How To Connect Water Heater

How to Install an Electric Water Heater

Installing a new electric water heater can allow you to save both money and electricity. How to do it is demonstrated in our video and step-by-step instructions. Please keep in mind that product pricing, availability, and item numbers may differ from market to market.

Before You Begin

Examine your water heater to see whether it need replacement or if routine maintenance would suffice. There might be a problem with the heating element or another type of maintenance issue if you are not getting hot water. Before committing to a complete replacement, conduct a brief maintenance inspection. If you have water on the floor or on top of the unit (as opposed to water leaking from a supply line above the unit), you’ll most likely need to replace your water heater as soon as possible.

A excellent time to think about upgrading or reducing your electric water heater is when your family’s size has increased or decreased.

If you don’t feel at ease with anything,

Water Pressure

The water pressure in your house is critical for all of the equipment that use water. A decrease in pressure reduces the stress placed on plumbing systems and helps to increase the lifespan of appliances and fixtures. Check the water pressure in your house by attaching a pressure gauge to an exterior spigot. The optimal PSI ranges from 50 to 60 PSI. if the water pressure in your house is more than 80 PSI, use the pressure-reducing valve located near the main water shut-off to decrease the pressure.

If you don’t already have a pressure-reducing valve in your house, a professional can install one for you.

Expansion Tank

Decide the type of expansion tank you’ll require. It is possible to reduce surplus pressure in the lines of a closed system using thermal expansion tanks. A 2-gallon expansion tank can be used with water heaters that hold up to 50 gallons of water. For water heaters that hold up to 100 gallons of water, a 5-gallon expansion tank should be used. For for size information, see the manufacturer’s instructions. In most cases, the expansion tank is connected to the cold-water supply pipe near or above the water heater.

They simply slot into the pipe without the need for soldering.

Soldering paste should be applied to both the pipe and the fittings before assembling.

When installing an electric water heater, it is necessary that the expansion tank pressure match the main tank pressure.

Removing the Old Water Heater

Decide the type of expansion tank you’ll require first. It is possible to reduce excessive pressure in the lines of a closed system using thermal expansion tanks. When used with a water heater that holds up to 50 gallons, a 2-gallon expansion tank will suffice. For water heaters up to 100 gallons, a 5-gallon expansion tank should be used. Sizing should be determined by the manufacturer’s guidelines. This tank connects to the cold-water supply pipe that is located near or above your water heater.

The fittings just slot into the pipe; there is no need to solder them in!

Soldering paste should be applied to both the pipe and the fittings before assembling the set of parts. To solder the connection, first heat the fitting and then press it together. The pressure in the expansion tank of an electric water heater must equal the pressure in the main tank.

Preventing Scalds

Even with the temperature gauge set at 120 degrees, the risk of scalds remains a possibility. Children, the elderly, and individuals with delicate skin are particularly at risk of developing skin cancer. Consider adding thermostatic mixing valves to keep people safe from being hurt. Installed at the point of use faucet, fixture, or appliance, a thermostatic mixing valve regulates both the volume and temperature of water by connecting to both the hot and cold water supply lines at the same location.

DIY Water Heater Installation

Time A busy day of work Complexity IntermediateCost$101–250

Introduction

When your water heater begins to leak, you must act quickly to have it repaired or replaced. We’ll teach you how to set up your own natural gas water heater in less than a day’s time. Even if you do not require a new water heater at this time, it is likely that you will require one within the next few years. Water heaters typically have a lifespan of seven to fifteen years. If yours is beginning to show signs of wear, this post is also for you. If you’re familiar with basic equipment and have a little expertise soldering copper, replacing a water heater shouldn’t be too tough.

Tools Required

  • Water and gas piping
  • Discharge pipe
  • Fittings
  • Pipe thread compound
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Solder. Ventilation pipe and connections
  • Pressure relief valve.

Getting Started Installing Your New Hot Water Tank

In this example, we’re swapping out a natural gas water heater for an electric water heater. The processes for replacing a propane water heater are identical to those for replacing an electric water heater, and the steps for replacing both are comparable. In any event, when it comes to arranging a water heater replacement, it’s best to be cautious. Call your local department of inspections and inquire as to whether or not you require a permit. Also, be certain that your work is checked by a plumbing or electrical inspector.

Plumbers normally charge between $45 and $65 per hour and can complete the installation of a water heater in a day or as little as 6-8 hours.

Gas water heaters with particular venting systems, which are more costly, are also available.

Water Heater Parts and Breakdown

  • Fire pipe, cold water shutoff valve, draft diverter, temperature and pressure relief valve, overflow pipe, hot water outlet, anticorrosion anode rod, dip tube, elements, insulation, drain valve, thermostat or control valve, burner, thermocouple, gas supply valve, and more.

When to get a new water heater

When the tank of your water heater leaks, your water heater is out of commission. An indication that your water heater needs to be replaced is a gradual drop beneath the unit, which commonly manifests itself as a trail of discolored water. This indicates that the steel tank has corroded through and will be unable to be repaired. Other symptoms, such as little or no hot water, are typically indicative of other water heater repair issues that may be resolved by you. If you notice a drop, make a plan to get the water heater replaced as soon as possible.

New water heaters are sent with detailed installation instructions as well as several cautions to ensure that the gas, electrical, and other connections are handled properly.

The strategies and “real world” recommendations from various expert plumbers will be included in this article to round out the foundational knowledge. But keep in mind that you’ll be dealing with

Figure A: Gas Water Heater Details

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family See the Additional Information section at the end of this article for instructions on how to print this image.

Figure B: Connections for Steel and Plastic Pipe

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family Water supply pipes in many residences are made of galvanized steel or polyvinyl chloride (CPVC). Replaceable galvanized steel pipes are quite difficult to come by. Using our photo series, we propose that you return the pipes to their original tees and screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple before finishing the connections with copper. Plastic tubing should be kept at least 6 inches away from the vent and tank due to the possibility of heat accumulation. Using a specific connection, you may make the transition from plastic to copper.

Flexible copper connectors are less difficult to install than solid copper connectors, which is especially important when the existing pipes and tank inlets do not match up.

If yours does, take extra care not to pinch or kink them when handling them.

Project step-by-step (12)

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-Us. Galvanized steel or polyvinyl chloride (CPVC) water supply pipes are often seen in many residences. Replacement of galvanized steel pipes is a time-consuming endeavor. Using our photo series, we propose that you return the pipes to their original tees and screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple before connecting the pipes with copper. Plastic tubing should be kept at least 6 inches away from the vent and tank due to the possibility of heat accumulation in the material.

You can find it everywhere CPVC is marketed.

However, they are not permitted by all local ordinances.

Could be a possibility

Drain the water in the tank

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-Us Galvanized steel or polyvinyl chloride (CPVC) water supply pipes are seen in many residences. Galvanized steel pipes are extremely difficult to replace once they have been galvanized. We propose that you return the pipes to the nearest tee, screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple, and finish the connections with copper, as illustrated in our photo series. Plastic pipe should be kept at least 6 inches away from the vent and tank due to the possibility of heat accumulation in the pipe.

Flexible copper connectors are less difficult to install than solid copper connectors, which is especially important when the existing pipes and the tank inlets do not line up perfectly.

However, not all local codes permit them. If yours does, take extra care not to pinch or kink them when cleaning. You could do it.

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Complete your do-it-yourself tasks like an expert! Become a subscriber to our newsletter! Do It Right the First Time, and Do It Yourself! Step number three.

Cut off the water lines

The vent pipe should be moved to the side once it has been unscrewed from the vent hood. After that, using a tube cutter, cut the hot and cold water lines. For galvanized pipe, remove the unions and, if you have them, remove the nuts on the flexible connections as well. Move the old water heater to the side of the room. Step number four.

Attach the relief valve

Teflon tape should be used to seal the threads of the new temperature and pressure relief valve (three turns). With a pipe wrench, tighten it inside the tank until it is completely sealed. Glue a copper discharge pipe to the wall (see Fig. A for routing details). Step number five.

Attach pipe assemblies

Solder fresh copper adapters to 6-in. lengths of 3/4-in. copper pipe and screw the assemblies into the hot water outlet and cold water inlet ports on the top of the tank’s tank’s tank’s tank. Make use of short, plastic-lined nipples to protect your pipes from galvanic corrosion, especially if you have hard water or if they are required by your local building standards. Step 6: Organize your thoughts and feelings about the situation.

Attach the water lines

Slide the new water heater into position, recut or lengthen the old tubing to connect it to the new, and solder the tubing together using copper slip couplings to complete the installation. If the tubing does not line up properly, use pairs of 45-degree elbows to adjust the alignment of the lines. Step 7 – Organize your time and resources.

Reattach the vent

Reconnect the vent if necessary. Place it securely over the draft hood and secure it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws to hold it in place. Prepare the holes by drilling them beforehand. Before turning at the first elbow, the vent should rise at least 12 inches vertically from the floor. In this eighth step, you will learn how to use a comma to separate the words “and” and “and not.”

Use two wrenches to attach the gas line

Reconnect the vent if it is not already connected! Place it securely over the draft hood and secure it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws to hold it in position. Prepare the holes by drilling them. Before turning at the first elbow, the vent should rise at least 12 inches vertically. In this eighth step, you will learn how to use a comma to separate two words that are similar in meaning.

Check for backdrafting

The majority of water heaters rely on a natural airflow to carry combustion emissions up the chimney and out of the building. If the draft does not operate, the fumes, which may contain lethal carbon monoxide, will be released into your home and cause you to become sick. Check the draft when you’ve finished installing everything. Close all of your external doors and windows, and put on the exhaust fans in your kitchen and bathroom. Continue to run a hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in your water heater come to life.

Ideally, the smoke should be drawn upward through the vent pipe. If the smoke does not draw, this indicates that the burner’s fumes are not escaping. Turn off the gas to the water heater and call a professional for assistance.

Check for leaks

Check for leaks by turning on the gas and squeezing a 50-50 combination of dishwashing liquid and water over the connection points. If there are bubbles in the mixture, you have a leak. Joints that are leaking should be tightened or reconnected. When you’re finished, wipe the joints down with a clean cloth. Make an appointment with the plumbing inspector to have them go at your work. Follow the how-to instructions that are included with the photographs to ensure that the connections are secure.

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Light the pilot light

The pilot light should be turned on in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. (When using an electric water heater, turn on the electricity at the main panel after your work has been checked by the electrical inspector). Once you’ve finished, adjust the temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit according to the installation instructions. The pilot light in the new water heater should be lit, then the temperature setting should be adjusted.

Installation Details for Electric Water Heaters

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for lighting the pilot light. For electric water heaters, turn on the power at the main panel after your work has been checked by an electrician. Finally, according to the installation instructions, set the temperature to 120 degrees F. To begin using your new water heater, turn on the pilot light and change the temperature setting as needed.

How to Dispose of a Water Heater

In this video lesson, Jeff Gorton, an editor at The Family Handyman, will show you how to remove and dispose of a water heater in the proper manner. He will also demonstrate a simple method of transporting a water heater out of your home, even if you are working on your own.

These tips will make your work go faster and easier:

  • To avoid modifying the length of your water, gas, or electrical lines, take note of the height of your existing water heater and get a new one that is the same height
  • On older water heaters, the drain valve (Photo 2) frequently becomes clogged. Please be patient if the water drains slowly. WARNING: The temperature is really high! TIP: Turn off your water heater two hours before you want to use it to enable the water to cool. Water heaters are around 150 pounds in weight. When you’re moving the old one out and wheeling the new one in, you’ll need a strong partner or a dolly to assist you. Ordinarily, garbage collection agencies charge approximately $25 to remove the old one. Before you begin, purchase the equipment and materials listed below from a plumbing supply or hardware shop, or from a home improvement center.

Additional Information

Water Heater Maintenance: How to Extend the Life of Your Hot Water Heater How to Repair a Leaking Water Heater Water Heater Installation Instructions on how to replace the TPR valve on a water heater Solar Water Heater Made at Home How to Repair or Replace Water Heater Dip Tubes That Are Defective How to Flush a Water Heater (with Pictures) The Process of Purchasing a New Water Heater 7 Myths About Tankless Water Heaters That You Should Never Believe The Advantages and Disadvantages of Tankless Water Heaters

How to: Install a Hot Water Heater with SharkBite

Extend the life of your hot water heater by doing regular maintenance on it. Install a new water heater to repair a leaking water heater. Instructions on how to replace the TPR valve on a water heater. Water Heater Made From Solar Energy How to Repair or Replace Water Heater Dip Tubes That Are Defective. Using a Water Heater, Learn How to Flush It What to Look for When Shopping for a Water Heater 7 Myths About Tankless Water Heaters You Should Never Believe Tankless water heaters have both advantages and disadvantages.

  1. Working in confined places
  2. Simple connections between water heaters and pre-existing pipes that do not line up
  3. The ability to attach the water heater to practically any type of pipe material is essential.

In cramped quarters, do your work The ability to connect existing pipes that do not line up with water heaters is simple. The ability to attach the water heater to nearly any type of pipe material is essential.

Braided vs. Corrugated Water Heater Hoses

SharkBite provides both braided and corrugated flexible water heater hoses, as well as ball valves for use with or without a heater. On the supply side of the water heater, ball valves on the water heater hoses offer a shutoff.

To determine if hard piping to your water heater is necessary, check with your local plumbing regulations. When rigid pipe is not an option, stainless steel corrugated connectors can be utilized as a substitute.

Installing a SharkBite Water Heater Hose

  1. First and foremost, determine the pipe material. Measure the distance between the hot and cold supply lines and the water heater in order to select the appropriate length connection
  2. Et cetera Make sure to cut the pipe as cleanly as straight as you possibly can. Check to see that the pipe is clear of scratches and other debris. If you’re working with copper pipe, be sure there are no sharp edges or burrs on the pipe. Once this is completed, use your SharkBiteDeburrGauge tool to measure and indicate the insertion depth on your pipe. Hand tighten the female connector onto the pipe nipple and then tighten with a quarter turn using a wrench, being careful not to overtighten the connector. Is it necessary for me to use thread tape? No. SharkBite water heater connections employ a gasket to seal onto the nipples of the water heater pipe, so thread tape is not necessary. Push the fitting to the desired position.

Installing a hot water heater using SharkBite is a quick, efficient, and dependable process. The field-proven design of our hot water heater connectors is simple, secure, and adaptable enough to meet the needs of any installation project, no matter how complicated.

Electric Water Heater Installation: Step-by-Step Guide

It is quick, efficient, and dependable to install a hot water heater using SharkBite. Simple, secure, and adaptable, the field-proven design of our hot water heater connectors may be customized to meet the specific needs of each installation.

Preparing to Install an Electric Water Heater

Having concluded that you want a new water heater, you may like to consult our buyers guide to assist you in selecting the most appropriate model for your needs. Furthermore, if you elect to install the water heater yourself, you will be responsible for removing your old water heater and properly disposing of it. Find Local Plumbing Professionals

Tools and Supplies

Installing an electric water heater is far less difficult than installing a gas water heater, but it is still a significant undertaking. Our recommendation is to hire a professional to complete the installation if you are unfamiliar with electrical and plumbing. In addition, they will often dispose of your old water heater for you as part of the installation process. The following are step-by-step instructions for installing your electric water heater:

Disconnect the Electricity

Step 1: Locate the circuit breaker panel for your water heater and turn off the electricity there. Check the wiring of the water heater using a voltage tester to ensure that the device is turned off. Although it is not discussed in the video below, it is always a good idea to double-check that the water heater is not receiving any power after turning it off at the circuit breaker before doing any work on it. Start by turning on a hot water faucet and letting the water flow until it is cold. This step is not discussed in the video, but it is necessary to guarantee that you are able to drain the tank securely and without getting scalded by the water.

Connect the hose to the drain valve on the water heater.

Disconnect the Electrical

The next step is to disconnect the electrical cables from the water heater’s top. To begin, be certain that the circuit breaker in the breaker box has been switched off. Then, before you begin, verify the wires with a voltage tester to ensure they are in good working order. Cap the wires and name them (or take a picture of them) so that there is no confusion when you are connecting your new water heater in the future.

Disconnect the Plumbing

Step 4Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the water heater. Copper piping may have been used in the installation of your water heater, and you may need to cut the pipes.

If you need to cut the pipes, use a tubing (pipe) cutter and try to leave as much of the pipe as feasible intact as you can before cutting. If the discharge pipe from the T P valve is in good condition, you can remove it from the T P valve and reuse it on your new water heater.

Remove the Old Water Heater

Step 5: Using a dolly, move the old water heater out of the way after the tank is empty. Place the new tank in its proper location. It is recommended that the replacement tank be placed in a drain pan. Find out why. Make certain that your electrical supply will be sufficient to reach the tank. Check sure you have access to the panels and the drain valve in case you need to do maintenance.

Prepare the Plumbing Lines

The pipes will need to be prepared with a sandpaper cloth if your old water heater had copper plumbing and it was required to cut the pipes. Rub the ends of the pipes with the sandpaper cloth until they are gleaming brilliantly again. Find Local Plumbing Professionals

Connect the Electrical Wiring

In order to gain access to the electrical cables, remove the junction box cover in Step 7. Attach the ground wire to the green ground screw using a crimp connector. Wire connectors are used to join the other wires together by twisting them together. Make use of the prior wire connections as a reference and reconnect the wires in the same manner in which they were disconnected. Follow the directions on your label tags or the photo you took in Step 3. After that, reinstall the lid of the junction box.

Attach the Supply LinesTurn On the Water

Step 8: Connect the water supply lines for hot and cold water. Make certain that the cold water pipe is connected to the cold water intake on the water heater (it’s easy to make the error of connecting the cold to the hot water pipe). If your old water heater was plumbed with copper piping, you may want to consider plumbed it with copper piping once more. Flexible hoses, on the other hand, are highly recommended for making the connections. Not only is it more convenient, but it is also a suggested safety element in the event of an earthquake.

Connect the flexible hoses to the nipples on the water heater using the hose clamps.

When connecting flexible hoses to the hot and cold water pipes, we recommend that you use dielectric connections to prevent shock.

Attach the T P Discharge Pipe

Connection of the hot and cold water supply lines in step eight Make certain that the cold water pipe is connected to the cold water intake on the water heater (it’s easy to make the error of connecting the cold to the hot water line.) If the copper piping in your previous water heater was still in good condition, you may decide to reinstall it. The use of flexible hoses to create the connections, on the other hand, is strongly encouraged. Furthermore, it is a suggested earthquake safety element since it is not only simpler but also more effective.

Connect the flexible hoses to the nipples on the water heater using the hose clamps.

A plumber’s tape will be required in most circumstances to protect the threaded rods. When connecting flexible hoses to hot and cold water pipelines, we recommend utilizing dielectric connections. These fixtures will assist in lowering the overall cost of ownership.

  • Make use of a 3/4-inch male copper fitting. Paintpipe dope applied on the exterior of the fitting as well as the interior of the valve fittings. Tighten the fitting to the T P valve fitting once it has been attached. Remove the fitting from the pipe’s end and clean it
  • Soldering flux should be painted on the inside of the male fitting and outside of the pipe. Fitting the pipe to the fitting is completed. To join the pipes, solder and a torch should be used.

Turn On the PowerBleed the Hot Water Lines

Step 10After your water heater tank has been completely filled with water, switch on the circuit breaker located at the main power panel. Attention must be taken when turning on the electricity before the tank has entirely filled since the electric components may dry up if they are not totally immersed. This might cause irreparable damage to your electric heating components. Remember to switch off the circuit breaker before inspecting the electrical connections on your water heater if your water heater isn’t getting electricity.

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Bleed Hot Water Lines

Step 11Allow the hot water tap to run for a few minutes until it stops “sputtering” in order to expel the air trapped in the tank and piping system. It may take many hours for the water in the tank to reach its maximum temperature. The temperature setting that is recommended is 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Let it sit for a couple of hours before checking the T P discharge pipe. If the pipe is dripping, it is possible that the pressure is too high.

Watch the Video

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A. O. Smith Water Heaters at Lowes

Back It is recommended that you read the printed instructions that came with your water heater in addition to the material on this web site. Read and observe any warning labels on the water heater, as well as the safety recommendations in the printed owner’s handbook, to limit the danger of property damage, serious injury, or death.

Step1:Tools

  • Toolkit includes: box cutter, marker, thermometer, non-contact circuit tester, paper towels or shop rags, pipe cutter, pipe joint compound or plumber’s tape, and other miscellaneous items. nutscrew and/or Phillips screwdriver and wrench (quarter-inch diameter)

Step2:Supplies

  • If you have copper pipes, you should consider purchasing an Electric Water Heater Installation Kit (available at hardware shops and home centers), which includes compression fittings that do not require soldering. When installing plastic pipe in a residence, utilize threaded connections that are appropriate for the type of plastic pipe being used: CPVC or PEX (cross-linked polyethylene). Use of PVC or iron pipe is not recommended. Valve for shutting off the system
  • Thermostatic mixing valves are used in many applications.

Step3:Open Box and Remove the Water Heater

  • Drain pan
  • For homes with copper pipes, consider purchasing an Electric Water Heater Installation Kit (available at hardware shops and home centers), which includes compression fittings that do not require soldering. Drain pan
  • CPVC or PEX threaded connectors should be utilized in residences with plastic pipe, depending on the kind of plastic pipe being used (cross-linked polyethylene). PVC and iron pipe should not be used. Valve for shutting down
  • Mixing valves that are controlled by a thermostatic setting

Step4:Read the Printed Installation Instructions and Labels

  • Before you begin, make sure you have read the printed installation instructions, including all of the safety cautions. Ensure that you have read and understood all of the labels on the water heater. Ensure that the installation conforms with applicable national, state, and local building, plumbing, and electrical codes by following the steps outlined in this section. Check the data plate on the water heater to check that the voltage, wire size, and circuit breaker settings in the residence are appropriate for this water heater. Ensure that the wire sizes, types, and connections all conform with all applicable local rules and standards before proceeding. Follow NFPA-70 and the current edition of the National Electric Code (NEC) if there are no local codes in effect. NOTICE: If you are unsure that you will be able to perform the installation correctly and securely, obtain assistance from a skilled individual.

Step5:Install the Drain Pan

  • Before you begin, make sure you have read the printed installation instructions, which should include all of the safety cautions. The water heater’s labeling should be read in its entirety. Ensure that the installation conforms with applicable national, state, and local building, plumbing, and electrical codes by following the procedures outlined in this document. Check the data plate on the water heater to make sure that the voltage, wire size, and circuit breaker settings in the residence are appropriate for this water heater model. Ensure that the wire sizes, types, and connections all conform with all necessary local rules and standards before starting the installation. Follow NFPA-70 and the most recent version of the National Electric Code (NEC) in the absence of local codes. ADVICE TO RESIDENTS: If you are not certain that you can perform the installation accurately and securely, seek professional assistance.

Step6:Install the Water Heater in the Drain Pan

  • Place the water heater in the drain pan, being careful not to damage the drain pan
  • And WARNING: Water heaters are quite hefty. If you don’t have an appliance dolly, it’s best to have two or more people help you remove or install a water heater. Failure to do so may result in a back injury or another type of harm. Check to see that there is sufficient access to and space around the water heater for future maintenance.

Step7:Install the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve

  • Almost all T P Relief Valves (Temperature and Pressure Relief Valves) are fitted at the manufacture. It is necessary to place your T P Relief Valve in the aperture labeled “T P Relief Valve” if it is included in a separate carton. Use the new T P Relief Valve that was included with your new water heater to relieve pressure. Do not use the previous one again
  • WARNING! If your water heater did not come with a T P Relief Valve (as well as a discharge pipe), install one (as well as a discharge pipe) in accordance with the printed installation instructions to avoid serious injury or death as a result of an explosion.

Step8:Install the Discharge Pipe

  • Install the discharge pipe in the appropriate location. The discharge pipe should have an internal diameter of at least 3/4″ and should be slanted to allow for efficient drainage. Install it so that the entire drainage system can function
  • The discharge pipe must be able to endure temperatures of 250°F (121°C) without distorting. Only copper, PEX, or CPVC pipe should be used. Use of any other form of pipe, such as PVC, iron, flexible plastic pipe, or any other sort of hose, is strictly prohibited. Finish the discharge pipe at least 1″ above a floor drain or outside, with a maximum of 6″ above the drain or outside. Instead of draining the discharge pipe into the drain pan, pipe it to a suitable drain instead. If you live in a cold region, you should connect the discharge line within the building to a suitable drain. Drains on the outside of the house might freeze and clog the drain line. WARNING: Do not put any in your cart.

Step9:Install Shutoff Valve

  • Install a manual shutdown valve in the cold water line that serves the water heater if one hasn’t previously been set up in that location. It is best to locate the shutdown valve next to the water heater so that it is easily reached. Only utilize a full-flow ball or gate valve that is suitable with potable water
  • The placement and piping of your water heater will determine how you complete this stage. Consult the installation manual for further information.

Step10:Install Thermostatic Mixing Valves

  • Install a Thermostatic Mixing Valve at each point of usage (for example, the kitchen sink, the bathroom sink, the bath, and the shower) in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Always install a Thermostatic Mixing Valve or other temperature restriction mechanism in the inlet water supply line of a water heater that is fed by a solar water heating system (or any other pre-heating system) to limit the water supply input temperature to 120°F. WARNING! Water that is too hot can produce severe burns very immediately, resulting in serious damage or death. Ensure that there are Thermostatic Mixing Valves installed at each point of usage to minimize the danger of scalding.

Step11:Flexible Connectors are Easier to Work With

  • When connecting the water pipes to the water heater, compression fittings are used to make it easier to remove the water heater for servicing or replacement. To connect the copper pipes to the water heater when soldering copper pipes, utilize dielectric unions to connect the pipes to the water heater
  • It is possible to purchase installation kits that include flexible stainless steel connections and compression fittings that do not require soldering to be installed. Furthermore, many flexible connections are equipped with built-in dielectric fits. Ensure that the fittings you use are appropriate for the kind of pipe in your property. Pipes made of copper, PEX, or CPVC should be used. Use of iron or PVC pipe is not recommended. NOTICE: Do not solder pipes while they are connected to a water heater or while they are in use. The water heater’s input and output connections contain nonmetallic elements that might be harmed if they are not properly maintained.

Step12:Measure Pipes Carefully

  • Use the installation kit with flexible connections to measure both water lines if you are using a flexible connector installation kit.

Step13:Cut Water Pipes to Length

  • Reduce the length of both water pipes, but leave them a few inches longer than the specification. You may always shorten them if the situation calls for it.

Step14:Install Compression Fittings

  • Tighten compression fittings on both water lines after they have been installed. Take a look at this little video to learn how it’s done.

Step15:Pipe Joint Compound or Plumber’s Tape

  • Only use pipe joint compound or plumber’s tape on threaded connections
  • Do not use it anywhere else.

Step16:Connect the Water Supply

  • 3/4-inch hose is used to connect the cold water supply “To connect the output connection on the water heater marked “C” (cold), use an NPT threaded adaptor. 3/4-inch hose is used to connect the hot water supply “To connect the output connection on the water heater marked “H” (HOT), use an NPT threaded adaptor.

Step17:Check the Water Pipes

  • Examine and confirm that the hot and cold water pipes in the residence are connected to the appropriate hot and cold water fittings on the water heater

Step18:Dry the Pipe Connections

  • It is necessary to dry the pipe connections in order to detect any drips or leaks.

Step19:Turn the Cold Water Supply ON

  • Fill the tank with cold water by turning on the cold water supply again.

Step20:Remove the Aerator

NOTICE: Do not switch on the electrical power until you are certain that all of the air has been removed from the tank and that the tank is entirely filled with water. Using electricity before the tank is entirely filled with water will result in a dry fire in the upper element.

  • NOTICE: Do not switch on the electrical power until you are certain that all of the air has been removed from the tank and that the tank is entirely filled with water. It is possible that the upper element will burn out (dry fire) if power is introduced before the tank is entirely filled with water. Follow these procedures to remove all air from the tank and let the tank to entirely fill with water: Remove the aerator from the hot water faucet that is closest to you. All junk in the plumbing system is cleaned out of the pipes as a result of this.

Step21:Open a Hot Water Faucet

  • Open a hot water faucet and let the water to flow continuously until it reaches its maximum flow
  • Allow the water to run at full stream for THREE MINUTES in order to flush out all of the air from the tank. NOTICE: Before attaching electrical power to the tank, you must first remove all of the air from the tank and allow the tank to completely fill with water.

Step22:Close the Hot Water Faucet and Replace the Aerator

  • Close the hot water faucet and reinstall the aerator when all of the air has been removed from the tank.

Step23:Check for Leaks

  • Check for leaks at the input and outlet connections, as well as in the water pipes. Tighten the fittings and fix any leaks that may have occurred. It is almost always the case that leaks occur at connections and not at the tank

Step24:Check for Electrical Power

  • Check the power lines using a non-contact circuit tester to ensure that the power has been turned off completely. WARNING! Working on an electrified circuit has the potential to cause serious damage or death due to electrical shock. Check the cables with a volt meter or circuit tester to ensure that the power has been turned off

Step25:Install Wiring in a Conduit

  • Install wire in a conduit that has been authorized (if necessary by local codes)

Step26:Remove the Junction Box Cover

  • Disconnect the electrical connection box located on the top of the water heater by removing the lid.
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Step27:Insert Conduit Connector

  • Insert the conduit connector and power wires into the junction box cover through the opening in the cover. Strain-relief nut should be attached.

Step28:Connect the Ground Wire

  • Using the bare copper or green ground wire from the house, connect it to the water heater’s green ground screw.

Step29:Connect the Home’s Power Wires

  • Connect the two power wires from the house to the two service wires from the water heater. Make the power connections by using wire nuts or other approved methods that are appropriate for the situation.

Step30:Replace the Junction Box Cover

  • Replace the junction box lid and fasten it with the screws that were provided
  • And NOTE: Make certain that the cover is properly attached to prevent the risk of fire and electric shock.

Step31:Install Strain Relief

  • When connecting the electrical cabling to the water heater, use a strain relief that is UL rated or CSA approved.

Step32:Turn Power ON

  • Power should be turned on at the circuit breaker (or fuses should be replaced). It may take several hours for a tank of cold water to get up to the appropriate temperature. If you still don’t have hot water after two hours, refer to the troubleshooting section for assistance.

Step33:Install Insulation on the Water Pipes

  • Circuit breakers (or fuses) to be turned on to allow power to flow. Bringing a tank of cold water to a boil may take many hours. If you still don’t have hot water after two hours, look to the troubleshooting section for help.

Step34:Adjusting the Temperature

Thermal protection has been provided by factory setting the thermostat(s) on this water heater at about 120°F to limit the danger of scald injury. In order to supply hot water for automated dishwashers or washing machines, as well as to increase hot water capacity and decrease bacterial development, you may want to set the temperature higher.

  • Thermal protection has been provided by factory setting the thermostat(s) on this water heater at about 120°F to limit the danger of scald injury. In order to supply hot water for automated dishwashers or washing machines, to increase the capacity of the hot water heater, and to limit bacterial development, you may want to raise the temperature higher. WARNING! Because of the increased danger of scorching when the water heater’s thermostat(s) is set higher than 120°F, it is advised to install Thermostatic Mixing Valves at each point of use to lessen the risk of scalding
  • However, this is not required. Inspect and adjust Thermostatic Mixing Valves as needed at various places of usage around your home (for example, the bathtub faucet, shower, and lavatory sink)
  • If you really want to modify the temperature, you may do so by following the instructions in Standard Electric Troubleshooting: Adjusting the Temperature.

Learn How to Install a New Water Heater

Because professional installation may easily add $500 or more to the cost of replacing a traditional tank-style water heater, many homeowners are naturally interested in the option of doing it on their own. Furthermore, while it is considered an advanced project, DIYers with sufficient skill may frequently do the task themselves with a little forethought. It’s crucial to highlight that this is not a project for those who are just getting started. Examining the type of water heater you already have is the first step in learning how to install a new water heater in your home.

Then decide on the size: 30-, 40-, 50-, or larger-gallon containers.

If, on the other hand, your old

Gas Water Heater Venting

It has been usual practice for many years to use atmospheric venting to vent the combustion exhaust fumes from a gas-fueled water heater. In this arrangement, a metal draft hood mounted on top of the water heater directed exhaust gases and a small quantity of fresh air from the room up a metal flue that ran through the roof or into a shared chimney, depending on the model. In many circumstances, connecting an existing flue and draft hood to a new water heater will be all that is required; nevertheless, there are other elements (such as the pitch and draft of the connections) that can make the operation considerably more involved than it appears.

When done poorly, exhaust gases (including carbon monoxide) might seep into the home, which is why it is best to leave this process to the professionals.

Warning

All plumbing installations must be in compliance with the local plumbing code, so check with your local building authority to find out what is required in your region. Because installation varies depending on the location and the kind of heater, the following procedures are intended to serve as a general guideline only and may or may not apply to your specific case. As previously indicated, it is preferable to leave this process to the pros.

Materials

  • Purchase of a new water heater, as well as any necessary shimming, plumbing fittings, and plumber’s pipe-seal tape. a draft cowl for the water heater (if one is required for a gas heater)
  • Temperature and pressure relief valves (if not already given)
  • A drain valve for the water heater (if not already provided)
  • Fittings for vent pipes (where required)
  • Nipples for galvanized water heaters with a plastic liner (2)
  • Flexible water heater tubing (if required)
  • Flexible gas heater tubes (if required)

Shut off the Water, and the Gas or Electricity

Purchase of a new water heater, as well as any necessary shimming, plumbing fittings, and plumber’s pipe-sealing tape. If a gas water heater is being used, a draft hood will be needed. temperature and pressure relief valve (in the absence of a built-in one); a drain valve for the water heater (in the absence of one built-in). Fittings for vent pipes (where required). nipples for galvanized water heaters with a plastic liner (2) if necessary, flexible water heater tubing; if necessary, flexible gas heater tubes

Drain the Water Heater Tank

A garden hose should be connected to the drain valve located towards the bottom of the water heater. Open the nearest hot water faucet, such as the one in the bathroom, to avoid suction from building up in the line, which can cause the draining to become sluggish. Place the other end of the hose over a floor drain or direct it to an open area outside. To prevent silt from clogging the drain valve, open it carefully when first turning it on. Allow the tank to empty entirely before turning off the valve and removing the hose from the tank.

Getty Images courtesy of Dorling Kindersley

Disconnect the Water Lines

Disconnect the hot and cold water lines from the water heater by using a pipe wrench or channel-lock pliers to tighten the connections. The water lines to the heater may be linked with flexible tubes (usually combined with compression or union fittings) or with soldered connections, depending on the type of heater being used (soldered lines must be cut with atubing cutter).

Disconnect the Electrical or Gas Lines

Next, the water heater’s power source must be unplugged from the mains power supply. For an electric water heater, follow these steps: Removing the cover from the wire connection panel at the top of the water heater will reveal the wire connections. Check the individual wires with a non-contact voltage tester to ensure that the circuit is off, and then remove the wire connectors that link the circuit wires to the water heater leads. Remove the cable from the connection box by unscrewing the cable clip and pulling the cable out.

There are several types of gas tubes available.

Disconnect the Water Heater Vent (Gas Heaters Only)

The vent pipe should be disconnected from the draft hood located on the top of the heater.

In most cases, three or four sheet metal screws are used to attach the draft hood to the exhaust vent pipe. If the draft hood is still in excellent condition, you may be able to utilize it with the new water heater if you replace it.

Swap the Old Water Heater for the New

Use an appliance dolly with straps to move the old water heater out of the way and wheel in the new water heater. The use of a helper is recommended while moving water heaters up and down basement steps. When transferring the heater, make sure you tie it to the dolly with strong straps. Clean up the area on the floor where the old heater used to be. Bring in the new water heater and align it with the existing plumbing connections so that it is connected to the water heater’s plumbing system. Shimming beneath the legs of the new water heater can help to level it if necessary.

Tip

If you live in an earthquake-prone area, there may be brackets or straps that need to be attached to the wall to keep the water heater from moving about while in use. The water heater should be installed. Image courtesy of Jim Zuckerman / Getty Images

Install the Relief Valve and Other Fittings

Install all of the necessary fittings that are required for the water heater to function properly. This always comprises a temperature and pressure relief valve (also known as a TPR valve) as well as a drainpipe for discharge. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install any additional fittings that may be required. Relief valve for high and low temperatures and pressures

Connect the Water Lines

Tie galvanized plastic-lined nipples to the cold water input and hot water outlet ports on the top of the water heater using stainless steel screws. In order to install the nipples, you must first cover the threads with plumber’s pipe-seal tape before threading the nipples into the apertures and tightening them using channel-lock pliers or with a pipe wrench. Connect the cold water pipe to the intake nipple on the water heater, and the hot water pipe to the output nipple on the water heater to complete the installation.

When the water pipes are hard-piped into the water heater and cutting is necessary to remove the water heater, the operation becomes a little more difficult.

Connect the Gas or Electrical Lines

Connect the gas or electricity sources, depending on their location: For a gas water heater, follow these steps: Connect the gas line to the control valve for the gas burner. Use a flexible gas line if it is available and permitted by local regulations. Check for leaks by turning on the gas supply valve and scrubbing the gas union and any gas joints with a soapy water solution until they are clean. If you notice any bubbles, this indicates that the connection is leaking and that it needs to be tightened.

For an electric water heater, follow these steps: Connect the electrical cable to the water heater’s wire connection box, which is located at the top of the water heater.

Wire connectors should be used to connect the circuit wires to the water heater lead connections. Glue the cover plate to the frame.

Reconnect the Vent (Gas Heaters Only)

The draft hood should be installed at the top of the water heater, centered above the exhaust aperture, and then inserted into the exhaust pipe. Sheet-metal screws are used to hold it in place. You may need to reduce the vent pipe if the new water heater is higher than the old one. You may accomplish this by cutting the vent pipe down to size using metal shears or by installing a shorter pipe segment. Another option is to lengthen the vent by installing an additional vent pipe segment if your water heater is less than the standard length.

The new water heater should come with its own set of parts and operating instructions.

Tip

Shared venting with a chimney or flue that simultaneously serves a furnace (as seen above) is no longer permitted in some municipalities. This means that you may need to hire a professional to reroute the venting for your new water heater in this situation. courtesy of Comstock / Getty Images

Complete the Installation

Connect the hot water faucet to a distant position in the home, then turn on the cold water supply valve to the water heater, allowing the water heater tank to fill with water until the hot water tap is turned off. When water begins to flow from the hot water faucet, you’ll know the tank is completely full. Turning the circuit breaker back on for an electric water heater will re-energize the circuit that supplies electricity to the water heater. If you’re using a gas heater, make sure the main gas valve is open and that the pilot igniter is functioning correctly by following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Turn on the heat source.

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