How To Replace Electric Hot Water Heater

How to Install an Electric Water Heater

Installing a new electric water heater can allow you to save both money and electricity. How to do it is demonstrated in our video and step-by-step instructions. Please keep in mind that product pricing, availability, and item numbers may differ from market to market.

Before You Begin

Examine your water heater to see whether it need replacement or if routine maintenance would suffice. There might be a problem with the heating element or another type of maintenance issue if you are not getting hot water. Before committing to a complete replacement, conduct a brief maintenance inspection. If you have water on the floor or on top of the unit (as opposed to water leaking from a supply line above the unit), you’ll most likely need to replace your water heater as soon as possible.

A excellent time to think about upgrading or reducing your electric water heater is when your family’s size has increased or decreased.

If you’re not confident in your ability to complete water heater installation, hire a professional.

A decrease in pressure reduces the stress placed on plumbing systems and helps to increase the lifespan of appliances and fixtures.

Water Pressure

The water pressure in your house is critical for all of the equipment that use water. A decrease in pressure reduces the stress placed on plumbing systems and helps to increase the lifespan of appliances and fixtures. Check the water pressure in your house by attaching a pressure gauge to an exterior spigot. The optimal PSI ranges from 50 to 60 PSI. if the water pressure in your house is more than 80 PSI, use the pressure-reducing valve located near the main water shut-off to decrease the pressure.

If you don’t already have a pressure-reducing valve in your house, a professional can install one for you.

Expansion Tank

Decide the type of expansion tank you’ll require. It is possible to reduce surplus pressure in the lines of a closed system using thermal expansion tanks. A 2-gallon expansion tank can be used with water heaters that hold up to 50 gallons of water. For water heaters that hold up to 100 gallons of water, a 5-gallon expansion tank should be used. For for size information, see the manufacturer’s instructions. In most cases, the expansion tank is connected to the cold-water supply pipe near or above the water heater.

They simply slot into the pipe without the need for soldering.

Soldering paste should be applied to both the pipe and the fittings before assembling.

After heating the fitting, solder the connection together. In order for an electric water heater installation to be functional, the pressure in the expansion tank must equal the pressure in the main water supply. Increase the pressure by using a hand air pump, or decrease it by depressing the valve.

Removing the Old Water Heater

The following steps will walk you through the process of installing an electric water heater. When transporting a water heater, employ a helper, an appliance dolly, or a hand truck to ensure that the device is not damaged.

Preventing Scalds

Even with the temperature gauge set at 120 degrees, the risk of scalds remains a possibility. Children, the elderly, and individuals with delicate skin are particularly at risk of developing skin cancer. Consider adding thermostatic mixing valves to keep people safe from being hurt. Installed at the point of use faucet, fixture, or appliance, a thermostatic mixing valve regulates both the volume and temperature of water by connecting to both the hot and cold water supply lines at the same location.

Learn How to Install a New Water Heater

Because professional installation may easily add $500 or more to the cost of replacing a traditional tank-style water heater, many homeowners are naturally interested in the option of doing it on their own. Furthermore, while it is considered an advanced project, DIYers with sufficient skill may frequently do the task themselves with a little forethought. It’s crucial to highlight that this is not a project for those who are just getting started. Examining the type of water heater you already have is the first step in learning how to install a new water heater in your home.

• Then decide on the size: 30-, 40-, 50-, or larger-gallon containers.
• You might consider upgrading to a larger unit if your old one did not provide enough hot water.
• However, there must be enough space for the larger heater, the flue size must be correct with proper pitch, and the gas line supplied must be sufficient for the heater’s capacity.
• Plumbers bid jobs on the basis of a full day’s worth of labor, however, because the project typically grows more intricate as time goes on.
• If you’re not sure in your abilities in these areas, hiring a professional is the best course of action.
• When it comes to dealing with gas lines, it’s important to always abide by municipal regulations.

Gas Water Heater Venting

It has been usual practice for many years to use atmospheric venting to vent the combustion exhaust fumes from a gas-fueled water heater. In this arrangement, a metal draft hood mounted on top of the water heater directed exhaust gases and a small quantity of fresh air from the room up a metal flue that ran through the roof or into a shared chimney, depending on the model. In many circumstances, connecting an existing flue and draft hood to a new water heater will be all that is required; nevertheless, there are other elements (such as the pitch and draft of the connections) that can make the operation considerably more involved than it appears.

However, the building code in some localities may demand that a new water heater be vented using a different method every time one is installed.

When living in an air-tight home, this is frequently essential to prevent the gas and airflow via the water heater flue from causing an air pressure differential, which can suck gases from the water heater burner into the dwelling.

This is seldom an issue in older, less air-tight houses, though. The process becomes more difficult if your code dictates that you upgrade from an atmospheric vent to a forced-air direct vent or powered direct vent. The majority of folks should hire a professional for this type of service.

Warning

All plumbing installations must be in compliance with the local plumbing code, so check with your local building authority to find out what is required in your region. Because installation varies depending on the location and the kind of heater, the following procedures are intended to serve as a general guideline only and may or may not apply to your specific case. As previously indicated, it is preferable to leave this process to the pros.

Materials

• Purchase of a new water heater, as well as any necessary shimming, plumbing fittings, and plumber’s pipe-seal tape. a draft cowl for the water heater (if one is required for a gas heater)
• Temperature and pressure relief valves (if not already given)
• A drain valve for the water heater (if not already provided)
• Fittings for vent pipes (where required)
• Nipples for galvanized water heaters with a plastic liner (2)
• Flexible water heater tubing (if required)
• Flexible gas heater tubes (if required)

Shut off the Water, and the Gas or Electricity

• Turn off the power to the existing water heater and disconnect the water heater’s plumbing. Turn off the water at the main water cutoff valve in the home or at a branch shutoff valve that controls the cold water that runs to the water heater in the basement. Then turn off the electricity or gas to the building. For an electric water heater, follow these steps: Turn off the circuit breaker for the water heater’s circuit in the breaker box for the house. a. This is normally a double-pole breaker with a 30-amp rating. For a gas water heater, turn off the gas supply at the shutoff valve on the gas line that is closest to the water heater and then turn on the water heater. Water main should be shut off at the water meter. Home-Cost.com

Drain the Water Heater Tank

• A garden hose should be connected to the drain valve located towards the bottom of the water heater. Open the nearest hot water faucet, such as the one in the bathroom, to avoid suction from building up in the line, which can cause the draining to become sluggish. Place the other end of the hose over a floor drain or direct it to an open area outside. To prevent silt from clogging the drain valve, open it carefully when first turning it on. Allow the tank to empty entirely before turning off the valve and removing the hose from the tank. It is positioned at the bottom of the water heater, near the drain valve. Getty Images courtesy of Dorling Kindersley

Disconnect the Water Lines

• Disconnect the hot and cold water lines from the water heater by using a pipe wrench or channel-lock pliers to tighten the connections. Flexible tubes (usually coupled with compression or union fittings) or soldered connections (soldered connections must be cut with a tubing cutter) can be used to connect the water lines to the heater.

Disconnect the Electrical or Gas Lines

• Next, the water heater’s power source must be unplugged from the mains power supply. For an electric water heater, follow these steps: Removing the cover from the wire connection panel at the top of the water heater will reveal the wire connections. Check the individual wires with a non-contact voltage tester to ensure that the circuit is off, and then remove the wire connectors that link the circuit wires to the water heater leads. Remove the cable from the connection box by unscrewing the cable clip and pulling the cable out. For a gas water heater, follow these steps: Remove the gas line from the water heater and make sure the main gas line valve is turned off before reconnecting it to the gas control valve. Depending on the kind of water heater, this gas tube may be a flexible tube covered with vinyl or bare soft copper tubing, or it may be an older water heater with a hard black-pipe connection.

Disconnect the Water Heater Vent (Gas Heaters Only)

• The vent pipe should be disconnected from the draft hood located on the top of the heater. In most cases, three or four sheet metal screws are used to attach the draft hood to the exhaust vent pipe. In certain cases, if the draft hood is in excellent condition, it may be possible to repurpose it with the new water heater.

Swap the Old Water Heater for the New

Use an appliance dolly with straps to move the old water heater out of the way and wheel in the new water heater. The use of a helper is recommended while moving water heaters up and down basement steps. When transferring the heater, make sure you tie it to the dolly with strong straps. Clean up the area on the floor where the old heater used to be. Bring in the new water heater and align it with the existing plumbing connections so that it is connected to the water heater’s plumbing system. Shimming beneath the legs of the new water heater can help to level it if necessary.

Tip

• If you live in an earthquake-prone area, there may be brackets or straps that need to be attached to the wall to keep the water heater from moving about while in use. The water heater should be installed. Getty Images
• Jim Zuckerman / Getty Images

Install the Relief Valve and Other Fittings

• Install all of the necessary fittings that are required for the water heater to function properly. This always comprises a temperature and pressure relief valve (also known as a TPR valve) as well as a drainpipe for discharge. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install any additional fittings that may be required. Relief valve for high temperature and high pressure

Connect the Water Lines

• Tie galvanized plastic-lined nipples to the cold water input and hot water outlet ports on the top of the water heater using stainless steel screws. In order to install the nipples, you must first cover the threads with plumber’s pipe-seal tape before threading the nipples into the apertures and tightening them using channel-lock pliers or with a pipe wrench. Connect the cold water pipe to the intake nipple on the water heater, and the hot water pipe to the output nipple on the water heater to complete the installation. In some circumstances, reattaching the flexible tubing that were removed after removing the old heater might be as simple as plugging them back in. When the water pipes are hard-piped into the water heater and cutting is necessary to remove the water heater, the operation becomes a little more difficult. The water heater nipples will be connected to the cold and hot water pipelines through the use of different threaded adapters, short sections of pipe, and union fittings, which will need assembly. The method you use will be determined by the type of pipe you have and the layout of your plumbing system, among other factors. If you have copper pipes, you may need to sweat-solder them together with a torch, but there are compression fittings, grip-fit (SharkBite) fittings, and PEX fittings that can be used with a variety of plumbing pipes. The installation of flexible tubes to link the hot and cold water pipes to the water heater is a suitable time to do so if you do not already have them in place. The water heater will be more easily disconnected if you ever need to repair or replace it in the future. Male-threaded adapters must be attached to both the water heater nipples and the ends of the hot and cold water pipes in order to do this. The flexible tubes are then threaded into the adapters and secured using coupling nuts that screw into the adapters.

Connect the Gas or Electrical Lines

• Then, on the top of the water heater, attach galvanized plastic-lined nipples to the cold water intake and hot water output holes. The threads are sealed with plumber’s pipe-seal tape before the nipples are threaded into the apertures and tightened with channel-lock pliers or a pipe wrench, which completes the installation. Connect the cold water pipe to the intake nipple on the water heater, and the hot water pipe to the output nipple on the water heater to complete the connection. As simple as reconnecting the flexible tubing that were detached when removing the previous heater can be, in some circumstances, this is all that is required. When the water pipes are hard-piped into the water heater and cutting is necessary to remove the water heater, the operation becomes a bit more difficult. It is possible that you will need to build a variety of threaded adapters, small pieces of pipe, and union fittings to connect the water heater nipples to the cold and hot water supply pipes. The method you use will be determined by the type of pipe you have and the layout of your plumbing system, among other considerations. Using a torch to sweat-solder copper pipes may be necessary, however there are other fittings that may be used with other types of plumbing pipes, including compression fittings, grip-fit (SharkBite), and PEX fittings. The installation of flexible tubing to link the hot and cold water pipes to the water heater is a good time to do so if you haven’t previously done so. This will make it much easier to detach the water heater in the event that you need to make repairs or replace it in the future. Male-threaded adapters must be attached to both the water heater nipples and the ends of the hot and cold water pipes in order for this to be accomplished successfully. A set of coupling nuts, which are screwed onto the adapters, is then used to connect the flexible tubes.

Reconnect the Vent (Gas Heaters Only)

The draft hood should be installed at the top of the water heater, centered above the exhaust aperture, and then inserted into the exhaust pipe. Sheet-metal screws are used to hold it in place. You may need to reduce the vent pipe if the new water heater is higher than the old one. You may accomplish this by cutting the vent pipe down to size using metal shears or by installing a shorter pipe segment. Another option is to lengthen the vent by installing an additional vent pipe segment if your water heater is less than the standard length.

The new water heater should come with its own set of parts and operating instructions.

Tip

• Shared venting with a chimney or flue that simultaneously serves a furnace (as seen above) is no longer permitted in some municipalities. This means that you may need to hire a professional to reroute the venting for your new water heater in this situation. Getty Images
• Comstock / Getty Images

Complete the Installation

1. Connect the hot water faucet to a distant position in the home, then turn on the cold water supply valve to the water heater, allowing the water heater tank to fill with water until the hot water tap is turned off. When water begins to flow from the hot water faucet, you’ll know the tank is completely full. Turning the circuit breaker back on for an electric water heater will re-energize the circuit that supplies electricity to the water heater. If you’re using a gas heater, make sure the main gas valve is open and that the pilot igniter is functioning correctly by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Make your chosen temperature selection on the water heater’s thermostat (120 degrees Fahrenheit is suggested), then wait for the water in the tank to get up to temperature before using it. Turn on the heater and adjust the temperature of the water heater. Banks Photographs courtesy of Getty Images

Electric Water Heater Installation: Step-by-Step Guide

If you’re the DIY kind, installing an electric water heater isn’t quite as complicated as it may appear at first glance. However, before starting the project, you should keep in mind that you will be required to perform some basic plumbing and electrical tasks. Even if these kind of jobs make you feel uncomfortable, there are several trustworthy companies that you may hire to install your new water heater. Nevertheless, if you’re up to the task, you may save money by doing it yourself. Generally speaking, electric water heaters have a life span of 8 to 10 years before they need to be replaced.

If you haven’t previously done so, you should troubleshoot the leak before investing in a new water heater.

Except if you discover that the leak is coming from the tank itself, you will have no choice but to replace the water heater.

Preparing to Install an Electric Water Heater

Having concluded that you want a new water heater, you may like to consult our buyers guide to assist you in selecting the most appropriate model for your needs.

Furthermore, if you elect to install the water heater yourself, you will be responsible for removing your old water heater and properly disposing of it. Find Local Plumbing Professionals

Tools and Supplies

Installing an electric water heater is far less difficult than installing a gas water heater, but it is still a significant undertaking. Our recommendation is to hire a professional to complete the installation if you are unfamiliar with electrical and plumbing. In addition, they will often dispose of your old water heater for you as part of the installation process. The following are step-by-step instructions for installing your electric water heater:

Disconnect the Electricity

First, we’ll have a look at what to do. Turn off the electricity to your water heater at the circuit breaker panel located near your water heater. Check the wiring of the water heater using a voltage tester to ensure that the device is turned off. Although it is not discussed in the video below, it is always a good idea to double-check that the water heater is not receiving any power after turning it off at the circuit breaker before doing any work on it. Start by turning on a hot water faucet and letting the water flow until it is cold.

The cold water feed to the water heater should be turned off (located at the top of the unit).

Drain the tank by opening the valve and venting it to the outside (or to a floor drain, or even into buckets).

You may also use the T P valve to your advantage.

Disconnect the Electrical

The next step is to disconnect the electrical cables from the water heater’s top. To begin, be certain that the circuit breaker in the breaker box has been switched off. Then, before you begin, verify the wires with a voltage tester to ensure they are in good working order. Cap the wires and name them (or take a picture of them) so that there is no confusion when you are connecting your new water heater in the future.

Disconnect the Plumbing

Step 4Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines from the water heater. Copper plumbing may have been used in the installation of your water heater, and you may need to cut the pipes. If you need to cut the pipes, use a tubing (pipe) cutter and try to leave as much of the pipe as feasible intact as you can before cutting. If the discharge pipe from the T P valve is in good condition, you can remove it from the T P valve and reuse it on your new water heater.

Remove the Old Water Heater

Step 5: Using a dolly, move the old water heater out of the way after the tank is empty. Place the new tank in its proper location. It is recommended that the replacement tank be placed in a drain pan. Find out why. Make certain that your electrical supply will be sufficient to reach the tank. Check sure you have access to the panels and the drain valve in case you need to do maintenance.

Prepare the Plumbing Lines

The pipes will need to be prepared with a sandpaper cloth if your old water heater had copper plumbing and it was required to cut the pipes.

Rub the ends of the pipes with the sandpaper cloth until they are gleaming brilliantly again. Find Local Plumbing Professionals

Connect the Electrical Wiring

In order to gain access to the electrical cables, remove the junction box cover in Step 7. Attach the ground wire to the green ground screw using a crimp connector. Wire connectors are used to join the other wires together by twisting them together. Make use of the prior wire connections as a reference and reconnect the wires in the same manner in which they were disconnected. Follow the directions on your label tags or the photo you took in Step 3. After that, reinstall the lid of the junction box.

Attach the Supply LinesTurn On the Water

Step 8: Connect the water supply lines for hot and cold water. Make certain that the cold water pipe is connected to the cold water intake on the water heater (it’s easy to make the error of connecting the cold to the hot water pipe). If your old water heater was plumbed with copper piping, you may want to consider plumbed it with copper piping once more. Flexible hoses, on the other hand, are highly recommended for making the connections. Not only is it more convenient, but it is also a suggested safety element in the event of an earthquake.

1. Connect the flexible hoses to the nipples on the water heater using the hose clamps.
2. When connecting flexible hoses to the hot and cold water pipes, we recommend that you use dielectric connections to prevent shock.
3. By turning on the hot water faucet at the adjacent faucet, you may check for leaks in the flexible hose connections.
4. Although this step is not discussed in the video, we recommend that you double-check your plumbing before continuing forward with the project.
5. As soon as the tank is completely refilled, water will begin to flow out of the hot water faucet.

Attach the T P Discharge Pipe

Connection of the hot and cold water supply lines in step eight Make certain that the cold water pipe is connected to the cold water intake on the water heater (it’s easy to make the error of connecting the cold to the hot water line.) If the copper piping in your previous water heater was still in good condition, you may decide to reinstall it. The use of flexible hoses to create the connections, on the other hand, is strongly encouraged. Furthermore, it is a suggested earthquake safety element since it is not only simpler but also more effective.

• Connect the flexible hoses to the nipples on the water heater using the hose clamps.
• When connecting flexible hoses to hot and cold water pipelines, we recommend utilizing dielectric connections.
• Turn on the hot water faucet at the nearest faucet to check for leaks in the flexible hose connections.
• Despite the fact that this step is not discussed in the movie, we recommend that you inspect your plumbing before proceeding.

As long as there are no leaks, you can keep filling the water heater tank with water. When the tank is completely full, water will begin to flow out of the hot water tap in the bathroom.

• Make use of a 3/4-inch male copper fitting. Paintpipe dope applied on the exterior of the fitting as well as the interior of the valve fittings. Tighten the fitting to the T P valve fitting once it has been attached. Remove the fitting from the pipe’s end and clean it
• Soldering flux should be painted on the inside of the male fitting and outside of the pipe. Fitting the pipe to the fitting is completed. To join the pipes, solder and a torch should be used.

Turn On the PowerBleed the Hot Water Lines

Step 10After your water heater tank has been completely filled with water, switch on the circuit breaker located at the main power panel. Attention must be taken when turning on the electricity before the tank has entirely filled since the electric components may dry up if they are not totally immersed. This might cause irreparable damage to your electric heating components. Remember to switch off the circuit breaker before inspecting the electrical connections on your water heater if your water heater isn’t getting electricity.

Bleed Hot Water Lines

When the water heater tank is completely filled with water, switch on the circuit breaker at the main power box. BE CAREFUL: If the electricity is turned on before the tank is entirely filled, the electric components may dry out and catch fire if they are not totally immersed. If this happens, your electric heating components might be ruined completely. Remember to switch off the circuit breaker before examining the electrical connections on your water heater if your water heater isn’t getting electricity.

Watch the Video

Repair and Installation of Water Heaters at the Lowest Possible Price Now is the time to call! Request Estimates from Pre-Approved Local Contractors

DIY Water Heater Installation

Time A busy day of work Complexity IntermediateCost$101–250

Introduction

When your water heater begins to leak, you must act quickly to have it repaired or replaced. We’ll teach you how to set up your own natural gas water heater in less than a day’s time. Even if you do not require a new water heater at this time, it is likely that you will require one within the next few years. Water heaters typically have a lifespan of seven to fifteen years. If yours is beginning to show signs of wear, this post is also for you. If you’re familiar with basic equipment and have a little expertise soldering copper, replacing a water heater shouldn’t be too tough.

Tools Required

• Water and gas piping
• Discharge pipe
• Fittings
• Pipe thread compound
• Pressure relief valve
• Solder. Ventilation pipe and connections
• Pressure relief valve.

Getting Started Installing Your New Hot Water Tank

Water and gas piping; Discharge pipe; Fittings; Pipe thread compound; Pressure relief valve; Solder. Ventilation pipe and connections.

Water Heater Parts and Breakdown

• Discharge pipe
• Fittings
• Pipe thread compound
• Pressure relief valve
• Solder
• Venting pipe and connections
• Water and gas piping

When to get a new water heater

When the tank of your water heater leaks, your water heater is out of commission. An indication that your water heater needs to be replaced is a gradual drop beneath the unit, which commonly manifests itself as a trail of discolored water. This indicates that the steel tank has corroded through and will be unable to be repaired. Other symptoms, such as little or no hot water, are typically indicative of other water heater repair issues that may be resolved by you. If you notice a drop, make a plan to get the water heater replaced as soon as possible.

New water heaters are sent with detailed installation instructions as well as several cautions to ensure that the gas, electrical, and other connections are handled properly.

However, you should be aware that you will be dealing with natural gas, propane, or electricity, all of which are potentially harmful.

And, after you’re finished, get your work examined.

Plumbing codes differ from one location to the next. You should explain to your local plumbing inspector how you want to install your new connections, including the sorts of materials you intend to use. Instead of making changes afterwards, it is preferable to seek advice early.

Figure A: Gas Water Heater Details

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family See the Additional Information section at the end of this article for instructions on how to print this image.

Figure B: Connections for Steel and Plastic Pipe

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-Us. The Additional Information at the conclusion of this article provides instructions on how to print this image.

Project step-by-step (12)

Turn off the gas to the water heater by twisting the shutdown valve a quarter turn away from the water heater. When the handle is turned off, it should be at a straight angle to the pipe. Also, turn off the main water supply and drain the pipes by opening a tap on the lowest floor of the building. Step No. 2

Drain the water in the tank

Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and use it to drain the water that has accumulated in the tank. The water will be boiling hot, so proceed with caution! With a pair of wrenches, disconnect the gas line at the neighboring union and remove the pipe from the gas control valve with a pipe wrench to complete the task.

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Cut off the water lines

The vent pipe should be moved to the side once it has been unscrewed from the vent hood. After that, using a tube cutter, cut the hot and cold water lines. For galvanized pipe, remove the unions and, if you have them, remove the nuts on the flexible connections as well. Move the old water heater to the side of the room. Step number four.

Attach the relief valve

Teflon tape should be used to seal the threads of the new temperature and pressure relief valve (three turns). With a pipe wrench, tighten it inside the tank until it is completely sealed. Glue a copper discharge pipe to the wall (see Fig. A for routing details). Step number five.

Attach pipe assemblies

Solder fresh copper adapters to 6-in. lengths of 3/4-in. copper pipe and screw the assemblies into the hot water outlet and cold water inlet ports on the top of the tank’s tank’s tank’s tank. Make use of short, plastic-lined nipples to protect your pipes from galvanic corrosion, especially if you have hard water or if they are required by your local building standards. Step 6: Organize your thoughts and feelings about the situation.

Attach the water lines

Slide the new water heater into position, recut or lengthen the old tubing to connect it to the new, and solder the tubing together using copper slip couplings to complete the installation. If the tubing does not line up properly, use pairs of 45-degree elbows to adjust the alignment of the lines. Step 7 – Organize your time and resources.

Reattach the vent

Reconnect the vent if necessary. Place it securely over the draft hood and secure it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws to hold it in place. Prepare the holes by drilling them beforehand. Before turning at the first elbow, the vent should rise at least 12 inches vertically from the floor. In this eighth step, you will learn how to use a comma to separate the words “and” and “and not.”

Use two wrenches to attach the gas line

Reconnect the gas line if necessary. Pipe joint compound should be applied to the threaded ends before screwing the first nipple into the gas valve. To minimize straining the valve, use two pipe wrenches at the same time. Reassemble the remaining nipples, concluding with the union at the end of the process (Photo 2). Then, in order to fill the tank, perform these four steps: To check for leaks, perform the following steps: (1) cut off the main water valve; (2) re-connect the water at the main shutoff; (3) open the cold-water valve on the water heater (but do not close it); and (4) turn on a nearby hot-water faucet until water flows out.

Check for backdrafting

The majority of water heaters rely on a natural airflow to carry combustion emissions up the chimney and out of the building. If the draft does not operate, the fumes, which may contain lethal carbon monoxide, will be released into your home and cause you to become sick. Check the draft when you’ve finished installing everything. Close all of your external doors and windows, and put on the exhaust fans in your kitchen and bathroom. Continue to run a hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in your water heater come to life.

Ideally, the smoke should be drawn upward through the vent pipe.

Turn off the gas supply to the water heater and contact a certified plumber to diagnose and remedy the problem.

Check for leaks

Check for leaks by turning on the gas and squeezing a 50-50 combination of dishwashing liquid and water over the connection points. If there are bubbles in the mixture, you have a leak. Joints that are leaking should be tightened or reconnected. When you’re finished, wipe the joints down with a clean cloth. Make an appointment with the plumbing inspector to have them go at your work. Follow the how-to instructions that are included with the photographs to ensure that the connections are secure.

Light the pilot light

The pilot light should be turned on in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. (When using an electric water heater, turn on the electricity at the main panel after your work has been checked by the electrical inspector). Once you’ve finished, adjust the temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit according to the installation instructions. The pilot light in the new water heater should be lit, then the temperature setting should be adjusted.

Installation Details for Electric Water Heaters

At your main electrical panel, turn off all power to your water heater, then turn it back on. After that, empty the water heater in the same manner as you would a gas water heater. As soon as the water heater has been drained, separate the electrical wires from the screw terminals under the access panel, which is normally situated towards the top of the water heater. To handle all of the electrical wiring, you should engage an electrician if you don’t have any prior knowledge with it. When it comes to wiring the new water heater, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

• x 4-in.
• metal electrical box on the wall or ceiling near the water heater, route the old wires to the box, and then run a new length of armored cable or electrical conduit to the water heater to complete the installation.
• The circuit should also have a shutdown switch that is visible from the vicinity of the water heater.
• You’ll almost certainly require a permit.
• Aluminum wire needs specific care and handling.

If you have aluminum wire, you should choose a qualified professional who is experienced in working with it. This wiring is a dull gray color, rather than the drab orange color that is characteristic of copper wiring. ‘Step 12’ is the final step in the process.

How to Dispose of a Water Heater

In this video lesson, Jeff Gorton, an editor at The Family Handyman, will show you how to remove and dispose of a water heater in the proper manner. He will also demonstrate a simple method of transporting a water heater out of your home, even if you are working on your own.

These tips will make your work go faster and easier:

• To avoid modifying the length of your water, gas, or electrical lines, take note of the height of your existing water heater and get a new one that is the same height
• On older water heaters, the drain valve (Photo 2) frequently becomes clogged. Please be patient if the water drains slowly. WARNING: The temperature is really high! TIP: Turn off your water heater two hours before you want to use it to enable the water to cool. Water heaters are around 150 pounds in weight. When you’re moving the old one out and wheeling the new one in, you’ll need a strong partner or a dolly to assist you. Ordinarily, garbage collection agencies charge approximately $25 to remove the old one. Before you begin, go to a plumbing supply or hardware store, or a home center, and purchase the equipment and materials seen below. Check the sizes of the water supply pipes (the majority will be 3/4 in., as shown in our photographs) and purchase the fittings that are the proper size. If you have everything you need, you should be able to complete the work in four to six hours (provided there are no major problems!). This safety mechanism, which controls tank pressure and prevents it from bursting, is located in the tank’s pressure relief valve assembly (Photo 4). It is necessary to include a fresh one with each installation. The discharge pipe must be kept clear of impediments in order for the valve to function correctly (see Fig. A). Use 3/4-in. plastic-lined nipples (about $2 each
• Photo 5 and Fig. A) to attach other metals, mainly copper tubing to the steel tank, in areas where the water is highly mineralized or where it is needed by municipal laws. This has the effect of slowing rusting. In order to avoid heating the tank itself during soldering, solder the copper fittings before screwing them to the tank (Photo 5)
• Slip couplings should be used to link the existing and new water lines (Photo 6). (Photo 6). They do not have an internal stop, in contrast to normal couplings. Alternatively, you may slip them on, align the copper tubing, then slide them back and center them over the junction
• However, the new inlets and outlets on the tank don’t always line up with the old supply lines, and vice versa. If required, solder in a pair of 45-degree fittings to ensure that each line is offset. While you’re doing it, you should also replace the old cutoff valve with a new ball valve (Photo 6). The diameter of the vents is determined by the amount of heat produced by the water heater. In order to achieve the ideal draft, you may need to raise or reduce the ventilation size. CAUTION: If you’re not sure whether or not your chimney has a liner, consult with a plumbing inspector. Make gas connections using solid steel pipe (Photo 8) or soft copper tubing with flare fittings (Fig. A). Both are more dependable and less expensive than flexible stainless steel connections, which are not usually allowed in some applications. For the same reasons, rigid copper water supply lines should be used rather than flexible copper water supply lines
• If your water heater replacement is located in a location where leaking might cause damage to the floor or other elements of the home, lay a pan of an appropriate size beneath it (metal for gas water heaters). a drain tube that connects to a home drain or another suitable site must be installed in the pan (outdoors where permitted). If a leak might cause damage to the flooring, the discharge tube for the temperature and pressure relief valves must also connect to a drain. If routing is a problem, consult with your local plumbing inspector about possible solutions. Special straps should be used to secure your water heater to the wall if you reside in an earthquake-prone location (Fig. A
• Available at plumbing stores and home centers). If they are necessary, your plumbing inspector will inform you of this. Ensure that the new water temperature setting does not exceed 120 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid scorching

Additional Information

Water Heater Maintenance: How to Extend the Life of Your Hot Water Heater How to Repair a Leaking Water Heater Water Heater Installation Instructions on how to replace the TPR valve on a water heater Solar Water Heater Made at Home How to Repair or Replace Water Heater Dip Tubes That Are Defective How to Flush a Water Heater (with Pictures) The Process of Purchasing a New Water Heater 7 Myths About Tankless Water Heaters That You Should Never Believe The Advantages and Disadvantages of Tankless Water Heaters

DIY Water Heater Testing and Repair

Occasionally, the heating elements on electric water heaters break long before the water heater itself fails, but changing them in a hot water heater is a simple Do It Yourself repair.

Tools Required

The majority of the time, replacing one or both of the heating elements will address the problem if your electric hot water heater is taking a long time to heat up, running out of hot water more quickly than it used to, or not delivering any hot water. Water heater repairs are simple, and replacement components are affordable ($8 to $20), and they are easily accessible at home centers, hardware shops, and appliance parts dealers across the country. How to test the heating elements, remove one if it’s defective, and replace it with a new one will be demonstrated.

If your heater is reaching its end of life, it may be more cost-effective to replace it than to repair it.

Other Causes of Water Not Getting Hot

Of course, there are a variety of additional factors that might contribute to a shortage of hot water. Before you begin testing the elements, double-check that the circuit breaker is not tripped and that it is in the on position. Press the reset button on the high-temperature cutoff, which is positioned slightly above the top thermostat, at the same time. Although resetting either the circuit breaker or the high-temperature cutoff may remedy the problem, the fact that they were tripped in the first place may suggest that there is an electrical fault with the system in the first place.

Assuming that the heating components are working properly, the thermostats or cutoff switch may be defective.

Video: How to Test Your Water Heater Element

• Power should be turned off at the circuit breaker. Remove the metal covers from the thermostats and heating components to reveal them.

• Pro tip: Check that the power has been turned off by tapping the electrical connections with a noncontact voltage detector.

Test the Wires

• Please keep in mind that if the wires are covered by metal conduit, the tester will not read the voltage. Take off the metal thermostat cover that is mounted on the side of the water heater, peel out all of the insulation, and place the tester in close proximity to the wires that go up to the top of the high-temperature cutoff switch.

• Placing the tester against the metal water heater shell will get the following results:

• Note: If the tester does not light up, it is okay to proceed with the testing of the components.

What’s Inside a Water Heater and How It Works

The vast majority of domestic electric water heaters feature two heating elements: one near the top of the tank and another towards the bottom of the tank. After entering the top, power travels to the high-temperature cutoff switch, and then to the thermostats and elements on each side of the unit. The temperature of the top and bottom components is regulated by two different thermostats.

When the water at the top of the tank becomes too hot, the top element goes off and the bottom element takes over to heat the water. The top and lower heating elements are never activated at the same time in the same cycle.

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Test Continuity for a Burned-Out Element

• Please keep in mind that you will need a continuity tester ($5 to $10) for this stage.

• Disconnect the wires from the terminal screws using a wire cutter. Attach the alligator clamp to one of the element screws using a hex key. With the tester probe, make contact with the other screw.

• Note: If the tester does not illuminate, the element should be replaced.

Test for a Short Circuit

• The alligator clip should be attached to one of the element screws. Touch the tester probe to the mounting bracket for the element
• Repeat the process on the other screw.

• It is important to note that if the tester light illuminates either time, there is a short. Replace the element with a new one

The Secret of the Red Button

Occasionally, both elements will pass the test, but you will still be unable to receive hot water. Try pressing the “high-temperature cutoff” button, which is situated right above the upper thermostat, to see if that helps. It may temporarily cure the problem, but if the problem recurs, the heating components should be checked. Step number five.

Remove the Bad Element

• Close the intake valve for cold water
• Start by turning on the hot water tap in the kitchen. Pour water into the tank by connecting a garden hose to the drain valve and opening it

• Note: A water heater element wrench (available for $5 at home centers and hardware stores) is required for thread-in–type elements such as those shown below.

• Take note that a water heater element wrench (available for $5 at home centers and hardware stores) is required for thread-in–type elements such as the ones shown below.

• Pro tip: To spin the socket, you’ll need a long, robust Phillips screwdriver with a flat blade. To free the threads that have become stuck, use a cold chisel and a hammer to loosen the threads that have become stuck.

Install the New Element

• Insert the replacement element into the water heater and tighten it down with the heating element wrench if necessary. Reconnect the wires, checking to see that the connections are secure. Remove the insulation and metal covers and replace them.

Buying Heating Elements

Replace your heating element with one that has the same wattage as your existing one. For information on wattage if your old element isn’t labeled, look at the nameplate on the water heater, your instruction manual, or search online using the model number found on the nameplate. Heating elements are secured to the water heater with either a big thread and nut, as illustrated below, or with four bolts and nuts, as indicated in the diagram below. Most home centers carry the type we’ve shown, but if you’re replacing the four-bolt version, you may purchase an adaptor kit.

Low-density parts that are more costly are typically folded back.

Replacement of your old element with a low-density element will result in more efficient functioning and a longer service life.

How To Install An Electric Water Heater

A water heater, particularly an electric kind, is a very basic piece of equipment. Unheated water enters the tank by one of its sides. Several electric resistance components that stretch from the edge of the tank into the middle of the water are responsible for heating the water in the tank. The water then leaves from the other side of the tank when the demand is there. Unfortunately, this ease of use does not extend to the process of installing the software. While not difficult, installing an electric water heater does include some plumbing and electrical work, which may be enough to deter some homeowners from taking on the project.

Compared to other frequent home pastimes like refinishing furniture or managing a productive vegetable or flower garden, the skills necessary for this task are not nearly as difficult.

This is an excellent method of reducing the number of fittings you require as well as the number of journeys to the hardware shop to get the items you have forgotten.

If all you’re doing is replacing a tank in the same location, you’ll have even less work on your hands.

Keep in mind to integrate any particular manufacturer instructions into your preparations, especially if failing to do so may result in the product warranty being voided.

Step 1: Build a Platform

Choose a handy location for the tank and install two or three concrete blocks on the floor to act as a foundation. Using these blocks, you may assist avoid damage from minor floods while also making access to the drain much simpler.

Step 2: Center the Tank

After that, slide the tank on top of the blocks, being care to keep the drain faucet toward the front of the tank. Using your hands, gently rock the tank back and forth to ensure that the blocks do not move. Reposition everything until the tank is steady if the blocks begin to shift or the tank begins to rock on top of the blocks.

Step 3: Soldering Basics

Soldering copper tubing and fittings is one of the most straightforward skills to learn in the construction industry. To complete this project, you’ll need only a propane or Mapp gas torch (we recommend the Mapp gas torch because it burns hotter and melts lead-free solder more effectively), a tubing cutter, several pads of steel wool and a wire brush to clean the ends of the fittings. You’ll also need some lead-free solder, which you can buy at any hardware store. All of these goods can be found at most local hardware stores and home improvement centers on a regular basis.

1. To begin, cut a 6- to 8-inch-long piece of 3/4-inch-diameter tubing for the cold water entrance line on the tank, depending on how long you want it to be.
2. Following that, use a piece of steel wool to clean the end of the tube.
3. Then, using some soldering flux, cover the cleaned area and set the item away for a while.
4. All you have to do is put the brush into the fitting’s end and twirl it till the surface is clean.
5. To begin heating the joint, switch on the torch and adjust the flame so that the inner blue flame is approximately 3/4 of an inch long on the inside.
6. You don’t have to move the flame around the joint to get this result.
7. As soon as the flux has disappeared, apply a little amount of solder to the top of the junction.

If this is the case, simply pull off the solder, keep the junction heated, and try again.

This indicates that the joint is completely filled.

Make careful you use thick gloves to avoid getting burned.

Clean all of the tube ends and fittings as you did previously, add some flux, and solder the pieces together to complete the installation.

Insert the tape in the tape dispenser in a clockwise orientation.

Then, using a nut, secure the two pieces of the union together securely in their respective positions.

After that, clean and flux a shutdown valve for the cold side of the system, slip it over the tubing end, and solder it in place to complete the installation. For this application, we utilized a ball valve, but a gate valve with sweat fittings on both ends might easily be used instead.

Step 4: T P Valve

It’s one of the most straightforward building skills to learn: soldering copper tubing and fittings is one of the most basic. To complete this project, you’ll need only a propane or Mapp gas torch (we recommend the Mapp gas torch because it burns hotter and melts lead-free solder more effectively), a tubing cutter, several pads of steel wool and a wire brush to clean the ends of the fittings. You’ll also need some lead-free solder, which you can purchase at any hardware store. Almost all of these goods may be found at your local hardware shop or home improvement center on hand.

1. The tube cuts must be perfectly straight, and the fittings must not be bent or twisted in any manner.
2. As you work, keep the wheel square to the pipe and the tubing cutter instead of a saw.
3. Cleaning an area at least 1 inch long and ensuring that only a brilliant copper hue can be visible thereafter are important steps to do.
4. The interior of all your fittings may be be cleaned with steel wool, but a basic wire brush created specifically for this purpose is far more easy.
5. Apply flux to the interior of the fitting and then slip the fitting over the end of the tubing piece to secure it.
6. Put a direct flame on the top of the joint and heat this region until the flux melts and the joint is completely melted and burned out.
7. Cupola is an excellent conductor of heat, and simply holding the flame in one place is sufficient to heat the entire joint.
8. Solder will melt immediately if the tubing is sufficiently heated.
9. Continue to press solder into the joint until it drops out the bottom as soon as the solder begins to soften.
10. Remove the flame immediately and use a soft towel to wipe away any excess solder.

To make it easier to transport the tank for service or repair, we installed union fittings on both the cold and hot lines as they exited the tank, as shown in the diagram below: Clean all of the tube ends and fittings as you did previously, apply some flux, and solder the pieces together to complete the installation of these unions.

Ensure that the tape is inserted in a clockwise manner.

Then, using a nut, secure the two pieces of the union together firmly at the desired location.

Cleaning and fluxing a cutoff valve for the cold side is the next step. Slide it over the tubing end and solder the shutoff valve in place. This was accomplished with the use of a ball valve, but a gate valve with sweat fittings on both ends might also be utilized in this situation.

Step 5: Electrical Power

A separate 220-volt circuit is usually required for a water heater, and in our instance, a 30-amp circuit breaker as well as a 10/2 (with ground) circuit wire were required. These were already in place on our project site, but the cable terminated roughly 20 feet distant from the placement of our new storage tank. Using a joist-mounted junction box, we ran new cable to the new tank site by bored holes through the middle of the overhead joists and extending the wire down the side of the joists where it was handy.

To obtain access to the electrical wiring in your tank, begin by removing the top-most covering plate.

To accomplish this, look for a knockout on the top of the tank and use a screwdriver and hammer to force it down.

Insert the threaded end of a conduit connector into the knockout hole and tighten it in place with the connection nut to secure it in place.

The free end of the cable should be inserted into the pipe’s uppermost section and pulled out the lowermost portion.

Attach the ground wire from the cable to the grounding screw located inside the tank opening and tighten it down with the connection screw to secure it in place.

After that, just replace the covering plate and your installation is complete.

Keep in mind to close the drain valve before turning on the water supply.

If you switch on the elements before the tank is completely filled with water, they will be destroyed and will need to be replaced immediately.

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