DIY Water Heater Installation
Time A busy day of work Complexity IntermediateCost$101–250
When your water heater begins to leak, you must act quickly to have it repaired or replaced. We’ll teach you how to set up your own natural gas water heater in less than a day’s time. Even if you do not require a new water heater at this time, it is likely that you will require one within the next few years. Water heaters typically have a lifespan of seven to fifteen years. If yours is beginning to show signs of wear, this post is also for you. If you’re familiar with basic equipment and have a little expertise soldering copper, replacing a water heater shouldn’t be too tough.
- Water and gas piping
- Discharge pipe
- Pipe thread compound
- Pressure relief valve
- Solder. Ventilation pipe and connections
- Pressure relief valve.
Getting Started Installing Your New Hot Water Tank
Water and gas piping; Discharge pipe; Fittings; Pipe thread compound; Pressure relief valve; Solder. Ventilation pipe and connections.
Water Heater Parts and Breakdown
- Discharge pipe
- Pipe thread compound
- Pressure relief valve
- Venting pipe and connections
- Water and gas piping
When to get a new water heater
When the tank of your water heater leaks, your water heater is out of commission. An indication that your water heater needs to be replaced is a gradual drop beneath the unit, which commonly manifests itself as a trail of discolored water. This indicates that the steel tank has corroded through and will be unable to be repaired. Other symptoms, such as little or no hot water, are typically indicative of other water heater repair issues that may be resolved by you. If you notice a drop, make a plan to get the water heater replaced as soon as possible.
- New water heaters are sent with detailed installation instructions as well as several cautions to ensure that the gas, electrical, and other connections are handled properly.
- However, you should be aware that you will be dealing with natural gas, propane, or electricity, all of which are potentially harmful.
- And, after you’re finished, get your work examined.
- You should explain to your local plumbing inspector how you want to install your new connections, including the sorts of materials you intend to use.
Figure A: Gas Water Heater Details
Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family See the Additional Information section at the end of this article for instructions on how to print this image.
Figure B: Connections for Steel and Plastic Pipe
Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family Water supply pipes in many residences are made of galvanized steel or polyvinyl chloride (CPVC). Replaceable galvanized steel pipes are quite difficult to come by. Using our photo series, we propose that you return the pipes to their original tees and screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple before finishing the connections with copper. Plastic tubing should be kept at least 6 inches away from the vent and tank due to the possibility of heat accumulation. Using a specific connection, you may make the transition from plastic to copper.
Flexible copper connectors are less difficult to install than solid copper connectors, which is especially important when the existing pipes and tank inlets do not match up.
However, they are not permitted by all local ordinances. If yours does, take extra care not to pinch or kink them when handling them. It’s possible that you’ll receive a leak.
Project step-by-step (12)
Turn off the gas to the water heater by twisting the shutdown valve a quarter turn away from the water heater. When the handle is turned off, it should be at a straight angle to the pipe. Also, turn off the main water supply and drain the pipes by opening a tap on the lowest floor of the building. Step No. 2
Drain the water in the tank
Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and use it to drain the water that has accumulated in the tank. The water will be boiling hot, so proceed with caution! With a pair of wrenches, disconnect the gas line at the neighboring union and remove the pipe from the gas control valve with a pipe wrench to complete the task.
Sign Up For Our Newsletter
Complete your do-it-yourself tasks like an expert! Become a subscriber to our newsletter! Do It Right the First Time, and Do It Yourself! Step number three.
Cut off the water lines
The vent pipe should be moved to the side once it has been unscrewed from the vent hood. After that, using a tube cutter, cut the hot and cold water lines. For galvanized pipe, remove the unions and, if you have them, remove the nuts on the flexible connections as well. Move the old water heater to the side of the room. Step number four.
Attach the relief valve
Teflon tape should be used to seal the threads of the new temperature and pressure relief valve (three turns). With a pipe wrench, tighten it inside the tank until it is completely sealed. Glue a copper discharge pipe to the wall (see Fig. A for routing details). Step number five.
Attach pipe assemblies
Solder fresh copper adapters to 6-in. lengths of 3/4-in. copper pipe and screw the assemblies into the hot water outlet and cold water inlet ports on the top of the tank’s tank’s tank’s tank. Make use of short, plastic-lined nipples to protect your pipes from galvanic corrosion, especially if you have hard water or if they are required by your local building standards. Step 6: Organize your thoughts and feelings about the situation.
Attach the water lines
Slide the new water heater into position, recut or lengthen the old tubing to connect it to the new, and solder the tubing together using copper slip couplings to complete the installation. If the tubing does not line up properly, use pairs of 45-degree elbows to adjust the alignment of the lines. Step 7 – Organize your time and resources.
Reattach the vent
Reconnect the vent if necessary. Place it securely over the draft hood and secure it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws to hold it in place. Prepare the holes by drilling them beforehand. Before turning at the first elbow, the vent should rise at least 12 inches vertically from the floor. In this eighth step, you will learn how to use a comma to separate the words “and” and “and not.”
Use two wrenches to attach the gas line
Reconnect the vent if it is not already connected! Place it securely over the draft hood and secure it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws to hold it in position. Prepare the holes by drilling them. Before turning at the first elbow, the vent should rise at least 12 inches vertically. In this eighth step, you will learn how to use a comma to separate two words that are similar in meaning.
Check for backdrafting
The majority of water heaters rely on a natural airflow to carry combustion emissions up the chimney and out of the building. If the draft does not operate, the fumes, which may contain lethal carbon monoxide, will be released into your home and cause you to become sick. Check the draft when you’ve finished installing everything. Close all of your external doors and windows, and put on the exhaust fans in your kitchen and bathroom. Continue to run a hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in your water heater come to life.
Ideally, the smoke should be drawn upward through the vent pipe. If the smoke does not draw, this indicates that the burner’s fumes are not escaping. Turn off the gas supply to the water heater and contact a certified plumber to diagnose and remedy the problem. Step number ten.
Check for leaks
Check for leaks by turning on the gas and squeezing a 50-50 combination of dishwashing liquid and water over the connection points. If there are bubbles in the mixture, you have a leak. Joints that are leaking should be tightened or reconnected. When you’re finished, wipe the joints down with a clean cloth. Make an appointment with the plumbing inspector to have them go at your work. Follow the how-to instructions that are included with the photographs to ensure that the connections are secure.
Light the pilot light
The pilot light should be turned on in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. (When using an electric water heater, turn on the electricity at the main panel after your work has been checked by the electrical inspector). Once you’ve finished, adjust the temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit according to the installation instructions. The pilot light in the new water heater should be lit, then the temperature setting should be adjusted.
Installation Details for Electric Water Heaters
At your main electrical panel, turn off all power to your water heater, then turn it back on. After that, empty the water heater in the same manner as you would a gas water heater. As soon as the water heater has been drained, separate the electrical wires from the screw terminals under the access panel, which is normally situated towards the top of the water heater. To handle all of the electrical wiring, you should engage an electrician if you don’t have any prior knowledge with it. When it comes to wiring the new water heater, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
- x 4-in.
- metal electrical box on the wall or ceiling near the water heater, route the old wires to the box, and then run a new length of armored cable or electrical conduit to the water heater to complete the installation.
- The circuit should also have a shutdown switch that is visible from the vicinity of the water heater.
- You’ll almost certainly require a permit.
- Aluminum wire needs specific care and handling.
- This wiring is a dull gray color, rather than the drab orange color that is characteristic of copper wiring.
How to Dispose of a Water Heater
In this video lesson, Jeff Gorton, an editor at The Family Handyman, will show you how to remove and dispose of a water heater in the proper manner. He will also demonstrate a simple method of transporting a water heater out of your home, even if you are working on your own.
These tips will make your work go faster and easier:
- To avoid modifying the length of your water, gas, or electrical lines, take note of the height of your existing water heater and get a new one that is the same height
- On older water heaters, the drain valve (Photo 2) frequently becomes clogged. Please be patient if the water drains slowly. WARNING: The temperature is really high! TIP: Turn off your water heater two hours before you want to use it to enable the water to cool. Water heaters are around 150 pounds in weight. When you’re moving the old one out and wheeling the new one in, you’ll need a strong partner or a dolly to assist you. Ordinarily, garbage collection agencies charge approximately $25 to remove the old one. Before you begin, go to a plumbing supply or hardware store, or a home center, and purchase the equipment and materials seen below. Check the sizes of the water supply pipes (the majority will be 3/4 in., as shown in our photographs) and purchase the fittings that are the proper size. If you have everything you need, you should be able to complete the work in four to six hours (provided there are no major problems!). This safety mechanism, which controls tank pressure and prevents it from bursting, is located in the tank’s pressure relief valve assembly (Photo 4). It is necessary to include a fresh one with each installation. The discharge pipe must be kept clear of impediments in order for the valve to function correctly (see Fig. A). Use 3/4-in. plastic-lined nipples (about $2 each
- Photo 5 and Fig. A) to attach other metals, mainly copper tubing to the steel tank, in areas where the water is highly mineralized or where it is needed by municipal laws. This has the effect of slowing rusting. In order to avoid heating the tank itself during soldering, solder the copper fittings before screwing them to the tank (Photo 5)
- Slip couplings should be used to link the existing and new water lines (Photo 6). (Photo 6). They do not have an internal stop, in contrast to normal couplings. Alternatively, you may slip them on, align the copper tubing, then slide them back and center them over the junction
- However, the new inlets and outlets on the tank don’t always line up with the old supply lines, and vice versa. If required, solder in a pair of 45-degree fittings to ensure that each line is offset. While you’re doing it, you should also replace the old cutoff valve with a new ball valve (Photo 6). The diameter of the vents is determined by the amount of heat produced by the water heater. In order to achieve the ideal draft, you may need to raise or reduce the ventilation size. CAUTION: If you’re not sure whether or not your chimney has a liner, consult with a plumbing inspector. Make gas connections using solid steel pipe (Photo 8) or soft copper tubing with flare fittings (Fig. A). Both are more dependable and less expensive than flexible stainless steel connections, which are not usually allowed in some applications. For the same reasons, rigid copper water supply lines should be used rather than flexible copper water supply lines
- If your water heater replacement is located in a location where leaking might cause damage to the floor or other elements of the home, lay a pan of an appropriate size beneath it (metal for gas water heaters). a drain tube that connects to a home drain or another suitable site must be installed in the pan (outdoors where permitted). If a leak might cause damage to the flooring, the discharge tube for the temperature and pressure relief valves must also connect to a drain. If routing is a problem, consult with your local plumbing inspector about possible solutions. Special straps should be used to secure your water heater to the wall if you reside in an earthquake-prone location (Fig. A
- Available at plumbing stores and home centers). If they are necessary, your plumbing inspector will inform you of this. Ensure that the new water temperature setting does not exceed 120 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid scorching
Water Heater Maintenance: How to Extend the Life of Your Hot Water Heater How to Repair a Leaking Water Heater Water Heater Installation Instructions on how to replace the TPR valve on a water heater Solar Water Heater Made at Home How to Repair or Replace Water Heater Dip Tubes That Are Defective How to Flush a Water Heater (with Pictures) The Process of Purchasing a New Water Heater 7 Myths About Tankless Water Heaters That You Should Never Believe The Advantages and Disadvantages of Tankless Water Heaters
How to Install an Electric Water Heater
Installing a new electric water heater can allow you to save both money and electricity. How to do it is demonstrated in our video and step-by-step instructions. Please keep in mind that product pricing, availability, and item numbers may differ from market to market.
Before You Begin
Examine your water heater to see whether it need replacement or if routine maintenance would suffice. There might be a problem with the heating element or another type of maintenance issue if you are not getting hot water. Before committing to a complete replacement, conduct a brief maintenance inspection. If you have water on the floor or on top of the unit (as opposed to water leaking from a supply line above the unit), you’ll most likely need to replace your water heater as soon as possible.
A excellent time to think about upgrading or reducing your electric water heater is when your family’s size has increased or decreased.
If you’re not confident in your ability to complete water heater installation, hire a professional.
A decrease in pressure reduces the stress placed on plumbing systems and helps to increase the lifespan of appliances and fixtures.
The water pressure in your house is critical for all of the equipment that use water. A decrease in pressure reduces the stress placed on plumbing systems and helps to increase the lifespan of appliances and fixtures. Check the water pressure in your house by attaching a pressure gauge to an exterior spigot. The optimal PSI ranges from 50 to 60 PSI. if the water pressure in your house is more than 80 PSI, use the pressure-reducing valve located near the main water shut-off to decrease the pressure.
If you don’t already have a pressure-reducing valve in your house, a professional can install one for you.
Decide the type of expansion tank you’ll require. It is possible to reduce surplus pressure in the lines of a closed system using thermal expansion tanks. A 2-gallon expansion tank can be used with water heaters that hold up to 50 gallons of water. For water heaters that hold up to 100 gallons of water, a 5-gallon expansion tank should be used. For for size information, see the manufacturer’s instructions. In most cases, the expansion tank is connected to the cold-water supply pipe near or above the water heater.
They simply slot into the pipe without the need for soldering.
Soldering paste should be applied to both the pipe and the fittings before assembling.
After heating the fitting, solder the connection together. In order for an electric water heater installation to be functional, the pressure in the expansion tank must equal the pressure in the main water supply. Increase the pressure by using a hand air pump, or decrease it by depressing the valve.
Removing the Old Water Heater
The following steps will walk you through the process of installing an electric water heater. When transporting a water heater, employ a helper, an appliance dolly, or a hand truck to ensure that the device is not damaged.
An electric water heater installation procedure is described in detail in the following phases. PrecautionWhen transporting a water heater, enlist the assistance of a friend, an appliance dolly, or a hand truck.
How to: Install a Hot Water Heater with SharkBite
The procedures outlined here will walk you through the process of installing an electric water heater. CautionWhen relocating a water heater, enlist the assistance of a friend, an appliance dolly, or a hand truck.
- Working in confined places
- Simple connections between water heaters and pre-existing pipes that do not line up
- The ability to attach the water heater to practically any type of pipe material is essential.
In cramped quarters, do your work The ability to connect existing pipes that do not line up with water heaters is simple. The ability to attach the water heater to nearly any type of pipe material is essential.
Braided vs. Corrugated Water Heater Hoses
SharkBite provides both braided and corrugated flexible water heater hoses, as well as ball valves for use with or without a heater. On the supply side of the water heater, ball valves on the water heater hoses offer a shutoff. To determine if hard piping to your water heater is necessary, check with your local plumbing regulations. When rigid pipe is not an option, stainless steel corrugated connectors can be utilized as a substitute.
Installing a SharkBite Water Heater Hose
- First and foremost, determine the pipe material. Measure the distance between the hot and cold supply lines and the water heater in order to select the appropriate length connection
- Et cetera Make sure to cut the pipe as cleanly as straight as you possibly can. Check to see that the pipe is clear of scratches and other debris. If you’re working with copper pipe, be sure there are no sharp edges or burrs on the pipe. Once this is completed, use your SharkBiteDeburrGauge tool to measure and indicate the insertion depth on your pipe. Hand tighten the female connector onto the pipe nipple and then tighten with a quarter turn using a wrench, being careful not to overtighten the connector. Is it necessary for me to use thread tape? No. SharkBite water heater connections employ a gasket to seal onto the nipples of the water heater pipe, so thread tape is not necessary. To install the fitting, push it all the way to the mark you just created. Then repeat the process on the hot water exit side
- Finally, switch on your water and double-check the connections to your hot water heater. If you detect water dripping from the pipe nipple connection, use a wrench to tighten the connection even further.
Installing a hot water heater using SharkBite is a quick, efficient, and dependable process. The field-proven design of our hot water heater connectors is simple, secure, and adaptable enough to meet the needs of any installation project, no matter how complicated.
A. O. Smith Water Heaters at Lowes
Back It is recommended that you read the printed instructions that came with your water heater in addition to the material on this web site. Read and observe any warning labels on the water heater, as well as the safety recommendations in the printed owner’s handbook, to limit the danger of property damage, serious injury, or death.
- Toolkit includes: box cutter, marker, thermometer, non-contact circuit tester, paper towels or shop rags, pipe cutter, pipe joint compound or plumber’s tape, and other miscellaneous items. nutscrew and/or Phillips screwdriver and wrench (quarter-inch diameter)
- If you have copper pipes, you should consider purchasing an Electric Water Heater Installation Kit (available at hardware shops and home centers), which includes compression fittings that do not require soldering. When installing plastic pipe in a residence, utilize threaded connections that are appropriate for the type of plastic pipe being used: CPVC or PEX (cross-linked polyethylene). Use of PVC or iron pipe is not recommended. Valve for shutting off the system
- Thermostatic mixing valves are used in many applications.
Step3:Open Box and Remove the Water Heater
- Cut along the dotted lines on the water heater box to make it smaller.
Step4:Read the Printed Installation Instructions and Labels
- Before you begin, make sure you have read the printed installation instructions, including all of the safety cautions. Ensure that you have read and understood all of the labels on the water heater. Ensure that the installation conforms with applicable national, state, and local building, plumbing, and electrical codes by following the steps outlined in this section. Check the data plate on the water heater to check that the voltage, wire size, and circuit breaker settings in the residence are appropriate for this water heater. Ensure that the wire sizes, types, and connections all conform with all applicable local rules and standards before proceeding. Follow NFPA-70 and the current edition of the National Electric Code (NEC) if there are no local codes in effect. NOTICE: If you are unsure that you will be able to perform the installation correctly and securely, obtain assistance from a skilled individual.
Step5:Install the Drain Pan
- Install an appropriate drain pan that is connected to a proper drainage system. Make sure that the drain is installed such that the water level is confined to a maximum depth of 1-3/4″. At least two inches wider than the diameter of the water heater is required for a proper drain pan.
Step6:Install the Water Heater in the Drain Pan
- Place the water heater in the drain pan, being careful not to damage the drain pan
- And WARNING: Water heaters are quite hefty. If you don’t have an appliance dolly, it’s best to have two or more people help you remove or install a water heater. Failure to do so may result in a back injury or another type of harm. Check to see that there is sufficient access to and space around the water heater for future maintenance.
Step7:Install the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve
- Almost all T P Relief Valves (Temperature and Pressure Relief Valves) are fitted at the manufacture. It is necessary to place your T P Relief Valve in the aperture labeled “T P Relief Valve” if it is included in a separate carton. Use the new T P Relief Valve that was included with your new water heater to relieve pressure. Do not use the previous one again
- WARNING! If your water heater did not come with a T P Relief Valve (as well as a discharge pipe), install one (as well as a discharge pipe) in accordance with the printed installation instructions to avoid serious injury or death as a result of an explosion.
Step8:Install the Discharge Pipe
- Install the discharge pipe in the appropriate location. The discharge pipe should have an internal diameter of at least 3/4″ and should be slanted to allow for efficient drainage. Install it so that the entire drainage system can function
- The discharge pipe must be able to endure temperatures of 250°F (121°C) without distorting. Only copper, PEX, or CPVC pipe should be used. Use of any other form of pipe, such as PVC, iron, flexible plastic pipe, or any other sort of hose, is strictly prohibited. Finish the discharge pipe at least 1″ above a floor drain or outside, with a maximum of 6″ above the drain or outside. Instead of draining the discharge pipe into the drain pan, pipe it to a suitable drain instead. If you live in a cold region, you should connect the discharge line within the building to a suitable drain. Drains on the outside of the house might freeze and clog the drain line. It is not recommended to install any valves or other restrictions between the tank and the T P Relief Valve. It is not permissible to cap, block, plug, or insert any valve between the T P Relief Valve and the discharge pipe’s termination. Installing a reducer in the discharge pipe is not recommended.
Step9:Install Shutoff Valve
- Install a manual shutdown valve in the cold water line that serves the water heater if one hasn’t previously been set up in that location. It is best to locate the shutdown valve next to the water heater so that it is easily reached. Only utilize a full-flow ball or gate valve that is suitable with potable water
- The placement and piping of your water heater will determine how you complete this stage. Consult the installation manual for further information.
Step10:Install Thermostatic Mixing Valves
- Install a manual shutdown valve in the cold water line that supplies the water heater if one hasn’t previously been set up in the system. It is best to locate the shutdown valve close to the water heater so that it is easily accessible when needed. Utilize only a full-flow ball or gate valve that is suitable with potable water
- The position of your water heater and the pipes to it will determine how you complete this step
- Seek advice from the installation manual
Step11:Flexible Connectors are Easier to Work With
- When connecting the water pipes to the water heater, compression fittings are used to make it easier to remove the water heater for servicing or replacement. To connect the copper pipes to the water heater when soldering copper pipes, utilize dielectric unions to connect the pipes to the water heater
- It is possible to purchase installation kits that include flexible stainless steel connections and compression fittings that do not require soldering to be installed. Furthermore, many flexible connections are equipped with built-in dielectric fits. Ensure that the fittings you use are appropriate for the kind of pipe in your property. Pipes made of copper, PEX, or CPVC should be used. Use of iron or PVC pipe is not recommended. NOTICE: Do not solder pipes while they are connected to a water heater or while they are in use. The water heater’s input and output connections contain nonmetallic elements that might be harmed if they are not properly maintained.
Step12:Measure Pipes Carefully
- Use the installation kit with flexible connections to measure both water lines if you are using a flexible connector installation kit.
Step13:Cut Water Pipes to Length
- Reduce the length of both water pipes, but leave them a few inches longer than the specification. You may always shorten them if the situation calls for it.
Step14:Install Compression Fittings
- Tighten compression fittings on both water lines after they have been installed. Take a look at this little video to learn how it’s done.
Step15:Pipe Joint Compound or Plumber’s Tape
- Only use pipe joint compound or plumber’s tape on threaded connections
- Do not use it anywhere else.
Step16:Connect the Water Supply
- 3/4-inch hose is used to connect the cold water supply “To connect the output connection on the water heater marked “C” (cold), use an NPT threaded adaptor. 3/4-inch hose is used to connect the hot water supply “To connect the output connection on the water heater marked “H” (HOT), use an NPT threaded adaptor.
Step17:Check the Water Pipes
- Examine and confirm that the hot and cold water pipes in the residence are connected to the appropriate hot and cold water fittings on the water heater
Step18:Dry the Pipe Connections
- It is necessary to dry the pipe connections in order to detect any drips or leaks.
Step19:Turn the Cold Water Supply ON
- It is necessary to dry the pipe connections in order to see any drips or leaks.
Step20:Remove the Aerator
Dry the pipe connections thoroughly so that any drips or leaks will be readily seen;
- Dry the pipe connections so that any drips or leaks will be visible
Step21:Open a Hot Water Faucet
- It is necessary to dry the pipe connections in order to detect any drips or leaks.
Step22:Close the Hot Water Faucet and Replace the Aerator
- Close the hot water faucet and reinstall the aerator when all of the air has been removed from the tank.
Step23:Check for Leaks
- Check for leaks at the input and outlet connections, as well as in the water pipes. Tighten the fittings and fix any leaks that may have occurred. It is almost always the case that leaks occur at connections and not at the tank
Step24:Check for Electrical Power
- Check the power lines using a non-contact circuit tester to ensure that the power has been turned off completely. WARNING! Working on an electrified circuit has the potential to cause serious damage or death due to electrical shock. Check the cables with a volt meter or circuit tester to ensure that the power has been turned off
Step25:Install Wiring in a Conduit
- Install wire in a conduit that has been authorized (if necessary by local codes)
Step26:Remove the Junction Box Cover
- Disconnect the electrical connection box located on the top of the water heater by removing the lid.
Step27:Insert Conduit Connector
- Insert the conduit connector and power wires into the junction box cover through the opening in the cover. Strain-relief nut should be attached.
Step28:Connect the Ground Wire
- Make a hole in the junction box lid and feed power wires and the conduit connection through it. Strain-relief nut should be attached
Step29:Connect the Home’s Power Wires
- Insert the conduit connection and power wires through the opening in the junction box lid
- This will complete the installation. Fix the strain-relief nut in place.
Step30:Replace the Junction Box Cover
- Replace the junction box lid and fasten it with the screws that were provided
- And NOTE: Make certain that the cover is properly attached to prevent the risk of fire and electric shock.
Step31:Install Strain Relief
- Repair or replace the junction box lid with the screws that were provided. Keep the cover in place at all times to prevent fires and electric shocks from occurring
Step32:Turn Power ON
- Using the screws provided, replace the junction box lid. NOTE: Make certain that the cover is properly attached to prevent the risk of fire and electric shock
Step33:Install Insulation on the Water Pipes
- Water pipes should be insulated (or heated using heat tape), especially if the interior installation location is subjected to cold temperatures. Insulating the hot water line might help you save money on your energy bills.
Step34:Adjusting the Temperature
Water pipes should be insulated (or heated using heat tape), especially if the interior installation location is vulnerable to cold temperatures. Energy efficiency may be improved by insulating the hot water line.
- Thermal protection has been provided by factory setting the thermostat(s) on this water heater at about 120°F to limit the danger of scald injury. In order to supply hot water for automated dishwashers or washing machines, to increase the capacity of the hot water heater, and to limit bacterial development, you may want to raise the temperature higher. WARNING! Because of the increased danger of scorching when the water heater’s thermostat(s) is set higher than 120°F, it is advised to install Thermostatic Mixing Valves at each point of use to lessen the risk of scalding
- However, this is not required. Inspect and adjust Thermostatic Mixing Valves as needed at various places of usage around your home (for example, the bathtub faucet, shower, and lavatory sink)
- If you really want to modify the temperature, you may do so by following the instructions in Standard Electric Troubleshooting: Adjusting the Temperature.
How To Install An Electric Water Heater
A water heater, particularly an electric kind, is a very basic piece of equipment. Unheated water enters the tank by one of its sides. Several electric resistance components that stretch from the edge of the tank into the middle of the water are responsible for heating the water in the tank. The water then leaves from the other side of the tank when the demand is there. Unfortunately, this ease of use does not extend to the process of installing the software. While not difficult, installing an electric water heater does include some plumbing and electrical work, which may be enough to deter some homeowners from taking on the project.
Compared to other frequent home pastimes like refinishing furniture or managing a productive vegetable or flower garden, the skills necessary for this task are not nearly as difficult.
This is an excellent method of reducing the number of fittings you require as well as the number of journeys to the hardware shop to get the items you have forgotten.
If all you’re doing is replacing a tank in the same location, you’ll have even less work on your hands.
Keep in mind to integrate any particular manufacturer instructions into your preparations, especially if failing to do so may result in the product warranty being voided.
Step 1: Build a Platform
It is a fairly easy equipment to operate a water heater, particularly one that is electric in nature. The tank is filled with unheated water from one side. Several electric resistance devices that stretch from the edge of the tank into the middle of the water are responsible for heating the water. The water subsequently leaves from the other side of the tank when the demand is met by the flow of water. Unfortunately, this ease of use does not extend to the process of installing the product itself.
- There’s no reason for it to be that way.
- First, sketch up a rough plan for your installation.
- As part of a broader renovation project, we were responsible for replacing a tank and relocating it.
- First, remove the tank from its packaging and thoroughly review all of the product material that was included.
Step 2: Center the Tank
A water heater, particularly an electric kind, is a pretty basic piece of equipment. Unheated water enters the tank from one of the sides. Several electric resistance components that stretch from the edge of the tank into the middle of the water heat the water. The water then leaves from the other side of the tank when it is required. Unfortunately, this ease of use does not extend to the process of installing it. While not difficult, installing an electric water heater does include some plumbing and electrical work, which may be enough to deter some individuals from doing it.
When compared to other frequent homeowner activities such as refinishing furniture or managing a thriving vegetable or flower garden, the skills necessary for this job are not nearly as difficult.
This is an excellent method of reducing the number of fittings you require and the number of journeys to the hardware shop to get the items you have forgotten.
If all you’re doing is replacing a tank in the same location, you’ll have even less work to perform.
Remove the tank from its packaging and thoroughly study all of the product information that came with it. Keep in mind to integrate any particular manufacturer instructions into your preparations, especially if failing to do so might result in the product warranty being voided.
Step 3: Soldering Basics
Soldering copper tubing and fittings is one of the most straightforward skills to learn in the construction industry. To complete this project, you’ll need only a propane or Mapp gas torch (we recommend the Mapp gas torch because it burns hotter and melts lead-free solder more effectively), a tubing cutter, several pads of steel wool and a wire brush to clean the ends of the fittings. You’ll also need some lead-free solder, which you can buy at any hardware store. All of these goods can be found at most local hardware stores and home improvement centers on a regular basis.
- To begin, cut a 6- to 8-inch-long piece of 3/4-inch-diameter tubing for the cold water entrance line on the tank, depending on how long you want it to be.
- Following that, use a piece of steel wool to clean the end of the tube.
- Then, using some soldering flux, cover the cleaned area and set the item away for a while.
- All you have to do is put the brush into the fitting’s end and twirl it till the surface is clean.
- To begin heating the joint, switch on the torch and adjust the flame so that the inner blue flame is approximately 3/4 of an inch long on the inside.
- You don’t have to move the flame around the joint to get this result.
- As soon as the flux has disappeared, apply a little amount of solder to the top of the junction.
If this is the case, simply pull off the solder, keep the junction heated, and try again.
This indicates that the joint is completely filled.
Make careful you use thick gloves to avoid getting burned.
Clean all of the tube ends and fittings as you did previously, add some flux, and solder the pieces together to complete the installation.
Insert the tape in the tape dispenser in a clockwise orientation.
Then, using a nut, secure the two pieces of the union together securely in their respective positions.
After that, clean and flux a shutdown valve for the cold side of the system, slip it over the tubing end, and solder it in place to complete the installation. For this application, we utilized a ball valve, but a gate valve with sweat fittings on both ends might easily be used instead.
Step 4: T P Valve
Temperature and pressure relief valves (also known as T P valves) serve as a safety measure by creating a channel for water to escape from a storage tank when the pressure inside the tank reaches an unsafe level for any cause. Ensure that the valve you choose is rated at the same capacity as your hot water heater. The product literature for each will provide detailed information on what is necessary. Our solution consisted simply in matching the ANSI (American National Standards Institute) ratings of both products.
- Take 4 in.
- As soon as you have completed your measurement, remove the temperature and pressure relief valves.
- Replace the valve in the tank by tightening it with an adjustable wrench.
- Cut the relief valve tube to the desired length and solder a male adaptor to one end of the tube to complete the installation.
- Insert the drain tube into the relief valve and secure it with a wrench.
Step 5: Electrical Power
A separate 220-volt circuit is usually required for a water heater, and in our instance, a 30-amp circuit breaker as well as a 10/2 (with ground) circuit wire were required. These were already in place on our project site, but the cable terminated roughly 20 feet distant from the placement of our new storage tank. Using a joist-mounted junction box, we ran new cable to the new tank site by bored holes through the middle of the overhead joists and extending the wire down the side of the joists where it was handy.
- To obtain access to the electrical wiring in your tank, begin by removing the top-most covering plate.
- To accomplish this, look for a knockout on the top of the tank and use a screwdriver and hammer to force it down.
- Insert the threaded end of a conduit connector into the knockout hole and tighten it in place with the connection nut to secure it in place.
- The free end of the cable should be inserted into the pipe’s uppermost section and pulled out the lowermost portion.
- Attach the ground wire from the cable to the grounding screw located inside the tank opening and tighten it down with the connection screw to secure it in place.
- After that, just replace the covering plate and your installation is complete.
- Keep in mind to close the drain valve before turning on the water supply.
- If you switch on the elements before the tank is completely filled with water, they will be destroyed and will need to be replaced immediately.
This material was generated and maintained by a third party and imported onto this website in order to assist users in providing their email addresses for further consideration. You may be able to discover further information on this and other related items at the website piano.io.
Electric Water Heater Installation: Step-by-Step Guide
If you’re the DIY kind, installing an electric water heater isn’t quite as complicated as it may appear at first glance. However, before starting the project, you should keep in mind that you will be required to perform some basic plumbing and electrical tasks. Even if these kind of jobs make you feel uncomfortable, there are several trustworthy companies that you may hire to install your new water heater. Nevertheless, if you’re up to the task, you may save money by doing it yourself. Generally speaking, electric water heaters have a life span of 8 to 10 years before they need to be replaced.
If you haven’t previously done so, you should troubleshoot the leak before investing in a new water heater.
Except if you discover that the leak is coming from the tank itself, you will have no choice but to replace the water heater.
Preparing to Install an Electric Water Heater
Having concluded that you want a new water heater, you may like to consult our buyers guide to assist you in selecting the most appropriate model for your needs. Furthermore, if you elect to install the water heater yourself, you will be responsible for removing your old water heater and properly disposing of it. Find Local Plumbing Professionals
Tools and Supplies
Installing an electric water heater is far less difficult than installing a gas water heater, but it is still a significant undertaking. Our recommendation is to hire a professional to complete the installation if you are unfamiliar with electrical and plumbing. In addition, they will often dispose of your old water heater for you as part of the installation process. The following are step-by-step instructions for installing your electric water heater:
Disconnect the Electricity
First, we’ll have a look at what to do. Turn off the electricity to your water heater at the circuit breaker panel located near your water heater. Check the wiring of the water heater using a voltage tester to ensure that the device is turned off. Although it is not discussed in the video below, it is always a good idea to double-check that the water heater is not receiving any power after turning it off at the circuit breaker before doing any work on it. Start by turning on a hot water faucet and letting the water flow until it is cold.
The cold water feed to the water heater should be turned off (located at the top of the unit).
Drain the tank by opening the valve and venting it to the outside (or to a floor drain, or even into buckets).
You may also use the T P valve to your advantage.
Disconnect the Electrical
The next step is to disconnect the electrical cables from the water heater’s top. To begin, be certain that the circuit breaker in the breaker box has been switched off.
Then, before you begin, verify the wires with a voltage tester to ensure they are in good working order. Cap the wires and name them (or take a picture of them) so that there is no confusion when you are connecting your new water heater in the future.
Disconnect the Plumbing
Step 4Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the water heater. Copper plumbing may have been used in the installation of your water heater, and you may need to cut the pipes. If you need to cut the pipes, use a tubing (pipe) cutter and try to leave as much of the pipe as feasible intact as you can before cutting. If the discharge pipe from the T P valve is in good condition, you can remove it from the T P valve and reuse it on your new water heater.
Remove the Old Water Heater
Step 5: Using a dolly, move the old water heater out of the way after the tank is empty. Place the new tank in its proper location. It is recommended that the replacement tank be placed in a drain pan. Find out why. Make certain that your electrical supply will be sufficient to reach the tank. Check sure you have access to the panels and the drain valve in case you need to do maintenance.
Prepare the Plumbing Lines
The pipes will need to be prepared with a sandpaper cloth if your old water heater had copper plumbing and it was required to cut the pipes. Rub the ends of the pipes with the sandpaper cloth until they are gleaming brilliantly again. Find Local Plumbing Professionals
Connect the Electrical Wiring
In order to gain access to the electrical cables, remove the junction box cover in Step 7. Attach the ground wire to the green ground screw using a crimp connector. Wire connectors are used to join the other wires together by twisting them together. Make use of the prior wire connections as a reference and reconnect the wires in the same manner in which they were disconnected. Follow the directions on your label tags or the photo you took in Step 3. After that, reinstall the lid of the junction box.
Attach the Supply LinesTurn On the Water
In order to gain access to the electrical cables, remove the junction box cover in step 7. Using the green ground screw, connect the ground wire. By twisting them together and using wire connectors, you can join the rest of the wires. Take as a guide the wire connections that were made previously, and reconnect the wires in the same manner in which they were disconnected. In Step 3, you should refer to your label tags or the photo you took. Replacing the junction box cover should be your next step!
Attach the T P Discharge Pipe
Step 9Connect the discharge line to the T P valve and tighten it. The pipe’s end must be within 6 inches of the floor in order to function properly.
- Make use of a 3/4-inch male copper fitting. Paintpipe dope applied on the exterior of the fitting as well as the interior of the valve fittings. Tighten the fitting to the T P valve fitting once it has been attached. Remove the fitting from the pipe’s end and clean it
- Soldering flux should be painted on the inside of the male fitting and outside of the pipe. Fitting the pipe to the fitting is completed. To join the pipes, solder and a torch should be used.
Turn On the PowerBleed the Hot Water Lines
A 3/4-inch male copper fitting is recommended. Paint the exterior of the fitting and the interior of the valve fitting with paint pipe dope. The fitting should be attached to the P valve fitting and then tightened. Remove the fitting from the pipe’s end and clean it well. Soldering flux should be painted on the inside of the male fitting and outside of the pipe; The pipe should be connected to the fitting. The pipe should be connected using solder and a torch;
Bleed Hot Water Lines
Step 11Allow the hot water tap to run for a few minutes until it stops “sputtering” in order to expel the air trapped in the tank and piping system.
It may take many hours for the water in the tank to reach its maximum temperature. The temperature setting that is recommended is 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Let it sit for a couple of hours before checking the T P discharge pipe. If the pipe is dripping, it is possible that the pressure is too high.
Watch the Video
Repair and Installation of Water Heaters at the Lowest Possible Price Now is the time to call! Request Estimates from Pre-Approved Local Contractors
How Much Does Water Heater Installation Cost?
Water heaters are one of the most often used household appliances in households all over the world, especially in developing countries. In the winter, having a running water heater is nothing short of a gift. When planning a water heater installation project, one of the factors to take into consideration is the cost of the installation. It costs $400 to $900 to install a 40-50 gallon water heater with a tank, depending on the size of the unit. The cost of installing a tankless water heater typically ranges between $1,470 and $2,500 in most cases.
Tank vs. Tankless Systems
Even though some plumbing contractors in Alpharetta feel that tankless heaters are more energy efficient than traditional heaters, many people believe that they are not as advantageous as they are promoted. A tankless water heater might cost as much as $2500 to install, depending on the model. A tank water heater is reasonably affordable (up to $900 installed), and it can be installed quickly. Tankless systems are quite tough to keep up to date. Despite the fact that homes that utilize these systems claim savings of $70-$80 per year, it takes such households several years to recuperate the difference in the original investment.
These heaters are generally simple to maintain, and they offer hot water more rapidly than their tankless counterparts, saving you time and money.
Plumbers often bill between $45 and $65 per hour. In most circumstances, a plumber can complete the installation of a water heater in a single day (6-8 hours). You should anticipate to pay anything from $270 and $520 for this service. Water heaters that are difficult to access may require an additional 2 to 3 hours of installation time.
Type of Water Heater
Natural gas water heaters, propane water heaters, electric water heaters, and solar water heater systems are some of the most common types of water heater systems available on the market. Natural gas systems are well-known for being affordable ($500-$700 per system). For a natural gas water heater replacement in Alpharetta, you should budget between $400 and $550 dollars. Installing a new natural gas water heater system can cost you between $1,500 and $2,300 on average, depending on your location.
Although the average cost of installing an electric water heater is between $350 and $450, the initial cost might reach $500 if the installation is complicated due to structural issues. Installing a water heater from the ground up might cost upwards of $5,000.
If you wish to replace an old water heater, you should budget an additional $500 to the entire cost. Purchasing new piping will be necessary if your existing water heater pipe is broken or not compatible with the new system. New piping will cost between $8 and $10 per linear foot. Check with your plumbing contractor in Alpharetta to see whether you are required to obtain permits for a new water heater installation. Fletch Barney is the final stop in your hunt for a plumbing specialist. We have earned a reputation as one of the most dependable plumbing companies in Alpharetta.
Call us at 770-333-3031 if you’d like to speak with a professional about your project.