How to Remove the Impeller of a Trash Pump
Have you ever fantasized about what you might do if you had more room in your garage or home? Water heaters are typically two feet broad and five feet tall. A tankless water heater, on the other hand, is only around 16 inches wide, 26 inches long, and 6 inches deep, depending on the model. It’s a whole lot smaller than a tank! Goodbye, huge tank, and hello, brand-new laundry area!
Step 1: Read the Manufacturer’s Instructions
For the removal of the impeller, refer to the user’s handbook for specific instructions on how to proceed. To fully comprehend the technique, it is necessary to follow it step by step as illustrated by the diagrams and part numbers. If you are ever in question, always consult it.
Step 2: Disconnecting the Spark Plug
Unplug the connection to the spark plug in order to prevent the engine from starting by mistake.
Step 3: Opening the Casing
Remove the cap screws from the pump’s cap to reveal the pump’s inside. Take the impeller casing out of the way. After that, remove the casing seal from the adapter by pulling it out.
Step 4: Removing Volute
Using a wrench, unscrew the screws that hold the volute in place. Remove the volute from its adaptor by pulling it out. This funnel is wrapped around the impeller and its cross-sectional area rises as it gets closer to the discharge port, thereby forming a volute. It assists in increasing the pressure of the flowing liquid by slowing it down.
Step 5: Removing the Impeller
Remove the impeller from the engine shaft of the pump by unscrewing it. Remove it by rotating it counterclockwise. You can softly tap the impeller on the shaft with a rubber mallet to dislodge it from its position on the shaft. Remove the nut that secures the spring and seal assembly to the engine shaft and set the spring and seal assembly aside. Remove the spring and slide the seal assembly out of the way to remove it. Remove the shims, as well. Replace any old or broken components with new ones and reassemble the pump according to the directions in the user’s handbook to ensure proper operation.
Tricks & Tips to Extract and Remove an Impeller
This is something that should and must be done with ALL impellers when they are being removed from the engine. Once the cover plate has been removed, you must generously spray WD-40 (or a similar product) within the housing and into the spline or keyshaft region before BUMPING the engine to for the WD-40 to work. Then spray it one more time and rev the engine up a little further. The impeller has been removed TWO times and is now ready to be replaced. It will “break” the dry bond that always appears to form between the rubber and the housing, as well as release the spline, once you have completed this procedure (or key).
When installing a new impeller, toss off all of the nonsense you’ve heard about lubrication — Use any ordinary white lithium grease (or a similar oil) and everyone’s life will become much easier.
Be messy with it, cover the whole inside of the engine, including the shaft and impeller, and I personally promise that it will not harm your impeller if you plan to finish the process and test the engine within a few days or so.
All of the nonsense regarding which way the vanes must turn is likewise exactly that — complete and total nonsense.
It makes absolutely no difference since the blades will flip as needed the split second the engine starts up. However, following each impeller replacement, it is necessary to do a test and check for leaks, among other things. Wishing you a successful fishing trip. Tony
Changing A Raw Water Pump Impeller
Changing an impeller is not a difficult chore, and it is one that every boater should consider adding to their arsenal of do-it-yourself maintenance techniques. It is common for many engines to have an impeller change that takes less than 20 minutes, even if you are a bit sluggish. The physical access to the pump is the most difficult component of the job to do. Raw water impellers are a common wear item; nevertheless, they do not always operate according to a set schedule of hours or days. The simplest of errors, such as forgetting to open the engine’s raw water intake, or the presence of a partial weed plug in the intake, may cause an impeller to fail in a matter of minutes.
- If they are allowed to run hot for an extended period of time, they may lose a blade or drop a piece that may become lodged in a hose, elbow, or the heat exchanger.
- It is critical to locate and replace all of the missing impeller parts in order to avoid further damage or overheating concerns.
- Some people believe this is excessive, and you’ll have to determine for yourself what kind of maintenance routine you want to follow.
- In our Westerbeke, I pay $16.00 for the impeller to be replaced, and the process takes around 8-10 minutes.
- In comparison to the few minutes and few boat bucks necessary for this easy maintenance, an overheated engine or a thrown blade can cost many, many times more in terms of both time and money.
In the spring, or if you run the engine dry for more than 30 to 45 seconds, or when the flow is restricted due to an obstruction in the strainer or intake system, you should have a trouble-free impeller that will never throw a blade or cause flow to be restricted owing to a worn impeller again.
New Impeller Kit
This is the impeller kit that I’m now using in my engine. It comes with gaskets, installation instructions, and impeller lube, which is nothing more than glycerin in its purest form. If you look closely, you will note that the impeller box does not mention Westerbeke on it. On this specific engine, Westerbeke makes use of a Johnson pump, and Hamilton Marine carries the precise impeller item that is required. They could be useful for your engine as well. The impeller on the left is a fresh new replacement, whereas the impeller on the right was taken from the engine last autumn after it was winterized.
Yes, I could get this impeller via Westerbeke, but it would cost about $38.00 against $16.00 at Hamilton Marine, despite the fact that they are identical down to the engraved Johnson component number on the impeller itself.
I usually recommend that you have at least one entirely new replacement impeller on board at all times, as well as a minimum of two gaskets on hand. Sometimes you’ll need to inspect the impeller, but it may not be necessary to replace it, necessitating the use of an additional gasket or o-ring.
Removing The Screws
As previously said, this job is quite simple. It is possible to change an impeller if you are capable of changing oil, air filters, or cleaning a blender after creating frozen chick drinks in a blender. Loosen and remove the screws, starting with Step 1. If they are frozen or corroded, use some PB Blaster to defrost them, but be extremely cautious not to blast them all over the place. PB Blaster like eating pump seals, engine seals, and even engine gaskets for breakfast, so please keep that in mind.
Purchase a few extra face plate screws to keep on hand in case one of them happens to fall into the bilge.
Pry The Plate Off
Step 2: Remove the cover plate by prying it off. This is something I do with a knife blade and it works well. There are several methods for removing the plate, but whichever method you use, make sure it does not damage the gasket’s mating surfaces in the process. Before you begin, be sure you CLOSE THE ENGINE INTAKE SEACOCK before pulling off the plate or attempting to remove the impeller. This is critical. You shouldn’t be surprised if water starts to drain after you remove the cover plate. There will be some water left in the HX and hoses after this.
Check For Wear
Using your fingers, gently pry the cover plate away from the body. The blade of a knife works quite well for this. Many methods exist for removing the plate, but whichever method you use, be sure it does not damage the gasket’s mounting surfaces or the plate itself. Before you begin, be sure you CLOSE THE ENGINE INTAKE SEACOCK before pulling the plate off or attempting to replace the impeller. Never be concerned if water pours out of the cover plate as soon as you take it off. In the HX and hoses, there will be some water left.
Clean The Cover Plate
Before reusing the cover plate, it should be thoroughly cleaned and the gasket surface smoothed off. I just use Scotch-Brite pads to accomplish this. Make certain that all remnants of the prior gasket are removed from both the pump body face and the mating face of the cover plates. Keeping up with your cleaning tasks can help to reduce the likelihood of a gasket leak occurring.
Ready To Re-Install
It is necessary to clean and smooth the gasket surface of the cover plate before it can be used again. Simple Scotch-Brite pads are all that’s required for this job. Remember to thoroughly clean the pump body face as well as the cover plate mating surface to ensure that no traces of the prior gasket are left. The likelihood of a gasket leak is reduced if you are meticulous in your cleaning tasks.
The Old Impeller
The fact that I changed this impeller only a couple of months ago in April and that it is now late July indicates that you have been reading and paying attention to what I have been writing. So what is it about this impeller that has already broken and damaged it? That is a straightforward response. On a spring tide day, we were cruising back in complete silence with no breeze. It is a lovely aspect of spring tides in Maine that they reach out far up onto the shoreline and draw every last piece of seaweed and dumped debris back off the beach and back into the water.
- Water temperature was closely monitored, and it only rose to around 8-10 degrees over usual when we arrived to the mooring.
- It was undoubtedly reducing flow, but it had not been completely depleted; it had just been pumping less volume.
- Every time I find myself in a scenario like this, when the flow was restricted, I make it a point to examine the impeller.
- Normally, I would have stopped the boat and cleaned the strainer, but the temperature was not even at 190 degrees, when it should have been at 180, and we had a hungry infant on board, so I continued to press forward.
- If it’s in good shape, the only thing you’ll have to pay is a $.88 cent gasket.
- Probably another 5-10 hours before this one started tossing chunks at me, if I’m being honest with myself.
- Despite the fact that I believe the concept is excellent, I am a little wary after having had two previous attempts fail.
In addition, I have observed similar Globe impeller failures on clients’ boats as well as my own. The use of Globe impellers may be an alternative, but I am aware of the failures I have witnessed and the fact that they are nearly two to three times the cost of my standard Johnson impeller.
Remove The Impeller
Whilst the basic principle of water pumps is the same across all manufacturers, there may be differences in the way the impeller is mounted on or linked to the shaft. This pump has a slotted shaft, and the impeller is attached to the shaft by a screw that fits into the groove. I just use my needle nose Vise Grip pliers to remove it from the situation. It just jumps out at you, and it couldn’t be any more straightforward. Some pumps are held together using set screws or c-clips. A set of c-clip pliers will be required for impellers that have retaining rings that are secured by c-clips.
Most engine and pump manufacturers include on-line parts guides that include an exploded picture of the engine or pump and allow you to have a peek inside the engine or pump before you open it up.
Check The Pump Body
Check the pump body for wear and debris, and replace the pump if necessary. Run your finger around the interior of the container to feel for grooves or rough patches, and then take a close look at it from all angles. Once you have completed this, add some impeller lube, also known as glycerin, to your finger and lubricate the interior surfaces of the pump body, including the rear wall, which is also a sealing surface for the impeller. Before final assembly or installation of the impeller, lubricate the back of the pump and the cover plate with glycerin to prevent sticking or corrosion.
The impeller material and some petroleum greases are incompatible with each other, and greases have a tendency to get sticky in the internals.
At any drug shop, it will cost you around $3.00 for a lifetime supply.
New Impeller
Check the pump body for wear and debris, and replace the pump body if necessary. To check for grooves or rough patches on the interior, run your finger around the outside of the container. Also take a thorough look inside. Apply some impeller lube, also known as glycerin, to your finger and lubricate the inside surfaces of the pump body, paying particular attention to the rear wall because it is also a sealing surface for the impeller. Before final assembly or insertion of the impeller, lubricate the back of the pump and the cover plate with glycerin to prevent corrosion.
The impeller material and some petroleum greases are incompatible with one other, and greases have a tendency to get sticky within the impeller.
As a lubricant, stick to glycerin. Any drug shop will sell you a lifetime supply for roughly $3.00. It is available online as well. It serves as a lubricant for the start-up process and subsequently is removed.
Chose The Right Gasket
If you purchase an OEM impeller straight from Yanmar, Westerbeke, or Universal, to mention a few manufacturers, the impeller will almost always come with the appropriate gasket. Select the proper gasket for your impeller if it comes with more than one, by comparing it to the cover plate or o-ring groove on the cover plate.
Prep The Gasket
OEM impellers purchased directly from Yanmar, Westerbeke, or Universal, to mention a few manufacturers, are often supplied with the appropriate gasket. Select the right gasket for your impeller if it comes with more than one, by comparing it to the cover plate or o-ring groove on your cover plate.
Check Your Hoses
When you’re in the engine compartment, make a habit of checking your hoses physically and visually every time you’re there. This is a wire-reinforced hose that was on the verge of breaking down completely. Undoubtedly the most difficult to replace, and the only way I could tell it was damaged was by feeling its resistance. Corrosion and rotting of internal reinforcing wire through the jacket are evident by the white residue and bulges, which indicate significant corrosion and rotting.
All Done
As you can see, replacing an impeller is fairly simple! Best of luck and safe boating!
Water Pump Impeller
As a matter of routine maintenance, I replace the impellers in the water pumps on all of my boats every two years as a precaution. What is the point of changing them so frequently? During winter layup, my yachts are docked for 4-5 months. During this lengthy period without rotating the impeller, the blades of the pump, which have been bent by the cam, acquire a permanent set of characteristics. Four of the impeller’s twelve blades have been distorted to the point that they no longer make contact with the housing, as shown in the image below.
- An impeller that has been idle for a number of seasons will have significantly reduced performance, resulting in a lower overall efficiency of the pump.
- It is a Johnson F75E-9 waterpump that is utilized on the Yanmar 370.
- The boat is equipped with a single Yanmar 370, which makes getting to the pump a piece of cake.
- With the engine running and the top off, I hoped that by jogging it and tugging on the impeller, I might be able to coax it out.
- Rather than risk damaging anything or myself, I began investigating the logistics of relocating the pump to a work table and found them to be rather complex.
- Remove the input hose from the pump and set it aside for now.
- There is just one screw in the flange to hold it in place, and it is an O-ring sealed fitting.
If you break the paint seal, the pump will slide straight out of the way.
A significant set is developed in the impeller throughout the course of the winter, particularly in the area of the cam.
I used a screwdriver to pry on the impeller at the low pressure side of the cam area, being careful not to pry against the thin wall at the O-ring groove.
Alternatively, if you have damaged the cam, you can replace it by unscrewing the screw from the side of the housing.
As soon as I’ve finished removing the impeller and cleaning the housing with Quick Silver 2-4-C lube (although any marine grease should work), I gently insert the impeller into the housing while rotating the housing counter-clockwise.
You’re ready to reinstall the pump once you grease up the O-ring seal and replace the lid. Cavitation close to the low pressure side of the cam may be seen on the inside of the lid, which gives you an indication of how hard the pump will draw when you look inside.
Impeller Replacement 101
A essential component of your engine’s cooling system, the impeller is a critical component of the cooling system. A spare impeller on board is a good idea in case of an unexpected failure of the primary one. Raw water pumps of the flexible impeller type are commonly seen in inboard and sterndrive engines. Flexible impeller pumps are commonly found in a variety of applications, including shower drain sump pumps, certain bilge pumps, wakeboard ballast pump systems, oil changing systems, and many others.
Why Impeller Pumps Fail
Pumps with flexible impellers perform best when they are used on a regular basis. If your pump is electrically operated and has been sitting for months with the impeller in one position and the blades on one side bent, it may “take a set” and trip a circuit breaker when it is turned on. When the pump is turned on, it is possible that the impeller will become stuck to the housing and fall apart. Impellers are harmed by debris that is sucked into the machine, by chemicals, and, most importantly, by running out of fuel.
Of course, each time you start the engine, you should inspect the wet exhaust on your transom to ensure that the correct flow of cooling water is being provided.
Correctly built impellers can endure for several years, but you should adhere to a preventative maintenance routine rather than relying on emergency repairs when possible.
Because the impeller is one of the most important components of your engine’s cooling system, you should always have a spare on board.
Selecting the Right Impeller
Our inventory includes impellers from a variety of brands, including Johnson Pump, Mercury Marine, Sierra, and Jabsco, among others. There are a variety of methods for determining the West Marine model number for a new Jabsco impeller, including the following:
- Manufacturers such as Johnson Pump, Mercury Marine, Sierra and Jabsco are among those who supply us with impellers for our customers. When looking for a new Jabsco impeller, there are numerous methods to use to obtain the West Marine model number.
Neoprene, Nitrile or Polyurethane
Use neoprene impellers for engine cooling as well as for fresh and salt water transfer chores, if possible. Neoprene is only suited for use in pumps when only trace quantities of oil or diesel fuel are present, such as in a car wash. Nitrile impellers should be used for bilge pumping and transfer responsibilities when the water is significantly polluted, such as when it is contaminated by oil or fuel. To transport diesel fuel, a sliding vane pump such as the Jabsco Vane Puppy or the Groco Flo-Master should be utilized.
This application makes use of impellers made of polyurethane.
Replacing Impellers in Raw Water Pumps
The process of replacement is pretty straightforward. In order to use a raw water pump, you must first shut the water intake through the hull valve. After that, unscrew the screws holding the pump’s end cover in place and remove the cover and gasket. Remove the old impeller by grasping the impeller’s hub with channel lock or needle-nose pliers and pulling it out. Use an Impeller Puller Tool for the quickest and most straightforward removal (or in cases when the other tools are ineffective). It is not recommended to use a screwdriver to lever it out, since this may score the soft bronze of the pump body, resulting in leaks and other problems.
- When the impeller has been removed, it should be thoroughly examined.
- By bending each vane, you can make sure it’s working properly.
- Small bits of rubber can migrate into the heat exchanger or the engine, causing overheated damage and premature failure.
- Condensing the impeller’s vanes using a hefty rubber band or a loop of light line, then inserting and pulling the loop out with your pliers is the best method.
- Your pump may require further maintenance, particularly if the seals, bearings, wear plates, or clutch are worn out or damaged.
As a general reference book, we strongly suggest this one. If your pump has reached the end of its useful life, most of the “classic” pumps from Jabsco, Sherwood, and Johnson Pump are still available for purchase.
How To Replace a Pool Pump Impeller
As said previously, pool pumps are not inexpensive; thus, if yours stops working correctly, you should learn how it works and assess whether you can fix the problem yourself to save money on the repair bill. This is true in the case of the impeller. If it breaks, you will be able to replace it yourself. All you need to know is how to go about it.
What Does a Pool Pump Impeller Do?
The impeller is the most important component of the pump, as well as its only moving component. It is responsible for pulling the water through the pump in order to circulate it, thus if it is not present, your pump is rendered ineffective. Older pool pumps may include impellers with a semi-open face design. Today’s pumps, on the other hand, feature closed-face impellers, which make them significantly more efficient but also a little more difficult to replace. One of the most prevalent problems with impellers is debris in the pump, which, depending on the kind of material, can cause the impeller to fracture or shatter.
If you only need to clean it, please see my post on cleaning your pool pump impeller for more information.
Step 1: Cut the Power
As the most important component of a pump and its only moving component, the impeller must perform flawlessly. The fact that it is necessary to pull water through the pump in order to circulate it means that your pump would be ineffective without it. Semi-open-face impellers are common in older pool pumps. The closed-face impellers seen in today’s pumps make them significantly more efficient, but they also make them slightly more difficult to replace. Impeller difficulties are frequently caused by debris in the pump, which can cause the impeller to fracture or shatter depending on the type of material present.
If all you need to do is clean it, check out my post on cleaning your pool pump impeller for more information.
Step 2: Open the Relief Valve
After you’ve unplugged the pump, open the relief valve to release all of the pressure that has built up inside it. To begin with, it will spray heavily, so be prepared and avoid getting water in your face. Even after the water has stopped spraying, wait until the gauge shows 0 psi before doing anything else.
Step 3: Remove Fasteners
Remove the nuts and washers that secure the motor assembly to its housing, and make a note of the ones you remove and where you put them back in. Organize them in a safe place where you won’t lose track of them, such as a compact container or snack baggie. When it comes time to reassemble the pump, you will have all of the necessary fasteners on hand.
Step 4: Remove the Housing
Gently pry the motor assembly away of the housing and lay the housing aside so that it is no longer in your way.
Step 5: Check and Remove the Diffuser and Gasket
The diffuser and gasket for the pump are positioned at the very end of the assembly. Remove it and thoroughly inspect both parts before putting them aside for later use (This is an excellent time to check them over and see if they need replacing as well).
Please keep in mind that the diffuser might become caught in the housing at times. If it isn’t at the end of the motor assembly, look inside the housing for a replacement. Take it out of the box and inspect it well.
Step 6: Secure the Motor Shaft and Remove the Impeller
You must detach the impeller from the motor shaft, which means you must have access to the shaft in order to keep it in place while you work on it.
Remove the Cover and Capacitor
You must remove the impeller from the motor shaft, which means you must have access to the shaft in order to keep it in place while you work on the impeller.
Holding the Shaft and Removing the Impeller
You must detach the impeller from the motor shaft, which means you must have access to the shaft in order to keep it in place while you work on the motor.
Step 7: Remove the Seal on the Impeller
The impeller is equipped with a seal. The seal plate at the end of the motor shaft contains half of the seal, while the other half is located at the end of the impeller. Removing the portion that is attached to the impeller requires great attention to the way it is placed.
Step 8: Put The Seal On the New Impeller
In most cases, you may reuse the old seal on the new impeller unless you have a specific need to replace it (you should probably do this anyway because using the seal that comes with the new impeller can cause headaches due to a poor fit). As a result, it’s critical that you pay close attention to how it sat on the old impeller. It must be installed on the new impeller in the same orientation as the old one in order for it to correctly return to the motor shaft. It is important not to touch the bearing on the top of the seal since the oils from your skin might cause it to corrode.
Step 9: Reassemble Your Pump
In most cases, you may reuse the old seal on the new impeller unless you have a specific reason to do so (you should probably do this anyway because using the seal that comes with the new impeller can cause headaches due to a poor fit). The way it sat on the old impeller is critical, which is why you must pay close attention. For it to correctly return to the motor shaft, it must be placed on the new impeller with the same orientation as the old one. Make sure you don’t come into contact with the bearing on the top of the seal since oils from your skin might cause it to corrode.
Step 10: Prime the Pump
Taking off the strainer’s cover and filling the sieve with water is simple. Then replace the lid on the jar.
Step 11: Plug the Pump Back In
Turn on and reconnect the pool pump by plugging it back in. If you switch off the electricity by first turning off the circuit breaker, make sure you flip the circuit breaker back on as well. Once the pump is going, wait until the water begins to shoot out of the relief valve before closing it. Congratulations! You’ve just completed a simple impeller replacement on your pool pump, saving yourself a significant amount of money over purchasing a new pump. Do you have any questions regarding changing your impeller?
Troubleshooters.com provided the image used in this post.
Impeller nut removal – KDXRIDER.NET
FWRMember Posts:7 Posted at 7:10 p.m. 15th of September, 2019 Country:USA
Impeller nut removal
While attempting to remove my impeller nut in order to replace the seals in my water pump, the impeller continues to spin even while the transmission is locked. Is this an indication that anything is wrong with my water pump?
What is the best way to remove this nut from the impeller? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. kdxsullySupporting Member has posted 739 times. Posted at 8:28 a.m. 21st of April, 2019 Country: The United States of America North Cackalack is the location.
Re: Impeller nut removal
A 10mm wrench near the gear should be able to keep the impeller in place with two flat locations on the impeller, according to Postbykdxsully. Turtles are among my favorite animals. FWRMember Posts:7 Posted at 7:10 p.m. 15th of September, 2019 Country:USA
Re: Impeller nut removal
PostbyFWR» Is this anything that would be found within the right side case? My understanding is that it is merely a loop all the way down, but I’ll double-check. I’ll be able to publish images in a little while. Also, this is a 2002 kdx220rericrGold MemberPosts:242 Posted at 6:57 p.m. The 6th of November, 2017 Country:USA Western Washington State is the location.
Re: Impeller nut removal
Postbyericr» The torque applied to that nut is merely 87 pounds per square inch. The inner clutch cover should be removed while the nut is still in place to allow the gear on the shaft to continue to be engaged in the normal course of events. It’s likely that something is amiss if your impeller is spinning even with the cover on and the gearbox in gear. My first suggestion would be to heat the nut with a torch, then use a shop towel to hold the impeller in place while snapping the screw loose.
bufftesterPlatinum Member has made 3194 posts.
Date: October 31, 2012Country: United States of America University Place, Washington is the location of this event.
Re: Impeller nut removal
Postbybufftester» If the impeller is spinning while the side cover is still attached to the bike, you have more serious problems on your hands. As previously said, the torque is only “supposed” to be 87 in/lbs, therefore if the impeller is spinning, you may use a strap wrench to keep it in place while you remove the nut from the nut. I would not recommend trying to fit a screwdriver or other anything between the fins; you might damage them if you do. In addition, make certain that you are not in neutral while attempting to remove the nutFWRMember Posts:7 Joined at 7:10 p.m.
Re: Impeller nut removal
PostbyFWR» What would be the most serious concerns if it had the ability to spin? Anything to keep an eye out for would be helpful since I should be working on it this weekend. bufftester Platinum Member Posts:3194 Posted at 6:03 p.m. Date: October 31, 2012Country: United States of America University Place, Washington is the location of this event.
Re: Impeller nut removal
Postbybufftester» The water pump, on the other hand, is directly gear driven from the crankshaft. If your impeller continues to spin even while the crank does not, it is probable that the impeller shaft has been damaged and has to be replaced. If you can get it open and take some images, we should be able to obtain a better understanding of what is going on. FWRMember Posts:7 Posted at 7:10 p.m. Country: United States of America Date: September 15, 2019
Re: Impeller nut removal
PostbyFWR» It is true that my postings are few and far between, but I am back and determined to eradicate this nasty nut from my life. My first concern is if I should still have oil in the bike before attempting this. It had been drained and was performing at its peak until the impeller failed. Then I went on to the impeller, without bothering to replace the oil in the hopes that that was the source of the problem. I can re-oil the engine and see if it makes a difference. At this point, I’ve completely disassembled the bike, and this is the last element that has to be repaired before I can reassemble everything.
bufftesterPlatinum Member has made 3194 posts. Posted at 6:03 p.m. Date: October 31, 2012Country: United States of America University Place, Washington is the location of this event.
Re: Impeller nut removal
Postbybufftester» As long as you have the correct inner clutch cover removed, you may simply keep the water pump drive gear in place while you unscrew the impeller nut. The water pump is powered by a gear right off the crankshaft; oil has absolutely no influence on it at all. FWRMember Posts:7 Posted at 7:10 p.m. Country: United States of America Date: September 15, 2019
Re: Impeller nut removal
PostbyFWR»Yeah, I’ve got the right sid off, I was just afraid about marring the impeller shaft when removing it. Will give it a shot. Thank you. platinum memberbufftesterPlatinum Member Posts:3194 Posted at 6:03 p.m. Date: October 31, 2012Country: United States of America University Place, Washington is the location of this event.
Re: Impeller nut removal
Postbybufftester»Because the impeller and seal are still in place, you will not be able to damage the portion of the shaft that passes through the mechanical seal. Simply wrapping a rope around the pump drive gear should be sufficient to dislodge the impeller nut from its mounting.
How To Replace A Pool Pump Impeller
Product Specialist at InyoPools, Inc. Dennis R. Posted on: February 27, 2017 wayneb56 is a member of the community. The following was the response from the Century Motors representative. “When answering a question like this, you really need to know the complete story.” Despite the fact that we do not manufacture the motor, I think it is a three-phase induction motor. The amount of torque produced will vary based on the speed picked. Even at the slowest possible speed setting and with an appropriate operating voltage, the torque will be more than sufficient to overcome seal drag.
- I don’t believe anybody would advocate doing this operation due to the possibility of hand harm.
- Dennis R.
- I don’t believe you could stop a motor from spinning by just holding the impeller in your hand.
- But I’m not sure what I’m talking about.
- I’ll get in touch with you as soon as he answers.
- The pump sounded like it wasn’t generating as much power as it should have been (Pentair Superflo VS).
- Pump was separated and the impeller bolt was replaced.
I have a question.
Dennis R.
First, double-check that you purchased the correct new shaft seal for your vehicle.
Also, make sure that the shaft seal is not fitted upside down by following the instructions in step 15 of this article.
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, Inc.
is an American businessman and philanthropist.
It appears that the old metal collar did not come off with the old shaft seal when the old shaft seal was removed.
Reply danny Posted:4/28/2016 For a Hayward pump with model number SP 2810X15, I purchased and got a Hayward 1 1/2 hp motor with a shaft seal from Hayward.
The seal is different in appearance from the one I removed.
The indents (which, I assume, prevent the seal from rotating) are located up towards the ceramic seal, and it appears that I would have to press the seal past the lower metal in order to get to the indents; is this correct?
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, Inc.
is an American businessman and philanthropist.
If the nick is significant, I would recommend that the impeller be replaced to ensure that it is sound and balanced.
Check the pump body for any fractures that may exist.
Check the top of the basket chamber to ensure that it has not fractured as a result of overtightening the screws.
One property owner tried packing plumber’s putty around each connection to see if it would stop a leak.
Then I took off the putty in a sequential manner to identify which connection was causing the air to build up in the system.
Replacement of the lid and gasket was completed with the purchase of new parts.
Is it possible that this is the source of the problem?
ReplyIyopools Posted:4/6/2015 impeller (noun) – I’m not sure why the impeller is able to rotate in both directions when you have the shaft in your hand and are not allowing it to rotate.
You shouldn’t be able to move the shaft while you hold the other end of it in your hands.
Reply Anonymous Posted:4/5/2015 Your website has provided me with a great deal of information.
So here’s the crux of the matter.
I’ve tried holding the rear screw and twisting it clockwise, but it doesn’t work.
Thoughts?
Dennis R.
Posted:12/21/2014 Pickles are a type of pickle.
If you give us a call, we will arrange for you to meet with a technician from the pump manufacturer.
Thank you very much for the excellent information and video you provided.
I have an older pump that is entirely made of metal (brass, I believe?
However, a pool store technician informed me that the pump and impeller were in excellent condition and did not require replacement, so I decided to replace the motor with a keyed shaft CK1102, which I purchased recently.
From the shaft side of the impeller, there is a metal ring/piece that I can get to with a deep well socket and a hammer, and the only way I can see to get it out is to push it out with the deep well socket and hammer.
Thanks!
Dennis R.
Posted:8/11/2014 ‘Susan’ is a fictional character created by author Susan – If your diffuser is in good condition, you will just need to purchase the diffuser gasket, also known as theBulkhead O-ring for this pump, and you will be done.
These comprise the O-rings for theStrainer Cover, the O-rings for theHousing, and the Shaft Seal.
I’m not sure which diffuser gasket to order, so I’m asking for help.
I’m looking at component number 5110-82 right now.
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, Inc.
is an American businessman and philanthropist.
In the opinion of the pump manufacturers, if the oil on your fingertips comes into contact with the ceramic bearing surfaces of the shaft seal, it will cause the surfaces to burn and deteriorate while the pump is operating.
In addition, you may want to indicate what sort of lubricant should be used on particular gasket (silicon, I believe would work).
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, Inc.
is an American businessman and philanthropist.
I’d take the motor out and inspect it thoroughly.
Also, if the threads on the impeller are worn and causing the impeller to wobble on the shaft, it should be replaced.
It is around 16 years old, according to my calculations.
I was wondering if the impellar could have deteriorated as a result of the materials that pass through it in the first place.
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, Inc.
is an American businessman and philanthropist.
However, if you have damaged any portion of your impeller, it is recommended that you replace it.
GOKIT66 is the part number for the repair kit for that pump.
I removed the impeller and thoroughly cleaned it.
The impeller is easy to move, and the motor is quiet.
Is it possible that this is the source of the problem and that it needs to be replaced?
Dennis R.
Posted:6/11/2013 Smitty (pronounced “Smitty”) is a fictional character created by author Smitty (also known as Smitty).
Check the voltage entering into your system.
Reply Smitty Posted:6/10/2013 On initial start-up of the pump, the motor operates at a modest speed for the first 20 seconds before shutting down completely.
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, Inc.
is an American businessman and philanthropist.
Furthermore, if your impeller was clogged, you would not have had adequate flow at first.
If your water was contaminated and you passed it through the filter, it is possible that the filter may need to be cleaned numerous times in order to remove the tiny particles from the filter.
It may be necessary to soak your filter with a TSP solution to assist clear out the tiny residue that has accumulated in the creases of your filter.
Published:6/1/2013When I clean my filters and reinstall them, the flow is good for a short period of time before it begins to slow down.
I was wondering whether it was possible that the pump was losing flow as the back pressure in the filter began to rise as a result of an issue with the impeller.
It takes about 2 hours after the pump is restarted before the flow begins to slow down.
Dennis R.
Posted:5/10/2013 a reduction in prime – Alternatively, if you are experiencing severe prime loss to the point that your pump is no longer able to draw in water – there is no water flow – you may have a leak in your vacuum hose.
Make certain that the hose is completely submerged in water.
Attach the remainder of your hoses but do not connect the cleaner at this point.
Your pump should be able to sustain prime once again.
If you are experiencing prime loss right now, you most likely have a leak in one of the hoses.
ReplyAnonymous Posted on:5/9/2013When I hook the pool vacuum at the skimmer, my Hayward super pump loses its prime, and I have no idea why.
What may be the source of the problem?
Dennis R.
Posted:4/23/2013 ds1 – ds1 – ds1 – ds1 – An impeller shaft seal that has failed is most likely to blame for a leak between the impeller and the motor.
After that, make sure that the impeller is in good working order (it should not be fractured or wobble) and that it is not blocked.
If the motor shaft does not rotate freely, it is likely that the bearings have failed.
Replyds1 Posted:4/23/2013 Earlier this year, I purchased a new above-ground pool with a 1 1/2 horsepower 2Sp pump.
There is a leak between the motor and the impeller after the hoses and pipes have been reinstalled.
Do you have any recommendations?
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, Inc.
is an American businessman and philanthropist.
It appears like the bolt has been stripped.
If the bolt or socket is stripped, you may have difficulty reassembling your pump because the bolt or socket will not stay in place.
Reply mckyd68 Posted:1/3/2013 On my Hayward Super pump, I’m attempting to disassemble the motor.
Do you have any recommendations?
Dennis R.
Posted on: August 27, 2012kfcrandy – Unless the impeller is clogged, you should not be concerned about it.
Additionally, if you have low pressure, it is possible that a suction leak has developed in your pump or in the piping leading to your pump.
Replykfcrandy Posted:8/25/2012My pump ran dry due to my pool running low on water, and now it has very low pressure.
Posted:8/25/2012My pump ran dry due to my pool running low on water, and now it has very low pressure.
Dennis R.
Sticked motor – Posted on:8/10/2012 The majority of pumps are simple to disassemble.
Try pounding around the joint with a rubber hammer.
Gently pull the motor out of the case.
Reply Removed the motor’s bolts in order to inspect the impeller for debris, but was unable to disassemble it due to the weight of the motor.
Happy Canuck, please respond.
Thanks!
I was completely wrong.
Replymarcy My 1-1/2-hp power flow Matrix pump is making an audible hissing noise, and I’m not sure what to do about it.
I got it for free from my boss.
Please assist me.
Dennis R.
A self-tightening impeller is one that works against the flow of water.
It is sufficient to tighten with one’s hands.
Reply Anonymous When may you overtighten the impeller to the shaft and how do you recognize when you have overtightened the impeller to the shaft?
Reply Ian Carucci is a composer from Italy. Posted:5/24/2012 Wow, I was on the verge of purchasing a new pump until I discovered that I could unclog the propeller in 5 minutes! Thank you very much! Reply
How to Service a Sterndrive Water Pump Impeller
Product Specialist at InyoPools, LLC. On February 27, 2017, Dennis R. posted a blog entry. wayneb56 – I’m a neanderthal who lives in the United States. As a result, the Century Motor representative responded as follows. “When answering a question like this, you really need to know the whole story. Despite the fact that we do not manufacture the motor, I believe it to be a three-phase induction motor. The amount of torque produced will vary depending on the speed chosen. Under low speed conditions and with an acceptable operating voltage, the torque will be more than sufficient to overcome seal drag.
It is unlikely that anyone would recommend attempting this procedure because of the possibility of hand injury.
On February 26th, 2017, Dennis R.
A motor cannot be stopped from spinning, at least not in my opinion, by simply holding the impeller in one’s hands.
Nevertheless, I’m stumped!
I’ll get back to you as soon as he responds.
Pump appeared to be not generating all of the power that it should have been (Pentair Superflo VS).
Reinstalled impeller bolt after separating the pump.
Is this correct?
posted on: 6/3/2016 by Dennis R.
Ensure that you have purchased the correct replacement shaft seal by performing a thorough inspection before proceeding.
Make sure that the shaft seal is not mounted upside down by following the instructions in step 15 of this guide.
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, LLC.
is an American businessman and philanthropist who lives in New York City.
Posted:4/29/2016 tony davidson – Step 15 of this guide will show you how to do this.
If you are trying to force the new collar over the old one, you are probably doing something wrong.
The seal on the impeller is not sticking after watching your excellent video.
Inside the new seal is a rubber seal that is protected by a metal bottom plate.
Which method would be the most effective for me?
Dennis R.
He founded the Dennis R.
If the nick is significant, I would recommend that the impeller be replaced to ensure that it is sound and well-balanced once again.
Make a visual inspection of the pump body for any cracks that may be present.
Verify that the top of the basket cavity has not cracked as a result of overtightening it.
In order to see if it would stop a leak, one owner temporarily packed plumber’s putty around each connection.
Reply Jerry Posted:5/25/2015 Having trouble priming my pump?
The pump was removed, and it was discovered that one of the impeller blades had a small nick in it.
Surely someone is taking in some fresh air!
If you are holding the shaft and preventing it from rotating, I’m not sure how the impeller is able to spin both ways.
You shouldn’t be able to move the shaft when you hold the other end of it in your hand.
Reply Anonymous Posted:4/5/2015 Thank you for sharing your knowledge on this website.
This is the crux of my dilemma.
The back screw has been turned counter-clockwise, which I have tried as well.
Thoughts?
Dennis R.
He founded the Dennis R.
Even though I’m not familiar with this pump, I think resorting to hammering it seems a little extreme, and you might end up damaging the pump in the process.
Reply PicklesPosted:12/18/2014 Dear Sir or Madam, Thank you so much for the excellent information and video you have provided.
The only material on my older pump is metal (I believe it is brass?).
Everything is ready to go, and I’ve already taken apart the impeller and pump that were attached to the dead motor.
From the shaft side of the impeller, there is a metal ring/piece that I can get at with a deep well socket and a hammer, and the only way I can see to get it out is to force it out with the socket and the hammer.
Thanks!
Dennis R.
He founded the Dennis R.
If your diffuser is in good condition, you will only need to purchase the diffuser gasket, also known as theBulkhead O-ring for this pump, which is not necessary.
O-rings for theStrainer Cover, theHousing, and the Shaft Seal are examples of these.
I’m not sure which diffuser gasket to order, so please direct me to the appropriate page.
Part 5110-82 is the one I’m looking at.
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, LLC.
is an American businessman and philanthropist who lives in New York City.
Posted:8/4/2014 “Ken” is a fictional character created by the author of “Ken.” In the opinion of the pump manufacturers, if the oil on your fingertips comes into contact with the ceramic bearing surfaces of the shaft seal, the surfaces will burn and deteriorate during operation.
Also, you might want to specify what kind of lubricant should be used on that gasket if you have one (silicon, I believe would work).
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, LLC.
is an American businessman and philanthropist who lives in New York City.
Posted:5/27/2014 Pool of Hygiene It takes quite some time for an impeller to turn a single revolution.
It should also be replaced if the threads on the impeller are worn and causing it to wobble on the shaft.
Approximately 16 years have passed since I bought it.
Specifically, I’m wondering if the impellar could have degraded as a result of the materials that pass through it.
– Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, LLC.
is an American businessman and philanthropist who lives in New York City.
Posted:5/25/2014 Medical professional number 1655 I’m also stumped as to what your three metal gaskets are.
Also, if you haven’t already, I recommend that you replace your motor shaft seal and gaskets.
Reply medic1655 posted:5/24/2016I was unable to get my Hayward Northstar pump to prime up anymore.
The result was that I ended up with three metal gaskets that I had no idea where they belonged and couldn’t find on the schematic, and I still didn’t have prime.
It was extremely difficult to remove the impeller, and while attempting to do so, a section of the outer edge snapped off.
TY Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, LLC.
is an American businessman and philanthropist who lives in New York City.
Posted:6/11/2013 Mister Smitty (also known as Smitty) is a fictional character created by author Smitty in the 1990s.
Check the voltage coming in from your power source.
Reply Smitty Posted:6/10/2013 On initial start-up of the pump, the motor runs at a slow speed for the first 20 seconds before shutting down completely.
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, LLC.
is an American businessman and philanthropist who lives in New York City.
6/2/2013dlc – Posted on 6/2/2013dlc The motor and impeller are most likely not the source of the noise if your motor is not creating excessive noise.
It appears to be a problem with the filter.
If you used chemicals to clear your water, it’s possible that these chemicals are clogging your filter as well.
Reply dlc As soon as I clean my filters and reinstall them, the flow is good for a short period of time before it begins to slow down.
The filter I use is slightly larger than the original and it performs better overall.
One of the filters is six months old and still does the same thing, so I do not believe it is the filters.
Reply Product Specialist at InyoPools, LLC.
is an American businessman and philanthropist who lives in New York City.
Posted:5/10/2013 losing one’s position in the hierarchy Alternatively, if you are experiencing severe prime loss to the point where your pump is no longer able to draw in water – there is no water flow – you may have an air leak in your vacuum hose.
Check to see that the hose is completely submerged in water before continuing with the procedure.
Without connecting the cleaner, connect the rest of your hoses.
You should be able to keep your pump primed once more.
It’s likely that you have a leak in one of the hoses if you’re experiencing prime loss right now.
ReplyAnonymous Posted on:5/9/2013When I attach the pool vacuum at the skimmer, my Hayward super pump loses its prime.
Which of these could be causing the issue?
Dennis R.
He founded the Dennis R.
Following the above instructions, I would remove the motor from the pump housing.
The impeller should then be rotated after that.
When the bearings fail, the majority of people replace the motor; however, with the proper tooling, they can also be repaired.
Winterization of my drains was completed.
In addition, there is a loud noise coming from the engine.
Think it’s a bad bearing or a bad pump seal, or something else entirely.
Dennis R.
He founded the Dennis R.
If the bolt is stripped, it will make a clicking sound.
The bolt or socket may not be able to hold the pump together when it is stripped, so be careful when reassembling the pump.
Reply mckyd68 Posted:1/3/2013 On my Hayward Super pump, I’m attempting to dismantle the motor.
Do you have any advice?
Dennis R.
He founded the Dennis R.
Unless the impeller is clogged, you don’t have a problem.
A suction leak in your pump or the piping leading to your pump could also be a cause of the low pressure you’ve experienced.
Replykfcrandy The impeller on my pump has worn out due to my pool being low on water.
Posted:8/25/2012My pump has worn out due to my pool being low on water and now it has very low pressure.
Dennis R.
He founded the Dennis R.
All but the most complicated pumps can be disassembled in minutes.
If you have a rubber hammer, you can try hitting the joint with it.
Remove the motor by gently prying it out from the case.
Reply The motor was unbolted to inspect the impeller for debris, but I was unable to remove it from its mounting bracket.
Is it necessary to pry the motor away from the vehicle’s chassis?
You just saved me from having to buy a new pump because of your page on how to clean the impeller.
In this case, I was mistaken!
Replymarcy My 1-1/2-hp power flow Matrix pump is making an audible hissing noise, and I’m not sure why.
Then he had it for 2 days and then I got it.
Dennis R.
He founded the Dennis R.
Posted:6/5/2012impeller – An impeller works against the flow of water.
If you overtighten the impeller with a wrench on the impeller end, you risk breaking it.
Reply Ian Carucci is a composer and musician from the United Kingdom. Posted:5/24/2012 What a difference 5 minutes can make! I was on the verge of purchasing a new pump when the propeller was clogged. Please accept my thanks. Reply