What Does the Bonding Wire on a Water Heater Do?
- Bonding wire fittings are required on water heaters that are connected to copper pipes in some areas due to local building standards.
- This is a requirement under New Jersey law, as well as certain other state and local laws around the country.
- Even though it is not needed by the National Electrical Code, many plumbers will install a bonding wire even if it is not required by the code itself.
- The bonding wire is typically a thick copper wire that is secured to the cold water pipe at one end and to the hot water pipe at the other end with brass clamps.
- The parts are inexpensive (about $10) and can be installed in minutes.
- When you consider that just a few building regulations demand the use of a bonding wire, there is some debate about whether or not it is necessary.
- Those who support their usage base their arguments on one of two lines of reasoning.
- It is one of the reasons for installing a bonding wire because it can prevent electrolysis from occurring when different metals are linked together.
- When a water heater is connected to copper pipe, the union at the point where the copper meets the steel fittings on the water heater is subjected to a minor electrical potential, which can cause corrosion to progress more quickly.
- In order to allow the feeble current flowing between the water pipes to avoid the copper-to-steel fittings and so prevent corrosion caused by electrolysis, the bonding wire must be placed between them.
- One of the reasons given by code authorities and plumbers who commonly install bonding wires is that the bonding wire will aid in the reduction of corrosion of pipe fittings and interior elements, such as the anode rod, in the pipeline.
- The fact that the water heater is connected to PEX or any other non-copper plumbing pipes should be noted because electrolysis cannot occur in these situations.
- If your pipes are made of materials other than copper, installing a bonding wire is not necessary for corrosion protection.
Plumbing System Grounding
- The bonding wire, according to another school of thinking, is necessary to ensure that the whole plumbing system’s electrical grounding is completed.
- In order to comply with building codes, metal pipes must be electrically grounded.
- This is often accomplished by grounding the cold water input line to the dwelling.
- The water heater establishes a barrier between the cold water pipes and the hot water pipes in a home’s plumbing system.
- It is believed that electrically linking the hot water pipe to the cold water pipe at the water heater would help to assure that the entire plumbing system will be electrically ground.
- It should be noted that a bonding wire is not required on a water heater according to the National Electric Code (NEC).
- The logic behind this is that the metal casing on the water heater itself is considered adequate to complete the continuous grounding line between the cold water and hot water pipes in the residence.
- Nonetheless, there are electricians and local building codes that are adamant in their support for the water heater bonding wire as a necessary safety precaution.
- According to some building inspectors, the presence of dielectric unions on the copper pipe fittings on the water heater indicates that a bonding wire must be connected between the hot and cold water pipes to ensure proper operation.
- Dielectric unions are unique fittings that are used in situations where different metals are linked in order to prevent corrosion induced by electrolysis from taking place.
In order to restore the grounding of the whole plumbing system after the dielectric union breaks the path of metal continuity and thus disrupts the grounding channel, the bonding wire must be connected to the dielectric union.Note that a plumbing system using PEX or other types of plastic water supply pipe does not require any type of electrical grounding to be installed in the system.
- After everything is said and done, it’s always preferable to abide by the rules and regulations of your local building code when it comes to installing a water heater bonding wire.
- It is possible that the bonding wire will provide some corrosion protection benefits if you are installing a water heater on your own if the water heater is linked to copper plumbing lines.
- As an added benefit, a continuous electrical rounding channel to all metal plumbing pipes in the system may be established with the aid of the bonding wire.
Edwin Ruud, a Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania inventor, invented the world’s first automated water heater in 1889. The Ruud Manufacturing Company, which he founded, is still in operation to this day.
Electric Water heaters and Earthing Protection
- Electric water heaters that are not functioning properly might cause shocks while we are in the shower, sometimes with catastrophic effects.
- The earthing (also known as grounding) of electric water heaters is a critical safety measure for any structure.
- It is also required by code.
- In this section, we will examine how to safeguard yourself by ensuring that your electrical installation is earthed or grounded properly.
Earthing Electrical circuits can save our lives
- A poorly installed electrical system in our houses is most likely the most prevalent major threat to life and limb.
- A guy was electrocuted in his shower in Ubud a few years ago when a defective electric water heater caused him to become engulfed in water.
- Was it a poor electrical installation, or was it a faulty water heater that caused the problem?
- Fact is, if the electrical installation was sound, the defective water heater should not have resulted in his death from the heat.
- We may never know the specifics of his particular situation, but it is astonishing, if not downright frightening, how frequently individuals get electric shocks in showers.
- Obviously, something like this should occur, so let us explore how it occurs and what is necessary to give even the most basic of safeguards.
Earthing or grounding of an electric water heater.
- In order to heat water, an electric water heater contains a steel tank that is normally coated with stove enamelled paint and covered on the exterior with some type of heat insulating material.
- The heater receives cold water through a PVC pipe, which is often used.
- There is an electric heating element installed within the tank, which is connected to a typical electrical three-core cable that is comprised of live, neutral, and ground wires.
- Everything is pretty straightforward and straightforward.
- Short circuits can occur if the heater is improperly fitted, as a result of a short circuit between the live wire and the tank.
- Alternatively, the heating element itself might be the source of the problem.
The heating element
- The electric element is made out of a copper tube that has been twisted to form an extended coil.
- There is a thick copper wire that runs down the center of this tube and is completely encircled by insulating material.
- When those hyperactive tiny electrons hurtle down the copper wire, they heat it up, and the heat is transmitted through the insulation and the copper tube, and then into the water to cool it down again.
- The insulating material is critical because it stops the copper wire from coming into contact with the copper tube and keeps those nasty little electrons contained within the wire.
- The copper tubing of the heater may corrode over time as it matures.
- If a hole corrodes through the tube, water will be able to enter and rapidly locate a fracture in the insulation, allowing it to come into touch with the copper wire carrying the electricity.
- Because we all know that water transmits electricity, we have discovered that the tank full of water is now live, as is the steel tank of the heater, as well as everything metal that is immediately linked to the tank full of water.
- Someone is taking a shower around 5 yards away.
- Because water conducts electricity, the water in the shower, as well as the metal shower fittings, will be electrified.
- When you turn on the faucet, the water that comes out is ″living.″ Once the water breaks up into drops, the electricity flow is interrupted; however, if there is a continuous stream of water onto a person’s body, the body can receive an electric shock or even be electrocuted as the electric current flows through the body on its inevitable ecstatic journey to the surface of the planet..
Of certainly, anything like this should not happen.Assuming that the water heater and electrical circuits are properly constructed, there should be a reliable connection between the water heater tank and the earth.Ideally, electricity should be able to travel directly to the ground if the water or tank becomes ″live.″ This flow of electricity should cause the circuit breaker to trip and the power to be turned off.As previously stated, it is not the voltage but rather the current (i.e.the flow of electricity) that may cause death, and it does not take much to do so.You may not even notice a very little current of less than 1 mA if it is there (a thousandth of an ampere).
It is possible to tense your muscles with as little as 10 mA (a tenth of an ampere) of electricity flowing through them, making it hard to let go of whatever it is you are holding onto.The amount of power necessary to stop your heart is only 30 milliamps (mA), which is a fraction of the 270 milliamps (mA) of electricity required to light a 60 watt lightbulb.The path that electricity goes through your body will influence whether or not you receive an electric shock or whether or not you are subjected to a ″ongoing unfavorable survival circumstance″ (electrocution – electrical execution).It should be mentioned that more than one or two people have been murdered when they opted to empty their bladders in unlucky areas and an electrical current flowed up a continuous stream of fluids to their entertainment organs, causing them to lose their ability to gruntle as a result.Electrical installations are intended to anticipate the possibility of something like this occurring and to protect you from danger by shutting down automatically.The passage of current to earth will be detected by an electrical system that has been properly built and installed, and the circuit breaker will trip.
This is something you should absolutely not do yourself; instead, get an electrician to complete the task.However, there is a simple test we can perform to determine whether or not your electrical system will give any protection at all.For this, we connect the live wire (after the circuit breaker) to the ground and observe whether or not the contact breaker trips (switches itself off).
PLN circuit breakers frequently trip before the individual circuit breakers, which is an unfortunate occurrence.This should not have happened, and it indicates that your circuits are not secure.Contact breakers must have sufficient current flowing through them in order to work and shut themselves off.
- Upon closer inspection, you will see on the front of a circuit breaker a number that shows the maximum current that the breaker is capable of handling.
- If you go above this limit, the breaker will automatically shut off.
- For light circuits, it is usual practice in Indonesia to utilize 4 or 6 amp circuit breakers, and 10 amp circuit breakers for electrical plug sockets.
- There are four main reasons why circuit breakers fail to function properly:
- The system is not properly grounded, which is a very common problem.
- Similarly, an over-sized circuit breaker is another prevalent issue.
- Installation that was not done correctly
- The circuit breaker is not working properly
- It is best to add earth leakage circuit breakers for your own safety, and regardless of what your electrician tells you, you should have one on each of the power circuits.
- Electrical short circuits are one of the most common causes of structure fires.
- In general, the quality of electrical installation, even in the most costly homes, is subpar, even in the most expensive homes.
- An electric shock from anything as simple as a washing machine or computer case has become something we take for granted.
- All well and good, but it informs you that the circuits will not protect you if you have a big problem, such as an aging electric water heater, in the future.
- Consider this food for thought.
- Phil Wilson has the copyright for this piece, which was published in January 2014.
- This article, or any part of it, may not be duplicated or reproduced without the express consent of the author or owner of the copyright.
Gas water heater ground
- 250.104A We have been enforcing this policy for many years.
- Often, there is no continuity between the cold and hot water pipes, which means that the system is not linked in this situation.
- This has been enforced by others as well as myself for many years.
- It’s just simple sense, really.
- If there is no continuity between the hot and cold piping as a result of the kind of water heater installed, particularly if there is no mixing valve, then a jumper between the hot and cold piping must be built in order to join the metal water piping system.
- On this one, I believe you will find yourself completely out of your comfort zone.
- With my years of experience as an inspector and member of the IAEI and NFPA as well as my access to the code revision panel members who are accountable for changes in code, I have been able to confirm the purpose of issues such as this.
- Sometimes you just have to acknowledge when you’re wrong and eat a slice of humble pie to make up for your mistakes.
- Each and every day, I learn something new and am reminded that I am not always accurate.
- The more I study, the more I realize how much I still don’t know about almost anything.
This issue has been fixed for many years, and it is something that we are all completely aware of as a result.You are now aware of it and have the opportunity to learn from it.Take a bite out of the humble pie.I’ve already consumed some of it and want to consume more in the near future.Just not on this particular subject.
Can a hot water heater sit on the ground?
- Asked in the following category: General The most recent update was on May 21st, 2020.
- It is true that a gas water heater cannot be put on the floor or on the ground.
- Because the pilot flame of a gas water heater on the ground is so near to the floor, it is conceivable for an explosion to occur.
- It is not recommended that water heaters be built directly on the ″soil,″ but they can (and should) be installed at floor level without the risk of ″exploding.
- ″ The Uniform Plumbing Code, which defines standards across the country, specifies that the flame or sparking mechanism in a gas water heater must be at least 18 inches above the ground while operating.
- Essentially, this implies that an exact measurement for correct installation is not determined by the distance between the bottom of the water heater and the floor.
- Is it necessary to raise electric hot water heaters to a higher level?
- Water heaters are only required to be elevated (in accordance with regulation) if they are powered by an ignitable fuel source (gas, propane, etc).
- Even in such case, the code indicates that the ignition mechanism is the one that has to be activated.
- If your water heater is electric or a heat pump, there is no need to adjust the temperature as required by regulations.
Also, what is the best location for my hot water heater?Placement in a broader sense As a result, the majority of hot water heaters are located in garages or basements.You’ll want to locate your water heater near an exterior wall to allow for the flue to go through the unit.Choosing a location where the water heater is close to the taps that will be used for hot water is another important consideration.Is it necessary to have a drain pan for your water heater?Installing a drip pan with a drain line beneath your hot water heater tank is normally recommended, and in certain cases, mandated.
A leak, especially if your water heater is located in your house or basement, might result in extensive water damage.This risk is eliminated by using a pan and drain.
How High Off the Ground Should a Gas Water Heater Be Installed?
- Have you ever walked into someone’s garage and observed that their water heater was elevated much above the floor?
- It may appear unusual, but it is simply a safety measure that has been implemented.
- In addition, if you decide to place a new tank water heater in your house (which we do not normally advocate), you should be aware of the rules that govern ground clearance requirements for such installations.
Height requirement for water heater installed in a garage
- Natural gas tank water heaters are required to be erected at a minimum of 18 inches above the ground, according to the Uniform Plumbing Code.
- The fact that this measurement does not necessarily begin at the bottom of the unit is also vital to remember.
- Instead, there must be 18 inches of space between the pilot light or lighting system and the rest of the structure.
- The simplest method to accomplish this is to purchase a water heater stand, which should be robust enough to support the tank while it is fully filled with water.
- Why is it necessary for the water heater to be elevated 18 inches above the ground?
- It is not for the purpose of avoiding being hit by a garage or other objects, as some people may believe.
- In the event that a combustible substance (such as gasoline or motor oil) spills on the garage floor, the clearance is intended to avoid a fire or explosion.
- Depending on whether you install an electric water heater or a gas water heater with a sealed combustion chamber, this requirement may or may not be applicable to you.
- Although the Uniform Plumbing Code is the national standard, it is equally vital to adhere to all applicable state and local standards and regulations.
What about indoor water heaters?
- According to national rules, gas tank water heaters placed inside do not need to be elevated above the ground by more than 18 inches from the ground.
- Again, make certain you adhere to all applicable rules, including state and municipal regulations, as well as the manufacturer’s installation guidelines.
- While it is still a good idea to lift an indoor water heater off the ground in case a flood occurs in the area where it is being installed (especially in a basement).
- In addition, you should install a drip tray under the unit to capture any water that leaks out of the tank, including water from the pressure release valve, and drain it.
Have a plumber install your water heater
- Ground clearance of 18 inches is only one of several critical requirements and best practices for water heater installation that must be followed. For many homeowners, these rules might be confusing and difficult to comprehend in their entirety. When the water heater is installed incorrectly, it might malfunction or create a hazard such as a fire, among other things. As a result, it is preferable to leave water heater installation to trained and experienced specialists. If you’re looking for the best gas water heater installation in the Amarillo, TX region, look no further than the professionals at Pratt Plumbing. To make an appointment, please contact us at (806) 373-7866 right away. Contractor2020 published a new article on June 29, 2021 in the category Water Heaters.
Should You Have Bonding Wire on Your Water Heater?
- Water heaters aren’t something that most people worry about very frequently, as long as they provide hot water for showers and washing machines.
- When you study about the operation of a water heater, you will discover that it contains a lot of components that are pretty intriguing.
- A bonding wire is one of the plumbing components that sparks a lot of debate between professionals.
- In this post, we’ll go over the benefits of using a bonding wire and whether or not you should consider installing one on your water heater.
What is a bonding wire?
- A bonding wire is an external component that connects the water heater to the rest of the system.
- In most cases, it is made up of two brass clamps with a thick copper wire stretched between them.
- The cold water pipe is clamped with one clamp, while the hot water pipe is clamped with the other clamp.
- However, while a bonding wire is not necessarily needed by code, the item is about $10 and quite simple to install, so it is not a significant financial commitment to include one in your water heater.
Benefits of a bonding wire
Some plumbers encourage connecting wires, while others do not. This makes the bonding wire a distinctive component. When in use, the bonding wire can be used for two different things:
- Reduce the rate of corrosion in the water heater.
- The bonding wire can redirect a small electrical current that passes through the copper piping to the steel fittings of the water heater.
- This process is thought to prevent electrolysis and corrosion, which can extend the service life of the water heater and prevent leaking.
- However, if you have PEX or other non-copper pipes, you don’t have to worry about this issue.
- Complete the electrical grounding by connecting the remaining wires.
- Metal pipes must be grounded as a part of your plumbing system as a whole, and this is commonly accomplished through the cold water input line.
- The location of the water heater might result in a break between the cold and hot water pipes depending on the model.
- In this case, the bonding wire may be used to join the two lines and complete the grounding operation, which can help to improve the overall electrical safety of the home.
Is a bonding wire required?
- Depending on where you reside, you may or may not be required to install a bonding wire on your water heater.
- The National Electric Code does not mandate the use of a bonding wire, while certain municipal building regulations do demand the use of this component.
- When copper pipe fittings are connected to a water heater, some electricians and building inspectors across the country recommend that a bonding cable be used, which is supported by research.
- As long as you do not have a requirement for bonding wires in your location, the decision to install one on your water heater is purely a question of personal taste.
- Additionally, there are no substantial drawbacks to using the wire, and it has the ability to lessen the danger of corrosion while also ensuring that your metal pipes are well grounded.
More water heater questions?
- Reach out to the experts at Pratt Plumbing if you have any additional questions regarding how your water heater works or if you need any repairs done to your present unit. With more than 55 years of expertise in the Amarillo region, you can be certain that you’re receiving the greatest service available in the area. Make a call to us at (806) 373-7866 right away. Contractor2020 published a new article on October 10, 2019 in the category Water Heaters.
r/HomeImprovement – Water Heater Not Grounded (xpost fixit)
- The time had come for me to upgrade my water heater to a newer, more energy-efficient type.
- As soon as I started working on the electrical portion, I discovered that the old water heater had never been grounded before.
- The cables going to it are properly protected by a circuit breaker, but the wire itself is ancient and only has two leads, with no ground wire attached.
- What is the hazard here, and how/why would it be detrimental for me to just install the new water heater with the existing cables and no ground be detrimental?
- Thank you for your assistance.
- This discussion has been closed.
- No new comments or votes may be submitted, and no new votes can be cast.
- 1st grade It is not dangerous to have an ungrounded water heater circuit; however, if the water heater is connected to metal water pipes or fixtures, there exists the possibility that if a wire or element breaks or comes into contact with the tank, it will energize the entire plumbing system and fixtures as long as there is a conductive path between the tank and the water heater.
- If this occurs, anyone who comes into contact with anything on the electrified plumbing system and offers a conduit for the current to pass will be at risk of receiving an electric shock.
- Although it is not necessary to update immediately, it is a good idea to do so whenever feasible.
level 2After doing additional research, I’ve discovered that I’ll need to obtain a permission from my local code enforcement office in order to install this.This implies that the technician will come out and examine the installation to ensure that everything is in working order.Also, I believe I failed to mention that I was going to try to plumb it with pex in order to save money.1st grade As m 80 pointed out, the earth is there to provide protection rather than to perform a purpose.If the heater has been certified (by UL or another organization), there is no connection allowed between live parts (neutral / live wires) and protective ground.The ground wire is simply included to safeguard the end user in the event that something goes down the sink.
According to what I discovered, I did require permits for the water heater and an additional permit for the electricity.I obtained both permits and installed new wiring that included a ground.Then I went ahead and installed the water heater.It turned out that I needed to use copper for the first 18 inches of pipe leading away from the water heater (code where I live.) This morning, I just wrapped off my job, and the inspector will be coming in the morning to take a look around.It took me the better part of the day.Some leaks have occurred along the route, and sweating the pipe is a time-consuming process.
It was necessary to make a number of journeys to the hardware shop.Nothing in life is ever simple, is it?In any case, thank you everyone for your assistance.
The location of level 1 depends on how near it is to the water main.If it is close enough, there isn’t anything to be concerned about because it would serve as a solid foundation.is it feasible to rewire using 10/2 w/ ground wire at the first level?
- (Assuming the circuit is protected by a 30A breaker) Alternately, you may want to consider replacing your existing circuit breaker with a GFCI one.
- Despite the fact that this is most likely not up to code, it would lessen the danger of electrical shock.
- The following is a feasible option, but I must first consult with my local code official to see whether or not I am permitted to perform electrical work on my own without violating the law.
- Ideally, I’d like to just run a new piece of wire that is connected to a ground.
- Is it in a metal conduit at the first level?
- It’s possible that this is supplying ground.
- level 2Unfortunately, this is not the case.
- Simply a non-metallic encased 2 lead 10 gauge wire that has been ran across the rafters throughout the years.
Protective Bonding Electrical Safety
What is protective bonding?
By connecting metal services to the electrical earthing system, it safeguards your electrics and ensures that you do not receive electric shocks from them.
Why do I need protective bonding?
- Metal water and gas pipes entering your home – these are generally found in older homes – you should replace them immediately.
- Despite the fact that protective bonding is a very necessary component of any electrical installation, it is sometimes disregarded by those who are not competent to perform electrical work on their own.
- You will not be charged for protective bonding if you have a new fuse box (consumer unit) installed by British Gas and we discover that you do not have protective bonding.
- It’s possible that you have an advisory notice on your gas meter or boiler stating that you require protective bonding to be installed.
Do I need protective bonding every time I install a new fuse box (customer unit)?
No. If you currently have protective bonding in place, there is no need for us to install additional protective bonding. Although it is not always necessary, if you require protective bonding when installing a new fuse box (consumer unit), it is usually included in the first price. This service will be charged as a separate service if it was not identified during the first estimate.
How much does protective bonding cost and what’s included?
- This will be determined by the distance between your gas, water, and electricity meters.
- We’ll give you a fixed pricing, and we have a variety of payment options available, including instalments.
- You may request a free quotation online by visiting this page.
- A trained British Gas expert will visit to your home and complete the work, providing you with a certificate to prove that it was completed.
- In addition, you’ll receive a 12-month warranty.
Will you need to take up my floorboards?
Despite our best efforts, we may need to examine under your floorboards on occasion, which can cause some inconvenience. Never fear, we’ll always ask for your permission before doing anything.
How do I tell if my home already has the correct protective bonding?
Unfortunately, it is difficult for the typical individual to determine whether or not their house is protected by bonding. It is recommended that you hire a trained electrical expert to complete this task for you. Our engineers will determine whether or not you have protective bonding, as well as whether or not it is the proper size and properly attached.
How long will protective bonding installation take?
It is dependent on the location of your entering gas and water service lines. In addition to your fuse box (consumer unit). It might take anything from an hour to four hours to complete the task.
Moving home or a landlord?
When it comes to being a landlord, we recommend that you get your electrical systems evaluated at least once every five years. We can perform an Electrical Installation Condition Report on your new house if you want to make sure everything is working properly (EICR). It entails inspecting your protective bonds as well.
How do I get protective bonding?
Request a quotation from us and schedule a visit from one of our engineers. They’ll come out and look at your electrical system and provide you with a price. If you agree with our quotation, please contact us to schedule an appointment for your protective bonding procedure.
How to Test a Water Heater Element With a Multimeter
- An electric water heater heats the water in the tank by utilizing one or two heating elements, depending on the model.
- It is possible that the upper element on a two element water heater is to blame for a water heater no longer producing hot water.
- If your water heater generates some hot water, but not nearly as much as it should, the bottom element is most likely to be the problem.
- If your water heater’s circuit breaker keeps tripping, it’s possible that the element has grounded and is causing an electrical short.
- Make use of a multimeter to verify whether or not your elements have been harmed.
To turn off the water heater’s electricity, locate the breaker located within the main electric panel of your home. The majority of electric water heaters make use of a double-pole circuit breaker rated at 30 amps.
On the side of the water heater, look for panels that have been screwed to the wall. A single or two panels will be installed on the water heater, depending on the size of the unit. To detach the panels, unscrew the screws that hold them in place.
Discard the insulation that was exposed when the side panels were taken off. Depending on the age of the water heater, fiberglass or closed-cell extruded polystyrene foam may be used as insulation for the water heater. When removing fiberglass insulation, protect your eyes and hands with safety goggles and gloves.
Remove the plastic safety cover off the element’s face with your fingers. The element and thermostat are both protected by this cover, which clicks on and off.
Placing a noncontact voltage detector near the wires attached to the element face, as well as adjacent to each wire linked to the thermostat, will provide the best results. If there is still power present in the water heater, the voltage detector sounds an audible alert and the light on its front panel flashes rapidly.
Disengage the two element screws by turning them counter-clockwise. Remove the wires from behind the screws by pulling them out. Write down the wattage of the element, which may be found written on one side of the element’s face.
- Set the Rx1k dial on a multimeter to the desired reading (resistance times 1,000 ohms).
- One of the multimeter probes should be in contact with one of the screws on the front of the element; the remaining probe should be in contact with the remaining screw.
- In order to be considered for a 3,500-watt element, the resistance should be between 12 and 13 ohms, and in order to be considered for a 5,500-watt element, the resistance should be between 10 and 11 ohms.
- If the element does not register on the multimeter, it should be replaced.
One of the probes should be in contact with one of the screws on the element face. Touch the other probe to any metal portion of the water heater. If the needle on the multimeter moves, this indicates that the heater element is grounded and that it must be replaced. Test both screws on the element’s surface to ensure that they are both in good working order.
One of the multimeter probes should be used to check each screw. Set aside the leftover probe against the metal base that is attached to the element where it is introduced into the water heater. If the needle on the face of the multimeter moves, this indicates that the element is faulty and must be changed.
Reattach the wires to the rear of the water heater element. Replace the water heater element. Replace the plastic cover over the thermostat and the element with a snap. Reinstall the insulation and attach the panels to the side of the water tank to complete the process of insulating the tank. Turn on the water heater by turning on the circuit breaker.
Things You Will Need
- Screwdriver, safety goggles, gloves, and a noncontact voltage detector are all required.
Properly Grounded Gas Supply Lines
- When properly installed and maintained, the natural gas or propane supply lines that power your home heating system are perfectly safe.
- However, if they are not properly installed and maintained, they have the potential to cause harm to your house.
- Following a recent request such as ″…I have CSST that I suspect is not grounded and would want an estimate for grounding it…″, we decided to publish this blog post to clarify correct grounding for CSST and other gas supply lines to the public.
What is CSST?
- CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) is a flexible stainless steel pipe that is generally yellow or black in color.
- It is utilized in buildings for gas supply lines and may be found in many different shapes and sizes.
- In order to accommodate its ability to be bent, it is typically routed along or around floor/ceiling joists or through wall cavities.
- Because of its adaptability, it is less expensive to deploy and more secure.
- CSST has fewer leakage than other technologies because of its lengthy runs and limited number of connections.
- It also provides an additional layer of protection in the event of an earthquake, which can create fires by shaking or breaking gas line connections.
- CSST is distinct from the short, flexible gas line connections that are used to connect a gas range or other appliance to a wall outlet or other location.
- These short sections of tubing do not need to be joined and grounded separately from the rest of the system.
CSST Gas Lines Must Be Grounded
- CSST was first installed in the United States in 1990 and has since been put in millions of buildings worldwide.
- CSST has been needed to be bonded and grounded for safety in the United States since 2009, while this was not necessary during the first 18 years of operation.
- If you have CSST in your house and gas supply line work has been done there since 1990, you should make certain that it is safe before you move in.
- Consult with a certified electrician who will guarantee that it is correctly bonded and grounded before using the equipment.
- Because a nearby lightning strike might cause the systems in your structure to become electrically charged, this safety step is being taken to ensure your safety.
- It is possible that such a power surge will puncture a hole in the CSST and start a fire.
- The bonding procedure consists in putting a metal clamp on the metal end of the CSSR and attaching it firmly to the central grounding system for the building with an adequate grounding wire (no smaller than 6 AWG).
- This establishes a permanent, direct connection that serves as a conduit for the discharge of electrical energy from the gas supply line, which is otherwise unavailable.
Need Help Grounding a Gas Line?
- Frye Electric can take care of this for you and provide you piece of mind in the process.
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Earth bonding Gas and Water
|28 June 2017 09:47 AM|
|Matt01 Posts: 230 Joined: 25 July 2008||Can someone tell me if the gas and water are at the opposite end of a building to the main earth bar can you pull in 1 large CPC to do both items? If this was carried out so the cable was lugged in an in/out manor on the first bond so if one of the connections was disconnected it would not disrupt the other would this be acceptable or do you need to pull in separate CPC’s for each bond?|
|28 June 2017 10:23 AM|
|AJJewsbury Posts: 17795 Joined: 13 August 2003||Not c.p.c. – that’s a circuit protective conductor – these are protective bonding conductors (and don’t relate to any particular circuit). But yes, you can run a single bonding conductor around as many extraneous-conductive-parts as you like. BS 7671 doesn’t have any further requirements about that, but the code of practice for earthing (BS 7430) recommends that where the conductor is looped from one to another it’s left unbroken at intermediate points so that if other trades have to remove the clamp to work on the pipework the connection to other parts isn’t broken. The classic way of doing that was just to keep the bonding conductor uncut, slice off a section of insulation and wrap it around the clamp’s connection screw. Two lugs (one on each cable) wouldn’t quite have the right effect. One lug with two conductors in it would be better – if you can find a suitable lug that takes 20mm2 (or whatever twice your bonding conductor is). Alternatively just mound an extra earth block nearby, loop the bonding conductor into that and then just a single conductor to the clamp. – Andy.|
|28 June 2017 11:34 AM|
|daveparry1 Posts: 8020 Joined: 04 July 2007||As Andy said.|
|28 June 2017 12:12 PM|
|Matt01 Posts: 230 Joined: 25 July 2008||Thanks Andy, yeah sorry not CPC i do mean a bonding conductor|
|28 June 2017 12:20 PM|
|OMS Posts: 22864 Joined: 23 March 2004||Take one equipotential bonding conductor from the MET and drop that to a small earth bar (say 4 way) near the gas and water intake – and then bond each service from that – call it say an EMB or Earth Marshalling Bar Regards OMS – Let the wind blow you, across a big floor.|
|28 June 2017 03:22 PM|
|leckie Posts: 4705 Joined: 21 November 2008||If it’s a building with structural steel, you can probably bond up to the steel, then take a bonding conductor off the steel at the other end of the building to bond an extraneous part. The ECA call this the preferred method in one of there BS7671 guides.|
|28 June 2017 05:41 PM|
|geoffsd Posts: 2342 Joined: 15 June 2010||Depending on the route of the pipes, it would be permissible to bond the water pipe (at point of entry) as normal and then connect the gas pipe (at point of entry) to the water pipe at a convenient location; i.e. to use the water pipe as the bonding conductor for the gas. The other way round is not allowed. If they are both in the same place then, obviously, this is of no advantage.|
|28 June 2017 05:46 PM|
|Zoomup Posts: 6117 Joined: 20 February 2014||I do not do a lot of work in bigger buildings these days. But I seem to remember that there were restrictions to the drilling of structural steel work. This is to do with reducing the strength of the supporting steel work if you drill a hole into it. Clamp on type connectors are very good when bonding onto structural steel after removing paint/rust first so getting back to clean metal. I know that small holes may not make much difference but several holes or large holes can weaken a steel beam etc. Perhaps somebody can guide us to the relevant engineering regulations. Z.|
|28 June 2017 05:48 PM|
|Fm Posts: 2032 Joined: 24 August 2011||Weld a boss onto the steel- no need to drill|
|28 June 2017 07:42 PM|
|OMS Posts: 22864 Joined: 23 March 2004||Originally posted by: Fm Weld a boss onto the steel- no need to drill +1 for me Drilling holes is not a sensible idea on steelwork – the structural engineers don’t like it – a welded boss is the ″proper″ way to do this Regards OMS – Let the wind blow you, across a big floor.|
|28 June 2017 11:23 PM|
|mapj1 Posts: 12039 Joined: 22 July 2004||Still needs to be on a lightly loaded part however, as depending who does the welding,and how big the weld nut is, there is scope to introduce all sorts of lop-sided stress when welding an I beam or whatever that is already under load – to get decent weld penentration, the area nearest the weldwillhave been heated significantly, and in part annealed, and in part hardened. Welding is however very positive in terms of the quality of contact and far less rsik of working loose or getting oxide in the interface, so is certainly preffferred to hole, bolts, or clamps, but do check the drawings with someone who understands them before firing up the torch willy-nilly – regards Mike|
|28 June 2017 11:34 PM|
|OMS Posts: 22864 Joined: 23 March 2004||All in the planning – get it welded on before the steel comes to site – and before the fire retardant is applied Avoids all the unpleasantness arising from hot works on site I think the last lot of M10 bosses I saw were spun on as friction welds- I’ll check tomorrow OMS – Let the wind blow you, across a big floor.|
|29 June 2017 06:45 AM|
|ebee Posts: 6735 Joined: 02 December 2004||tell you what I`ve seen done. 10mm earth bared, the 3 strand and the 4 strand seperated then the 4 doubled in one crimped eyelet and the 3 doubled in the other crimped eyelet. Both eyelets then connected to the first clamp then cable goes to the next clamp. Strictly sizewise in the tube its 4+4 and 3+3 giving 8/7 and 6/7 in the tubes but they seemed crimped fit ok. – Regards, Ebee (M I S P N)Knotted cables cause Lumpy Lektrik|
|29 June 2017 02:05 PM|
|leckie Posts: 4705 Joined: 21 November 2008||Furse make various clamps, probably what Zoom meant. Would a Hilti 6mm stud fired into steel work be OK? It leaves a 6mm stud thread to screw nuts on to. It is effectively is welded in – you cant get them back out if you bang them in with a black cap! Mind you I have one and it scares me to death!|
|29 June 2017 02:05 PM|
|leckie Posts: 4705 Joined: 21 November 2008||Furse make various clamps, probably what Zoom meant. Would a Hilti 6mm stud fired into steel work be OK? It leaves a 6mm stud thread to screw nuts on to. It is effectively is welded in – you cant get them back out if you bang them in with a black cap! Mind you I have one and it scares me to death!|
|29 June 2017 02:48 PM|
|Zoomup Posts: 6117 Joined: 20 February 2014||Originally posted by: leckie Furse make various clamps, probably what Zoom meant. Would a Hilti 6mm stud fired into steel work be OK? It leaves a 6mm stud thread to screw nuts on to. It is effectively is welded in – you cant get them back out if you bang them in with a black cap! Mind you I have one and it scares me to death! That’s it Leckie, thanks, a Furse CS 350 is one example. Bye, Z.|
Main and supplementary bonding/ earthing to gas and water supplies
- You may read what some of our customers had to say about our work on Bonding by clicking here and here.
- Bonding on a fundamental level (Earthing) In the case of water, gas, and oil services, main bonding is defined as the use of a thick (10mm) green and yellow copper wire to link them to the Earth Terminal, which is located in or near to your consumer unit.
- It is customary for connections to be made on metal pipes close to the point at which they enter your property, i.e.
- The Main Bonding for the water is often done within 600mm of your Water Stop Tap.
- The purpose of main bonding is to safeguard you.
- When there is a fault current (amps), or if it is easier to grasp in volts, think of it in that way instead, it will always seek a path downward, literally to the ground.
- In order for the current to flow, it must take the shortest path possible to ground; the purpose of Main (and Supplementary) Bonding is to provide an alternate path for the current to flow that is less difficult than the path taken by the current through one of your heating pipes, along your arm, through your body, down your legs, onto the wet kitchen floor, and to ground.
- With thick copper wire, you’re creating a channel that’s more appealing to any fault currents.
- As the current travels down to ground, it will deflect any fault currents away from your body or other locations where it shouldn’t be.
- The installation of Main Bonding is mandatory in all instances as long as the water, gas, or oil pipes entering your property are made of metal.
This is true even if the remainder of the pipes in your home are made of plastic.Supplemental Bonding is a term used to describe a type of bonding that is not required by law.Additional bonding is the use of a slightly thinner (4mm) green and yellow copper cable to link all metal pipes (and potential circuits) in a certain region.The bathroom, or any other room with a bath or shower, is often designated as this location.With regard to Supplementary Bonding, the 17th Edition Regulations are slightly less stringent than the 16th Edition Regulations.It is possible that no supplemental bonding is necessary in the bathroom, for example, if all of the pipes are made of plastic.
Another possibility is that no supplemental bonding is necessary in other cases as well, but because the regulations and calculations involved would be difficult to explain into layman’s terms, only an electrician would be qualified to make that determination.There are a variety of other situations in which you may encounter or require Supplementary Bonding.It is necessary to link all metallic pipes in the vicinity of the central heating boiler, combi boiler, and immersion heaters with a green and yellow cable in order to ensure proper operation.Kitchen.Supplementary Bonding is built in the kitchen less commonly these days, i.e.connecting the kitchen sink with the hot and cold water pipes, as a result of the easing of the 17th Edition’s requirements for Supplementary Bonding.
Having said that, it’s always better to be safe than sorry, so if your electrician recommends that bonding be performed in your kitchen (particularly in commercial and industrial settings), don’t immediately dismiss his or her recommendation.Count on us to hire dependable personnel who are well-versed in dealing with all types of electrical problems.AA Electrical Services is a prominent installation, repair, and maintenance service company that serves the South East region of the United Kingdom..
Our team of electricians can do routine maintenance on your electrical system and appliances, as well as offer you with a quick and dependable breakdown service when the need arises.We use electrical engineers who are NICEIC registered, Part P accredited, and qualified to the 17th edition standard, as verified by the Institute of Electrical Engineers.Our electrical engineers adhere to current British standards and are certified by the NICEIC (IEE).
- We are able to provide you with the highest standards of professional service as a result of this.
Gas water heater bonding
- Please see below the complete text of the code portion that was in concern.
- Pipe ties and exposed structural steel are bonded together in accordance with ANSI 250.104.
- (A) Water Piping Made of Metal.
- The metal water pipe system must be bonded in accordance with subsections (A)(1), (A)(2), and (A)(3) of this section.
- In accordance with 250.64(A), (B), and (C), the bonding jumper(s) should be fitted in accordance with the following: (E).
- There must be easy access to the places of connection of the bonding jumper or jumpers.
- (1) A general statement.
- When installing or attaching metal water piping systems to a building or structure, they must be bonded to the enclosure of the service equipment, to the grounded conductor at the service, to the grounding electrode conductor if it is of sufficient size, and/or to the one or more grounding electrodes used.
- Except as provided in 250.104(A)(2) and (A)(3), the bonding jumper(s) should be sized in accordance with Table 250.66.
- Some will attempt to refer to the hot water system as one system and the cold water system as another system; thus, what does the plumbing code state about the water system?
To begin, what exactly is the name of the water that is utilized from a water heater?501.2 The use of a water heater as a space heater It is necessary to install a master thermostatic mixing valve in accordance with ASSE 1017 when a combination potable water heating and space heating system requires water for space heating at temperatures higher than 140°F (60°C).This valve limits the temperature of water supplied to the potable hot water distribution system to less than 140°F (60°C).The potability of the water must be maintained throughout the whole system’s distribution system.Was that potable hot water, or just hot water?So, please, tell me what sort of water I should use to take a bath.
Now, keep in mind that I take showers in both hot and cold temperatures.What about the sink in my kitchen?602.2 It is necessary to have access to potable water.Potable water must be delivered to plumbing fixtures that offer water for drinking, bathing, cooking, or the production of food, medical, or pharmaceutical items.Nonpotable water must not be given to plumbing fixtures.Until otherwise specified in this regulation, potable water must be supplied to all plumbing fixtures unless otherwise specified.
Regardless of whether or not we use hot water to flush our toilets, I proclaim that the water systems in our houses that we use to flush our toilets are drinkable.What part of 250.104(A)(1) specifies that a bonding jumper must be fitted between the hot and cold pipes is not immediately clear.The answer is no, but what the code does specify is that if one chooses to bond the cold first and then the hot, the bondingjumper may only land in one of four places: 1) to the service equipment enclosure, 2) to the grounded conductor at the service, 3) to the grounding electrode conductor if it is of sufficient size, or 4) to any of the one or more grounding electrodes that were used.
Arrive in my jurisdiction and attempt something that is not in compliance with the code, such as what is being discussed in this thread, and I assure you that you will make some adjustments based on the code parts I have supplied.
Bonding gas pipe at hot water tank
- That is correct, I realize that the gas line cannot serve as a grounding electrode.
- It is possible to utilize the equipment grounding wire for the circuit supplying power to the blower as a bonding method for this hot water tank since it is a power vented type, which means it makes use of an electric blower to help in the ventilation of combustion gases.
- I’m curious as to if there is any continuity between the two currently.
- I’ll look at it.
- I did come across this answer as well: Is it legal to ground a gas pipeline?
- The use of an underground metal gas pipe system as a grounding electrode is expressly prohibited.
- So, what exactly is the source of all this consternation?
- The debate over bonding and grounding metal gas piping systems developed when many electrical experts questioned the norms and regulations of the National Fuel Gas Code (NFPA 54), which governs the installation of metal gas piping systems.
- NFPA 54, for example, mandates that each aboveground section of a gas pipe system upstream from the equipment shutdown valve be electrically continuous and bonded to any grounding electrodes that may be present.
- In accordance with this regulation, Section 250-104(b) of the National Electrical Code (NEC) is in effect.
On the other hand, NFPA 54 is in conflict with Section 250-52(a) of the National Electrical Code, which states: ″You may not use an underground metal gas pipe system as a grounding electrode.″ It’s no surprise that so many individuals feel uncertain.To further understand the stance of both Codes, let’s take a deeper look at their respective regulations.Metal gas pipe is governed by the National Electric Code.Section 250-104(b) of the United States Code and NFPA 54.The National Electrical Code (NEC) Section 250-104(b) and the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 54) Section 3.14(a) both require you to bond the aboveground component of a metal gas pipe system to a grounding electrode system for safety reasons.In accordance with Section 3.15 of NFPA 54, it is not permissible to utilize the aboveground sections of a metal gas pipe system or its components as a conductor in electrical circuits.
The National Fire Protection Association’s (NFPA 54) Section 3.15, Ex., does recognize under certain conditions, which applies when you are using low-voltage (50V or less) circuits, ignition circuits, and electronic flame detection device circuits as piping or components of an electric circuit, according to the code The bonding jumper connecting and bonding the metal gas pipe to the grounding electrode system should be sized in accordance with Table 250-66 of the NEC, based on the biggest ungrounded service phase conductor, and should be sized in accordance with the NEC.You should size the conductor in the same way that you would size a metal water pipe that is insulated from the earth ground due to the presence of a nonmetallic subsurface water distribution system.Some, on the other hand, are not convinced.You should size it from Table 250-122, according to the size of the overcurrent protection device that is located ahead of the circuit, according to their opinion.With this concept and technique of sizing, the only issue we have is determining which protective device should be used: the service device, the feeder device, or the branch-circuit protection device.Because of this ambiguity, we believe that a proposal for the 2002 National Electrical Code (NEC) is required to clarify which Table should be used for sizing this conductor.
It may be necessary to consult with the AHJ for their official interpretation, depending on where you are employed.
Ground wire from cold to hot water lines then to gas line
- Is it appropriate to connect a ground to a gas line? For a friend who recently purchased an existing home in Carlsbad, CA, I was requested to give him my opinion on a ground wire, possibly of size 8, that begins at the cold line above the water heater, connects to a clamp on the hot water feed line to the house, then descends into a natural gas line to connect to his Water Heater’s natural gas connection. I informed him that I didn’t think it was a proper ground connection and that I believed it was unsafe. Is it necessary for me to inform him that I was mistaken? Thank you so much for your assistance. Loren Sr. is the father of Loren Jr. Threads that are similar to this one: Copper lines for cold water Expansion tanks on cold water lines
- high side line cold
- main ground only to water line?
- ground wire
Re: Ground wire from cold to hot water lines then to gas line
What you are referring to as a ground wire is really referred to as a bond. Metallic pipe systems are required to be bonded in order to function properly. Even with a 100 amp service, A8 would be considered too tiny. It would have to be at least a6 in order to be considered. All of the answers are based on the most recent version of the National Electrical Code.
Re: Ground wire from cold to hot water lines then to gas line
- The original post was written by Loren Sanders Sr.
- Is it appropriate to connect a ground to a gas line?
- For a friend who recently purchased an existing home in Carlsbad, CA, I was requested to give him my opinion on a ground wire, possibly of size 8, that begins at the cold line above the water heater, connects to a clamp on the hot water feed line to the house, then descends into a natural gas line to connect to his Water Heater’s natural gas connection.
- I informed him that I didn’t think it was a proper ground connection and that I believed it was unsafe.
- Is it necessary for me to inform him that I was mistaken?
- Thank you so much for your assistance.
- Loren Sr.
- is the father of Loren Jr.
- That would be a form of bonding.
- Metal piping (cold, hot, and gas) must be linked to the grounding electrode in order to function properly.
You should be able to locate it if you look through the electrical archives.
Re: Ground wire from cold to hot water lines then to gas line
- Hi, The link takes you to the residential service rules for the city of Oceanside.
- They make it possible for a copper bonding conductor to be used to connect the gas pipe.
- Building inspectors in Northern California have been approving the technique you described for service improvements, but not for new buildings, according to the local press.
- If the cold water pipe has previously been linked, they reason that a jumper to the hot water side and the gas is a simple method to bond that piping in an older house, especially since the bonds are accessible at the water heater.
- It’s a little Mickey Mouse, but it’s better than having no bonds.
- If Carlsbad has its own construction department, you can inquire as to whether or not your proposal is permitted.
- Have a good time, Steve
Re: Ground wire from cold to hot water lines then to gas line
- I’m now in Canada.
- It is also required that the gas piping be attached to the ground in this location.
- The approach mentioned above is what is utilized in this application, and the minimum wire size is 8.
- It was incorporated into the code around 15 years ago.
- As a result, it may not be present in certain older homes.
- Despite the fact that my own home is 22 years old, I upgraded it myself when I purchased it 5 years ago, installing a short jumper of 8 wire from cold water pipe to gas piping.