How to Plumb Electric Hot Water Heaters With Copper Fittings
Plumbing an electric water heater with copper needs a little more effort than doing the same procedure with PVC or steel pip, but it is not impossible. Out of consideration for the evident differences in the methods used to join fittings, there is also the question of where and when the fittings can be assembled. A section of the plumbing must be completed before it is connected to the water heater due to the high heat necessary to solder copper fittings and pipes. This prevents internal elements and wiring from being damaged during the soldering process.
- Using a wire brush, thoroughly clean the interior of a 3/4-inch threaded male fitting. Insert the brush into the slip-fit side of the fitting and rotate the brush three or four times counterclockwise to remove surface oxidation from the fitting
- The tubing cutter should be used to cut a length of 3/4-inch tubing that is at least 6-inches long. Using an emery cloth, clean both ends of the tube that was cut
- Then use a flux brush to apply flux to the inside of the threaded male fitting as well as the exterior of one end of the tube
- And Incorporate the tubing into the threaded male fitting by threading it in. When inserting the tube, use a twisting motion to ensure that all of the pieces are properly inserted. A torch should be used to heat the collar of the threaded fitting closest to the threads. The melted solder is drawn to the hot area of the junction by gravity. A weak or partial joint is created when heat is applied to the outside end of the slip fitting
- Allow the fitting and tube to cool to room temperature by allowing them to air cool. It is not recommended to submerge in water. The copper’s structure and integrity are compromised as a result of this practice. Wrap two to three layers of plumber’s tape around the threaded fitting
- Insert the fitting into the heater’s intake or output port and tighten tightly using a wrench
- Repeat the previous procedures for the remaining port
- Obtain access to existing plumbing by installing tubes and fittings. Before connecting the electricity to the water heater, run a pressure test via the pipes. Before putting the heater into use, make sure there are no leaks.
Copper Connectors directly to Water Heater Question
Is it possible that they are sacrificing the nipples rather than the tank/tank connector in terms of the nipple set-up? is it in an attempt to increase the tank’s life expectancy? I was thinking about them the other day while working on an installation – is it simply that the unions tend to be female? Male dielectric unions are terrible, and I don’t advocate using them unless they are sleeved with a half dip tube to make them seem better. When dielectrics are used, they are intended to disrupt the continuity of electrical flow by creating a gap between dissimilar metals.
- It is possible that I am transmitting facts inaccurately, but I am certain that I am getting near to understanding what I’m talking about when it comes to electricity.
- The bottom line is that I never connect copper to galvanized steel.
- beside the reality that it complements the flexibility of the nipples in a straightforward manner I only have a few leaks on these sorts of connections that use a rubber washer, and when I do, the leak is brought to my attention and the connection is rectified.
- If my financial situation enables it and I am able to raise the necessary funds, I will.
- However, despite its high cost, a brass dielectric is a long-lasting component that may be reused from one heater to another.
- The addition of this product to the plumbing industry is, in my opinion, a wonderful complement to the items.
- It stinks, regardless of whether it indirectly lines my pockets.
- We’re talking hundreds of thousands of dollars to get things started, not to mention the costs of negotiating with China to mass produce the goods.
Everyone in the United States wants between 13 and 25 dollars an hour to do work that people in China do for quarters or even pennies. Aside from that, the photographs are excellent. The most recent revision was made on:
How to Solder a Water Heater
When it comes to installing a new water heater, it’s simplest if you’re dealing with a project that doesn’t require soldering to get the job done. Generally speaking, you may connect your water heater to a plastic pipe using flexible connectors (at least 18″ of length will prevent the plastic pipes from overheating). In the event that you are required to grasp how to solder a water heater connection, the following guide will assist you in understanding the method.
Things to Know
When utilizing galvanized nipples to connect your heater to copper or brass, a dielectric union is essential to avoid galvanic corrosion, which is a corrosive reaction caused by acidic electrolysis that can damage your heater. Corrosion causes weak and defective connections as a result of the corrosion. In this case, a more basic approach would be to connect the nipples coming from the water heater’s intake and output together using a “water flex.” In order to separate the corrosive reaction, these flexible supply lines are constructed, thereby removing the requirement for a dielectric union.
Even though soldering pipe requires some skill, according to a few simple guidelines can assist to ensure that your weld is leak-proof.
- Clean your connections and piping from the inside out (emery cloth and wire brushes are good options)
- It is recommended to usefluxon both inside and outside of the fitting
- Make sure you don’t raise your torchtoo much. Instead of heating the pipe, heat the fitting. While performing this maneuver (which is rather entertaining to see), the solder will be “drawn” into the fitting. Keep a spritzer for water bottles on hand
Soldering Water Heater Pipes in 8 Steps
Following the cleaning of the pipe and fitting, you’re ready to begin to work:
- Apply a generous layer of flux to each parts before sliding them together. Using the solder roll, unroll approximately 12″ of solder and bend the end to make a hook shape, leaving around 10″ between you and the end
- Adjust the flow of your flashlight to a medium flow by turning on your torch and being cautious of your surroundings. Due to the fact that soldering works best with constant heat, the area beneath your fitting will get extremely hot, almost to the point of burning. In order to avoid setting objects on fire while soldering next to flammable materials, place a heat cloth behind your fitting when soldering. Direct your flame toward the fitting side of the connection until approximately 1/4 of the length of the flame is on the fitting
- Using the solder end that you previously bent on the underside of the pipe, attach it directly to where the fitting and the pipe meet. Once the fitting has reached a sufficient temperature, the solder at the end of your soldering iron will liquify and pull into the fitting. In order to prevent this from happening, move the solder’s tip around the pipe. After you’ve finished, spritz it with water for a brief cool down and turn off your torch. Connect the water to your fittings and check for leaks once they have all been soldered. If there are visible leaks, repeat steps 4 through 9.
Please keep in mind that a pipe with water inside will not heat up sufficiently to solder. Remove a piece of bread crust and shove it into the pipe if there is still water present. The bread should be able to soak up enough water to allow you to solder your connection. Remember to remove the aerator from your faucet before turning it on, or otherwise your sink will fill up with soft bread and water.
Solder with Confidence
Having learned all you need to know, you can shop and save on the best soldering materials available here at PlumbersStock. Bradford White is one of our fantastic brands, and we have many more as well. In the event that you have any more queries regarding soldering water heater pipes, please do not hesitate to contact us. Resources that are related to this topic include: Installing a Gas Water Heater: A Step-by-Step Guide Installing an Electric Water Heater – Step by Step Instructions How to Wire a Hot Water Heater (with Pictures) Installing a Water Heater Expansion Tank is a simple process.
How to: Install a Hot Water Heater with SharkBite
In order for a home to be comfortable, water heaters are essential. They are, on the other hand, sometimes difficult to get since they are tucked away in cramped quarters or small closets. SharkBiteflexible water heater hosesallow professionals to simplify water heater installations since they provide the following features:
- Working in confined places
- Simple connections between water heaters and pre-existing pipes that do not line up
- The ability to attach the water heater to practically any type of pipe material is essential.
SharkBite hot water heater connectors have been authorized for use with electric or gas water heaters that have a flu vent installed.
Braided vs. Corrugated Water Heater Hoses
SharkBite provides both braided and corrugated flexible water heater hoses, as well as ball valves for use with or without a heater. On the supply side of the water heater, ball valves on the water heater hoses offer a shutoff.
To determine if hard piping to your water heater is necessary, check with your local plumbing regulations. When rigid pipe is not an option, stainless steel corrugated connectors can be utilized as a substitute.
Installing a SharkBite Water Heater Hose
- First and foremost, determine the pipe material. Measure the distance between the hot and cold supply lines and the water heater in order to select the appropriate length connection
- Et cetera Make sure to cut the pipe as cleanly as straight as you possibly can. Check to see that the pipe is clear of scratches and other debris. If you’re working with copper pipe, be sure there are no sharp edges or burrs on the pipe. Once this is completed, use your SharkBiteDeburrGauge tool to measure and indicate the insertion depth on your pipe. Hand tighten the female connector onto the pipe nipple and then tighten with a quarter turn using a wrench, being careful not to overtighten the connector. Is it necessary for me to use thread tape? No. SharkBite water heater connections employ a gasket to seal onto the nipples of the water heater pipe, so thread tape is not necessary. To install the fitting, push it all the way to the mark you just created. Then repeat the process on the hot water exit side
- Finally, switch on your water and double-check the connections to your hot water heater. If you detect water dripping from the pipe nipple connection, use a wrench to tighten the connection even further.
Installing a hot water heater using SharkBite is a quick, efficient, and dependable process. The field-proven design of our hot water heater connectors is simple, secure, and adaptable enough to meet the needs of any installation project, no matter how complicated.
DIY Water Heater Installation
Time A busy day of work Complexity IntermediateCost$101–250
When your water heater begins to leak, you must act quickly to have it repaired or replaced. We’ll teach you how to set up your own natural gas water heater in less than a day’s time. Even if you do not require a new water heater at this time, it is likely that you will require one within the next few years. Water heaters typically have a lifespan of seven to fifteen years. If yours is beginning to show signs of wear, this post is also for you. If you’re familiar with basic equipment and have a little expertise soldering copper, replacing a water heater shouldn’t be too tough.
- Water and gas piping
- Discharge pipe
- Pipe thread compound
- Pressure relief valve
- Solder. Ventilation pipe and connections
- Pressure relief valve.
Getting Started Installing Your New Hot Water Tank
In this example, we’re swapping out a natural gas water heater for an electric water heater. The processes for replacing a propane water heater are identical to those for replacing an electric water heater, and the steps for replacing both are comparable. In any event, when it comes to arranging a water heater replacement, it’s best to be cautious. Call your local department of inspections and inquire as to whether or not you require a permit. Also, be certain that your work is checked by a plumbing or electrical inspector.
Plumbers normally charge between $45 and $65 per hour and can complete the installation of a water heater in a day or as little as 6-8 hours.
Gas water heaters with particular venting systems are also available, although they are more costly.
Water Heater Parts and Breakdown
- Fire pipe, cold water shutoff valve, draft diverter, temperature and pressure relief valve, overflow pipe, hot water outlet, anticorrosion anode rod, dip tube, elements, insulation, drain valve, thermostat or control valve, burner, thermocouple, gas supply valve, and more.
When to get a new water heater
When the tank of your water heater leaks, your water heater is out of commission. An indication that your water heater needs to be replaced is a gradual drop beneath the unit, which commonly manifests itself as a trail of discolored water. This indicates that the steel tank has corroded through and will be unable to be repaired. Other symptoms, such as little or no hot water, are typically indicative of other water heater repair issues that may be resolved by you. If you notice a drop, make a plan to get the water heater replaced as soon as possible.
New water heaters are sent with detailed installation instructions as well as several cautions to ensure that the gas, electrical, and other connections are handled properly.
However, you should be aware that you will be dealing with natural gas, propane, or electricity, all of which are potentially harmful.
And, after you’re finished, get your work examined.
Plumbing codes differ from one location to the next. You should explain to your local plumbing inspector how you want to install your new connections, including the sorts of materials you intend to use. Instead of making changes afterwards, it is preferable to seek advice early.
Figure A: Gas Water Heater Details
Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family See the Additional Information section at the end of this article for instructions on how to print this image.
Figure B: Connections for Steel and Plastic Pipe
Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family Water supply pipes in many residences are made of galvanized steel or polyvinyl chloride (CPVC). Replaceable galvanized steel pipes are quite difficult to come by. Using our photo series, we propose that you return the pipes to their original tees and screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple before finishing the connections with copper. Plastic tubing should be kept at least 6 inches away from the vent and tank due to the possibility of heat accumulation. Using a specific connection, you may make the transition from plastic to copper.
Flexible copper connectors are less difficult to install than solid copper connectors, which is especially important when the existing pipes and tank inlets do not match up.
If yours does, take extra care not to pinch or kink them when handling them.
Project step-by-step (12)
Turn off the gas to the water heater by twisting the shutdown valve a quarter turn away from the water heater. When the handle is turned off, it should be at a straight angle to the pipe. Also, turn off the main water supply and drain the pipes by opening a tap on the lowest floor of the building. Step No. 2
Drain the water in the tank
Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and use it to drain the water that has accumulated in the tank. The water will be boiling hot, so proceed with caution! With a pair of wrenches, disconnect the gas line at the neighboring union and remove the pipe from the gas control valve with a pipe wrench to complete the task.
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Complete your do-it-yourself tasks like an expert! Become a subscriber to our newsletter! Do It Right the First Time, and Do It Yourself! Step number three.
Cut off the water lines
The vent pipe should be moved to the side once it has been unscrewed from the vent hood. After that, using a tube cutter, cut the hot and cold water lines. For galvanized pipe, remove the unions and, if you have them, remove the nuts on the flexible connections as well. Move the old water heater to the side of the room. Step number four.
Attach the relief valve
Teflon tape should be used to seal the threads of the new temperature and pressure relief valve (three turns). With a pipe wrench, tighten it inside the tank until it is completely sealed. Glue a copper discharge pipe to the wall (see Fig. A for routing details). Step number five.
Attach pipe assemblies
Solder fresh copper adapters to 6-in. lengths of 3/4-in. copper pipe and screw the assemblies into the hot water outlet and cold water inlet ports on the top of the tank’s tank’s tank’s tank. Make use of short, plastic-lined nipples to protect your pipes from galvanic corrosion, especially if you have hard water or if they are required by your local building standards. Step 6: Organize your thoughts and feelings about the situation.
Attach the water lines
Slide the new water heater into position, recut or lengthen the old tubing to connect it to the new, and solder the tubing together using copper slip couplings to complete the installation.
If the tubing does not line up properly, use pairs of 45-degree elbows to adjust the alignment of the lines. Step 7 – Organize your time and resources.
Reattach the vent
Reconnect the vent if necessary. Place it securely over the draft hood and secure it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws to hold it in place. Prepare the holes by drilling them beforehand. Before turning at the first elbow, the vent should rise at least 12 inches vertically from the floor. In this eighth step, you will learn how to use a comma to separate the words “and” and “and not.”
Use two wrenches to attach the gas line
Reconnect the gas line if necessary. Pipe joint compound should be applied to the threaded ends before screwing the first nipple into the gas valve. To minimize straining the valve, use two pipe wrenches at the same time. Reassemble the remaining nipples, concluding with the union at the end of the process (Photo 2). Then, in order to fill the tank, perform these four steps: To check for leaks, perform the following steps: (1) cut off the main water valve; (2) re-connect the water at the main shutoff; (3) open the cold-water valve on the water heater (but do not close it); and (4) turn on a nearby hot-water faucet until water flows out.
Check for backdrafting
The majority of water heaters rely on a natural airflow to carry combustion emissions up the chimney and out of the building. If the draft does not operate, the fumes, which may contain lethal carbon monoxide, will be released into your home and cause you to become sick. Check the draft when you’ve finished installing everything. Close all of your external doors and windows, and put on the exhaust fans in your kitchen and bathroom. Continue to run a hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in your water heater come to life.
Ideally, the smoke should be drawn upward through the vent pipe.
Turn off the gas supply to the water heater and contact a certified plumber to diagnose and remedy the problem.
Check for leaks
Check for leaks by turning on the gas and squeezing a 50-50 combination of dishwashing liquid and water over the connection points. If there are bubbles in the mixture, you have a leak. Joints that are leaking should be tightened or reconnected. When you’re finished, wipe the joints down with a clean cloth. Make an appointment with the plumbing inspector to have them go at your work. Follow the how-to instructions that are included with the photographs to ensure that the connections are secure.
Light the pilot light
The pilot light should be turned on in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. (When using an electric water heater, turn on the electricity at the main panel after your work has been checked by the electrical inspector). Once you’ve finished, adjust the temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit according to the installation instructions. The pilot light in the new water heater should be lit, then the temperature setting should be adjusted.
Installation Details for Electric Water Heaters
At your main electrical panel, turn off all power to your water heater, then turn it back on. After that, empty the water heater in the same manner as you would a gas water heater. As soon as the water heater has been drained, separate the electrical wires from the screw terminals under the access panel, which is normally situated towards the top of the water heater. To handle all of the electrical wiring, you should engage an electrician if you don’t have any prior knowledge with it. When it comes to wiring the new water heater, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
- x 4-in.
- metal electrical box on the wall or ceiling near the water heater, route the old wires to the box, and then run a new length of armored cable or electrical conduit to the water heater to complete the installation.
- The circuit should also have a shutdown switch that is visible from the vicinity of the water heater.
- You’ll almost certainly require a permit.
- Aluminum wire needs specific care and handling.
If you have aluminum wire, you should choose a qualified professional who is experienced in working with it. This wiring is a dull gray color, rather than the drab orange color that is characteristic of copper wiring. ‘Step 12’ is the final step in the process.
How to Dispose of a Water Heater
In this video lesson, Jeff Gorton, an editor at The Family Handyman, will show you how to remove and dispose of a water heater in the proper manner. He will also demonstrate a simple method of transporting a water heater out of your home, even if you are working on your own.
These tips will make your work go faster and easier:
- To avoid modifying the length of your water, gas, or electrical lines, take note of the height of your existing water heater and get a new one that is the same height
- On older water heaters, the drain valve (Photo 2) frequently becomes clogged. Please be patient if the water drains slowly. WARNING: The temperature is really high! TIP: Turn off your water heater two hours before you want to use it to enable the water to cool. Water heaters are around 150 pounds in weight. When you’re moving the old one out and wheeling the new one in, you’ll need a strong partner or a dolly to assist you. Ordinarily, garbage collection agencies charge approximately $25 to remove the old one. Before you begin, go to a plumbing supply or hardware store, or a home center, and purchase the equipment and materials seen below. Check the sizes of the water supply pipes (the majority will be 3/4 in., as shown in our photographs) and purchase the fittings that are the proper size. If you have everything you need, you should be able to complete the work in four to six hours (provided there are no major problems!). This safety mechanism, which controls tank pressure and prevents it from bursting, is located in the tank’s pressure relief valve assembly (Photo 4). It is necessary to include a fresh one with each installation. The discharge pipe must be kept clear of impediments in order for the valve to function correctly (see Fig. A). Use 3/4-in. plastic-lined nipples (about $2 each
- Photo 5 and Fig. A) to attach other metals, mainly copper tubing to the steel tank, in areas where the water is highly mineralized or where it is needed by municipal laws. This has the effect of slowing rusting. In order to avoid heating the tank itself during soldering, solder the copper fittings before screwing them to the tank (Photo 5)
- Slip couplings should be used to link the existing and new water lines (Photo 6). (Photo 6). They do not have an internal stop, in contrast to normal couplings. Alternatively, you may slip them on, align the copper tubing, then slide them back and center them over the junction
- However, the new inlets and outlets on the tank don’t always line up with the old supply lines, and vice versa. If required, solder in a pair of 45-degree fittings to ensure that each line is offset. While you’re doing it, you should also replace the old cutoff valve with a new ball valve (Photo 6). The diameter of the vents is determined by the amount of heat produced by the water heater. In order to achieve the ideal draft, you may need to raise or reduce the ventilation size. CAUTION: If you’re not sure whether or not your chimney has a liner, consult with a plumbing inspector. Make gas connections using solid steel pipe (Photo 8) or soft copper tubing with flare fittings (Fig. A). Both are more dependable and less expensive than flexible stainless steel connections, which are not usually allowed in some applications. For the same reasons, rigid copper water supply lines should be used rather than flexible copper water supply lines
- If your water heater replacement is located in a location where leaking might cause damage to the floor or other elements of the home, lay a pan of an appropriate size beneath it (metal for gas water heaters). a drain tube that connects to a home drain or another suitable site must be installed in the pan (outdoors where permitted). If a leak might cause damage to the flooring, the discharge tube for the temperature and pressure relief valves must also connect to a drain. If routing is a problem, consult with your local plumbing inspector about possible solutions. Special straps should be used to secure your water heater to the wall if you reside in an earthquake-prone location (Fig. A
- Available at plumbing stores and home centers). If they are necessary, your plumbing inspector will inform you of this. Ensure that the new water temperature setting does not exceed 120 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid scorching
Water Heater Maintenance: How to Extend the Life of Your Hot Water Heater How to Repair a Leaking Water Heater Water Heater Installation Instructions on how to replace the TPR valve on a water heater Solar Water Heater Made at Home How to Repair or Replace Water Heater Dip Tubes That Are Defective How to Flush a Water Heater (with Pictures) The Process of Purchasing a New Water Heater 7 Myths About Tankless Water Heaters That You Should Never Believe The Advantages and Disadvantages of Tankless Water Heaters
How to solder pipe
|This page contains caution signs to help prevent possible problems.Remove flammables from work area Remember your water is turned OFF Soldering torch can cause fire.Run water hose from neighbor’s house and get ready.Get buckets of water ready. Fill bathtub.BE SAFE. Have class ABC fire extinguisher handyBuy:Gas safety cans at AmazonFire extinguishers|
|Use lead-free silver bearing solder||Gather materials: Elbows, couplings, male and/or female adaptersSandpaper.Tube cutter. Photo shows mini-cutter for tight locations.You can cut copper pipe with hack saw, or jig saw, but the pipe can bend and cut is jagged.Tube cutter makes smooth cut. Use mini cutter for tight locations.Buy:Tubing cutters at AmazonPlumbing solder kitPlumber’s solder’Under-counter’ water heaters generally have 1/2″ connections. Some have 1/4″ compression fittings, and do not need solder.’Whole-house’ water heaters have 3/4″ connections. It is usually easier to connect water heater using flexible copper lines, but flexible connections depend on rubber washer.Make sure water pressure does not exceed 80 psi, or damage can occur to plumbing and water heater.ResourceLow Water pressure|
|Soldering paste/ or flux Soldering paste is applied to pipes and fittings.Use stiff-bristled paste brush sold for paste.Do not use grease.Soldering paste looks and feels like grease but is not grease.Use lead-free solder pasteBuy:Soldering paste at Amazon|
|Use Lead Free solder Read label on side of solder: label must say product can be used for household water pipes.Do NOT use leaded solder for drinking water pipes.Buy:Lead free solder at AmazonSolder paste brush|
|Buy propane tank and torch tipExample shows propane tank with self-lighting tip Squeeze trigger and propane ignites, squeeze trigger again and torch turns off.Buy:Trigger start torches at AmazonPropane fuel cylinder at AmazonStriker at AmazonRemove torch tip from tank when finished to prevent leaking. Store propane outdoors when possible.|
|Sand ends of pipe Use sandpaper to sand end of pipes and inside fittingsThen wipe with dry rag to remove grit|
|Ream the inside of tube until smooth. Rough interor edges of tube can cause copper pipe errosion|
|Sand inside fittings Use finger to rotate sandpaper inside each fittingThen wipe with dry rag to remove grit|
|Sand solderto remove oxidation and dirt.If solder has been in toolbox for a while, it will get dirty and also turn dark color.|
|Apply soldering paste or flux Apply soldering paste completely around end of pipe using paste brush.Put paste wherever solder is going to stick.Solder will stick to pipe where solder paste is applied.Keep paste away from end of pipe so solder will not get into pipeSolder paste brush at AmazonDo not flip paste into eyes. Wear goggles, or move brush in direction away from eyes|
|Apply soldering paste inside fittings Apply soldering paste completely around inside offitting, but only where pipe is seated.Solder will stick where paste is applied.|
|Use metal shield Example shows pipes being soldered on workbench.Use piece of galvanized to protect other surfaces from catching fire.Plan ahead. Use metal shield to prevent fires. When working indoors, be sure to have water available in case fire starts. If water is turned off, then fill bucket with water, and keep cup and bucket nearby.|
|Risk of fire/ Use metal shield, keep water ready||Precautions / plan ahead, use common senseDo NOT solder pipes in attic or walls next to flammable insulation or paper or wood. Let professional, insured plumber handle job.Do NOT solder in same room where paint or gasoline is stored. Remove all flammable products, and air out room before lighting torch. Turn off gas line when working on water heater. Some flammable vapors such as gasoline and LP gas are heavier than air and hug the floor. Use nose to check for flammable vapors.Copper pipe is NOT used for gas line. For LP and NG gas: Use approved yellow flex line or black pipe. Natural gas and LP gas are reactive with copper pipe, and reactive to galvanized pipe.|
|Light torch using striker or match Flow of gas will blow out matchStriker is easiest way to light torch.BuyStriker at AmazonTo light torch with match: Turn gas ON at low flow.Then raise match part-way into gas from below.When gas ignites, blow out match, and turn gas flow up.To turn torch OFF, rotate knob until flame disappears.Remove torch tip from gas tank when finished to prevent leaks.Store propane tanks outside away from people.|
|Solder hasn’t melted yet||Heat copper fitting with torchFit connection together, then apply heat to copper fittingDo not heat solder. Once pipe is hot, then Position solder as shown at joint between pipe and fittingWhen pipe and fitting are hot enough, then solder will suddenly melt and flow wherever you put flux.Solder will suddenly melt and flow where you put solder paste There is no need to heat and solder ‘other side of joint’ because solder will flow completely around the joint and stick to surfaces where you put solder paste.This is why solder paste is important.Remember solder paste must be put all around the copper pipe, and around inside of copper fitting where pipe will seat.|
|Solder will flow around entire jointWhen the solder melts, it will flow immediately into the joint around entire pipe.Move solder briefly down each side to ensure solder flows all directions.Not much solder is needed.Wipe away excess solder with wet rag if possible, but this action is mostly for appearance.Move solder away after flow is observed.Let torch remain on joint for a moment to ensure full heating.Move torch to second joint.Entire length of pipe will be very hot.Solder will harden quickly after torch is removed.|
|Solder will flow around pipe and bond to copper where solder paste was applied.Joint is finished = move torch to second joint|
|Bad solder joint Bad solder joint: does not have uniform solder, and crack shows between pipe and fitting.Even small crack indicates bad solder joint.Bad joints must be replaced and cannot be re-solderedPipe and fitting must be dry.|
|Good and Bad solder joints Bad joints must be replaced and cannot be re-solderedInspect each joint. Bad joints must be replaced and cannot be re-solderedMake sure solder is uniform around entire pipe.Make sure there are no cracks or gaps between pipe and fitting.Causes for bad solder joint. Wrong solder paste. Wrong solder. Read product labels. Buy new solder and paste.No solder paste was used. Solder paste applied incorrectly. Read directions top of page.Copper not fully heated. Hold torchon copper longer before applying solder.Torch was used to heat solder instead of copper.Water between pipe and fitting.Water will not shut off when soldering Stuff white bread into pipe to temperorily halt small drip.Open other faucets to completely drain or divert water.Tip pipe to drain water, then tip pipe upwards to solder. Wipe water off pipe and joint.Make last solder joint on vertical coupling.|
|1/2″ male adapter is soldered to pipe. When cool, connect other fittings or connect shut off valve to adapter.||Solder each jointWhen first and second solder joints are finished, move to next joint.Solder will solidify very fast once torch is moved away.When soldering male and female adaptors, it is best to disconnect the adapter from appliance or shut off valve before soldering the fitting. This will prevent heat damage.For example with water heater, always solder adapters onto minimum 12″ of pipe, then screw adapter to water heater. This will prevent heat damage to water heater caused by torch.|
|Let pipe cool before connecting shut-off valve.||Finish soldering, let pipe cool, then connect shut offWhen copper is cool, connect other fittings like shut-off.This will prevent damage to shut off valve. For example, heat from torch might melt rubber washer inside shut-offDo not solder copper fittings that are directly connected to valves, water heaters, faucets etc.Heat from torch will damage appliances, and valves etc|
|Soldering inside wall Move all flammables.Keep water nearbyUse metal shield to protect against fireUse stick or wire to hold pipe in place so pipes do not move while soldering.Use wet rag and wipe away excess solder. Extra solder drips are not professional in appearance.Take reasonable precautions.Stay with pipe for several minutes until cool to make sure no fire has started. Notice wedged stick is located very close to soldered joint, and is touching hot pipe, but did not catch fire.Inspect solder joints to make sure solder fillscompletely around pipe.|
How to Install a Gas Hot Water Heater
A natural gas hot water heater is one of the most valuable investments you can make in your house. It is frequently less expensive to run than an electrical model, distributes on-demand supplies at a high rate, and recharges rapidly, allowing it to provide even more for those lengthy showers and baths that you like. Knowing how to install a gas hot water heater is a little more difficult than knowing how to install an electrical hot water heater. If you are unfamiliar with working with natural gas, this job should be delegated to a professional rather than being deemed a do-it-yourself project.
What Are Your Installation Considerations?
For water heaters with gas pipes and combustion venting, the first step is to look for energy and size parameters on their prior tanks, which may be found on the labels on the tank itself. Tanks constructed after 2015 feature better insulation, resulting in units that are physically larger while maintaining the same capacity. You’ll need to take measurements of the space where the old water heater is located. Alternatively, if it was installed prior to 2015, evaluate the specs of the most recent model to see whether there is sufficient room.
You’ll need to check with your local utilities, municipal government, or other officials to make sure the job is legal.
Steps to Follow When Installing a Gas Hot Water Heater
Installing a natural gas hot water heater can be a time-consuming task, but following these steps can make the process go more swiftly and effectively. Please do not attempt to work on the gas lines unless you have received the required training and certification.
1. Drain the tank of your water heater.
This unit’s water supply will need to be turned off before you proceed. In addition, the control valve must be in the off position. It is at this point that you can switch off the gas supply. Turn on the nearest faucet and let the hot water to drain until the water is no longer boiling. Once this is done, connect a garden hose to the drain valve and dump the leftover water down the drain, into buckets, or another safe location outside the house.
2. Disconnect the lines.
After checking that the gas supply to the hot water heater has been turned off, you’ll need to connect the gas line using the proper equipment to complete the installation. If the pipe is made of black iron, this procedure should be completed at the union fitting. Afterwards, disconnect the water pipes that run above the tank. If the pipe has a soldered connection, you’ll need to cut the pipe with a tube cutter to finish this step.
Once those responsibilities are completed, you must disconnect any gas pipe that is still connected to the gas valve. It is recommended that the sediment trap and tank tee be left in place if the tank is built of black iron.
3. Detach the exhaust.
You can see the exhaust from your natural gas water heater as it extends beyond the house. It is necessary to remove the screws that hold this pipe to the water heater in place. Once it has been unplugged, try to visually check the components for corrosion or rust, replacing any flue that appears to be in bad condition if necessary. You are now able to properly dispose of your outdated hot water heater.
4. Install the new gas water heater.
Make sure that the new water heater is positioned so that you have easy access to the controls and the gas burner. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and local code standards, which include the minimum clearances required for combustible goods and other flammable products. To finish the installation, use a level and shims as needed to ensure a level surface. It is now possible to attach the flue hat to the exhaust vent after it is completed. To comply with current building code standards, you must utilize a non-metallic plastic vent pipe.
This step may entail measuring and cutting the lines to the desired length before continuing.
It also helps to sweat the threaded fittings first, since they are more susceptible to corrosion.
After that, solder using a propane torch after applying flux and assembling the parts.
The Final Step Is to Connect the Gas Supply
With a wire brush and a rag, clean the threads of the gas line before connecting it to the tank. When joining black pipe threads, use thread seal tape or pipe compound to keep the threads from corroding. If you’re using an installation kit, make sure you follow the directions that come with it. To assemble and tighten the fittings, you’ll need two pipe wrenches. It is best to install the union fitting last since it will be the connection between the new line and the current source. To secure the flare connection, use a pipe joint compound that is approved for natural gas use.
That’s how you go about installing a gas hot water heater in your home.
Explore Pipes and Water Heaters
Ask yourself questions such, “Is PEX pipe better than copper?” and “Does PEX pipe require insulation?” when you begin to consider the possibility of building a home for yourself. Myron Ferguson discusses the numerous types of plumbing systems that are utilized in new house building, as well as some of the potential concerns that you should be aware of. This article is an extract from his book Build It Right: What to Look for in Your New Home, which you can purchase here. Many decades have passed since water pipes were composed of iron, which had corrosion issues and had a limited life span.
Then came copper pipe, which, while more expensive, had such significant benefits over iron pipe that it was eventually phased out of use.
In this post, we will discuss the many types of water pipes, their advantages and disadvantages, as well as the two distinct types of drain pipes.
Plumbing designs are usually plain and uncomplicated, unless you desire anything uncommon, such as circulating hot water, in your system.
If you have the opportunity to check this in the model house, do do. You should also make sure that the hose bibbs on the outside of the house are easily accessible and are not positioned in a place where growing plants will make it difficult to get to them.
Copper Pipes Vs. Plastic Pipes (PEX Pipes, PB Pipes) – Which Type Of Pipe Is Right For Your New Home?
While copper has traditionally been the most prevalent form of pipe used in new construction, numerous varieties of plastic are becoming increasingly popular. The plumbing industry has been slow to adapt to the new technology, but three types of plastic pipes have already been certified by a number of building code organizations, including the Council of American Building Officials (CABO), whose regulations serve as the foundation for many state codes. It should be noted, however, that certain governments are taking their time in approving the use of plastic pipe in residential buildings.
- You’ll need to look up the state codes in your area.
- There was a severe problem with polybutylene (PB) connections, which resulted in a large number of lawsuits due to the damage done to homes as a result of leaking PB joints.
- Cross-linked polyethylene has been available for many years, but its broad usage has been hampered by a general aversion to the material’s chemical properties.
- Copper PipesCopper is the preferred material for plumbing subcontractors, despite the fact that installing copper pipe requires more skill than installing plastic pipe.
- There have been instances of pin hole leaks in copper pipe in southern California, which are thought to be caused by chemicals in the water supply.
- Pipes made of plastic |
- CPVC, in contrast to PVC, does not soften when exposed to hot water.
When installed by a qualified professional, the installation times for CPVC and PVC are nearly identical.
Polybutylene pipes and cross-linked polyethylene pipes are similar in that they both require special fittings that are neither soldered nor cemented but are mechanical in nature.
Flexible polybutylene and cross-linked polyethylene tubes and pipes enable them to be used in a variety of various ways, each of which has distinct advantages, both during installation and later on in the home’s use.
Each output is connected to an uncut length of pipe that connects to a single outlet, such as a faucet, dishwasher, toilet, tub, shower, or washing machine, depending on the configuration.
As a result, installation durations are shorter than those required for copper pipes, and costs are cheaper in terms of both materials and labor.
(WIRSBO, a producer of PEX, provides a twenty-five-year warranty if the installation is completed by a licensed plumber, and a one-year warranty if the installation is completed by the homeowner.) The fact that each line coming from the manifold has just one faucet means that turning on a second faucet has minimal effect on the flow of water to the one that is currently flowing.
As a result, if you are having a shower and someone switches on a faucet somewhere else, it will have very little effect on the volume or temperature of the water in your shower. Both PB and PEX have been certified for use with hot and cold water, respectively.
Make certain that the water heater is appropriate for your household. For the most part, contractors will go for the smallest (and least expensive) heater that is permitted by code. When you need hot water quickly, you have two options: recirculating hot water or an auxiliary hot water tank. Recirculating hot water is a type of hot water that circulates through a system. Hot Water that is recirculated You are probably already familiar with the concept of re-circulating hot water—or have you ever wondered how you obtained hot water in your hotel room so quickly?
- One pipe transports hot water from the heater to the faucets, while the other transports any remaining water back to the heating system.
- If the pipe is made of copper, it must be insulated in both directions.
- According to WIRSBO, this is not essential with their PEX.
- There is an up-front expense for installing the system, as well as a continuing cost for the power required to keep it running.
- It is possible that you may recoup some of the initial investment because you will no longer be wasting water by running the water until it is hot (as previously).
It is desirable to utilize plastic piping in recirculating hot water systems because it is simple to install, does not have the potential noise concerns associated with copper, and works as an insulator in its own right.Auxiliary Hot Water Vanity counter-mounted water heaters, which are small and compact, may supply hot water almost immediately.
As with other hot water heaters, you’ll need to have gas or electricity delivered to the place where the heater will be installed.
WaterPipes and Outside Walls
Because of the risk of freezing, a smart house design will reduce the number of water pipe runs that run along the outside walls, although small lines of pipe are frequently found in these areas for kitchen and vanity sinks. Generally speaking, the outside walls of newer homes are well-insulated. In order for water pipes to be properly installed in these walls, it is critical that the pipes be routed toward the interior of rather than the outside of the walls. The wall insulation must also be built so that the majority of it is between the pipes and the outside wall and little or none is between the pipes and the interior wall, among other things.
Plumbers and insulation installers are aware of this and typically install insulation in this manner. However, it’s not a bad idea to double-check.
Protect Your Pipes And House | Nail Plates
Pipes that pass through studs or plates are constantly at risk of being pierced by wallboard fasteners, which are nails or screws that are 1 1/4- to 1 5/8-inches long and are pushed into studs behind the wallboard, according to the manufacturer. When the wallboard is installed, the installer will be unable to see where the pipes are located. Plumbers are required to add pieces of galvanized sheet metal, known as “nail plates” or “safety plates,” on the exterior of studs or plates in order to prevent the wallboard installer from accidentally driving a nail or screw through the pipe when installing the wallboard.
Beyond the apparent problem of a leak that happens immediately, badly positioned or missing nail plates can result in subtle problems that may not be noticed for several years after the first leak.
Another scenario is that a wallboard screw will enter a water or drain pipe, but the screw itself will act as a stopper until it rusts out a few years after the first incident occurred.
This type of guarantee is usually only valid for one or two years after the construction is completed.
The way in which water and drain pipes are installed might help you to lessen the amount of noise they produce. Try this experiment while you’re visiting model homes: have your spouse turn on a faucet at one end of the house and listen to see if you can hear water flowing through another end of the house. It goes without saying that some houses are substantially better than others in this regard. When water is going through a pipe and it comes into contact with wood, the water becomes louder because the wood acts as a sounding board.
Plastic pipe used in water distribution systems offers a number of extra advantages in this application.
Additionally, copper will more quickly transmit noise along the pipe than will plastic.
Noise from the second-floor drain pipes can be reduced to a significant extent if iron pipes are covered with insulation.
Iron pipe, on the other hand, rusts, so be sure you know how long it will last in your location before having it put. Wrapping either iron or plastic with fiberglass insulation will assist to reduce the amount of noise produced.
Hose bibbs should be installed on the exterior of your home. The majority of contractors install two: one in the front and one in the back. This is insufficient for the majority of us. If you have an RV pad, it is recommended that you install a hose bibb there. In any event, having a second hose bibb on at least one side of the home is a convenient feature to have. Bibbs, which are linked to both hot and cold water, should be put in the garage if you need to wash your car while it is still warm.
- The typical faucet that is used to combine hot and cold water has a restriction on the volume of water that may be sent through it.
- Make it clear where you want the hose bibbs to be installed, either in writing or with a design.
- hose bibbs must be equipped with a method of draining the water from them in the winter in regions where there is a risk of water freezing in them, according to plumbing rules.
- Both are acceptable.
- These valves are situated in an easily accessible, warm location where there is no chance of the valves becoming frozen.
- The “waste” portion of the valve is a stopper that may be removed to allow water to drain.
- In the fall, the home user must do the following:
- Close the stop-and-waste valve to turn off the water supply. Open the hose bibb and make sure that any hoses that may be attached are properly secured
- Alternatively, if the bibb and pipe do not drain on their own, the waste plug must be removed in order for the water to drain
The technique described above must be reversed in the spring. Unfortunately, not all plumbers adhere to the code to the letter, and not all inspectors ensure that they are doing so. There are far too many instances when the stop-and-waste valve is installed in a location where it is difficult to reach, rendering it essentially ineffective. You should insist on having the stop-and-waste valves installed where you can readily access them and that the pipes drain by simply opening the hose bibb if your builder or plumber does not agree that frost-proof hose bibbs are a good idea.
A piece of copper pipe is included in the frost-proof bibb as part of the bibb itself.
The water drains from the exposed section of the hose bibb when it is turned off, and no harm is done to the bibb.
Hoses with closed nozzles are sometimes left connected, resulting in the water being unable to drain.
This has happened frequently enough that certain plumbers in some areas have developed an aversion to using these bibbs at all. When utilized properly, they can successfully reduce difficulties associated with freezing.