remote control, as well as the gas and water shutdown valves Check the water heater’s functioning and performance to confirm that it is safe to use
You want 140 degrees from a tankless system? In addition, the entering water temperature is 50o. Because the temperature rise is 140o minus 50o = 90o, the number of gallons per minute (GPM) will decrease.
Flow rates
Flow rates are determined by the temperature of the incoming water as well as the capacity of the tankless unit. It is assumed that the entering water temperature is 65 degrees Celsius, which is the normal year-round temperature in the Southern United States. The average temperature in mid-Illinois year-round is around 54 degrees. The temperature distribution in the chart below is biased toward warmer locations. To obtain a comparative reading, place the cooking thermometer under the cold water faucet.
- The average shower consumes 2.5 gallons per minute, whereas the average faucet uses 2 gallons per minute. It is found that when shower water is hot, more cold water is consumed
Every shower consumes 2.5 gallons per minute, and every faucet uses 2 gallons per minute; this is the average. As shower water becomes hotter, more cold water is required;
From typical Rheem manual:
- If you have any queries regarding your new water heater, or if it needs to be adjusted, repaired, or maintained on a regular basis, it is recommended that you call the installation, plumbing contractor, or service agency that was previously agreed upon. The telephone directory, business listings, or local utility listings might be used to locate appropriate service help if the firm has relocated or is unavailable. You should next contact the Manufacturer’s National Service Department at the following location if your problem has not been resolved to your total satisfaction: Phone: 1-800-432-8373
- 2600 Gunter Park DriveMontgomery, Alabama 36109-1413
It is necessary to provide the following information to the manufacturer when contacting them:
- The rating plate, which is affixed to the front panel of the water heater, displays the model and serial number of the water heater. The actual location of the water heater as well as the address where it is placed
- In addition, the name and location of any service organization that conducted work on your water heater should be included. The date of the initial installation, as well as the dates of any servicing work completed Details of the situation, as accurately as you can describe it
- A list of the persons who have been contacted about your situation, along with their contact information and contact dates
If the temperature of your tankless water heater is not what it used to be, de-lime your tankless water heater. Look on YouTube for “Delime tankless” to learn how to do it yourself. Rheem-De-lime-tankless Resources for troubleshooting can be found at: User Guide for Tankless Water Heaters – Click Here to Download The Rheem Tankless Water Heater User Guide is available for download.