How To Remove A Water Heater - ERNIEGRAVES | Process Measurement & Control

Removing the Old Water Heater

Back It is recommended that you read the printed instructions that came with your water heater in addition to the material on this web site. Read and observe any warning labels on the water heater, as well as the safety recommendations in the printed owner’s handbook, to limit the danger of property damage, serious injury, or death.

Step1:Tools Required

Hose for the garden
Hand truck or appliance dolly
Pipe cutter, screwdriver, wrenches, and a bucket (optional) are all necessary tools.

Step2:Turn the Water Heater OFF

Turn the knob on the gas control valve to the OFF position on the old water heater.

Step3:Turn the Main Gas Supply Valve OFF

Break the gas line at the union (you’ll need two wrenches for this)
Close off the gas line

Step5:Disconnect Gas Supply

Removing the gas supply line from the control valve of the old water heater

Step6:Run the Hot Water Until it’s Cool

(This might take up to 10 minutes or more).”>

Start by opening a hot water faucet and allowing the hot water to flow until it is cold (this may take 10 minutes or longer)
Then close the faucet. WARNING! As a precaution, make sure the water is running cool before emptying the old water heater to avoid burning yourself.

Step7:Connect a Garden Hose to Drain Valve

Connect a garden hose to the drain valve on the water heater and place the other end of the hose in a drain, outside, or in a bucket

Step8:Turn the Cold Water Supply OFF

Drain the water from the old water heater by opening the drain valve. Opening a hot water faucet will assist in draining the water heater more quickly. A flat blade screwdriver is required to open certain drain valves, whereas a handle is required to open others. Make sure that the water heater is totally draining
Disconnect the garden hose
A build-up of sediment at the bottom of the tank may jam the drain valve, making it impossible for the tank to drain correctly. Contact a competent expert for assistance if you are unable to get the tank to drain properly

Step10:Disconnect the T P Relief Valve Discharge Pipe

The TemperaturePressure (T P) Relief Valve discharge line should be disconnected after the tank is completely emptied
You may be able to reuse the discharge pipe, but DO NOT REUSE THE OLD T P RELIEF VALVE. Ensure that you use the new T P relief valve that was included with your new water heater.

Step11:Remove Vent Pipe

Allow for cooling of the vent pipe. If necessary, support the vent pipe until the new water heater is installed. Once the vent pipe has cooled, remove it from the draft hood
You may need to support it until the new water heater is installed.

Step12:Disconnect the Water Pipes

Prior to removing the water pipes, plan how you will connect the new water heater to the existing system. If you are using compression fittings, cut the water pipes as near as feasible to the water heater, leaving as much length as possible in the water pipes. After that, you may trim them to length. “>

Be sure to plan how you will connect the new water heater before removing the existing water lines. The water pipes near the water heater should be terminated with compression fittings, leaving as much length as feasible in the water lines. After that, you may cut them to size.

Step13:Remove the Old Water Heater

Remove the old water heater from the room. Move the water heater with the use of a hand truck or an appliance dolly. WARNING: Water heaters are quite hefty. If you don’t have an appliance dolly, it’s best to have two or more people help you remove or install a water heater. Failure to do so may result in a back injury or another type of harm.

How to Disconnect a Hot Water Heater Safely

Before you can install a new hot water heater, you must first disconnect and properly remove the old one from the premises. This step-by-step tutorial will lead you through the process of properly disconnecting your hot water heater — complete with images. Are you looking for a low-cost water heater removal? GET AN ESTIMATE

Preparing to Remove Your Old Hot Water Heater

Several tools and equipment will be required to properly disconnect a hot water heater. These are the items you’ll need:

Uninstalling Your Hot Water Heater

Now that you’ve gathered all of the necessary materials and determined where your hot water heater is located in your home, it’s time to begin the process of removing your old hot water heater.

Step 1: Turn Off Hot Water Heater

Then locate the gas control valve on your hot water heater and turn the knob all the way to the OFF setting.

Step 2: Turn Off Main Gas Supply

TOOLS: You may just only one wrench for this step. Find the gas pipe that runs from your old water heater. This will often be copper piping that comes right out of the wall and connects directly to your old water heater, if you still have one. The majority of contemporary water heaters will have a knob on the gas line that may be used to turn off the main natural gas supply. It is sufficient to rotate the knob on the gas line so that it is perpendicular to the copper pipe if your previous hot water heater has this feature.

When the knob is parallel to the pipe, gas is being released from the valve.

Unfortunately, not all gas lines will be equipped with a knob that allows for simple gas shutdown.

If the gas line on your old hot water heater looks anything like the one depicted above, go ahead and locate the square-shaped knob on the gas line that is located towards the bottom of the heater.

How to Disconnect Gas Line from Water Heater

Having switched off your hot water heater and the main gas supply, it’s time to disconnect the gas line that connects it to your home’s hot water heater.

Step 3: Break the Gas Line at the Union

The following tools will be required for this step: two wrenches. On the gas line leading to your hot water heater, you should see a large and a tiny nut that are quite near to one other. Ideally, the union will be somewhat near to the location where you just switched off the main gas supply. Once you’ve discovered the union, use one wrench to securely grab the tiny nut on the other end.

You should tighten the nut using an adjustable wrench if you are using one. Keep the first wrench steady on the little nut while grabbing hold of the bigger nut with the other wrench and gently turning it to loosen it. Remove the two pipes from each other, exposing the gas line in the process.

Step 4: Secure and Cap Gas Pipe Line

TOOLS:You’ll need Teflon tape and a gas pipe cover for this stage, among other things. NOTE: Gas Line Cap (either 12″ or 34″ in diameter, depending on the model). Always measure first or reference your user handbook before proceeding.) Wrap teflon tape around the object: Wrap the teflon tape over the threads of your gas line (the pipe that protrudes from the wall) slowly and carefully. Three wraps should be sufficient to make a good seal. Gas Cap with a Tight Fit: When you tighten the cap on your gas line, make sure to grip the line tightly with your other hand to prevent it from wobbling while you are doing so.

Step 5: Disconnect Gas From Water Heater Control Valve

INSTRUCTIONS:Teflon tape and a gas pipe cover are required for this stage. Gas Line Cap (either 12″ or 34″ in diameter, depending on your model): First, take a measurement or refer to your user handbook. Using teflon tape, wrap the object as follows: Wrap the teflon tape over the threads of your gas line (the pipe that protrudes from the wall) gently and evenly. If you wrap it three times, it should be effective. Gas Cap with a Lock: Tighten the cap on your gas line using a wrench, making careful to grip the line tightly with your other hand to prevent it from moving around.

Draining the Hot Water Heater

The old hot water heater should be drained now that you have properly unplugged and turned off the natural gas supply.

Step 6: Turn on Hot Water FaucetRun Until Cool

It’s time to drain the old hot water heater now that you’ve properly unplugged and turned off the gas.

Step 7: Connect a Garden Hose to Drain Valve

It’s time to empty the old hot water heater now that you’ve properly unplugged and turned off the gas supply.

Step 8: Turn Off Cold Water Supply

INSTRUCTIONS:You may require a wrench or a pair of pliers for this step. It appears like two pipes are coming out of the top of your old hot water heater and running into the wall. We shall be concentrating our efforts on the cold water supply line for this stage. When you look at both pipes, you should notice that they are somewhat different in appearance. This is your hot water supply line, and it should be smooth and free of knobs all the way up to the top. Locate the knob on the cold water pipe that controls the cold water supply to your old water heater and turn it off.

Depending on the age of your hot water heater, this may appear identical to your gas shut off valve.

To tighten it down, use a wrench or a pair of pliers and tighten it down.

A quarter to a half turn should be sufficient until it cannot be turned any further by applying light tension to the nut.

Step 9: Open the Drain Valve

THE RIGHT TOOLS:If your drain valve does not have a handle, you will need to complete this step with a flathead screwdriver. You’re now ready to remove the water from your old water heater and discard it! Ready? Let’s get this party started!

Drain the water heater by opening the drain valve. Open the hot water faucet on a neighboring sink to assist in draining the water more quickly
Drain all of the water out of the tank
Disconnect the garden hose

Please keep in mind that if you are using a bucket, you will most likely have to empty it multiple times.

It is important to ensure that the drain valve is completely closed before moving or emptying the bucket.

Continue Disconnecting Water Heater

TOOLS:You’ll need one wrench to complete this step. Once the old water heater has been completely depleted, remove the T P Relief Valve. It will be linked to your existing water heater on the side, but close to the top, and will have the appearance of a thin pipe. This pipe is linked to the water heater on one end and hangs parallel to the water heater on the other end of the system.

Step 11: Remove Upper Vent Pipe from Water Heater

The vent pipe is the large, thick pipe that comes out of the top of your old hot water heater and vents to the outside. It’s generally found between the water supply pipes in a basement or crawl space. Making sure the pipe is completely cool before proceeding, carefully separate it from the old water heater by pulling it up and out at an angle — towards yourself.

Step 12: Disconnect the Water Pipes

The following tools will be required for this step: two wrenches. Just like you have been doing, use one wrench to tighten one screw at a time. Remove the water pipes from the top of the old water heater with the help of the additional wrench. Allowing them to hang will make the installation of your new water heater much easier. Hot Water Pipe: Find the union on the hot water pipe and tighten it. Once again, these will be merely two nuts that are quite near to each other on the pipe will be involved.

Remove the cold water pipe from your water heater by repeating the previous process, but this time using two wrenches to remove it from your water heater.

Simply explain what you are attempting to accomplish, and they will know precisely what instrument you want.

Then repeat the procedure for the other water line until both water pipes are disconnected from the water heater.

Get Water Heater Pickup and Disposal

That’s all there is to it. You’ve done it! Give yourself a self-congratulatory high-five. You may now arrange for one of our courteous Loaders to come and take up your old hot water heater. You’ve also gained a new skill as a result of the experience. Congratulations on your accomplishment! Do you require assistance? Please do not hesitate to contact us online or by phone at (844) 239-7711, and we will be more than delighted to assist you with getting rid of your outdated water heater. WARNING: Water heaters are quite hefty.

You will need the assistance of two or more persons while removing or installing a water heater if you do not have access to a hand truck.

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How to Remove an Old Water Heater – DIY Tips

A step-by-step instruction on how to remove an old water heater is provided. There’s no need to hire a plumber! The removal of the old unit is a do-it-yourself home activity that is not difficult. The information in this post is an excellent beginning point if you are going to purchase a new heating unit, replace the old one, and dispose of the old one. Tank-type heaters fueled by electricity and natural gas will both be covered.

You will be able to remove your old water heater in just seven simple steps. Keep in mind, though, that your tank may be rather hefty. It became heavy as a result of sediment buildup over the course of many years of operation. This is why you require assistance.

Removing an old water heater – Instructions

A step-by-step instruction on how to remove an outdated water heater. We won’t even need to hire a plumber! The removal of the old unit is a simple do-it-yourself home activity that requires no special skills or equipment. The information in this post is an excellent starting point if you are going to purchase a new heating unit, replace the existing one, and then dispose of the old one. Tank-type heaters fueled by electricity and natural gas will both be discussed in this section. You can remove your old water heater in just seven simple steps. You should be aware that your tank may be rather large. It became heavy as a result of sediment accumulation during many years of operation. The reason you require assistance is due to the nature of your situation.

Compare Quotes from Top-rated Water Heater Experts!Free, No-commitment Estimates.

Get Quotes from Highly Qualified Professionals! Estimates are provided without obligation. Because you won’t have to deal with a gas supply, removing an old electric water heater is considerably more straightforward. It is only necessary to separate the wiring from the heater and label it for subsequent reconnection that you must be concerned with. Removal of the old water heater should take no more than two to three hours overall. It is possible to remove an old hot water heater in a reasonably short period of time if you have the right equipment, know some basic electrical, gas, and plumbing abilities (including soldering pipes), and have the assistance of one or two friends.

Because professional installation may easily add $500 or more to the cost of replacing a traditional tank-style water heater, many homeowners are naturally interested in the option of doing it on their own. Furthermore, while it is considered an advanced project, DIYers with sufficient skill may frequently do the task themselves with a little forethought. It’s crucial to highlight that this is not a project for those who are just getting started. Examining the type of water heater you already have is the first step in learning how to install a new water heater in your home.

Then decide on the size: 30-, 40-, 50-, or larger-gallon containers.
You might consider upgrading to a larger unit if your old one did not provide enough hot water.
However, there must be enough space for the larger heater, the flue size must be correct with proper pitch, and the gas line supplied must be sufficient for the heater’s capacity.
Plumbers bid jobs on the basis of a full day’s worth of labor, however, because the project typically grows more intricate as time goes on.
If you’re not sure in your abilities in these areas, hiring a professional is the best course of action.
When it comes to dealing with gas lines, it’s important to always abide by municipal regulations.

Gas Water Heater Venting

It has been usual practice for many years to use atmospheric venting to vent the combustion exhaust fumes from a gas-fueled water heater. In this arrangement, a metal draft hood mounted on top of the water heater directed exhaust gases and a small quantity of fresh air from the room up a metal flue that ran through the roof or into a shared chimney, depending on the model. In many circumstances, connecting an existing flue and draft hood to a new water heater will be all that is required; nevertheless, there are other elements (such as the pitch and draft of the connections) that can make the operation considerably more involved than it appears.

However, the building code in some localities may demand that a new water heater be vented using a different method every time one is installed.

When living in an air-tight home, this is frequently essential to prevent the gas and airflow via the water heater flue from causing an air pressure differential, which can suck gases from the water heater burner into the dwelling.

This is seldom an issue in older, less air-tight houses, though. The process becomes more difficult if your code dictates that you upgrade from an atmospheric vent to a forced-air direct vent or powered direct vent. The majority of folks should hire a professional for this type of service.

Warning

It has been usual practice for many years to use atmospheric venting to vent the combustion exhaust gases from a gas-fired water heater. In this arrangement, a metal draft hood mounted on top of the water heater directed exhaust gases and a small quantity of fresh air from the room up a metal flue that ran through the roof or into a shared chimney, depending on the configuration. Oftentimes, connecting a new water heater to an existing flue and draft hood will be the most difficult part of the installation procedure.

It is better to leave this process to specialists since if it is done poorly, exhaust gases (including carbon monoxide) can linger inside the residence.
As a result, many places now need a system known as direct venting, in which a specific double-chambered vent pipe transports exhaust gases out the side of the home while at the same time allowing fresh air into the house.
The installation of a power fan to aid the flow of exhaust gas into the direct vent may also be required by code, depending on how far the direct vent must be extended.
The work becomes more difficult if your code dictates that you upgrade from an atmospheric vent to a directly vented or powered directly vented unit.

Materials

Purchase of a new water heater, as well as any necessary shimming, plumbing fittings, and plumber’s pipe-seal tape. a draft cowl for the water heater (if one is required for a gas heater)
Temperature and pressure relief valves (if not already given)
A drain valve for the water heater (if not already provided)
Fittings for vent pipes (where required)
Nipples for galvanized water heaters with a plastic liner (2)
Flexible water heater tubing (if required)
Flexible gas heater tubes (if required)

Shut off the Water, and the Gas or Electricity

Turn off the power to the existing water heater and disconnect the water heater’s plumbing. Turn off the water at the main water cutoff valve in the home or at a branch shutoff valve that controls the cold water that runs to the water heater in the basement. Then turn off the electricity or gas to the building. For an electric water heater, follow these steps: Turn off the circuit breaker for the water heater’s circuit in the breaker box for the house. a. This is normally a double-pole breaker with a 30-amp rating. For a gas water heater, turn off the gas supply at the shutoff valve on the gas line that is closest to the water heater and then turn on the water heater. Water main should be shut off at the water meter. Home-Cost.com

Drain the Water Heater Tank

A garden hose should be connected to the drain valve located towards the bottom of the water heater. Open the nearest hot water faucet, such as the one in the bathroom, to avoid suction from building up in the line, which can cause the draining to become sluggish. Place the other end of the hose over a floor drain or direct it to an open area outside. To prevent silt from clogging the drain valve, open it carefully when first turning it on. Allow the tank to empty entirely before turning off the valve and removing the hose from the tank. It is positioned at the bottom of the water heater, near the drain valve. Getty Images courtesy of Dorling Kindersley

Disconnect the Water Lines

Disconnect the hot and cold water lines from the water heater by using a pipe wrench or channel-lock pliers to tighten the connections. Flexible tubes (usually coupled with compression or union fittings) or soldered connections (soldered connections must be cut with a tubing cutter) can be used to connect the water lines to the heater.

Disconnect the Electrical or Gas Lines

Next, the water heater’s power source must be unplugged from the mains power supply. For an electric water heater, follow these steps: Removing the cover from the wire connection panel at the top of the water heater will reveal the wire connections. Check the individual wires with a non-contact voltage tester to ensure that the circuit is off, and then remove the wire connectors that link the circuit wires to the water heater leads. Remove the cable from the connection box by unscrewing the cable clip and pulling the cable out. For a gas water heater, follow these steps: Remove the gas line from the water heater and make sure the main gas line valve is turned off before reconnecting it to the gas control valve. Depending on the kind of water heater, this gas tube may be a flexible tube covered with vinyl or bare soft copper tubing, or it may be an older water heater with a hard black-pipe connection.

Disconnect the Water Heater Vent (Gas Heaters Only)

The vent pipe should be disconnected from the draft hood located on the top of the heater. In most cases, three or four sheet metal screws are used to attach the draft hood to the exhaust vent pipe. In certain cases, if the draft hood is in excellent condition, it may be possible to repurpose it with the new water heater.

Swap the Old Water Heater for the New

Make a clean separation between your vent pipe and the draft hood at top of your heater. In most cases, three or four sheet metal screws are used to attach the draft hood to the exhaust pipe. In certain cases, if the draft hood is in excellent condition, it may be possible to repurpose it with the new water heater;

Tip

If you live in an earthquake-prone area, there may be brackets or straps that need to be attached to the wall to keep the water heater from moving about while in use. The water heater should be installed. Getty Images
Jim Zuckerman / Getty Images

Install the Relief Valve and Other Fittings

Install all of the necessary fittings that are required for the water heater to function properly. This always comprises a temperature and pressure relief valve (also known as a TPR valve) as well as a drainpipe for discharge. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install any additional fittings that may be required. Relief valve for high temperature and high pressure

Connect the Water Lines

Tie galvanized plastic-lined nipples to the cold water input and hot water outlet ports on the top of the water heater using stainless steel screws. In order to install the nipples, you must first cover the threads with plumber’s pipe-seal tape before threading the nipples into the apertures and tightening them using channel-lock pliers or with a pipe wrench. Connect the cold water pipe to the intake nipple on the water heater, and the hot water pipe to the output nipple on the water heater to complete the installation. In some circumstances, reattaching the flexible tubing that were removed after removing the old heater might be as simple as plugging them back in. When the water pipes are hard-piped into the water heater and cutting is necessary to remove the water heater, the operation becomes a little more difficult. The water heater nipples will be connected to the cold and hot water pipelines through the use of different threaded adapters, short sections of pipe, and union fittings, which will need assembly. The method you use will be determined by the type of pipe you have and the layout of your plumbing system, among other factors. If you have copper pipes, you may need to sweat-solder them together with a torch, but there are compression fittings, grip-fit (SharkBite) fittings, and PEX fittings that can be used with a variety of plumbing pipes. The installation of flexible tubes to link the hot and cold water pipes to the water heater is a suitable time to do so if you do not already have them in place. The water heater will be more easily disconnected if you ever need to repair or replace it in the future. Male-threaded adapters must be attached to both the water heater nipples and the ends of the hot and cold water pipes in order to do this. The flexible tubes are then threaded into the adapters and secured using coupling nuts that screw into the adapters.

Connect the Gas or Electrical Lines

Connect the gas or electricity sources, depending on their location: For a gas water heater, follow these steps: Connect the gas line to the control valve for the gas burner. Use a flexible gas line if it is available and permitted by local regulations. Check for leaks by turning on the gas supply valve and scrubbing the gas union and any gas joints with a soapy water solution until they are clean. If you notice any bubbles, this indicates that the connection is leaking and that it needs to be tightened. If you are still unable to achieve a satisfactory seal without bubbles, contact your gas provider or a plumber for assistance. For an electric water heater, follow these steps: Connect the electrical cable to the water heater’s wire connection box, which is located at the top of the water heater. Wire connectors should be used to connect the circuit wires to the water heater lead connections. The cover plate for the wire connection box should be attached.

Reconnect the Vent (Gas Heaters Only)

In order to use the gas or electricity sources, you must first connect them. In the case of a gas water heater, the following steps must be taken. Glue the gas line to the gas burner control valve and tighten the connections. If possible and permitted by local regulations, use a flexible gas line. Check for leaks by turning on the gas supply valve and scrubbing the gas union and any gas joints with a soapy water solution until clean. In the event that you see any bubbles, this indicates that the connection is leaking and that it should be tightened.

A water heater that runs on electricity is as follows: Connect the electrical cord to the water heater’s wire connection box, which is located at the very top of the unit.

Wire connectors should be used to connect the circuit wires to the water heater leads. Incorporate the cover plate into the wire connection box.

Tip

Shared venting with a chimney or flue that simultaneously serves a furnace (as seen above) is no longer permitted in some municipalities. This means that you may need to hire a professional to reroute the venting for your new water heater in this situation. Getty Images
Comstock / Getty Images

Complete the Installation

Connect the hot water faucet to a distant position in the home, then turn on the cold water supply valve to the water heater, allowing the water heater tank to fill with water until the hot water tap is turned off. When water begins to flow from the hot water faucet, you’ll know the tank is completely full. Turning the circuit breaker back on for an electric water heater will re-energize the circuit that supplies electricity to the water heater. If you’re using a gas heater, make sure the main gas valve is open and that the pilot igniter is functioning correctly by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Make your chosen temperature selection on the water heater’s thermostat (120 degrees Fahrenheit is suggested), then wait for the water in the tank to get up to temperature before using it. Turn on the heater and adjust the temperature of the water heater. Banks Photographs courtesy of Getty Images

DIY Water Heater Installation

Time A busy day of work Complexity IntermediateCost$101–250

Introduction

When your water heater begins to leak, you must act quickly to have it repaired or replaced. We’ll teach you how to set up your own natural gas water heater in less than a day’s time. Even if you do not require a new water heater at this time, it is likely that you will require one within the next few years. Water heaters typically have a lifespan of seven to fifteen years. If yours is beginning to show signs of wear, this post is also for you. If you’re familiar with basic equipment and have a little expertise soldering copper, replacing a water heater shouldn’t be too tough.

Tools Required

Water and gas piping
Discharge pipe
Fittings
Pipe thread compound
Pressure relief valve
Solder. Ventilation pipe and connections
Pressure relief valve.

Getting Started Installing Your New Hot Water Tank

In this example, we’re swapping out a natural gas water heater for an electric water heater. The processes for replacing a propane water heater are identical to those for replacing an electric water heater, and the steps for replacing both are comparable. In any event, when it comes to arranging a water heater replacement, it’s best to be cautious. Call your local department of inspections and inquire as to whether or not you require a permit. Also, be certain that your work is checked by a plumbing or electrical inspector.

Plumbers normally charge between $45 and $65 per hour and can complete the installation of a water heater in a day or as little as 6-8 hours.

Gas water heaters with particular venting systems are also available, although they are more costly.

Water Heater Parts and Breakdown

As part of our demonstration, we’re swapping out a natural gas water heater. Replacing a propane water heater is identical to replacing an electric water heater, and the procedures are almost identical. Anyhow, when it comes to replacing your water heater, it’s best to be cautious. To find out if you require a permission, contact your local department of inspections. Additionally, ensure that your work is checked by a plumbing or electrical inspector. Expenses associated with installation and labor Water heater installation is often completed in a day or within 6-8 hours by a plumber charging $45 to $65 per hour. For the most part, a gas or electric water heater will cost between $150 and $400, with an additional $200 to $450 for professional installation. Gas water heaters with specialized venting systems are also available at a higher price point, though. We will not cover them in this article because they are more complicated to install.

When to get a new water heater

When the tank of your water heater leaks, your water heater is out of commission. An indication that your water heater needs to be replaced is a gradual drop beneath the unit, which commonly manifests itself as a trail of discolored water. This indicates that the steel tank has corroded through and will be unable to be repaired. Other symptoms, such as little or no hot water, are typically indicative of other water heater repair issues that may be resolved by you. If you notice a drop, make a plan to get the water heater replaced as soon as possible.

New water heaters are sent with detailed installation instructions as well as several cautions to ensure that the gas, electrical, and other connections are handled properly.

However, you should be aware that you will be dealing with natural gas, propane, or electricity, all of which are potentially harmful.

And, after you’re finished, get your work examined.

Plumbing codes differ from one location to the next. You should explain to your local plumbing inspector how you want to install your new connections, including the sorts of materials you intend to use. Instead of making changes afterwards, it is preferable to seek advice early.

Figure A: Gas Water Heater Details

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family See the Additional Information section at the end of this article for instructions on how to print this image.

Figure B: Connections for Steel and Plastic Pipe

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family Water supply pipes in many residences are made of galvanized steel or polyvinyl chloride (CPVC). Replaceable galvanized steel pipes are quite difficult to come by. Using our photo series, we propose that you return the pipes to their original tees and screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple before finishing the connections with copper. Plastic tubing should be kept at least 6 inches away from the vent and tank due to the possibility of heat accumulation. Using a specific connection, you may make the transition from plastic to copper.

Flexible copper connectors are less difficult to install than solid copper connectors, which is especially important when the existing pipes and tank inlets do not match up.

If yours does, take extra care not to pinch or kink them when handling them.

Project step-by-step (12)

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-Us. Galvanized steel or polyvinyl chloride (CPVC) water supply pipes are often seen in many residences. Replacement of galvanized steel pipes is a time-consuming endeavor. Using our photo series, we propose that you return the pipes to their original tees and screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple before connecting the pipes with copper. Plastic tubing should be kept at least 6 inches away from the vent and tank due to the possibility of heat accumulation in the material.

You can find it everywhere CPVC is marketed.

However, they are not permitted by all local ordinances.

It is possible that you will have a leak.

Drain the water in the tank

Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and use it to drain the water that has accumulated in the tank. The water will be boiling hot, so proceed with caution! With a pair of wrenches, disconnect the gas line at the neighboring union and remove the pipe from the gas control valve with a pipe wrench to complete the task.

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Cut off the water lines

The vent pipe should be moved to the side once it has been unscrewed from the vent hood. After that, using a tube cutter, cut the hot and cold water lines. For galvanized pipe, remove the unions and, if you have them, remove the nuts on the flexible connections as well. Move the old water heater to the side of the room. Step number four.

Attach the relief valve

Teflon tape should be used to seal the threads of the new temperature and pressure relief valve (three turns).

With a pipe wrench, tighten it inside the tank until it is completely sealed. Glue a copper discharge pipe to the wall (see Fig. A for routing details). Step number five.

Attach pipe assemblies

Solder fresh copper adapters to 6-in. lengths of 3/4-in. copper pipe and screw the assemblies into the hot water outlet and cold water inlet ports on the top of the tank’s tank’s tank’s tank. Make use of short, plastic-lined nipples to protect your pipes from galvanic corrosion, especially if you have hard water or if they are required by your local building standards. Step 6: Organize your thoughts and feelings about the situation.

Attach the water lines

Slide the new water heater into position, recut or lengthen the old tubing to connect it to the new, and solder the tubing together using copper slip couplings to complete the installation. If the tubing does not line up properly, use pairs of 45-degree elbows to adjust the alignment of the lines. Step 7 – Organize your time and resources.

Reattach the vent

Reconnect the vent if necessary. Place it securely over the draft hood and secure it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws to hold it in place. Prepare the holes by drilling them beforehand. Before turning at the first elbow, the vent should rise at least 12 inches vertically from the floor. In this eighth step, you will learn how to use a comma to separate the words “and” and “and not.”

Use two wrenches to attach the gas line

Reconnect the gas line if necessary. Pipe joint compound should be applied to the threaded ends before screwing the first nipple into the gas valve. To minimize straining the valve, use two pipe wrenches at the same time. Reassemble the remaining nipples, concluding with the union at the end of the process (Photo 2). Then, in order to fill the tank, perform these four steps: To check for leaks, perform the following steps: (1) cut off the main water valve; (2) re-connect the water at the main shutoff; (3) open the cold-water valve on the water heater (but do not close it); and (4) turn on a nearby hot-water faucet until water flows out.

Check for backdrafting

The majority of water heaters rely on a natural airflow to carry combustion emissions up the chimney and out of the building. If the draft does not operate, the fumes, which may contain lethal carbon monoxide, will be released into your home and cause you to become sick. Check the draft when you’ve finished installing everything. Close all of your external doors and windows, and put on the exhaust fans in your kitchen and bathroom. Continue to run a hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in your water heater come to life.

Ideally, the smoke should be drawn upward through the vent pipe.

Turn off the gas supply to the water heater and contact a certified plumber to diagnose and remedy the problem.

Check for leaks

Check for leaks by turning on the gas and squeezing a 50-50 combination of dishwashing liquid and water over the connection points. If there are bubbles in the mixture, you have a leak. Joints that are leaking should be tightened or reconnected.

When you’re finished, wipe the joints down with a clean cloth. Make an appointment with the plumbing inspector to have them go at your work. Follow the how-to instructions that are included with the photographs to ensure that the connections are secure. Step 11: Organize your information.

Light the pilot light

The pilot light should be turned on in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. (When using an electric water heater, turn on the electricity at the main panel after your work has been checked by the electrical inspector). Once you’ve finished, adjust the temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit according to the installation instructions. The pilot light in the new water heater should be lit, then the temperature setting should be adjusted.

Installation Details for Electric Water Heaters

At your main electrical panel, turn off all power to your water heater, then turn it back on. After that, empty the water heater in the same manner as you would a gas water heater. As soon as the water heater has been drained, separate the electrical wires from the screw terminals under the access panel, which is normally situated towards the top of the water heater. To handle all of the electrical wiring, you should engage an electrician if you don’t have any prior knowledge with it. When it comes to wiring the new water heater, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

x 4-in.
metal electrical box on the wall or ceiling near the water heater, route the old wires to the box, and then run a new length of armored cable or electrical conduit to the water heater to complete the installation.
The circuit should also have a shutdown switch that is visible from the vicinity of the water heater.
You’ll almost certainly require a permit.
Aluminum wire needs specific care and handling.
This wiring is a dull gray color, rather than the drab orange color that is characteristic of copper wiring.

How to Dispose of a Water Heater

In this video lesson, Jeff Gorton, an editor at The Family Handyman, will show you how to remove and dispose of a water heater in the proper manner. He will also demonstrate a simple method of transporting a water heater out of your home, even if you are working on your own.

These tips will make your work go faster and easier:

To avoid modifying the length of your water, gas, or electrical lines, take note of the height of your existing water heater and get a new one that is the same height
On older water heaters, the drain valve (Photo 2) frequently becomes clogged. Please be patient if the water drains slowly. WARNING: The temperature is really high! TIP: Turn off your water heater two hours before you want to use it to enable the water to cool. Water heaters are around 150 pounds in weight. When you’re moving the old one out and wheeling the new one in, you’ll need a strong partner or a dolly to assist you. Ordinarily, garbage collection agencies charge approximately $25 to remove the old one. Before you begin, go to a plumbing supply or hardware store, or a home center, and purchase the equipment and materials seen below. Check the sizes of the water supply pipes (the majority will be 3/4 in., as shown in our photographs) and purchase the fittings that are the proper size. If you have everything you need, you should be able to complete the work in four to six hours (provided there are no major problems!). This safety mechanism, which controls tank pressure and prevents it from bursting, is located in the tank’s pressure relief valve assembly (Photo 4). It is necessary to include a fresh one with each installation. The discharge pipe must be kept clear of impediments in order for the valve to function correctly (see Fig. A). Use 3/4-in. plastic-lined nipples (about $2 each
Photo 5 and Fig. A) to attach other metals, mainly copper tubing to the steel tank, in areas where the water is highly mineralized or where it is needed by municipal laws. This has the effect of slowing rusting. In order to avoid heating the tank itself during soldering, solder the copper fittings before screwing them to the tank (Photo 5)
Slip couplings should be used to link the existing and new water lines (Photo 6). (Photo 6). They do not have an internal stop, in contrast to normal couplings. Alternatively, you may slip them on, align the copper tubing, then slide them back and center them over the junction
However, the new inlets and outlets on the tank don’t always line up with the old supply lines, and vice versa. If required, solder in a pair of 45-degree fittings to ensure that each line is offset. While you’re doing it, you should also replace the old cutoff valve with a new ball valve (Photo 6). The diameter of the vents is determined by the amount of heat produced by the water heater. In order to achieve the ideal draft, you may need to raise or reduce the ventilation size. CAUTION: If you’re not sure whether or not your chimney has a liner, consult with a plumbing inspector. Make gas connections using solid steel pipe (Photo 8) or soft copper tubing with flare fittings (Fig. A). Both are more dependable and less expensive than flexible stainless steel connections, which are not usually allowed in some applications. For the same reasons, rigid copper water supply lines should be used rather than flexible copper water supply lines
If your water heater replacement is located in a location where leaking might cause damage to the floor or other elements of the home, lay a pan of an appropriate size beneath it (metal for gas water heaters). a drain tube that connects to a home drain or another suitable site must be installed in the pan (outdoors where permitted). If a leak might cause damage to the flooring, the discharge tube for the temperature and pressure relief valves must also connect to a drain. If routing is a problem, consult with your local plumbing inspector about possible solutions. Special straps should be used to secure your water heater to the wall if you reside in an earthquake-prone location (Fig. A
Available at plumbing stores and home centers). If they are necessary, your plumbing inspector will inform you of this. Ensure that the new water temperature setting does not exceed 120 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid scorching

Additional Information

Water Heater Maintenance: How to Extend the Life of Your Hot Water Heater How to Repair a Leaking Water Heater Water Heater Installation Instructions on how to replace the TPR valve on a water heater Solar Water Heater Made at Home How to Repair or Replace Water Heater Dip Tubes That Are Defective How to Flush a Water Heater (with Pictures) The Process of Purchasing a New Water Heater 7 Myths About Tankless Water Heaters That You Should Never Believe The Advantages and Disadvantages of Tankless Water Heaters

How to Remove a Hot Water Tank

Extend the life of your hot water heater by doing regular maintenance on it. Install a new water heater to repair a leaking water heater. Instructions on how to replace the TPR valve on a water heater. Water Heater Made From Solar Energy How to Repair or Replace Water Heater Dip Tubes That Are Defective.

Using a Water Heater, Learn How to Flush It What to Look for When Shopping for a Water Heater 7 Myths About Tankless Water Heaters You Should Never Believe Tankless water heaters have both advantages and disadvantages.

Water Heater Maintenance: Extend the life of your hot water heater. Water Heater Installation Water Heater Repair How to Repair a Water Heater: Changing the TPR Valve Solar Water Heater Made From Scratch Identifying and Repairing Defective Water Heater Dip Tubes Using a Water Heater: How to Flush It A Guide to Purchasing a New Water Heater 7 Myths About Tankless Water Heaters That You Shouldn’t Believe The Benefits and Drawbacks of Tankless Water Heaters

How To Remove An Ancient Water Heater

A water heater removal service can increase the cost of a water heater replacement, so if you’re looking to save money, removing your old water heater yourself may be a good option for you. Follow these procedures to get your water heater removed from your home.

Before You Can Get Started

In order to remove or install a water heater on your property, certain state and local governments may need you to obtain a permit; thus, unless you are intimately aware with your local building rules, you should investigate your local requirements before proceeding. In Allegheny County, if you’re planning to install a new water heater after removing an existing one, you’ll need to pay $10 for a permit to do so. Take a look at the local government website for additional information about obtaining a permit in Pittsburgh.

The Removal Process

The following are the measures you take to remove your water heater:

Disconnect the gas supply to the water heater. It is necessary to switch off the circuit breaker that regulates the water heater before disconnecting the electrical supply lines from those connecting the tank
Otherwise, contact a professional. Applying pressure to the shut off valve will stop the cold water supply going to the tank. Connect a garden hose to the drainage line located at the bottom of the tank to drain the water. Ensure that the other end of the hose is connected to an outside drain
Activate all of the hot water taps around the home. Drain the hot water tank by opening the drainage valve located at the bottom of the tank. totally empty the tank of its water The earthquake straps holding the hot water tank in place (if seismic straps are also used to hold the water heater in place) should be unfastened
The pipes that go to the tank should be unfastened as well, or they should be severed if unfastening the pipes is not an option

After you’ve completed the task of disconnecting the water heater, you’ll be faced with an even more difficult task: removing the water heater from your residence. We’d be lying if we mentioned that the majority of water heaters aren’t very substantial in weight. Numerous water heaters weigh around 150 pounds, and regrettably, many water heaters are situated in quite uncomfortably positioned areas of the home (like the basement). We will not be able to provide you with specific instructions on how to safely remove a water heater from your home because the circumstances surrounding the removal of your water heater will depend on the configuration of your home, the weight of your appliance, and the location of your particular water heater.

We also advocate enlisting the assistance of a few pals.

Now What?

Having completed the task of disconnecting your hot water heater, you are now faced with an even more difficult task: removing the water heater from your residence. The majority of water heaters are really hefty, and we’d be lying if we stated otherwise. A large number of water heaters weigh around 150 pounds, and regrettably, many of these water heaters are positioned in quite awkward spots (like the basement). We will not be able to provide you with specific instructions on how to safely remove a water heater from your home because the circumstances surrounding the removal of your water heater will depend on the configuration of your home, the weight of your appliance, and the location of your particular water heater However, if you find yourself lugging a water heater up or down the stairs, we recommend that you find out the maximum capacity of your home’s staircase in order to verify that your staircase is capable of bearing the load.

Having a few pals to assist is also recommended. You might have a look at thisillustrated depictionof one method of dealing with this difficulty if you’d want to get a better idea of how to go about it.