RV Water Pump – How to Install One and Top Products
*We may get a profit for purchases made through our links.Please visit our disclosure to learn more.With all the current and new RVs being introduced nowadays, an RV water pump is probably already included with your RV.Nowadays, RVs are thorough and complete such that they match actual houses.If you’re unclear how to install your water pump properly, then you’ve come to the perfect spot.We’re going to cover how to replace a worn out and outdated water pump.
Drain Water Tank
The first thing that you’ll want to do is drain the RV’s water tank, ensuring sure that there’s no remaining residue and that everything has been cleaned out completely before continuing.In order to achieve this, you must attach a water hose to the tank’s base and siphon off the water that has accumulated inside the tank.By transferring the water that flows out of the tank into huge pails or drums, you have the option of preserving the water that is produced.Once the water tank is completely depleted, unplug the connection between the water pump and the water tank.During the course of this procedure, you should anticipate some water to spill out.
Remove the Old RV Water Pump
Remove the battery from your RV and disconnect it from the rest of the system.Next, using a screwdriver, remove the wires that are connected to the old water pump – the wires you’re searching for should be red and black in color, as seen in the picture.There are also several hoses that are connected to the water pump that you may use.You should also disconnect them as well.Using a screwdriver or bolt driver, remove the screws and bolts that are holding the old water pump in place, and then carefully unseat and remove the old water pump.
Install New RV Water Pump
Take your new RV water pump and position it in the same location as the old one was previously placed. With a screwdriver, secure it in position, making sure that it is screwed down firmly and securely. Take some Teflon tape and wrap it around the threads of the pipes. Connection of the exit hose and intake hose is completed by using the supporting clamps to attach them both together.
Reconnect Electrical and Water System
After you’ve installed the new water pump, it’s time to link the electrical and water lines to the house.Ensure that the water pump and its associated line are properly connected and securely fastened before continuing.After that, reconnect the red and black wires that you had previously unplugged.Finally, connect the RV’s batteries to the power source.The power to your new water pump should be working properly at this point.
You’ll want to check the system to ensure that the new water pump is properly installed and functioning.Start your RV and check to see whether the water pump goes into standby mode as a first step.Sounds emanating from the water pump should be audible, which indicates that the pump is operational and producing water.According to the type of pump that you have just installed, the sound you will hear will be different.If you are unable to hear anything, you should check the electrical connections to confirm that they are correctly linked before proceeding.Additionally, you should ensure that the RV’s battery is properly connected and operational.
Test the RV Water Pump
After you’ve determined whether or not the new water pump is operational, inspect all of the connections and lines for leaks and holes.Then, fill the water tank with water until it is about a fourth of the way full.Turn on the water pump and let it to run for a while.Go to the sink and turn on the faucet.Because the water pump is still filling the pipes with water, it might take a few of minutes before any water begins to flow out of the faucet.
Allow me to discuss some of the top RV water pumps available on the market today now that you understand how to correctly install an RV water pump.
Pentair SHURFLO RV Water Pump 4008
- The SHURFLO 4008 RV water pump has a flow rate of 3.0 gallons per minute (GPM) and is utilized all over the world. It’s dependable, reasonably priced, and it performs an excellent job of pressurizing the RV water system when you’re not connected to municipal water service. Pros: Designed to be a direct replacement for the majority of current RV water pumps
- Water flow rate of 3 GPM
- check valve integrated into the unit.
- It has the ability to run dry and is self-priming
- Power consumption is 7.5 amps, and the pump shut-off pressure is 55 PSI.
Cons: Pump operation is noisier as a result of the continuous speed – whether the pump is turned on or off.
Click here for prices
Pentair SHURFLO 4048
- This RV water pump by Pentair is a constant speed, large volume RV water pump with a consistent flow rate. In addition to having a flow rate of 4.0 GPM, this 12v RV water pump has a flow rate that is 33 percent greater than the SHURFLO 4008. Pros: The ability to utilize more than one faucet simultaneously
- Water flow rate of 4.0 GPM
- built-in check valve
- capable of running dry and self-priming
- Power consumption is 10 amps, and the pump shut-off pressure is 55 PSI.
- Cons: Because of the constant speed function – which may be turned on or off – the water pump operation is noisier.
- It is possible that you may need to improve your water pump circuit in order to accommodate the increased amperage.
Click here for prices
- This water pump has a variable speed motor and a high volume output of 5.3 GPM. It is a variable speed pump with a high volume output. This is the finest RV water pump for RVs where you want to minimize the amount of time the water pump cycles and where you want steady water pressure when using the RV water pump, according to our research. Pros: Made in the United States of America
- Water flow rate of 5.3 GPM
- power demand of 10 amps
- variable speed
- ability to operate numerous faucets at the same time
- It has the ability to run dry and is self-priming
- It may be necessary to update your water pump circuit to accommodate the greater amperage
- this will be expensive.
Click here for prices
If you own an RV, the odds are good that you’ll require an RV water pump at some point in your journey.Water pumps must be installed correctly, thus understanding how to do so is essential.Moreover, understanding which items are the most popular might be beneficial when you’re looking for a new product.Hopefully, this information has assisted you in correctly identifying and installing a new RV water pump.Amazon and the Amazon logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc.or one of its affiliates.
My initial interest in recreational vehicles and the RV lifestyle has evolved into a quest to share my knowledge and experience with as many people as possible. Come back often to see the latest news, reviews, advice, and information on everything RV-related that has been posted.
Installing an RV Water Pump
With the new and sophisticated recreational vehicles (RVs) that are being introduced nowadays, an RV water pump is most likely already included as a standard feature in the package.RVs nowadays are so extensive and thorough that they can compete with most actual homes in terms of functionality and comfort.For example, the water system is already incorporated into the trailer and has its own water pump that serves the demands of the entire household.This pump, on the other hand, can wear down and finally fail if used on a frequent basis.Replacement instructions for the old, worn-out RV water pump may be found here.
Step 1 – Drain the Water Tank
Drain all of the water from your RV’s water tank and check to see that nothing is left behind and that nothing is left behind is residue.This may be accomplished by attaching a water hose to the tank’s base and siphoning off all of the water.By routing the hose to a drum or many large pails, you may conserve water if you so choose.Disconnect the connection between the tank and the RV water pump at this point.It is still possible for some water to flow out.
Step 2 – Remove Old Water Pump
It is necessary to remove or disconnect the battery from the RV.Remove the cables that were attached to the previous RV water pump with the use of a screwdriver.It is recommended that these cables be black and red in color.Hoses should be attached to the pump at this stage, and you must detach them at this point.Remove all of the nuts and screws that are holding the pump in position.Carefully remove the pump from its resting location after it has been removed.
Step 3 – Install the New Pump
Get the new RV water pump and place it in the same location as the old one.Use the screwdriver to secure it in position, and then tighten the bolts to hold it in place.Get out some Teflon tape and wrap it over the threads of the pipes to keep them from leaking.Connections: Connect the intake hose first, followed by the output hose, and then secure them both with the clamps that hold them together.
Step 4 – Reconnect Water and Electrical System
The water tank’s connection to the pump should be reconnected and secured tightly. Replacing the electrical wire that you had previously disconnected is the next step. Then, reconnect the RV’s battery to ensure that your new RV water pump has a continuous power supply.
Step 5 – Do a System Test
Test the system by turning on your RV and watching to see whether the pump goes into standby mode.You should be able to hear a sound emanating from your pump, which indicates that it has been turned on and is operating properly.The sort of sound produced by your pump will vary based on the model you have installed.If you don’t hear anything, check all of the electrical connections to make sure they are all correctly connected and grounded.Check to see that the battery is operational and that it is properly attached.
Step 6 – Pump Test
Check for leaks and holes in all of the lines and connections once you have confirmed that the pump is in fact operating properly.Fill the tank up to roughly a quarter of the way with water.Turn on the pump and step back to let it do its work.Go to a sink and turn on the water.Although it may take several seconds for the water to start flowing, this is because the RV water pump is still filling the pipes with water before it can get to the faucet.
How to Replace a 12V Water Pump in an RV
Rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com (Photo courtesy of Curtis) Before embarking on your ideal vacation, it’s a good idea to devote some time to completing any necessary repairs to your RV’s operating systems, such as the air conditioning system.If your 12v (12v refers to the rating of 12 volts) water pump is not delivering water as consistently as it should, it is time to replace it.Fortunately, replacing a 12v water pump in an RV can be done in approximately 30 minutes with only a few simple tools and with little effort.Most water pumps are compact and easily accessible since they are designed to conserve space, making the task of replacing one simple.
Remove all energy from outside sources and switch off the breakers at the Inverter to prevent electricity from your battery storage from keeping the lines alive. Shut off the water supply to your RV and disconnect all electricity from outside sources.
Consult your RV’s owner’s handbook to determine where the 12v water pump is. To locate the pump if you no longer have access to your RV’s handbook, go to your water storage tank and follow the pipe or tube that comes out of the top to where it meets the intake connection on the 12v water pump to determine the pump’s location.
With a flat head screw driver, remove the hose clamps from the inlet and outlet connections of the pump, and then pull the hoses away from the pump.
Remove the bolts or screws that are securing the 12v water pump to the RV frame with a flat head screw driver or a socket wrench, depending on your preference.
Remove the two electrical wires from your RV’s power source where they are spliced together with the two wires integrated into the pump and dispose of them.Because the wires are colored red (for power) and black (for ground), if any other color of wire was used to connect the RV power to the red and black of the pump wiring, make a note of which color wire was connected to which color so that you can attach the new pump appropriately.
Remove the old pump from its mounting point and replace it with your new 12v water pump.Initially, reattach the nuts or screws that hold it in place, followed by the wires and finally the hoses.Reconnect your electricity and water lines and do a test on the pump.ReferencesTips Before removing the hose connections, place a few towels below them to catch any water that may still be in the pump and come gushing out throughout the process.
Warnings Make certain that your water hoses are attached to the correct inlets on the pump; otherwise, the pump will draw in air and become damaged very rapidly. Water should be connected to the inlet that is labeled ″out″ or has an arrow written on it before it can be used to connect to your faucets and other water-conserving devices.
Biography of the Author Since 2001, Cassandra Tribe has worked in the construction industry, gaining extensive knowledge and expertise in a wide range of technical fields such as mechanical, scientific, automotive, and mathematics.She has been writing and editing professionally for more than ten years.Her areas of interest include culture and society, automobiles, computers, business, the Internet, science, structural engineering, and the implementation of structural engineering concepts and techniques.
ProGear 3200 RV Water Pump – Shurflo 4008 Revolution Direct Replacement
- The ProGear 3200 RV Replacement Water Pump is designed for RV use. Water is delivered at a rate of 3 gallons per minute and at pressures of up to 50 PSI by the ProGear 3200 RV Replacement Water Pump, which can be used in any travel trailers, fifth-wheels, campers, and motorhomes. The ProGear 3200 is a camper water pump that is made to last, thanks to its one-piece diaphragm and internal bypass, which ensures extended life and performance in any plumbing system. This 12-volt water pump has a high flow rate, low noise, no quick cycling, excellent dependability, and thermal protection. It can be put in any location to meet the needs of the user. In addition to a 6-foot lift and silent operation, our heavy-duty 12-volt DC self-priming RV water pump is CSA-certified and supplies up to 12 volts DC. As a testament to our commitment to quality, the 3200 RV replacement water pump comes with a two-year full replacement guarantee. The ProGear 3200 RV Replacement Water Pump is a direct replacement for the Shurflo 4008/2088 Revolution Pump and is available in both black and white models. Cabins or compact dwellings are suitable for use. Uses This is a replacement water pump for your RV. It is the RV water pump’s responsibility to provide pressurised water from the freshwater tank to the sinks, shower, and toilets. Recreational vehicles (RVs) store their water in built-in freshwater tanks, which are often found at the bottom of the vehicle. This water pump is compatible with the majority of RV brands. Shurflo, Flojet, Lippert, and Seaflo pumps will be replaced by this model. It is a straight replacement for the Shurflo 2088 and 4008 RV water pumps, as well as other similar models. Tiny houses or cottages can be built using this material. Benefits: RV Replacement Water Pump
- compatible with the majority of RV manufacturers.
- It may be used dry without causing harm.
- Pressure switch that shuts down automatically. Water pressure is used to turn on and off the device.
- The product has been approved for use with potable water.
- Operation in the background
- Assembled in the United States of America
- The following characteristics are included: 12 Volts DC. Runs on RV power
- produces 3.0 gallons-per-minute (GPM) with an 8-foot lift
- operates on RV power
- On-demand activation and deactivation
- When the pressure exceeds 55 pounds per square inch, the pump shuts down.
- From the date of purchase, there is a 2-year complete replacement warranty.
- ONLY potable water or water consumption has been approved for this product. There are no pesticides, chemicals, or petrochemicals allowed.
- RV water pumps such as the Shurflo 2008/4008 Revolution, the Flojet, the Lippert, and the Seaflo are all replaced.
- Pump with CE approval
- liquid temperature of -140°F (60°C)
- technical specifications The maximum flow rate is 3.0 gallons per minute (GPM)
- the pump has three chambers and has a priming capacity of 8 feet (4 meters)
- the maximum operating pressure is 150 PSI (10 bar)
- the inlet and outlet ports are 1/2 inch flare MNPT
- the pump weighs 4 pounds (4.844 kilograms).
- What is included within the box? 12-volt RV water pump
- 1/2″ flare MNPT connection fittings
- user manual
ProGear 3200 RV Replacement Water Pump comes with a no-hassle warranty.The following requirements must be met before we will replace or exchange this product for free within 2 years after its initial purchase: 1.The product was purchased from us.For a period of two (2) years from the date of manufacturing, USA Adventure Gear ensures that all pump series will be free of material and workmanship defects (when used and serviced in accordance with manufacturer’s specifications).If the product has been altered or modified, or if it has not been properly maintained, or if the item is returned in an unassembled state, the guarantee will not be honored.The warranty ensures that items will meet or exceed the flow and pressure parameters established by USA Adventure Gear for the duration of the warranty period.
The guarantee does not cover wear and tear, cosmetic defects, overuse, abuse, incorrect application, or exterior water damage, among other things.If the returned product is determined not to be faulty under the terms of this warranty, a fee for repair or replacement may be imposed.This warranty is for a limited period of time.It only covers the product itself, and the scope of the coverage is restricted to the amount paid for the goods in the first place.Water damage, or any other type of damage caused by a leak or other failure is not covered by the guarantee because the manufacturer has no control over shipment, handling, and installation.To make a warranty exchange or replacement request, please contact us by phone or email.
The pleasure of our customers is our number one goal.If you require any further information about this product or have any queries, please see our FAQ section or contact us using the form provided below.
How to Install a Sump Pump
Article to be downloaded article to be downloaded The installation of a sump and pump in older homes that were not built with adequate basement waterproofing systems is a great way to reduce, if not completely eliminate, wet basement problems.If you have a consistent problem with water in your basement, you can learn how to diagnose the problem and determine whether or not a sump pump is the best solution for you.
- 1 During a heavy downpour, inspect your basement for potential problems. It is not uncommon for basement water problems to arise as a result of poor exterior drainage rather than from difficulties in the basement itself. Before you start tearing up your basement, be sure you don’t have any other issues that need to be addressed. Maintain your gutters to ensure that they are clear of clogs and obstructions such as leaves and other debris, and that water can readily flow through them into the downspouts.
- Check to see that your downspouts are carrying water far enough away from your home and that you are not experiencing back flow. Rainwater should be discharged 4–5 feet (1.2–1.5 m) away from the foundation
- ensure that the earth surrounding your foundation slopes at least a couple of feet away from the house. If you have trenches that collect water and drive it downward, you may experience difficulties getting water into your basement. Before you consider installing a sump, address the concerns listed above.
2 Determine whether or not you have a gravel base beneath your concrete floor.In order to compensate for any discrepancies in the excavation process, most homes built in the last thirty years have foundations that are built on a specified quantity of gravel.If you’ve made contact with the home’s builder, you should be able to determine whether or not this is the case; otherwise, you may inquire of neighbors who have comparable houses whether or not this is the case.You might not realize this until you break through the floor, which is another reason why you should consider other options before you get into trouble with your situation.
- Promotional material
- 3 Look around to determine whether you have a suitable area for a sump pump installation. In order to properly release water from the sump pump, you’ll want to locate it near a basement wall. This is because the sump pump discharge must travel at least 10 feet (3 meters) outdoors before it may be discharged. Look for a location that will be convenient to work in and where you will be able to drill a hole through a rim joist to get access to the outside
- Avoid coming into contact with any footings by staying at least 8″ away from the foundation wall.
- Make certain that you will not be cutting into the waterline. If the water enters your home via the wall, you will be alright
- but, you should verify your local construction rules to ensure that the water line will be located where it should be if it enters beneath the home. Typically, the pipes will be run from the street to the sewer pipe at a distance of 4–6 feet (1.2–1.8 m).
4 Draw a line on the floor to represent the outline of the sump liner. It will be simpler to insert the liner into the hole if you leave a 3–4 inch (7.6–10.2 cm) space around it (you will fill in the gap with gravel and concrete later). Advertisement
- 1 Remove the concrete floor from the basement. If you have access to an electric jackhammer, this can be done in a reasonably short amount of time. Cut the concrete you’re removing into manageable bits, rather than simply shredding it, to make it easier to remove. When you’ve finished cutting the squares, use the jackhammer at an angle to pull the pieces out of the way and remove them from the area. Alternatively, you may use a hammer drill equipped with a masonry bit, a decent sledgehammer, and a masonry chisel to complete the job with minimal effort. Begin by drilling holes every few inches in the concrete along the outside perimeter of the structure with the largest masonry drill bit you can fit into the drill
- then, using the hammer and chisel, fracture the concrete between the holes.
- You’ll need to keep drilling holes and smashing the concrete until you can break it up into chunks to remove it. A set of heavy wire cutters or a metal grinder may be required to cut through any reinforcing steel mesh that has been put in your floor.
- 2 Dig a sump hole in the ground. You’ll want to dig the sump pit at least 12 inches deeper than the sump liner to ensure proper drainage. To transport the debris outdoors, fill 5 gallon (18.9 L) buckets with water. When filling the hole, lay or replace some coarse gravel in the bottom to ensure that the sump liner fits flat with the basement floor when it is inserted into the hole. Using this gravel can assist to improve drainage and direct water towards the sump where it can be pumped away (rather than allowing it to leak into your basement at another location)
- Depending on whether the soil is sandy or damp, digging the sump may be challenging.
- If water penetration is causing the hole to deteriorate, there are a few alternatives available to repair the problem.
- You may either wait for the soil to dry up completely, dig quicker than the water can enter, or use a garden hose to remove the water.
- To use the garden hose approach, you will need to install the sump liner in the beginning hole and fill it with water before closing the hole.
- Then, using a garden hose, push it beneath the liner to clean it.
- This will prevent erosion by pushing the sand out from beneath the liner with the water coming from it.
- The liner will descend into the emptiness underneath it as a result of the weight of the liner.
- As the liner is being lowered into the ground, you may need to wriggle it to keep it straight. Depending on the liner used, you may need to drill multiple holes in the liner to enable water to enter so that the pump may pump it out. The diameter of the drilled holes should be lower than the size of the gravel being utilized in order to prevent gravel from passing through.
- 3Insert the liner into the opening. Gravel should be placed around the perimeter of the sump liner, up to a depth of approximately 6″ below the level of the floor. Use any size of gravel between 3/8 and 1/2 inch in size.
- 4Reconstruct the floor with concrete. Pour a 6-inch layer of concrete over the gravel, filling in the floor all the way up to the edge of the sump liner, and allow it to dry. To produce a flat surface on the concrete, use a trowel. You can resume working on the sump when the concrete has had a reasonable amount of time to firm up (at least 8 hours). Advertisement
- 1 Assemble the PVC pipe that will go from the sump pump outlet to the rim joist of your home. For the most part, 1.5″ PVC tubing is used for pumps, but check the instructions that come with your pump to be sure. Leave a small stub of PVC pipe on the exterior, to which you may attach a flexible hose to complete the rest of the installation process. When putting the pipe together, make careful to dry-fit the entire piece before gluing anything down. Work in a well-ventilated area to reduce exposure to solvent fumes, and finish the seals with a caulking compound on both the interior and exterior contact points to ensure that they are watertight. The specific couplings you choose will be determined by the structure of your home and the foundation, making this a job for a somewhat competent DIY plumber.
- To cut a hole through your siding and rim joist, use a hole saw fitted with the right sized bit and blade. If possible, bore from the outside in with a 2 inch (5.1 cm) drill bit
- otherwise, bore from the inside out.
2 Connect the pump to the power source.Place the pump in the liner, attach the final portion of pipe, and connect the pump to the electrical outlet.It may be required to drill multiple holes in the liner in order for water to be able to enter and then be pumped out of the system.The diameter of the holes that are drilled must be lower than the size of the gravel that will be utilized in order to prevent gravel from entering the sump liner.
- 3Check the float position in the water. Pumps are available with a variety of floats, but regardless of the kind, it is critical to ensure that the float on the pump is not obstructed in order for it to rise and fall in tandem with the water level in the sump. During the flow of water into the sump, the float’s level must be high enough to trigger the pump’s switch and low enough to allow it to descend back down without being trapped between the pump and sump liner wall. The majority of the time, it is only a question of repositioning the pump in the sump liner, but it is always a good idea to double verify your setup.
- 4Install your check valve as directed. In order to avoid a motor burnout and an unending on/off cycle, this device is employed to remove the water that remains in the tube after the pump has stopped. The majority of check valves are supplied with hose clamps and couplings that are marked with directional arrows. 5Plug in the pump and run it through its paces to ensure that it is working properly.
- 6 Fill a bucket halfway with water and run your rig through it. Check for leaks in the pipe and make sure it empties outdoors as you want it to, as well as that your check valve operates properly when you shut it off after you are finished. Advertisement
- Question Add a new question Question Is it necessary to drill holes in the bucket’s rim to facilitate drainage? No, the lid is just there to keep the hole closed for safety and/or fragrance reasons. If there is water flowing out of the top of the sump pit, this indicates that the pump is not functioning correctly.
- Concerning the Question The reason why there is a hole on the side of the pipe that is spewing water is unknown. Bleeder holes are often located a few inches above the pump outlet in the disharge pipe, which is deep within the pit. This hole prevents airlock from forming and also helps to minimize the first surge current. Because of this water drain, the pump does not have to push on as much static water to get started as it would otherwise.
- Concerning the Question How far down do you want to bury the sump pump? In order to ensure that the pump sits on a firm and level surface, it is recommended that you place a 10×10 patio block at the bottom of the pit or bucket. Even when not moving water, it may cause significant vibration
- the plastic tub itself is a slick surface. The pump should be installed in the pit at the lowest feasible level in order to drain the first symptoms of increasing water.
- Question Why would someone put a Y-Joint in the PVC pipe that runs from the pump to the concrete floor below the level of the concrete floor? In order to fully grasp the principle behind this setup, a nice illustration would be beneficial. The wye is most likely employed to take up or remove fluid from a level lower than the pump’s base. This functions in the same way as what some people refer to as a jet pump (works on what is called a venturi principle).
- Concerning the Question What part of the bucket do you want to cut the holes out of? In order to allow ground water to infiltrate into the bucket, drill holes around the outside of the bucket’s perimeter. In order to prevent stones from slipping into the bucket and causing damage to the pump, the holes should be smaller than the stones you lay in the surrounding hole. Generally speaking, 1/4-inch holes every 2 to 4 inches should be sufficient.
- Question How far away from a pump should a check valve be installed? The majority of people place it around 6 inches above the sump pit lid. If you need to replace it in the future, you don’t want it buried in a wall. When piping away from a sump pump, what is the best downhill slope to use? This is not a DWV issue, but rather a pump problem. When the pump is turned off, the pipe will remain full of water, therefore there is no need for a downward slope. It’s possible to include one, but it’s not required.
- Concerning the Question What is the proper way to connect my sump pump to the drain line? It is not recommended that you connect it to your main drain. If it floods and the sewers back up, you will have water backed up into your home, which is not good. A separate, well marked line should be run out the side of your house, at least 10 feet away. What is the function of a check valve? The check valve restricts the flow of water to one direction alone. As long as the pump is operating under pressure, it permits water to be released through the discharge pipe. Whenever the water level falls and the pump is turned off, the check valve stops the water already in the discharge line from draining back into the pump and allowing it to continue to operate. Install the check valve in the proper direction so that it enables discharge but does not allow drain-back into the system. My question is that I have two pipes that come into the sump from the side. Is one an inlet and the other an outlet? These, if they are larger (for example, 4), ″The pipes (which are around 1 inch in diameter) are most likely the pipes from an internal weeping system. Both of them are inlets. In the interior weeping system, pipes with perforations to collect ground water are put adjacent to the foundation wall and below the footing, slanted towards the sump pit, and then covered with gravel and finally cement. When the water rises up from beneath your house, it enters the hollow aperture of the pipes and then runs down these pipes by gravity to the sump pit, where it is pushed out by a pump (to either the exterior to the house or into the house sewer line). Even if your basement is unfinished, there should be evidence of newer concrete put in a band of about 18 inches wide in your basement ″outward from the base of the foundation wall You’ll require a pump.
- More information can be found in the following answers: Inquire about something There are 200 characters remaining. Include your email address so that you may be notified when this question has been resolved. Advertisement submissions are welcome. It is recommended to use a flexible rubber connection in the pipe to enable for removal and service while also reducing noise.
- To prevent silt from entering the pump, wrap a filter membrane around the liner (or under it if using a bottom-less liner).
- To service the pump, use a mechanical clamp between the pump and the liner.
- Consider installing a sump pump system with a battery backup. It will have a 12 volt direct current pump, a ″deep cycle″ battery with a charger, a float switch switch, and a ″high water″ alarm in addition to the existing components. If your power goes out during a big downpour (when your pump is most likely to be engaged), you might wind up with a flooded basement, which is a major inconvenience. As long as the battery is charged or until the power is restored, the second pump will operate.
- The vast majority of sump pumps are operated by electricity. Another sort of pump is one that siphons flood water using potable water. In order to prevent contamination, these sorts of pumps are often equipped with a double check valve in the potable water system.
- Thank you for submitting a suggestion for consideration! Advertisement Wearing hearing and dust protection when cutting concrete is recommended.
- When mixing and handling concrete, gloves should be used.
- Always wear eye protection when outside.
Things You’ll Need
- 5 gallon (18.9 L) buckets for excavation
- plastic sump liner
- 4-8 cubic feet of coarse gravel
- 1 bag of ready-mix concrete
- and an electric mini-jackhammer
- A trowel, a concrete mixing tub, PVC pipe (the diameter of which is dependent on the pump being used), and a submersible sump pump are all required.
About This Article
To begin installing a sump pump, locate a large enough area near a basement wall and trace an outline of the sump liner on the basement floor, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.After that, remove the concrete floor and excavate a sump hole that is at least 12 inches deeper than the liner to collect the water.After that, lay gravel around the perimeter of the sump liner and pour concrete over the top of the liner to complete the installation.Finally, connect the PVC pipe from the pump outlet to the rim joist of the house, lower the pump into the liner, and connect the pump to the electrical outlet.Continue reading to find out how to install a check valve in your vehicle!Did you find this overview to be helpful?
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A Guide to Do-It-Yourself RV Water Supply Systems
- A sink and a water supply are essential for any recreational vehicle. The practice of customizing van conversions or entirely renovating vintage motorhomes in order to build the recreational vehicle of your desires is becoming more popular than ever before. While this undoubtedly allows you to create an RV that is tailored to your own desires and requirements, it also comes with a plethora of options. In your rig, for example, what type of water supply and sink system are you planning to install? There are a number of choices to consider, each of which has its own set of pros and downsides to consider. Lucky for you, I just chose to improve the water supply and sink in my class B van, so I’ve already completed all of the necessary research on your behalf. In this guide, we’ll go through the advantages, disadvantages, and product recommendations for: city water hookups
- electric pumps
- hand pumps
- foot pumps
- and other water-related products.
Throughout the essay, I’ll also guide you through the system overview of each, so that at the end of it, you’ll have a very solid understanding of what it takes to upgrade your RV’s sink and water supply.
Things to Consider Before Choosing a Water Supply System for Your RV
Regardless of whether it’s a pop-up camper or a massive motorhome, each brand new recreational vehicle will come equipped with a water supply and sink.Because of this, this book is intended for those who are doing a comprehensive refurbishment of their RV or who are exploring enhancements to their present system.Both the municipal water connection and the freshwater connection on this property are out of date.When it comes to updating both systems, there are a few possibilities.With that in mind, examine the following five considerations before proceeding to the next section: 1.
What characteristics are most important to you? Think at it this way: would you want a sink that provides hands-free flowing water or one that conserves water?
What is the size of your recreational vehicle? This will decide how large of a freshwater holding tank you can build, as well as whether or not you have the room to set up a system with an electric pump and tankless water heater, depending on your needs and preferences.
What is your financial situation? The least expensive systems are also the least technologically advanced.
What kind of energy do you have? Is having adequate electricity a non-issue for you, or do you rely on a little solar-powered grid to get by? The response will decide whether or not you are qualified for a system that includes an electrically powered pump.
What is your degree of DIY expertise? If you’re new to renovations and don’t have a lot of previous experience, you’ll probably want to go with a low-technology system.
Different System Types for Your Sink
There are a few different options for supplying running water to your sink or other plumbing needs. We’ll go through a handful of the most frequent and fundamental setups in the section below.
City Water Hookups
A city water intake enables RVers to connect to the municipal water supply in their own communities.A city water hookup enables you to connect directly to the municipal water supply system in your area.When you are parked in a campground, you may connect a hose from a spigot to a port (also known as an inlet) on the outside of your recreational vehicle.After that, a tube extending from the port to your sink provides a constant stream of water that can be controlled by turning the faucet lever.
Pros to City Water Hookups
- The following are some of the advantages of having a city water connection: Water flows consistently without the need for a freshwater tank, an electric pump, or a manual pump.
- It has the potential to be the most cost-effective option
- It’s ideal for RVs with little storage space
- It’s completely hands-free.
- The process of installation is basic.
Simply put, it is for these reasons that I have a municipal water hookup installed on the outside of my self-converted class B van. It doesn’t go anywhere else; it only goes to my sink. However, it is not the only water system that I own, for the reasons that will be discussed further down.
Cons to City Water Hookups
- A municipal water hookup is likely not going to be the only water system you want or need, despite what would appear to be a long list of obvious advantages. Consider the following drawbacks: Cut a hole in the side of your vehicle
- this will be your first step.
- You will not have access to water if you are not near a connection.
That second factor is the most important reason why you’ll need more than simply a city water connection for your rig to function properly. You won’t be able to get too far beyond the campsite unless you have some form of tank-based system.
My own city water hookup setup will be described in detail in the next section.This is a pretty straightforward setup that just serves one sink in my modest recreational vehicle.In addition to a sink, a few beverage-grade hoses and clamps, and a greywater tank, you’ll need the following items: a dishwasher An intake for municipal water This municipal water intake from JR Products is a dependable and widely used product.It’s the one I’m now using on my own rig.In order to install it, you’ll need to cut a hole in the side of your RV and connect it to a hose that will run to your sink and water supply (or whatever else you want to supply).You may get a fast idea on how to set it up by watching the video below: A hose that delivers potable water When you arrive at the campsite, this is what you’ll use to connect the spigot or connection to your inlet.
A hose that does not impart strange flavors or leach chemicals into the water is essential, especially if you intend to utilize it for drinking purposes.This 25-foot-long hose from Camco is not just lead and BPA-free, but it is also the number one best-selling drinking water hose on Amazon, according to customer reviews.A regulator of atmospheric pressure There are certain campgrounds where the water pressure is too strong for the little tubes that go through your RV.If you don’t take precautions, it might cause significant injury.Connect a lead-free pressure regulator, such as this one, to the spigot before attaching the potable water hose to the hose fitting.You’ll be able to keep track of and regulate the amount of water that flows into your RV.
This method is explained in further detail in the video below: This RV sink may be powered by either a municipal water connection or by a freshwater holding tank powered by an electric pump.An electric pump pulls water from your freshwater holding tank and distributes it to your sink or any other plumbing fixtures you may have in your house.Simply turn on the faucet and you will have fast access to flowing water.
Pros to Electric Pumps
The primary advantage of electric pumps is that they provide hands-free flowing water no matter where you are in your home or business.If you’re camping, you don’t have to be connected to city water in order to use the sink and shower facilities.According to many individuals, this is a compelling enough argument to proceed with the installation of an electric pump.It is, without a doubt, the most convenient of all the alternatives presented in this article.
Cons to Electric Pumps
- It is unlikely that this degree of ease will be a priority for everyone. Take a look at the following drawbacks: Installation is difficult, and it is also costly.
- There are various extra components required.
- Because of this, it might place a strain on your electrical system, which is not ideal if you’re trying to conserve energy in your RV.
- If you want to conserve water, this isn’t the greatest option.
- It necessitates a significant amount of room, which is not always achievable in certain smaller RVs.
In addition to a sink and a greywater tank (which, as you’ve already guessed, are required for all of these systems), you’ll need the following items: Pump powered by electricity SHURFLO is the industry-leading brand of RV electric pumps.Despite the fact that it can pump three gallons per minute and operates on 12V DC, several customers have stated that it is remarkably quiet when in use.Tank for accumulator You’ll also need an accumulator tank if you want to get the most out of your pump.It’s critical for maintaining high water pressure while avoiding overheating your water pump.Strainer Installing a strainer in the head of your pump completes this final piece of the jigsaw.This will keep junk out of the pump, which would otherwise cause it to malfunction and shorten its lifespan.
tank for storing freshwater Due to the fact that electric pumps tend to use a lot of water, you’ll need a freshwater tank that can handle the load.Many of the hoses, clamps, and fittings you’ll need to connect this 20-gallon tank from Barker Manufacturing to your pump are included with the purchase of this tank.Water heater that does not require a tank While it is not required, it is likely that if you enjoy the ease of an electric pump, you will also enjoy the convenience of having quick hot water.A tankless water heater can heat your water supply quickly, eliminating the need to store it in a separate storage tank.This tutorial will lead you through the finest selection as well as important factors to take into consideration.Check out this complete description of how to install an electric pump in your recreational vehicle for an even more in-depth look at the process.
Using the hand pump on the right, you may manually draw water from a tank.When there is access to a municipal water hookup, the faucet on the left is connected to a city water inlet and may be used to draw water.In the event that you do not wish to fiddle with electrical components, a hand pump may be the best option for you.Using a hand pump, you may take water from your freshwater tank by turning the handle back and forth.Because it places no strain on my solar-powered electrical system, it is a very simple solution that I personally use and love in my RV.
Pros to Hand Pumps
- The following are some of the advantages of using a hand pump: There is no requirement for electricity.
- Installation is simple, and they are reasonably priced.
- The all-in-one design helps to conserve room in tiny recreational vehicles.
- They assist you in conserving water
Cons to Hand Pumps
Hand pumps aren’t for everyone, and that’s okay. In the event that you like to wash dishes or perform other tasks with your hands free, this is probably not the greatest solution for you.
Take a glance under the surface to see my freshwater and greywater tanks.The following is a diagram of my hand pump setup.It’s simple enough that even someone who has no prior DIY knowledge should be able to do it on their own.Pumping using one’s hand Valterra’s chrome hand pump is what I’m now using.It’s more frequently found on boats, but it works just as well in my recreational vehicle (RV).Cut a hole in your sink or countertop before you begin installing the faucet.
Tank for storing freshwater A transparent beverage-grade connection connects the hand pump to my freshwater tank, which is now a durable and BPA-free seven-gallon Aqua-Tainer tank.For added stability and to minimize splashing while the RV is moving, I put a threaded PVC fitting into the spigot aperture.Tank for greywater The black drain tube that comes with the sink empties into a smaller grey tank below the sink.This is where I collect all of my greywater.An alternative to a greywater tank is a portable tote tank, which may be carried about with you.These tote tanks may store either grey or black water, and they are equipped with wheels to allow you to transfer them to the nearest dumping station with no difficulty.
Check out our buying guide to get the finest tote tank for you.This is only an illustration of how a manually pumped tank-based system may function.I have a modest class B RV, which means I have a small system to power it.Using the same concepts, but on a bigger scale, you may apply them to your automobile.Check out this tutorial to see yet another example of how some RVers have used this method in their rig.
Another manual alternative that may be attached on the floor of your RV is a foot pump. You press down on the pedal with your foot, and water is drawn from your freshwater tank and into your kitchen sink. However, RVers are increasingly exploring using this strategy for their customized cars, which is something that has historically been used on boats.
Pros to Foot Pumps
- If you enjoy the notion of a manual pump but would prefer a bit more convenience, this may be the option for you. Here are some other advantages: You can have flowing water without having to use your hands
- In terms of power, it’s somewhat more powerful than a hand pump.
- It is still possible to conserve water.
- Installation is simple enough for even inexperienced DIYers to complete.
All things considered, this is a good middle ground when it comes to convenience, affordability, and ease of installation.
Cons to Foot Pumps
- Of course, there are certain drawbacks, including the following: While somewhat more expensive than a hand pump, it is worth the extra money.
- You’ll have to purchase an additional faucet.
In addition to the standard sink, freshwater tank, and greywater tank, you’ll require the following items: With some tubing, you’ll also be able to link the following components together: Pumping with one’s foot This foot pump was designed by the marine supply business Whale for use in boat galleys, but many RVers have discovered that it works just as well in compact rigs.With their foot pump, Faucet Whale offers a matching faucet that is ideal for use with the pump.It does not have any handles, and it will automatically begin giving water as soon as you touch the pump’s button.
Install or Upgrade Your RV’s Water Supply System Today
In order to supply flowing water to your sink, you may use a variety of methods.You may either take the usual path with municipal water hookups and electric pumps, or you can experiment with energy and water-saving methods such as hand pumps and foot pumps to see which works best for your situation.Whatever your requirements and limits are, whether they are financial or spatial in nature, there is a solution that will meet your requirements.
How To Prime RV Water Pump: The Steps To Follow
Rvtalk.net is financed by its readers.If you make a purchase after clicking on one of our affiliate links, we may receive a commission.Any avid RVer is well aware of the significance of the RV water pump.When you’re out in the woods or in a distant location where there isn’t a safe drinking water supply, it serves as a reservoir for fresh water.What would happen if you find yourself in such a situation and the pump does not have adequate pressure to send water via the pipes to your location?
The only way to deal with this issue is to learn how to prime an RV water pump properly.
Why Does a Water Pump Need Priming?
When you’re boondocking, having a defective water pump is the most frustrating thing you can experience.When it has been inactive for an extended period of time, it requires priming.A lengthy period of inactivity causes the pump’s efficiency to deteriorate, and as a result, it is unable to generate sufficient pressure to squirt water from the tank to the lines.It is possible that a freshly installed pump will require priming prior to operation.It is really flushing back the pump and forcing it through that is the process of priming.
It is possible to restore appropriate jetting pressure to the pump by doing so.The procedure is straightforward, requiring only a few simple instruments and involving no difficult steps.RVs are equipped with built-in tanks that may hold anything from 50 to 200 gallons of fresh water.The power of a pump is determined by how many gallons of water it can push out per minute.Pumps are available in two voltages: 12V and 24V.The first variety is the most common and has a capacity of around 3.5 gallons per minute.
Because most travel trailers are powered by a 12V battery, this is an excellent option.If you have a large RV, vehicle, or skoolie, a 24V pump could be the best option for you.These pumps are capable of generating greater levels of water pressure and delivering more than 5 gallons per minute of water.Larger pumps, on the other hand, are not necessarily preferable because they generate high pressure in the RV’s plumbing system, which increases water and power expenditures.
How to Prime RV Water Pump: Fix RV Water Pressure
- As a result of its position beneath the bench seats, reaching the water pump might be a little difficult. In certain recreational vehicles, it may also be found inside the kitchen cabinets. Finding the location of the RV’s user handbook is the quickest and most straightforward method. Follow the water line below the kitchen sink if you have misplaced it or are unable to follow the instructions properly. Eventually, it will take you directly to the water pump. Once you’ve located the water pump, the following step is to gather the items that will be required for priming it. The following are the components of how to prime an RV water pump: A jar, rubber tubing, a flat head screwdriver, and water are all needed.
Following the acquisition of these few straightforward goods, you must proceed to the following step, which is priming the pump.
Instructions: How to Prime RV Water Pump
It’s as simple as following these procedures one by one to restore the pressure that has been lost in your RV freshwater pump:
Disconnect the outlet line.
The water line that comes out of the pump has to be disconnected before proceeding with the rest of the procedure.It is necessary to loosen the attaching collar in the connection point by turning the screw in the collar counterclockwise until the collar becomes loose.It should be loose to the point where you can easily take the hose off with minimal effort on your part.If you’re having trouble identifying the line, check for a transparent plastic tubing that comes out of the pump to help you.In your RV, this line is responsible for supplying water to the kitchen sinks, showers, and toilets.
Clamp the outlet line.
Connect the rubber hose to the output line using a hose clamp.After connecting the water outlet hose to the outlet spout, slide the collar of the water outlet line toward the end of the rubber hose and secure it in place.It is sufficient to just screw down the clamp to secure the attachment.In order to ensure that the hose and water line are same in diameter, the hose must be long enough to protrude from the pump.In addition, the hose should be constructed to carry drinking water, which should be avoided at all costs.
It is not recommended to utilize a hose that has been developed for another function since it may be unsanitary.
Pour Water into the rubber hose.
Fill a 12-ounce mason jar halfway with water.Maintain a high position for the rubber hose so that it remains above the level of the pump.Pour the water into the hose and close the open end with your thumb to keep the water from escaping.Turn on the water pump and let it a minute or two to work.It should be sufficient to allow for the development of water pressure.
If you execute it correctly, you will feel water contacting the tip of your index finger.It indicates that the pump is generating sufficient pressure to allow the water to pass from the tank to the connecting lines without being obstructed.After that, turn off the pump and continue on to the next procedure.If you choose to utilize the hose that is attached to your kitchen sink for this step, the volume of water that is poured must be at least one gallon.Even a tiny amount of water might cause an air trap to form within the pipe.
Reconnect the outlet line.
Due to the fact that you have successfully primed the water pump, it is now necessary to reconnect the water line.Remove the rubber hose from the outlet and attach it to the pump’s inlet line using the connector provided.Tighten the screw that holds the connecting collar in place.You have completed your task!This video demonstrates how to prime an RV water pump.
Turn on the kitchen faucet first, and then turn on the water pump.If the water pressure is sufficient, water will flow through the faucet in a matter of seconds.WARNING: Some individuals use antifreeze in the water lines of their vehicles when storing them for the winter.Having done so, you will need to keep the faucet running until there is no trace of antifreeze left in the water.Antifreeze is detrimental to human health, and drinking it with water may make you very sick.
Priming an RV water pump is a straightforward procedure that may be completed without the assistance of a professional. Never forget to check the water pressure in your home before embarking on any excursion. You may resolve the low or non-existent pressure issue within an hour.
How to Do Your Own RV Water Pump Replacement
In most cases, replacing an RV water pump is not a part of your usual maintenance regimen when you own a recreational vehicle.After all, a water pump should endure for many years under typical operating conditions if it is properly winterized during the off-season period.So, how will you know whether it’s time to do routine maintenance on your water pump or whether it’s time to replace it entirely?
When Do You Need to Do an RV Water Pump Replacement?
It’s most probable that you’ll notice that your RV water pump needs to be replaced when the water no longer runs as smoothly as it used to.A faulty water pump is most likely to be found when you turn on your pump and open a faucet inside your RV.If you switch on your pump and open a faucet but the pump does not come on and the water does not run, the water pump has most likely failed.In the days or weeks leading up to a total shutdown of the system, it’s probable that you observed that your water pressure was becoming more fussy or variable than usual.This might be an indication that the water pump is about to fail.
The presence of water seeping from the pump or peculiar noises emanating from the unit are two more signs that it may be time to replace your water pump.In the fourth instance, some RV owners may decide to replace a water pump simply because they want to upgrade to a more efficient or quieter type.Whatever the cause for your consideration of changing your RV’s water pump, we’re here to guide you through the process of doing it on your own time.As long as you know what to anticipate and arrive prepared, it’s a reasonably straightforward procedure to complete.Now that we’ve taken care of that, let’s get this party started!
What You’ll Need for an RV Water Pump Replacement
The majority of the things on your list are tools that you most likely already have on hand or that you can quickly obtain from a nearby hardware shop.A drill or screwdriver, wire cutters, a wire stripper/crimper, spade connectors, a basin or bucket to capture some water, and maybe even a sponge or cloth for the same reason are among the tools you’ll need.Make sure to account for the fact that you will most likely need to acquire a specialist item such as the water pump itself ahead of time.It was necessary to replace our failing water pump with an Aquajet from Remco Industries, model AES 55.(but check out our post about the 5 Best RV Water Pumps to see if a different choice would be best for you).
If you prefer to read rather than watch a video, you may find it more convenient to follow the step-by-step instructions provided below.To the extent that you like to see things rather than read them, you’ll probably appreciate our DIY tutorial video, in which we demonstrate how we changed our water pump.
How to Do an RV Water Pump Replacement Step-By-Step
Once you’ve gathered your tools and new parts, you’ll be ready to begin the process of replacing the pump. It’s time to say goodbye to the old and hello to the new! If you follow the methods outlined below, it should be rather simple:
1. Turn Off City Water and Water Pump
The first step you should do whenever you are working on your RV’s plumbing is to cut off the city water if your RV is linked to a municipal water supply. Additionally, you’ll want to turn off the water pump.
2. Remove Water Pump Fuse
Additionally, you should unplug the fuse that powers the water pump as an extra precaution. This may be found on the 12-volt electrical panel in your home.
3. Turn on a Faucet
Some individuals like to turn on all of the faucets at the same time in order to bleed out any remaining water pressure in the plumbing system. Although this may be a more expedient method of draining the water, just one tap will be required. Once a single faucet has gone dry, you can proceed to the next phase in the process.
4. Disconnect Water Pump from Latching Controller if Applicable
A latching controller enables an RV to use numerous on/off switches for the water pump, which saves space and time.You will be able to turn on and off the water pump from several locations, such as the bathroom, water bay, or kitchen.If your system is equipped with a latching controller, it is most likely to be found close to the water pump.Your RV should have a box with many wires coming out of it that feed into the different water pump switches.(If your RV just has a single control for the water pump, it is possible that it does not have a latching controller.) Start with the ground wire from the latching controller that connects to the pump, which is often black.
Continue until the power is completely disconnected.After disassembling the controller, you may wish to snap a photo of it before disconnecting any wires