How To Change Water Pump On Evinrude Outboard

How to Change the Impeller in an Evinrude Motor

In order to circulate water through the engine passageways and manifold of the Evinrude marine outboard motor, a water pump is installed in the lower unit case. The water pump keeps the motor’s operating temperatures within normal working ranges. Replace the rubber impeller inside the water pump using a process that is essentially the same for both long- and short- shaft motors in most cases. Because different boat models differ in terms of layout and design, you should keep a boat owner’s repair handbook on hand.

Step 1

If your boat is still on the trailer, use wheel chocks to keep it from rolling around. With a socket, disconnect the negative battery cable from your marine battery, and then remove the ignition key from the battery. The mounting nuts that hold the lower unit case to the upper unit case should be found. Small engines may only have two bolts, however bigger engines may have four or five bolts, depending on their size. Remove the bolts by loosening them using a socket of the appropriate size. Allow an assistance to assist you in lowering the case by about an inch or two.

Step 2

The shifting rod that reaches down into the lower case should be found here. Removing the little coupler bolt that connects the two shifting rods and pulling the coupler out should be sufficient. Remove the lower unit from the upper casing by pulling it down and away from it. To remove the bottom unit from the truck, place it on its side on a work table and allow any gear oil to drain into a small pan. Remove the two or three bolts on the top of the impeller casing using a socket and lift the casing up and over the drive shaft to release the impeller.

Step 3

It’s important to note if the rubber impeller blades within the casing are spinning left or right. Pull the impeller out, taking care not to lose the shaft key, if it is equipped with one, during the process. Carburetor cleaner and a cloth are used to clean the inside bore of the impeller housing’s inner bore. Using petroleum jelly, lubricate the inside of the container. Insert the replacement impeller into the top casing, ensuring that the blades are oriented correctly. If the impeller is equipped with a shaft key, insert it into the shaft key hole.

Step 4

With a gasket scraper, clean the top and lower impeller case mating surfaces of the impeller case. Replace the gasket on the upper casing with the new one. Slide the top casing down over the drive shaft, making that it is aligned with the mounting holes on the drive shaft. The mounting bolts should be screwed into the top case and tightened using a socket wrench. Make use of your aid to assist you in transporting the bottom unit back to your boat.

Step 5

Place the lower unit upright and supported up with wood blocks so that the lower unit is aligned with the top of the higher unit. While your assistant is raising the engine, position the drive shaft so that it fits snugly into the spline sprocket on the transmission. Meanwhile, guide the input water tube so that it will sit properly in the seal it is intended to seal. Maintain a one-inch or more space between the upper and lower unit cases by raising the engine to a higher position. Carefully position the shift rods and connect the coupler to them using a precision alignment tool.

Insert the coupler bolt into the coupler and tighten it using a socket wrench. Make use of your assistance to raise the lower unit case higher while you inspect the alignment of the water intake tube. When the cases are flush with one another, immediately screw in the mounting bolts by hand. and

  • To align the drive shaft with its spline seat when it is difficult to do so, twist the propeller blade until the shaft glides into the spline seat. It is possible that an inspection plate is located on the side of the upper case that must be removed in order to disconnect the shift linkage. Seek guidance from your owner’s handbook on the proper removal technique.

What You’ll Need to Get Started

  • Wheel chocks, a boat owner’s repair handbook, a socket set, a ratchet wrench, an assistant, a drain pan, Vaseline, a gasket scraper, carburetor cleaner, rags, wood blocks, and gear oil are all useful items to have on hand.

Biographical InformationChris Stevenson has been writing professionally since 1988. For more than 35 years, he has worked in the automobile industry, and in 1990, he published the car repair guidebook “Auto Repair Shams and Scams.” P.D.S Toyota certification, American Society of Automotive Engineers brake certification, Clean Air Act certification, and a California smog license are among Stevenson’s credentials.

More Articles

1.Inspect the water tubes to ensure that they are clean and free of impediments. 2.Apply lubricant to the grommets on the water tube pickups. Make that the lower unit is properly aligned with the top exhaust housing, and that the drive shaft is inserted into the appropriate guide hole while simultaneously guiding the water tube into the rubber grommet on the water pump housing. When the driveshaft reaches the bottom of the power head, twist the flywheel to bring the splines on the powerhead into alignment with the splines on the driveshaft.

At this point, do not tighten any of the hardware.

How to Replace the Water Pump on a 60HP Johnson Boat Motor

Remove the lower section of your 60-horsepower outboard engine and check the condition of the water pump – and replace it if required – once a year or every 100 hours, depending on how much time you spend on the water. If it becomes necessary to replace it, the procedure is uncomplicated. You must first remove the bottom unit in order to obtain access to the water pump, after which you must remove the pump and make the necessary repairs with the parts provided in a pump replacement kit.

Items you will need

  • Screwdriver, 5/8-inch open-end wrench, 1/4-inch open-end wrench, water pump repair kit, and marine grease are all included.

Remove the nut from the “NEG” battery post on the negative battery terminal. The cable should be lifted away from the battery post and moved away from the battery. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screws that hold the lower engine covers together and set them aside. Remove the shift lever shaft nut and the shift rod from the shift lever by loosening the nut. Using a 5/8-inch open-end wrench, remove the four bolts that hold the lower unit in place, two on each side of the lower unit. Remove the lower unit from the vehicle.

Locate a workstation where the lower unit may be placed upright.

Move the slider to the right.

  • “Johnson Repair Manual 2.5 to 250 HP Models, 2002-2007”
  • Seloc Marine
  • 2007
  • “Johnson Repair Manual 2.5 to 250 HP Models, 2002-2007”

Biography of the Author Will Charpentier is a writer who specializes in topics related to boats and the marine environment.

Charpentier, a retired ship captain, holds a degree in applied ocean science and engineering from the University of British Columbia. He is also a trained marine technician and the author of a popular manual on writing local history, which has been translated into several languages.

How to Replace the Water Pump on an 35 HP Evinrude Outboard

The performance of your 35 hp Evinrude may suffer if the water pump is not given the proper TLC – delicate loving care – it needs and deserves. Every time you operate your motor, examine the water intake grate and remove any aquatic flora and fauna that may have gotten stuck in the opening. Inspection of your water pump’s condition after the first 20 hours of operation and then again at 100 hours should be performed during the boating season; the pump should be cleaned and adjusted, and it should be lubricated as needed.

Items you will need

  • White marine oil
  • Lower unit gear lubrication
  • Needle bearing grease. 5/8-inch socket with thin wall
  • Gasket sealing compound. Torque wrench
  • Thread locker
  • Nutdriver

Remove the four bolts holding the water pump cover to the driveshaft with a thin-walled 5/8-inch socket and slide the cover off the driveshaft to release the water pump. The impeller drive pin should be removed from the driveshaft, and the impeller plate should be moved away from the driveshaft. Clear the plate and bottom unit of any residual gasket material or sealant by wiping them off. The water tube grommet should be removed from the top of the pump housing. Apply gasket sealing compound to the O-ring in the impeller housing, the water tube grommet, and the outside rim of the metal casing of the new driveshaft seal to ensure that they are well sealed.

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Clean the inside of the water tube grommet and lightly coat it with white marine grease before installing the O-ring on the big water tube.

  • “Evinrude Repair Manual – 2.5 to 250 HP Models, 2001-2009”
  • Seloc
  • 2009
  • “Evinrude Repair Manual – 2.5 to 250 HP Models, 2001-2009”

Biography of the Author Will Charpentier is a writer who specializes in topics related to boats and the marine environment. Charpentier, a retired ship captain, holds a degree in applied ocean science and engineering from the University of British Columbia. He is also a trained marine technician and the author of a popular manual on writing local history, which has been translated into several languages. Full Power Plus Johnson Evinrude Outboard Water Pump Kit Replacement 5001595 with Housing 75-250HP : Automotive

The product was reviewed in the United States on August 17, 2020, and it was verified as a purchase. I made the mistake of going for the cheapest option. Man, did that cost me a lot of money. The equipment was complete, however there was a problem: the impeller was spinning on the bushing. You will be completely unaware of this. It is unlikely that you will notice anything other than the fact that the pump is not pumping. A number of occasions, you will take something apart and put it back together again.

There was no way I could return since, as I already stated, I dismantled it ten times, convinced that I was doing something incorrectly.

On April 22, 2021, a review was published in the United States of America. It didn’t work for me at all. Alarms for low water pressure over the whole RPM range, as well as over-temperature warnings When I replaced the old pump with a new OEM pump, I got 5 psi at idle.

Guide to Replacing Your Outboard Marine Water Pump

Please keep in mind that this is not a comprehensive guide on replacing a marine water pump. Always refer to your boat’s instruction manual or the manufacturer’s website for model-specific information. The motor water pump is a critical component of any outboard engine, yet the majority of people can’t recall the last time they had their water pump repaired, let alone completely replaced. That being the case, it’s probably time to replace the device in question. The use of marine engine cooling pumps and water pump impellers can assist to extend the life of the engine in your outboard boat.

How to detect whether a water pump is faulty and how to replace it when the time comes are topics we’ll be discussing today.

How to Tell if a Water Pump Is Bad

The impeller of the engine’s water pump is often the most prevalent source of water circulation and overheating problems. This tiny, round disc is equipped with spinning blades that assist in the movement of water throughout the outboard motor’s circuit. When it fails, the flow of water is interrupted, resulting in an overheated engine as a result. Causes:

  1. The outboard motor is overheating
  2. It has to be replaced. The impeller is on borrowed time
  3. He is wasting his life. It appears that the stream of water coming from the cooling water outflow has been lowered
  1. The Outboard Engine Is Overheating: When the water temperature around your outboard motor begins to rise, it is a reason for concern. In addition, if the motor is unable to create a consistent stream of water once it has achieved the proper working temperature, one of two possible explanations is most likely the impeller, which is most likely significantly worn or broken in some way. While it is unusual, wasps can also be a problem since they like to burrow in the cooling water exit during the winter. The Impeller Is Living on Borrowed Time: The Impeller is living on borrowed time. Each spring, as you prepare your boat engine’s water pump, make sure to thoroughly examine the impeller. The impeller of your marine engine’s water pump has a service life of around 300 operational hours or three years, whichever comes first, according to the manufacturer. If you haven’t replaced the impeller in a long time or if you haven’t changed the impeller in a long time,

How to Replace an Outboard Water Pump

Outboard motors are more dependable than they have ever been. Parts and components will, however, need to be replaced on a regular basis, just as they would with any other motor. Every year or every 100 running hours, whichever comes first, it is advised that you examine the impeller of your marine water pump. A detailed maintenance plan for your outboard water pump may be found in the operator’s handbook for the particular model you have. It is easier to detect problems with your raw water pump if you inspect it on a regular basis and check it thoroughly.

How to Remove and Replace an Old Engine Water Pump:

  1. Put the Motor in Reverse: First, put your motor in reverse gear
  2. Then, put your motor in neutral. Remove the bolts from the nut. Disconnect the Shift Rod as follows: Remove the mounting bolts that hold the bottom unit to the middle, as well as any bolts that are hidden behind the trim tab, before proceeding to step three. To ensure that you install the bolts accurately, it’s a good idea to indicate the location of the bolts before removing them. Then, remove the shift rod from the vehicle. The fact that not all shift rods disengage in the same manner should not be overlooked. Some disconnect below the swivel bracket, while others disconnect by the powerhead, and yet others disengage above the gearbox. Refer to your product’s instruction booklet for particular product instructions. Remove the Lower Unit and Bolts from the vehicle: After you’ve removed the shift rod, you’ll want to remove the bottom unit from the vehicle.

Keep Your Outboard Engine in Peak Operating Condition With the Help of BoatRV Accessories

We at BoatRV Accessories take great satisfaction in offering clients the most comprehensive range of marine engine cooling pumps, water pump impellers, and other related products. The use of high-quality components and accessories that you can rely on is critical in keeping your engine functioning properly. Everything fromJohnson Pump marine water pumps to JMP Marine impellers can be found exclusively at BoatRV Accessories, as can the things you want from the companies you trust. Do you need assistance in identifying the best product for your watercraft?

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Replacing An Outboard’s Water Pump

1. In order to get access to the water pump, the gearcase must be dropped and the mounting nuts removed. Outboard water pumps are made in a straightforward manner. They’re conveniently located on top of the lower gearcase assembly, making them simple to reach and maintain. The pump is equipped with a rubber impeller that is linked to the engine’s driveshaft. Flow of water into the lower gearcase is accomplished by inlets located on the sidewalls of the gearcase, directly above the region of the propeller shaft.

The pump pumps water up into the housing by drawing it via the intakes.

As the driveshaft rotates, the impeller blades (vanes) come into contact with the housing liner at lower speeds; however, as the engine revs up, the impeller blades bend back away from the housing liner. The pump is responsible for delivering water.

Backyard Mechanic

Purchase a manufacturer service manual for your engine so that you can certain that you are following the correct process and using the proper materials. It takes no more than an hour or so to remove the gearcase, replace the pump, and reinstall the gearcase on the engine once it is removed. Disconnecting the shift shaft on certain outboards is the most difficult aspect of the gearcase removal process. For example, on most Mercurys, the engine must first be put into forward gear before it can be started.

Temporarily disconnecting the shift cable at the engine end will also make things a lot simpler, especially on engines with the shift shaft disconnect located inside the cowling.

Stand It Up

Installing the lower unit on a work stand is recommended. Clamping the skeg tightly in a vice may suffice; however, protecting the finish by cushioning the jaws of the vise with a cloth or other soft material can be beneficial in this situation. You may now remove the old water pump from the unit after it has been secured.

See also:  How To Tell If Your Outboard Water Pump Is Bad


It is important to remember that the gearcase must be in the proper gear before installing it. You shouldn’t have moved the shift rod at all when fixing the water pump, is what I’m saying. When reinstalling the unit, make sure you do the following:

  • After cleaning the top of the drive shaft, dab a little quantity of marine oil on the splines — NOT on the top — and allow it to dry completely. Greasing the top of the shaft may hinder the shaft from correctly fitting inside the crankshaft. The splines will be easier to remove the next time the gearcase is removed if they are greased.
  • Make certain that the exhaust adapter is appropriately positioned in the middle of the vehicle.
  • While moving the unit up into the middle, check to see that the drive shaft, shift shaft, and water tube are all in the appropriate positions before continuing. It is also important to ensure that the water tube reaches the top of the water pump properly
  • If it does not, the engine will not receive cooling water and will overheat as a result.
  • Start the engine and check to see that it is pumping water, running properly at the right temperature, and shifting correctly when the installation is complete and the shift shaft and shift cable have been linked. Additionally, consider servicing the engine’s thermostats at the same time, to ensure that the complete cooling system is refreshed and ready for service

General Tips

Follow the instructions for replacing the water pump in the factory handbook to the letter, paying close attention to any cautions or warnings that are included. Some broad guidelines that apply to most water pumps, regardless of brand or engine size, are as follows:

  • Clear the intake passages and the top of the gearcase around the pump using compressed air to ensure that there is no debris in the system. Using an air pistol with an extended tip to reach deep into the intake passageways and blow away any collected sand or silt may save time and effort when replacing the pump and impeller plate. In order to clean any debris from the brass water tube in the middle of the engine, blow compressed air into it.
  • When the handbook specifies which sealants to use, follow the instructions.
  • To ensure appropriate rotation (clockwise) while inserting the impeller into the housing, first ensure that the impeller is turned (clockwise)
  • Next, while still rotating the impeller, install it into the housing while turning it so that the blades compress in the proper direction.
  • When fitting the impeller into the housing, dab a small amount of non-petroleum-based oil over the blades of the impeller to ensure that it is somewhat pre-lubricated when the engine is restarted once it has been fully reassembled. Additionally, this facilitates the process of squeezing the blades into the housing.
  • Take care not to over-torque the housing screws, otherwise you risk cracking the housing and causing a leak later on, which might result in overheating.
  • Draining, checking, and refilling the gear lubricant is a good idea once you’ve finished with the pump installation, so do it right away.


BoatUS Magazine is a publication to which I contribute. John Tiger is a freelance boating writer who contributes to a variety of periodicals on a regular basis.

BoatUS Magazine Is A Benefit Of BoatUS Membership

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This is a brand new section on BBC. Rusty63(John Laws) andSeahorsewill be providing Tips on how to maintain your Johnson/Evinrude motor.Stay tuned.there will be more Tips to come!
Updated December 26/05
*Click on thumbnails for larger photos. *
Water Pump Impeller ReplacementThis is a step-by-step procedure to replace the water pump impeller in most Johnson or Evinrude V4 or V6 outboard motors.These instructions will not work on a 60 degree motor (Intruder/Faststrike) as the shifter has a different connector.
***Safety Notice : Remove all spark plug wires from spark plugs, remove key from ignition and remove kill switch before getting started.
1.Shift the motor into reverse, you will have to spin the prop by hand, DO NOT FORCE THESHIFTER!You need to remove the shifter pin, it is located below the carburetors in the front of theintake. It is hard to see on some motors but if you look in from the left side you should be able to see it.A 1/4 inch drive ratchet, long extension, swivel and 3/8 inch socket will aid in the removal.
The air box has been removed on this motor to get a better picture.
4.This is the water pump housing; removethe four bolts from the housing.
5.On some models there is an O-ring at the top of the drive shaft, remove it if yours is equipped then remove the water pump housing.
6.This model has the metal impeller key, on most models this key is nolonger used, this is only true if the drive shaft has the flat keyway in thedrive shaft.
7.Notice that the impeller is in the housing with a counter-clockwise twist, this is important when you install the new impeller as it must beinstalled this way.
8.This is the replacement impeller kit and its contents; it also includes the instructions on how to install the new plastic impeller key, o-ring and impeller.
10.Hold the impeller with a pair of pliers and rotate it into the impeller housing with a counter-clockwise motion, I like to align the impeller key opening to the back of the housing to aid with the installation of the key.
11.Install the impeller o-ring on the drive shaft and slide it down to the water pump plate.
12.Apply some grease or other compound to hold the key to the shaft while installing the water pump housing; make sure the key is positioned correctly.
13.Slide the housing down the drive shaft and use a small screwdriver to hold the key while installing the housing.
15.Reinstall the top drive shaft O-ring (if equipped).
17.Move the boat shift handle to Forward gear.
18.Push down on the gear case shift rod and turn the propeller to shift the gear case into reverse gear.
19.Apply a small amount of BRP Moly lube to the drive shaft splines and slide gear case back into the midsection.
** Caution!The water tubeMUSTbe aligned in the water pump housing.Failure to align the water tube can cause damage to the water tube,waterpump housing and will cause the motor to run hot, resulting in power head damage.
20.As you slide the gear case on you will have to spin the propeller to engage the crankshaft splines.
21. Reinstall the gear case bolts and tighten securely.
22.Reinstall the shifter bolt, this may take two people and some time, when the bolt is installed correctly the shift handle will operate as normal, if not correctly installed the gear case will not shift.The shifter bolt must be inserted through the hole in the shift rod.
23.Reinstall plug wires, attach kill switch lanyard, attach water hose and start motor to verify water flow from water pump and shifting.
** Caution!Spinning propellers are a Safety Hazard that can cause injury.
I would like to Thank Dwayne and Jason for their help with this.John.
Trim Motor or Trim Unit ReplacementHow to replace the trim motor or trim unit on a Fastrack midsection (1991 and newer).
1.Trim the motor up to the full tilt position, if the unit will not trim you will need to release the manual release valve located in the port (left) transom bracket.Be careful as the motor will drop to the ground when the valve is released. The valve must be turned counterclockwise fully butonlyuntil it touches the clip ring hold it in.
2.The motor can now be lifted to the full tilt position, use the service bracket on the starboard (right) side to support the motor.
Make sure the bracket is fully rotated and the motor is at full tilt.
3.On the port (left) side of the motor locate the connectors for the trimmotor, trim limit switch and trim sender.
Now for the fun part.The trim harness connector is a bit more difficult to get apart and a few bad words may be used.keep all women and small children out of earshot during this process.
6.Remove the wire cover from the wires, remove the 2 bolts from the trim sender (Pic) and move the sender out of the way.
Pull the trim motor wires through the mounting bracket, remove the clips from the pins that hold the trim unit in, upper and lower and remove the pins (following 4 pics).
If you are removing the trim unit this point you will need to lower the tilt rod, this will need to be done by lowering the motor by hand, this will take 2 people Be careful as the motor is heavy,keep hands out of pinch points .Lift the motor and release the service bracket, lower the motor to retract the tilt rod; it only needs to be retracted a few inches. Raise the motor back to full tilt position and engage the service bracket.
If you are only changing the trim motor, remove the 4 mounting bolts paying attention to the ground strap on the starboard (right) rear bolt.Place a drain pan to catch any spilled trim fluid and remove the trim motor.
Ready the new trim motor for installation, install the new 0-ring.
Reinstall the wire cover and wires in the connectors; use the plugs on the motor side for wire color orientation, reconnect the plugs to the motor harness.
Install lower pin and cir clip, depress the trim up button to center the hole in swivel bracket with hole in tilt rod, reinstall upper pin and clip.Keep hands out of pinch points .
Depress trim up button and raise motor, disengage the service bracket and lower motor. Reinstall port (left) motor pan; be sure not to pinch wires or speedometer hose.
Raise the motor to full tilt position and top off the trim reservoir with BRP trim fluid. Cycle the motor up and down a few times and recheck the trim fluid.
These instructions are for the “Do It Yourself” type of boater; if this is not you, Please seeyour dealer.


Time required for repair: 1 to 2 hours The difficulty of the repair is easyaddedupdated KITS FOR WATER PUMPS (5001595, 5007972) INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLATION Outboard motors manufactured by BRP Marine


This item may only be installed by an authorized Evinrude®/Johnson® dealer due to the high level of safety involved. This instruction booklet is not intended to serve as a substitute for practical job experience. Another source of useful information is available in other service-related books. DO NOT begin any work until you have thoroughly read and comprehended the instructions provided above. The tightening criteria for torque wrenches must be rigorously followed at all times. 5001594 Remove any locking fasteners (lock tabs, locknuts, or patch screws) that must be removed and replace them with new ones as soon as possible.

The use of inferior parts may result in an injury or a malfunction of the product.

When working with power tools, always remember to wear EYE PROTECTION as well as the appropriate GLOVES. When conducting this service, the engine must be turned off unless otherwise noted. Always keep an eye out for danger.

WATER PUMP KITS (Evinrude 75 – 300 HP)

5001595Water Pump Repair Kit5007972Water Pump Repair Kit Kit for repairing a water pump0338484 The gasket for the impeller plate is part number 0338485. Plate, impeller housing plate (stainless steel)0331353Seal, impeller housing plate (stainless steel)0331353 5001593 Impeller assy0331070Key, Impeller0338486Cup, Impeller (stainless)0331188O-ring, Cup to housing5007968O-ring, Cup to housing5007968O-ring, Cup to housing Housing for the Impeller0314008 Covering the grommet and the water tube The part number is 0346865O-ring, water tube.

The grommet that connects the pump to the exhaust housing0349354 models0338601 have a grommet and a 20″ sleeve.

Step 1:Disassembly

To unlock the impeller key, rotate the driveshaft in the counterclockwise direction. Remove the four screws that hold the impeller housing together. Remove the water pump from the driveshaft by sliding it off. Remove the impeller key, the O-ring, the impeller plate, and the gasket from the impeller. Make sure the gasket surface is clean and smooth before installing it.

Step 2:Install O-ring in impeller housing groove

Apply a drop of Adhesive 847 to the seal ring groove at each of the four ribs, starting with the outermost rib. Allowing any glue to enter the air bleed groove in the impeller housing is strictly prohibited. If the glue becomes stuck in this groove, the pump will lose its prime and will not be able to pump water. Install the O-ring in the groove of the impeller housing.

Step 3:Prepare impeller housing

Apply a thin layer of Gasket Sealing Compound to the external rim of the impeller cup’s outer rim. The cup should be installed in the impeller housing. A square index tab holds the cup in position in the housing while it is being used. Check to see that the vent hole in the impeller cup is open. When installing the water tube grommet on outboard models with a 1/2-inch diameter water tube, make sure the inner taper of the grommet faces up. In the case of outboard models with a 5/8-inch diameter water tube, a light application of Triple-Guard grease should be applied to both the inside of the impeller housing water tube chamber and the o-rings on the water tube.

Remove the water tube from the exhaust housing on outboard models with a 5/8-inch diameter water tube and install a new one.

Step 4:Install impeller housing cover and grommet

The impeller housing cover should be installed after applying Triple-Guard lubricant to the screw threads. Screws should be tightened to a torque of 24 to 36 in. lbs (3 to 4 Nm). Adhesive 847 should be applied to the flat side of the impeller housing grommet. Install the grommet with the flat side facing up.

Step 5:Install impeller into liner

Triple-Guard oil should be lightly applied to the interior of the liner.

Install the impeller into the liner in a counterclockwise direction, with the slot for the impeller key facing outward, using a counterclockwise rotation. After installing the custom shaped O-ring seal, apply a tiny bead of Adhesive 847 to the seal groove and allow it to dry completely.

Step 6:Install plate and water pump assembly

Gasket Sealing should be used. Glue a new impeller plate gasket to both sides of the old one using compound. Install the gasket and impeller plate in their respective positions. A new impeller O-ring should be greased with Triple-Guard grease. Installed impeller key should be temporarily held in place by sliding an O-ring down the driveshaft and half way over it. In clockwise rotation, the leading edge of the key is the sharp edge of the key. Slide the water pump down the driveshaft as far as possible.

Rotate the driveshaft to align the key with the impeller, then move the water pump down over the key to complete the operation.

Check to see that the impeller key is engaged by the impeller.

Align the impeller housing with the gearcase by turning the impeller housing clockwise.

Step 7:Install water tube sleeve and grommet

Grommet, P/N 349354, to be installed on the housing cover of 20-inch outboard versions (excluding 60-degree V4 and V6). The proper water tube sleeve and grommet should be installed on the impeller housing cover of 25- and 30-inch outboard motors respectively.

Step 8:Prepare to install gearcase

Rotate the driveshaft 1/4 turn counter clockwise once the water pump has been entirely installed in order to unlock and remove the impeller and key from the driveshaft. Pull up on the driveshaft and spin it clockwise to secure the impeller to the shaft. The impeller is locked at a lower position on the driveshaft as a result of this procedure, which boosts pump efficiency. The shift rod adjustment must be examined before the gearcase can be installed. Refer to the relevant Service Manual for more information.

Refer to the relevant Service Manual for more information.

  • 3/8 in. screws have a torque of 26 to 28 ft. lbs. (35 to 38 Nm)
  • 7/16 in. screws have a torque of 45 to 50 ft. lbs. (61 to 68 Nm)
  • 3/8 in. screws have a torque of 26 to 28 ft. lbs. (35 to 38 Nm)
  • 3/8 in. screws have a torque of 26 to 28 ft. lbs.

At high speeds, failure to correctly tighten all gearcase holding screws can result in the loss of gearcase control and the loss of boat control. Start the outboard motor to verify the functionality of the water pump.

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