DIY Water Heater Installation
Time A busy day of work Complexity IntermediateCost$101–250
When your water heater begins to leak, you must act quickly to have it repaired or replaced. We’ll teach you how to set up your own natural gas water heater in less than a day’s time. Even if you do not require a new water heater at this time, it is likely that you will require one within the next few years. Water heaters typically have a lifespan of seven to fifteen years. If yours is beginning to show signs of wear, this post is also for you. If you’re familiar with basic equipment and have a little expertise soldering copper, replacing a water heater shouldn’t be too tough.
- Water and gas piping
- Discharge pipe
- Pipe thread compound
- Pressure relief valve
- Solder. Ventilation pipe and connections
- Pressure relief valve.
Getting Started Installing Your New Hot Water Tank
In this example, we’re swapping out a natural gas water heater for an electric water heater. The processes for replacing a propane water heater are identical to those for replacing an electric water heater, and the steps for replacing both are comparable. In any event, when it comes to arranging a water heater replacement, it’s best to be cautious. Call your local department of inspections and inquire as to whether or not you require a permit. Also, be certain that your work is checked by a plumbing or electrical inspector.
Plumbers normally charge between $45 and $65 per hour and can complete the installation of a water heater in a day or as little as 6-8 hours.
Gas water heaters with particular venting systems are also available, although they are more costly.
Water Heater Parts and Breakdown
- Fire pipe, cold water shutoff valve, draft diverter, temperature and pressure relief valve, overflow pipe, hot water outlet, anticorrosion anode rod, dip tube, elements, insulation, drain valve, thermostat or control valve, burner, thermocouple, gas supply valve, and more.
When to get a new water heater
When the tank of your water heater leaks, your water heater is out of commission. An indication that your water heater needs to be replaced is a gradual drop beneath the unit, which commonly manifests itself as a trail of discolored water. This indicates that the steel tank has corroded through and will be unable to be repaired. Other symptoms, such as little or no hot water, are typically indicative of other water heater repair issues that may be resolved by you. If you notice a drop, make a plan to get the water heater replaced as soon as possible.
New water heaters are sent with detailed installation instructions as well as several cautions to ensure that the gas, electrical, and other connections are handled properly.
However, you should be aware that you will be dealing with natural gas, propane, or electricity, all of which are potentially harmful.
And, after you’re finished, get your work examined.
Plumbing codes differ from one location to the next. You should explain to your local plumbing inspector how you want to install your new connections, including the sorts of materials you intend to use. Instead of making changes afterwards, it is preferable to seek advice early.
Figure A: Gas Water Heater Details
Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family See the Additional Information section at the end of this article for instructions on how to print this image.
Figure B: Connections for Steel and Plastic Pipe
Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family Water supply pipes in many residences are made of galvanized steel or polyvinyl chloride (CPVC). Replaceable galvanized steel pipes are quite difficult to come by. Using our photo series, we propose that you return the pipes to their original tees and screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple before finishing the connections with copper. Plastic tubing should be kept at least 6 inches away from the vent and tank due to the possibility of heat accumulation. Using a specific connection, you may make the transition from plastic to copper.
Flexible copper connectors are less difficult to install than solid copper connectors, which is especially important when the existing pipes and tank inlets do not match up.
If yours does, take extra care not to pinch or kink them when handling them.
Project step-by-step (12)
Turn off the gas to the water heater by twisting the shutdown valve a quarter turn away from the water heater. When the handle is turned off, it should be at a straight angle to the pipe. Also, turn off the main water supply and drain the pipes by opening a tap on the lowest floor of the building. Step No. 2
Drain the water in the tank
Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and use it to drain the water that has accumulated in the tank. The water will be boiling hot, so proceed with caution! With a pair of wrenches, disconnect the gas line at the neighboring union and remove the pipe from the gas control valve with a pipe wrench to complete the task.
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Cut off the water lines
The vent pipe should be moved to the side once it has been unscrewed from the vent hood. After that, using a tube cutter, cut the hot and cold water lines. For galvanized pipe, remove the unions and, if you have them, remove the nuts on the flexible connections as well. Move the old water heater to the side of the room. Step number four.
Attach the relief valve
Teflon tape should be used to seal the threads of the new temperature and pressure relief valve (three turns). With a pipe wrench, tighten it inside the tank until it is completely sealed. Glue a copper discharge pipe to the wall (see Fig. A for routing details). Step number five.
Attach pipe assemblies
Solder fresh copper adapters to 6-in. lengths of 3/4-in. copper pipe and screw the assemblies into the hot water outlet and cold water inlet ports on the top of the tank’s tank’s tank’s tank. Make use of short, plastic-lined nipples to protect your pipes from galvanic corrosion, especially if you have hard water or if they are required by your local building standards. Step 6: Organize your thoughts and feelings about the situation.
Attach the water lines
Slide the new water heater into position, recut or lengthen the old tubing to connect it to the new, and solder the tubing together using copper slip couplings to complete the installation.
If the tubing does not line up properly, use pairs of 45-degree elbows to adjust the alignment of the lines. Step 7 – Organize your time and resources.
Reattach the vent
Reconnect the vent if necessary. Place it securely over the draft hood and secure it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws to hold it in place. Prepare the holes by drilling them beforehand. Before turning at the first elbow, the vent should rise at least 12 inches vertically from the floor. In this eighth step, you will learn how to use a comma to separate the words “and” and “and not.”
Use two wrenches to attach the gas line
Reconnect the gas line if necessary. Pipe joint compound should be applied to the threaded ends before screwing the first nipple into the gas valve. To minimize straining the valve, use two pipe wrenches at the same time. Reassemble the remaining nipples, concluding with the union at the end of the process (Photo 2). Then, in order to fill the tank, perform these four steps: To check for leaks, perform the following steps: (1) cut off the main water valve; (2) re-connect the water at the main shutoff; (3) open the cold-water valve on the water heater (but do not close it); and (4) turn on a nearby hot-water faucet until water flows out.
Check for backdrafting
The majority of water heaters rely on a natural airflow to carry combustion emissions up the chimney and out of the building. If the draft does not operate, the fumes, which may contain lethal carbon monoxide, will be released into your home and cause you to become sick. Check the draft when you’ve finished installing everything. Close all of your external doors and windows, and put on the exhaust fans in your kitchen and bathroom. Continue to run a hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in your water heater come to life.
Ideally, the smoke should be drawn upward through the vent pipe.
Turn off the gas supply to the water heater and contact a certified plumber to diagnose and remedy the problem.
Check for leaks
When it comes to drawing combustion gases up the chimney, the vast majority of water heaters rely on natural airflow. The gases, which may contain lethal carbon monoxide, will stream out into your home if the draft isn’t working correctly. Check the draft when you’ve finished with your setup. Make sure all outside doors and windows are closed, as well as the exhaust fans in your kitchen and bathroom. Continue to run a hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in your water heater come on.
The smoke should be pulled upwards through the vent pipe to be expelled.
Turn off the gas supply to the water heater and contact a certified plumber to diagnose and remedy the problem.
In this final step, you will learn about
Light the pilot light
The pilot light should be turned on in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. (When using an electric water heater, turn on the electricity at the main panel after your work has been checked by the electrical inspector).
Once you’ve finished, adjust the temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit according to the installation instructions. The pilot light in the new water heater should be lit, then the temperature setting should be adjusted.
Installation Details for Electric Water Heaters
At your main electrical panel, turn off all power to your water heater, then turn it back on. After that, empty the water heater in the same manner as you would a gas water heater. As soon as the water heater has been drained, separate the electrical wires from the screw terminals under the access panel, which is normally situated towards the top of the water heater. To handle all of the electrical wiring, you should engage an electrician if you don’t have any prior knowledge with it. When it comes to wiring the new water heater, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
- x 4-in.
- metal electrical box on the wall or ceiling near the water heater, route the old wires to the box, and then run a new length of armored cable or electrical conduit to the water heater to complete the installation.
- The circuit should also have a shutdown switch that is visible from the vicinity of the water heater.
- You’ll almost certainly require a permit.
- Aluminum wire needs specific care and handling.
- This wiring is a dull gray color, rather than the drab orange color that is characteristic of copper wiring.
How to Dispose of a Water Heater
Shut off the water heater by first turning off the electricity at the main electrical panel. Then, much like with a gas water heater, drain the tank using the same process as above. When the water heater has been emptied, separate the electrical wires from the screw terminals under the access panel, which is normally situated towards the top of the water heater body. To handle all of the electrical wiring, you should engage an electrician if you don’t have any knowledge. When it comes to wiring the new water heater, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
- x 4-in.
- metal electrical box on a nearby wall or ceiling, connect the old wires to the box, and then run a new section of armored cable or electrical conduit to the water heater from the box.
- The circuit should also have a shutdown switch that is visible from the area around the water heater.
- Obtaining a permission will almost certainly be necessary.
- A unique approach must be taken with aluminum wire.
Contact a licensed professional who is familiar with aluminum wiring if you have any. Unlike copper wire, which is typically orange, this wiring is a dull gray color instead of the typical dull orange color. Step 12 – Organize your time and space effectively.
These tips will make your work go faster and easier:
- To avoid modifying the length of your water, gas, or electrical lines, take note of the height of your existing water heater and get a new one that is the same height
- On older water heaters, the drain valve (Photo 2) frequently becomes clogged. Please be patient if the water drains slowly. WARNING: The temperature is really high! TIP: Turn off your water heater two hours before you want to use it to enable the water to cool. Water heaters are around 150 pounds in weight. When you’re moving the old one out and wheeling the new one in, you’ll need a strong partner or a dolly to assist you. Ordinarily, garbage collection agencies charge approximately $25 to remove the old one. Before you begin, go to a plumbing supply or hardware store, or a home center, and purchase the equipment and materials seen below. Check the sizes of the water supply pipes (the majority will be 3/4 in., as shown in our photographs) and purchase the fittings that are the proper size. If you have everything you need, you should be able to complete the work in four to six hours (provided there are no major problems!). This safety mechanism, which controls tank pressure and prevents it from bursting, is located in the tank’s pressure relief valve assembly (Photo 4). It is necessary to include a fresh one with each installation. The discharge pipe must be kept clear of impediments in order for the valve to function correctly (see Fig. A). Use 3/4-in. plastic-lined nipples (about $2 each
- Photo 5 and Fig. A) to attach other metals, mainly copper tubing to the steel tank, in areas where the water is highly mineralized or where it is needed by municipal laws. This has the effect of slowing rusting. In order to avoid heating the tank itself during soldering, solder the copper fittings before screwing them to the tank (Photo 5)
- Slip couplings should be used to link the existing and new water lines (Photo 6). (Photo 6). They do not have an internal stop, in contrast to normal couplings. Alternatively, you may slip them on, align the copper tubing, then slide them back and center them over the junction
- However, the new inlets and outlets on the tank don’t always line up with the old supply lines, and vice versa. If required, solder in a pair of 45-degree fittings to ensure that each line is offset. While you’re doing it, you should also replace the old cutoff valve with a new ball valve (Photo 6). The diameter of the vents is determined by the amount of heat produced by the water heater. In order to achieve the ideal draft, you may need to raise or reduce the ventilation size. CAUTION: If you’re not sure whether or not your chimney has a liner, consult with a plumbing inspector. Make gas connections using solid steel pipe (Photo 8) or soft copper tubing with flare fittings (Fig. A). Both are more dependable and less expensive than flexible stainless steel connections, which are not usually allowed in some applications. For the same reasons, rigid copper water supply lines should be used rather than flexible copper water supply lines
- If your water heater replacement is located in a location where leaking might cause damage to the floor or other elements of the home, lay a pan of an appropriate size beneath it (metal for gas water heaters). a drain tube that connects to a home drain or another suitable site must be installed in the pan (outdoors where permitted). If a leak might cause damage to the flooring, the discharge tube for the temperature and pressure relief valves must also connect to a drain. If routing is a problem, consult with your local plumbing inspector about possible solutions. Special straps should be used to secure your water heater to the wall if you reside in an earthquake-prone location (Fig. A
- Available at plumbing stores and home centers). If they are necessary, your plumbing inspector will inform you of this. Ensure that the new water temperature setting does not exceed 120 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid scorching
Water Heater Maintenance: How to Extend the Life of Your Hot Water Heater How to Repair a Leaking Water Heater Water Heater Installation Instructions on how to replace the TPR valve on a water heater Solar Water Heater Made at Home How to Repair or Replace Water Heater Dip Tubes That Are Defective How to Flush a Water Heater (with Pictures) The Process of Purchasing a New Water Heater 7 Myths About Tankless Water Heaters That You Should Never Believe The Advantages and Disadvantages of Tankless Water Heaters
How to Install an Electric Water Heater
Installing a new electric water heater can allow you to save both money and electricity. How to do it is demonstrated in our video and step-by-step instructions. Please keep in mind that product pricing, availability, and item numbers may differ from market to market.
Before You Begin
Examine your water heater to see whether it need replacement or if routine maintenance would suffice. There might be a problem with the heating element or another type of maintenance issue if you are not getting hot water. Before committing to a complete replacement, conduct a brief maintenance inspection. If you have water on the floor or on top of the unit (as opposed to water leaking from a supply line above the unit), you’ll most likely need to replace your water heater as soon as possible.
A excellent time to think about upgrading or reducing your electric water heater is when your family’s size has increased or decreased.
If you’re not confident in your ability to complete water heater installation, hire a professional.
A decrease in pressure reduces the stress placed on plumbing systems and helps to increase the lifespan of appliances and fixtures.
The water pressure in your house is critical for all of the equipment that use water. A decrease in pressure reduces the stress placed on plumbing systems and helps to increase the lifespan of appliances and fixtures. Check the water pressure in your house by attaching a pressure gauge to an exterior spigot. The optimal PSI ranges from 50 to 60 PSI. if the water pressure in your house is more than 80 PSI, use the pressure-reducing valve located near the main water shut-off to decrease the pressure.
If you don’t already have a pressure-reducing valve in your house, a professional can install one for you.
For all water-using equipment, the water pressure in your home is essential. Having less pressure puts a less strain on plumbing lines and helps to improve the lifespan of appliances and fixtures. Use a pressure gauge on your outside spigot to check the water pressure in your house. The optimal PSI ranges between 50 and 60 PSI. The pressure-reducing valve located at the main water shut-off should be used if the water pressure in your residence is more than 80 PSI.
For pressure monitoring, you may want to think about using an inline pressure gauge. Professionals can set up pressure-reducing valves in your home if yours does not already have them.
Removing the Old Water Heater
The following steps will walk you through the process of installing an electric water heater. When transporting a water heater, employ a helper, an appliance dolly, or a hand truck to ensure that the device is not damaged.
Even with the temperature gauge set at 120 degrees, the risk of scalds remains a possibility. Children, the elderly, and individuals with delicate skin are particularly at risk of developing skin cancer. Consider adding thermostatic mixing valves to keep people safe from being hurt. Installed at the point of use faucet, fixture, or appliance, a thermostatic mixing valve regulates both the volume and temperature of water by connecting to both the hot and cold water supply lines at the same location.
How to: Install a Hot Water Heater with SharkBite
Burns are still a risk, even when the temperature gauge is set to 120 degrees. Particularly at danger are children, the elderly, and persons with sensitive skin. Take into consideration the installation ofthermostatic mixing valves to avoid injuries. A thermostatic mixing valve, which is installed at the point of use faucet, fixture, or appliance, regulates both the volume and temperature of water by connecting to both the hot and cold water supplies. The settings may be changed inside the valve itself in order to give the most comfortable experience possible.
- Working in confined places
- Simple connections between water heaters and pre-existing pipes that do not line up
- The ability to attach the water heater to practically any type of pipe material is essential.
SharkBite hot water heater connectors have been authorized for use with electric or gas water heaters that have a flu vent installed.
Braided vs. Corrugated Water Heater Hoses
SharkBite provides both braided and corrugated flexible water heater hoses, as well as ball valves for use with or without a heater. On the supply side of the water heater, ball valves on the water heater hoses offer a shutoff. To determine if hard piping to your water heater is necessary, check with your local plumbing regulations. When rigid pipe is not an option, stainless steel corrugated connectors can be utilized as a substitute.
Installing a SharkBite Water Heater Hose
- First and foremost, determine the pipe material. Measure the distance between the hot and cold supply lines and the water heater in order to select the appropriate length connection
- Et cetera Make sure to cut the pipe as cleanly as straight as you possibly can. Check to see that the pipe is clear of scratches and other debris. If you’re working with copper pipe, be sure there are no sharp edges or burrs on the pipe. Once this is completed, use your SharkBiteDeburrGauge tool to measure and indicate the insertion depth on your pipe. Hand tighten the female connector onto the pipe nipple and then tighten with a quarter turn using a wrench, being careful not to overtighten the connector. Is it necessary for me to use thread tape? No. SharkBite water heater connections employ a gasket to seal onto the nipples of the water heater pipe, so thread tape is not necessary. To install the fitting, push it all the way to the mark you just created. Then repeat the process on the hot water exit side
- Finally, switch on your water and double-check the connections to your hot water heater. If you detect water dripping from the pipe nipple connection, use a wrench to tighten the connection even further.
Installing a hot water heater using SharkBite is a quick, efficient, and dependable process. The field-proven design of our hot water heater connectors is simple, secure, and adaptable enough to meet the needs of any installation project, no matter how complicated.
A. O. Smith Water Heaters at Lowes
It is quick, efficient, and dependable to install a hot water heater using SharkBite. Simple, secure, and adaptable, the field-proven design of our hot water heater connectors may be customized to meet the specific needs of each installation.
- Installing a hot water heater with SharkBite is simple, quick, and efficient. The field-proven design of our hot water heater connectors is simple, secure, and adaptable enough to meet the needs of any installation project, no matter how complex.
- If you have copper pipes, you should consider purchasing an Electric Water Heater Installation Kit (available at hardware shops and home centers), which includes compression fittings that do not require soldering. When installing plastic pipe in a residence, utilize threaded connections that are appropriate for the type of plastic pipe being used: CPVC or PEX (cross-linked polyethylene). Use of PVC or iron pipe is not recommended. Valve for shutting off the system
- Thermostatic mixing valves are used in many applications.
Step3:Open Box and Remove the Water Heater
- Cut along the dotted lines on the water heater box to make it smaller.
Step4:Read the Printed Installation Instructions and Labels
- Using the dotted lines, cut the water heater box.
Step5:Install the Drain Pan
- Install an appropriate drain pan that is connected to a proper drainage system. Make sure that the drain is installed such that the water level is confined to a maximum depth of 1-3/4″. At least two inches wider than the diameter of the water heater is required for a proper drain pan.
Step6:Install the Water Heater in the Drain Pan
- Place the water heater in the drain pan, being careful not to damage the drain pan
- And WARNING: Water heaters are quite hefty. If you don’t have an appliance dolly, it’s best to have two or more people help you remove or install a water heater. Failure to do so may result in a back injury or another type of harm. Check to see that there is sufficient access to and space around the water heater for future maintenance.
Step7:Install the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve
- Almost all T P Relief Valves (Temperature and Pressure Relief Valves) are fitted at the manufacture. It is necessary to place your T P Relief Valve in the aperture labeled “T P Relief Valve” if it is included in a separate carton. Use the new T P Relief Valve that was included with your new water heater to relieve pressure. Do not use the previous one again
- WARNING! If your water heater did not come with a T P Relief Valve (as well as a discharge pipe), install one (as well as a discharge pipe) in accordance with the printed installation instructions to avoid serious injury or death as a result of an explosion.
Step8:Install the Discharge Pipe
- Install the discharge pipe in the appropriate location. The discharge pipe should have an internal diameter of at least 3/4″ and should be slanted to allow for efficient drainage. Install it so that the entire drainage system can function
- The discharge pipe must be able to endure temperatures of 250°F (121°C) without distorting. Only copper, PEX, or CPVC pipe should be used. Use of any other form of pipe, such as PVC, iron, flexible plastic pipe, or any other sort of hose, is strictly prohibited. Finish the discharge pipe at least 1″ above a floor drain or outside, with a maximum of 6″ above the drain or outside. Instead of draining the discharge pipe into the drain pan, pipe it to a suitable drain instead. If you live in a cold region, you should connect the discharge line within the building to a suitable drain. Drains on the outside of the house might freeze and clog the drain line. It is not recommended to install any valves or other restrictions between the tank and the T P Relief Valve. It is not permissible to cap, block, plug, or insert any valve between the T P Relief Valve and the discharge pipe’s termination. Installing a reducer in the discharge pipe is not recommended.
Step9:Install Shutoff Valve
- Install a manual shutdown valve in the cold water line that serves the water heater if one hasn’t previously been set up in that location. It is best to locate the shutdown valve next to the water heater so that it is easily reached. Only utilize a full-flow ball or gate valve that is suitable with potable water
- The placement and piping of your water heater will determine how you complete this stage. Consult the installation manual for further information.
Step10:Install Thermostatic Mixing Valves
- Install a Thermostatic Mixing Valve at each point of usage (for example, the kitchen sink, the bathroom sink, the bath, and the shower) in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Always install a Thermostatic Mixing Valve or other temperature restriction mechanism in the inlet water supply line of a water heater that is fed by a solar water heating system (or any other pre-heating system) to limit the water supply input temperature to 120°F. WARNING! Water that is too hot can produce severe burns very immediately, resulting in serious damage or death. Ensure that there are Thermostatic Mixing Valves installed at each point of usage to minimize the danger of scalding.
Step11:Flexible Connectors are Easier to Work With
- When connecting the water pipes to the water heater, compression fittings are used to make it easier to remove the water heater for servicing or replacement. To connect the copper pipes to the water heater when soldering copper pipes, utilize dielectric unions to connect the pipes to the water heater
- It is possible to purchase installation kits that include flexible stainless steel connections and compression fittings that do not require soldering to be installed. Furthermore, many flexible connections are equipped with built-in dielectric fits. Ensure that the fittings you use are appropriate for the kind of pipe in your property. Pipes made of copper, PEX, or CPVC should be used. Use of iron or PVC pipe is not recommended. NOTICE: Do not solder pipes while they are connected to a water heater or while they are in use. The water heater’s input and output connections contain nonmetallic elements that might be harmed if they are not properly maintained.
Step12:Measure Pipes Carefully
- Use the installation kit with flexible connections to measure both water lines if you are using a flexible connector installation kit.
Step13:Cut Water Pipes to Length
- Reduce the length of both water pipes, but leave them a few inches longer than the specification. You may always shorten them if the situation calls for it.
Step14:Install Compression Fittings
- Tighten compression fittings on both water lines after they have been installed. Take a look at this little video to learn how it’s done.
Step15:Pipe Joint Compound or Plumber’s Tape
- Only use pipe joint compound or plumber’s tape on threaded connections
- Do not use it anywhere else.
Step16:Connect the Water Supply
- 3/4-inch hose is used to connect the cold water supply “To connect the output connection on the water heater marked “C” (cold), use an NPT threaded adaptor. 3/4-inch hose is used to connect the hot water supply “To connect the output connection on the water heater marked “H” (HOT), use an NPT threaded adaptor.
Step17:Check the Water Pipes
- Examine and confirm that the hot and cold water pipes in the residence are connected to the appropriate hot and cold water fittings on the water heater
Step18:Dry the Pipe Connections
- It is necessary to dry the pipe connections in order to detect any drips or leaks.
Step19:Turn the Cold Water Supply ON
- Fill the tank with cold water by turning on the cold water supply again.
Step20:Remove the Aerator
NOTICE: Do not switch on the electrical power until you are certain that all of the air has been removed from the tank and that the tank is entirely filled with water. Using electricity before the tank is entirely filled with water will result in a dry fire in the upper element.
- NOTICE: Do not switch on the electrical power until you are certain that all of the air has been removed from the tank and that the tank is entirely filled with water. It is possible that the upper element will burn out (dry fire) if power is introduced before the tank is entirely filled with water. Follow these procedures to remove all air from the tank and let the tank to entirely fill with water: Remove the aerator from the hot water faucet that is closest to you. All junk in the plumbing system is cleaned out of the pipes as a result of this.
Step21:Open a Hot Water Faucet
- Open a hot water faucet and let the water to flow continuously until it reaches its maximum flow
- Allow the water to run at full stream for THREE MINUTES in order to flush out all of the air from the tank. NOTICE: Before attaching electrical power to the tank, you must first remove all of the air from the tank and allow the tank to completely fill with water.
Step22:Close the Hot Water Faucet and Replace the Aerator
- Close the hot water faucet and reinstall the aerator when all of the air has been removed from the tank.
Step23:Check for Leaks
- Check for leaks at the input and outlet connections, as well as in the water pipes. Tighten the fittings and fix any leaks that may have occurred. It is almost always the case that leaks occur at connections and not at the tank
Step24:Check for Electrical Power
- Check the power lines using a non-contact circuit tester to ensure that the power has been turned off completely. WARNING! Working on an electrified circuit has the potential to cause serious damage or death due to electrical shock. Check the cables with a volt meter or circuit tester to ensure that the power has been turned off
Step25:Install Wiring in a Conduit
- Verify that the power is turned off by using a non-contact circuit tester to check the power wires WARNING! The use of an electrified circuit can result in serious damage or death as a result of an electric shock. Use a voltmeter or circuit tester to check that the power has been turned off at the source.
Step26:Remove the Junction Box Cover
- Disconnect the electrical connection box located on the top of the water heater by removing the lid.
Step27:Insert Conduit Connector
- Insert the conduit connector and power wires into the junction box cover through the opening in the cover. Strain-relief nut should be attached.
Step28:Connect the Ground Wire
- Using the bare copper or green ground wire from the house, connect it to the water heater’s green ground screw.
Step29:Connect the Home’s Power Wires
- Connect the two power wires from the house to the two service wires from the water heater. Make the power connections by using wire nuts or other approved methods that are appropriate for the situation.
Step30:Replace the Junction Box Cover
- Replace the junction box lid and fasten it with the screws that were provided
- And NOTE: Make certain that the cover is properly attached to prevent the risk of fire and electric shock.
Step31:Install Strain Relief
- When connecting the electrical cabling to the water heater, use a strain relief that is UL rated or CSA approved.
Step32:Turn Power ON
- Power should be turned on at the circuit breaker (or fuses should be replaced). It may take several hours for a tank of cold water to get up to the appropriate temperature. If you still don’t have hot water after two hours, refer to the troubleshooting section for assistance.
Step33:Install Insulation on the Water Pipes
- Water pipes should be insulated (or heated using heat tape), especially if the interior installation location is subjected to cold temperatures. Insulating the hot water line might help you save money on your energy bills.
Step34:Adjusting the Temperature
Thermal protection has been provided by factory setting the thermostat(s) on this water heater at about 120°F to limit the danger of scald injury.
In order to supply hot water for automated dishwashers or washing machines, as well as to increase hot water capacity and decrease bacterial development, you may want to set the temperature higher.
- Thermal protection has been provided by factory setting the thermostat(s) on this water heater at about 120°F to limit the danger of scald injury. In order to supply hot water for automated dishwashers or washing machines, to increase the capacity of the hot water heater, and to limit bacterial development, you may want to raise the temperature higher. WARNING! Because of the increased danger of scorching when the water heater’s thermostat(s) is set higher than 120°F, it is advised to install Thermostatic Mixing Valves at each point of use to lessen the risk of scalding
- However, this is not required. Inspect and adjust Thermostatic Mixing Valves as needed at various places of usage around your home (for example, the bathtub faucet, shower, and lavatory sink)
- If you really want to modify the temperature, you may do so by following the instructions in Standard Electric Troubleshooting: Adjusting the Temperature.
Plumbing for Dummies
If you can comprehend the fundamental principles of nature, you should be able to comprehend plumbing repairs. Consider the forces of gravity, pressure, and water, and how the three work together to cause your toilet to flush, tub to fill, and faucet to run. It is not necessary to be a plumber at Anthony PHC to understand these principles. Even more importantly, we’ll demonstrate to you how to remedy some of your own plumbing issues!
Subsystems and Shutoff Valves
The plumbing system in your home is divided into two subsystems: one that provides fresh water into the house and another that removes waste water from the house. Because the water entering your home is under pressure, it has the ability to flow upstairs and around corners. When water enters your home, it travels via a meter, which keeps track of how much water you’re consuming and bills you accordingly. In most cases, your main water shutoff valve is located near the meter, and it should be stopped as fast as possible in the event of a plumbing issue to avoid flooding.
Plumbing systems in your home are divided into two subsystems: one that provides fresh water into the house and another that removes waste water. Water entering your property is under pressure, so it has the ability to move up and around corners. In your home, water travels via a meter that tracks how much water you’re consuming and how much water you’re saving. A plumbing issue should prompt you to close your main water shutoff valve, which is usually located near the meter. This will avoid floods if you don’t act promptly.
Drainage Systems and Vents
Drainage systems vary from supply systems in that they do not rely on pressure to function properly. Because the drainage pipes are angled downward, waste material is expelled from the home. Gravity will perform all of the heavy lifting in this case. Eventually, the sewage from these pipelines filters into a sewage treatment plant or a septic tank, respectively. Various components such as vents, catchbasins, and cleanouts all contribute to the accomplishment of this goal. Air may enter your drainpipes through vents that extend out from the top of your house, according to howstuffworks.com.
Trap in the Nastiness
Drainage systems vary from supply systems in that they are not reliant on pressure to function well. Because the drainage pipes are angled downward, waste material departs the home. Gravity will perform all of the heavy lifting in this situation. Finally, the sewage is filtered and sent through the pipelines into the sewage treatment plant or septic tank. Various components such as vents, catchbasins, and cleanouts all help to the accomplishment of this task.
According to howstuffworks.com, “the vents that protrude from the top of your house allow air to enter the drainpipes.” The wastewater would have to be pumped away if there was no air supply coming in through the vents.
Unblocking a Trap
The following methods can be followed if you find yourself in the unfortunate situation of needing to unblock a trap. A bowl, a bucket, an old toothbrush, and replacement washers will be required for this repair. The first step is to remove the trap from the sink. After that, place a basin beneath it to capture any excess water. Remove whatever is causing the clog and thoroughly rinse the trap with clean water. The toothbrush should be used for a thorough cleaning. While the trap is being dismantled, you may go ahead and replace any worn washers.
Because the drain, waste, and vent are all required for things to work properly in your plumbing system, it is critical that all of these components are serviced on a regular basis.
A fixture is defined as a connection between the supply and drainage systems (which are two entirely independent systems). Toilets, sinks, washing machines, and exterior faucets are all examples of fixtures that are used in the home. This category includes everything that pulls in freshwater while also discharging effluent. Because some fixtures have separate shutdown valves, you don’t have to close the main shutoff when performing repairs, which is a huge convenience.
Fittings are used to connect two systems that are entirely separate: the supply system and the drainage system. Toilets, sinks, washing machines, and exterior faucets are all examples of fixtures that are used in a home. This category includes everything that pulls in freshwater while also discharging garbage. Some fixtures have separate shutdown valves, which means you don’t have to close the main shutoff when performing repairs. This is a nice feature.
Unclogging Sink Drains
When it comes to unclogging sink drains, all you’ll need is a drain stopper and an adjustment arm. Most of the time, these jams occur at the pop-up component of the sink drain. To begin, remove the spring tab from the drain plug adjustment arm and set it aside. Remove the ball valve from the sink trap as well as the pop-up plug after that. Remove the debris that is obstructing the sink drain and revel in the fact that your sink drain is completely operational.
You’ll simply need a drain stopper and an adjustment arm to unclog a clogged sink drain. Most of the time, these jams occur around the drain’s pop-up assembly. The drain plug adjustment arm must first be disassembled by removing the spring tab from it. Then, remove the ball valve from the sink trap as well as the pop-up stopper from the sink trap assembly. Remove the dirt that is obstructing the sink drain and revel in the fact that your sink drain is now completely functional!
Fixing Water Pressure in the Shower
Use a descaling agent to remove limescale accumulation from your shower head in order to boost the water pressure. To do this project, you’ll need a screwdriver, a bowl, and descaling solution. Remove the shower head from the hose by unscrewing it from the hose. Then, remove the spray plate and submerge it entirely in a descaling solution (ensure that it is totally submerged). Allow the spray plate to soak in the solution for a period of time (the length of time varies), and then flush any leftover scale from the pipes before replacing the shower head with another one.
Alternatively, if the low water pressure persists, contact an Anthony PHC plumber to see whether the situation is more serious.
Make use of a descaling solution to eliminate limescale accumulation from your shower head in order to improve water pressure. This project will require the use of a screwdriver, a bowl, and descaling solution. Disconnect the shower head from its hose by unscrewing the nut that holds it in place. Disassemble the spray plate and immerse it entirely in a descaling solution (ensure that it is thoroughly submerged in the solution.) Prior to restoring the shower head, soak the spray plate in the solution for a while (the length of time varies) and flush the pipes to remove any leftover scale.
Septic tanks, which are installed in many residences, serve as private sewage treatment. This is typically required for residences that are located in more rural locations and are far away from their neighbors’ homes. Large concrete or steel tanks that are placed underground, usually in the back or front yard, and with a capacity of 1,000 gallons of water are what septic tanks are. The water enters the tank from one end and exits the tank at the other end of the tank. The water in a septic tank is often separated into three layers: the scum layer at the top (which contains everything that floats), the sludge layer at the bottom (which contains anything heavier than water), and the middle layer (which contains everything else) (relatively clear water layer).
Sinks are equipped with P-traps because the septic tank emits foul odors.
Instead of pouring into your home, the gases rise via the vent pipe and out the roof (seen poking through house roofs).
Whenever additional water is introduced into the tank, the water that was previously there is forced out into a drain field. The drain field is made up of perforated pipes that are buried in gravel-filled pits. Drain pipes are normally 4 inches in diameter and are buried in trenches that are 4-6 feet deep and 2 feet wide, with the depth of the trenches varying. Gravel is used to fill the trench’s bottom layer, which is around 2 to 3 feet deep. This layer of gravel is protected by a layer of soil.
Depending on the kind of ground material, you may need a larger drain field installed.
Gravity is all that is required to power a septic tank, therefore this passive system should not result in a significant increase in your power and electricity bills.
The grass above your septic tank will be grainier as a result of the soil absorbing moisture and nutrients from the drain field, which is a nice added bonus! An Anthony PHC plumber can provide you with further information about the advantages and disadvantages of installing a septic tank.
An Anthony PHC plumber will be aware of the specific actions that must be taken to restore your plumbing to working order. Faucet repairs, garbage disposers, instant hot water installation, outdoor hose faucet, plumbing repair, sewer and drain cleaning, sump pumps, tankless water heaters, toilet repairs and installation, water heaters, and water softeners are some of the services we provide. Contact us today for a free estimate. Contact us right now if you want prompt help from pros with extensive expertise.
You will not be able to take a lengthy and leisurely bath if there is no hot water available. Although it may seem insignificant, hot water is significantly more crucial in your house than you may imagine. Aside from that, your water heater guarantees that you can thoroughly wash your hands. Water heaters are extremely significant pieces of plumbing equipment since they provide hot water for your dishwasher, washing machine, and home heating system, among other things. If your gas water heater is not working properly, our gas water heater professionals may be able to provide you with the assistance you want.
We provide water heater installation and water heater replacement services in Oklahoma City, and our services are available throughout the whole Oklahoma City region.
- Pilot light repairs, Unitrol gas valve replacement, electric elements, thermostats, T-n-P valves, leaks, tank flushing and cleaning are some of the services we do. Water that is hot yet quickly becomes chilly
- Anode replacement every 5 years
- Tanks for thermal expansion and valves for thermal expansion
- Tank heights, recirculation lines, mixing valves, and hot water tank noise are all important considerations.
Call Plumb Crazy Plumbing now to book a water heater inspection with one of our experienced technicians! In any case, we’ll ensure that you have a completely functional water heater that will endure for many years to come, whether it’s purchased from us or obtained from a provider of your choosing. We also offer free consultations and on-site estimates to help you choose the best solutions for your specific needs and financial requirements.
The following are examples of our installation and repair services:
Pilot Light Repairs
If the pilot light on your water heater does not illuminate, the water heater will not run. Pilot light repairs are frequently quick and simple, allowing us to get your hot water running again in as little as a few hours in most cases.
Unitrol Gas Valve Replacement
Your water heater will not run if the pilot light does not illuminate. Fortunately, pilot light repairs are frequently quick and straightforward, allowing us to restore hot water to your home in as little as a few hours in most cases.
Your water heater will not run if the pilot light does not ignite. Pilot light repairs are frequently quick and simple, allowing us to restore hot water to your home in as little as a few hours.
The thermostat in your water heater monitors the temperature and controls whether or not the heater is turned on or off.
If this component is broken, your water heater may fail to function when you need it. Other issues can include the fact that it is continually operating and wasting both energy and money. Our water heater repair services include the inspection and replacement of your thermostat.
T-n-P valves are used to keep pressure and temperature within acceptable limits. We can replace the T-n-P valves on your water heater in order to fix it.
We provide water heater installation services to all OKC residents in order to assist them in identifying and repairing any leaks that may exist within their water heater system.
Tank Flush and Cleaning
We can empty and clean your hot water tank, ensuring that it is free of pollution and that it can continue to work properly in the future.
Fluctuating Water Temperature
If your hot water suddenly becomes lukewarm, we can determine the source of the problem and take steps to prevent it from occurring in the future.
5yr Anode Replacement
If your hot water suddenly becomes lukewarm, we can determine the source of the problem and take steps to prevent it from occurring in the future, saving you money on your utility bills.
Thermal Expansion Tanks and Valves
Thermal expansion tanks and valves are part of the pressure safety system that protects your heater. We are able to make repairs for these critical components.
We can properly arrange your water heater to ensure that it operates at peak efficiency.
It is possible for us to repair hot water recirculation lines. These repairs might include leak repair and leak sealer services, which are all performed by a qualified gas water heater technician with extensive experience.
In order for you to be able to safely touch the water in the system, mixing valves are installed. We have the ability to fix these critical temperature controls.
Hot Water Tank Noise
If your hot water tank is making a lot of noise, it may be annoying and even interfere with your sleep. Allow us to evaluate your water heater to see whether there is an internal problem producing the loud noise, as well as whether there is a solution to make it quieter if there is.
Quality Pro Grade Heaters
Locally based support for professional-grade water heaters is offered, with a full range of replacement components for home tanks also accessible. If there is ever an issue, the downtime will be kept to a bare minimum as a result. Any A.O. Smith Pro version 6 year tank is eligible for a 4-year warranty extension if purchased at the time of the original purchase. As of 04/16/19, the tanks we build are eligible for a $50 ONG Rebate, provided that funding is available at the time of installation.
Trust Our Specialists
We are professionals in the field of water heaters. Our gas water heater professionals and electric water heater specialists provide dependable servicing, which includes 24-hour emergency response time. Plumb Crazy Plumbing is the company you call when you need a water tank repair or replacement. We provide a 30-day warranty on repairs and a 1-year warranty on replacement components to provide you peace of mind when you shop with us. Our expertise as electric water heater specialists comes highly rated, and we also provide many additional components and services.
Contact Us: 405-604-5278
Is it necessary for you to have hot water repairs or replacement in Oklahoma City?
Call Plumb Crazy Plumbing now, and one of our professionals will visit to your location to inspect your gas or electric water heater.
How Much Does Water Heater Installation Cost?
Water heaters are one of the most often used household appliances in households all over the world, especially in developing countries. In the winter, having a running water heater is nothing short of a gift. When planning a water heater installation project, one of the factors to take into consideration is the cost of the installation. It costs $400 to $900 to install a 40-50 gallon water heater with a tank, depending on the size of the unit. The cost of installing a tankless water heater typically ranges between $1,470 and $2,500 in most cases.
Tank vs. Tankless Systems
Even though some plumbing contractors in Alpharetta feel that tankless heaters are more energy efficient than traditional heaters, many people believe that they are not as advantageous as they are promoted. A tankless water heater might cost as much as $2500 to install, depending on the model. A tank water heater is reasonably affordable (up to $900 installed), and it can be installed quickly. Tankless systems are quite tough to keep up to date. Despite the fact that homes that utilize these systems claim savings of $70-$80 per year, it takes such households several years to recuperate the difference in the original investment.
These heaters are generally simple to maintain, and they offer hot water more rapidly than their tankless counterparts, saving you time and money.
Plumbers often bill between $45 and $65 per hour. In most circumstances, a plumber can complete the installation of a water heater in a single day (6-8 hours). You should anticipate to pay anything from $270 and $520 for this service. Water heaters that are difficult to access may require an additional 2 to 3 hours of installation time.
Type of Water Heater
Natural gas water heaters, propane water heaters, electric water heaters, and solar water heater systems are some of the most common types of water heater systems available on the market. Natural gas systems are well-known for being affordable ($500-$700 per system). For a natural gas water heater replacement in Alpharetta, you should budget between $400 and $550 dollars. Installing a new natural gas water heater system can cost you between $1,500 and $2,300 on average, depending on your location.
Although the average cost of installing an electric water heater is between $350 and $450, the initial cost might reach $500 if the installation is complicated due to structural issues.
If you wish to replace an old water heater, you should budget an additional $500 to the entire cost. Purchasing new piping will be necessary if your existing water heater pipe is broken or not compatible with the new system. New piping will cost between $8 and $10 per linear foot. Check with your plumbing contractor in Alpharetta to see whether you are required to obtain permits for a new water heater installation. Fletch Barney is the final stop in your hunt for a plumbing specialist. We have earned a reputation as one of the most dependable plumbing companies in Alpharetta.
Whether you are experiencing a water heater problem in Alpharetta or want sewage line repair services in Alpharetta, we have you covered. Call us at 770-333-3031 if you’d like to speak with a professional about your project.