How to Install a Gas Water Heater: A Step-by-Step DIY Guide
As an Amazon Associate, we receive a commission on qualifying purchases made via our links.Find out more.It comes to a point where a water heater replacement is required, but it does not have to be prohibitively expensive.Although gas water heater installation may appear to be a difficult task, it is actually less difficult than you may expect.
If the project is too large for you to handle on your own, you can always contact a professional plumber to help you out.Your gas water heater will be installed by them, and they will also remove and dispose of your old water heater.However, if you’re up for the effort, you may save money by doing the task yourself.To get started, go to the directions below for some direction.
Installing a Gas Water Heater
When it comes to water heaters, the usual service life is 8 to 12 years, so if yours is towards the end of its useful life, you may want to consider getting a new unit (see our selection of the best tankless gas water heaters), rather than fixing your old water heater.Keep in mind that switching between fuel types (gas or electric) is typically not recommended in most cases, but it may be necessary in specific circumstances.You may also want to consider switching to a tankless water heater in order to benefit from the increased fuel efficiency (as well as the money savings) that they provide.Consult with a Professional Plumber in Your Area Get FREE Estimates Right Now!
Step 1: Remove the Old Water Heater
- Turn the gas supply off to the water heater.
Disconnect the gas line from the old water heater by using a wrench to do so.
- Inspect and disconnect the venting from the water heater if it is necessary.
- Set the venting aside for the time being. You’ll put it to good use later.
- Start by turning on a hot water faucet in your home and letting the water run until it is cold
- Turn off the water supply to the water heater from the outside world.
- Connect a garden hose to the drain valve to drain the water
- Open the drain valve and allow the tank to be drained.
- It is possible that the water contains silt. Please refer to this post for assistance in unclogging your drain valve if you are having trouble draining the tank.
- Allowing air to enter the tank is accomplished by opening a hot water faucet.
- The discharge hose from the T&P valve should be disconnected
- Remove the discharge line from the system. You’ll put it to good use later.
- Disconnect the water supply pipes
- remove the old water heater using a hand truck
- and reconnect the water supply lines.
Check with your local plumber and get FREE estimates today.
Step 2: Install the New Water Heater
- Place the new water heater in a drain pan to prevent clogging.
- Glue the discharge pipe to the T&P relief valve together.
Plumbers tape (white) should be applied to the nipple threads of the hot and cold heat traps.
- The hot and cold water nipples should be connected using flexible hoses.
- If dielectric fittings are necessary in your region, make use of them.
Line each end of the connection body with white plumber’s tape to prevent it from fraying.
- Secure the flexible hose to one end of the connector body.
Grasp the other end of the hose and trace around it with a pencil, marking the spot where you want to make the cut. Make sure to leave a little slack in the hose after you’re finished.
- Cut the pipe and remove the burs.
- Insert the compression nut onto the pipe
- Insert the pipe into the fitting and tighten the compression nut.
Fit the water heater with seismic straps so that it is securely fastened to the wall.
Step 3: Fill the Water Heater Tank
- Remove the aerator from the nearest faucet and turn on the hot water side of the faucet
- To check for leaks, turn on the cold water supply to the water heater and turn off the water heater.
- Fill the tank with water if there are no leaks
- otherwise, drain the tank.
- When the water starts to flow from the open faucet, you’ll know the tank is full.
- Once the water stops sputtering, close the faucet that was left open.
Step 4: Attach the Venting and Gas Line
- Connect the venting to the water heater.
Screw self-tapping sheet metal screws into the venting and into the exhaust hood to secure it.
Set the control knob on the water heater’s control valve to the ″OFF″ position.
- Wrap the fitting threads with gas plumbers tape (yellow).
- Insert the flare nut into the control valve.
- Screw the other flare nut onto the gas line.
- Connect the flexible gas hose (yellow) to each flare nut.
- Gas fittings should be treated with a leak detecting solution. If there is a leak in the solution, bubbles will appear
- Tighten any loose connections as necessary.
- Follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for lighting the pilot.
- Inspect the venting of your water heater to ensure that it is operating correctly.
- Installing the air filter is simple.
Watch the Video
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How to Install a Gas Water Heater – Step by Step Guide
Is your water heater leaking from practically every square inch of its surface, and the only option you have is to get it completely replaced?You may be reaching the end of the service life of your water heater.If you know how to install a gas water heater, replacing a water heater will be a piece of cake.Water heaters have a lifespan of 15 to 20 years if they are maintained properly.
Unfortunately, not all of us have the same properties of our domestic water that have an influence on our water heaters.Some gas water heaters may only survive up to 10 years before needing to be replaced with a new one.Installing a new gas water heater to replace your old one is simple if you follow the instructions I’ll provide you with.
Things You Need for This Tutorial
The following items will need to be prepared before you can remove and replace a gas water heater:
New Gas Water Heater
I propose that you choose a gas water heater that comes with a complete installation kit.It would be ideal if you double-checked the fittings to make sure they were compatible with your present configuration.If you don’t have these supplies, you’ll have to get them.Read the installation instructions for your new gas water heater carefully because various manufacturers may have different suggestions.
Pipe wrenches are required for working with gas and water lines, respectively. Other instruments that you may require include a screwdriver, soldering torch, pipe cutter, voltage tester, Teflon tape, tape measure, electrical tape, drills with bits, and safety glasses, among other things.
When installing a gas water heater, the discharge pipe, as well as the fittings, pressure release valve, pipe thread compound, and solder, are all required components. You’ll also need gas and water tubing, a bucket, dishwashing solution, an exhaust vent, and connections to complete the project.
Steps for Installing a Gas Water Heater
Step 1. Close the water and gas supply lines.
The process of replacing a gas water heater begins with the removal of the old unit.Unfortunately, it is not safe to carry out this treatment without first shutting off the gas and water supply valves first.Check for a shutdown valve in the water line that supplies water to the water heater and close it if you find one.If you don’t see any, you might want to turn off the main water supply valve in your basement or at the front of the home, depending on where you live.
Follow the gas supply line that runs from the water heater tank to the house and look for a shutoff valve.Turn the knob a quarter turn at a time until it makes a right angle with the gas line.
Step 2. Empty the water in the water heater tank; loosen the gas line & pipe.
The drain valve on your water heater should be easy to find.Connect a garden hose to the water heater drain valve and drain the water heater’s contents via it.When emptying the water, exercise caution since it may be quite hot.Use two adjustable wrenches to loosen the union at the gas line opposite the gas control valve while you’re draining the water.
This will save you time later.In addition, a pipe wrench should be used to remove the pipe leading to the gas control valve from the valve.
Step 3. Cut the existing water supply lines and remove the old gas water heater tank.
It’s a good idea to loosen the vent pipe before cutting the cold and hot water lines to and from the water heater before cutting the lines themselves. Pipe cutting should be done with a portable pipe cutter to avoid damage to the water lines. Remove the old water heater tank and prepare for the new gas water heater installation by sliding it out of the way first.
Step 4. Install the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve into the new gas water heater tank.
The temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve is already fitted in the majority of gas water heaters at the manufacture.If yours does not, you must tighten this component into the tank’s port by twisting it in a clockwise direction to secure it in place.In this instance, I propose that you learn more about how to modify the water heater, as well as the proper temperature to use.Before installing the T&P relief valve, wrap a piece of Teflon tape around the threads.
Using a pipe wrench, tighten it down.Connect a discharge line to the T&P relief valve, and place a bucket underneath the valve to capture any drips that may occur.
Step 5. Secure the water heater tank piping assemblies.
Copper pipes 6 inches in length should be cut and soldered to 3/4-inch copper tube adapters.Assemble the pipe assemblies and connect them to the cold water input and hot water outflow ports on the water heater.Experts propose utilizing nipples with a plastic coating in the connectors to keep them from corroding in the first place.To prepare the water heater connections, slide the compression ring and nut over the water pipe and tighten them.
Step 6. Mount the new water heater tank and connect the water supply lines.
Place the new water heater so that the water supply lines and the inlet and outlet ports are properly aligned with the inlet and outlet ports.You may also want to check with your local construction code to determine if seismic straps are required.In the event of an earthquake, this component will help to stabilize the water heater, guaranteeing that your hot water tank installation is safe and secure.To connect the compression nut to the water pipes coming from the water heater, slide it to the desired location.
Pipe wrenches are used to tighten the nuts.If the pipes do not line up, you may want to build 45-degree elbow joints to offset the water supply lines if they are not in alignment.
Step 7. Reattach the exhaust vent to the gas water heater tank.
Reposition the exhaust vent above the water heater’s draft hood and secure it in place with the screws that were previously tightened. If the draft hood does not have any openings, you will need to drill a hole through it in order to attach the vent pipe to the tank. Ensure that the exhaust vent’s first elbow is at least a foot above the water heater tank before installing it.
Step 8. Connect the gas line to the new water heater tank.
Acquire a small length of gas pipe and use a pipe joint compound to seal the threaded ends.One end of the tube should be screwed into the gas control valve and tightened to ensure it is secure.Keep in mind how the gas line was connected to the gas control valve on the old water heater?You will have to start over with fresh nipples in order to reconnect everything.
Finish by fastening the gas water pipe union at the end of the process.
Step 9. Fill the tank with water.
Remove the aerator from a faucet in order to release pressure in the system.Turn on the hot water faucet.Turn off the main water supply by opening the main water shutoff valve.Check for leaks at the water heater’s connection points.
Whenever you find a leak anywhere along the water supply line, immediately close the shutdown valve and tighten all of the connections.If there are no leaks, you can keep the faucet open and allow the water to run freely through it.
Step 10. Assess the newly installed water heater for backdrafting.
A gas hot water heater installation is never considered complete unless the presence of a backdraft has been determined.Before turning on the bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans, make sure all windows and doors are closed.Open a hot water faucet next to the water heater and leave the water flowing while you do other things.Maintain a keen ear out for the sound of the gas burner being ignited by the heater.
Light a match and extinguish the flames, leaving just smoke in the air.Place the smoldering matchstick near the draft hood to catch some smoke.You should be able to see the smoke rising from the exhaust vent.If it does not, turn off the gas supply and contact a professional HVAC technician.
Step 11. Check for gas leaks.
Gas water heater installation is dangerous if the gas connections are not done correctly.As a result, you should always check for gas leaks before completing the installation process.Prepare a mix of dishwashing liquid and water and apply it to the gas connections.If you notice bubbles, you may be experiencing a gas leak.
If you are in any doubt, I propose that you use a gas leak detector to find out.
Step 12. Activate the gas water heater pilot light.
Follow the directions provided by the manufacturer for lighting the pilot light on your gas water heater.The majority of water heaters need merely the pressing and holding of a pilot control button and the clicking of an igniter button once the pilot knob has been turned on.Other types need the use of a barbeque lighter to fire the pilot light, while others use an electronic lighting system.You might be interested in watching this video on how to install a gas water heater from Lowe’s Home Improvement.
Some individuals are intimidated by the prospect of learning how to install a gas water heater.Following the methods given in this tutorial, on the other hand, can make you feel more confidence in your decision to replace your old water heater.Your family will appreciate all of the time and work you put into this project.Did you gain more confidence in your ability to install a gas water heater as a result of this guide?
If you answered yes, would you be willing to share this lesson with others as well?If you have any comments or questions, please know that I am more than glad to listen and to share my own opinions with you.
What Are the Steps to Installing a Gas Water Heater?
In the event that you are in the market for a new water heater, you may be curious as to what the installation procedure entails. Traditionally popular, natural gas water heaters are now being installed by an increasing number of people. In this blog article, we’ll walk you through the process of replacing a gas hot water heater from start to finish. Let’s get this party started!
Is DIY Gas Water Heater Installation Dangerous?
We will be completely honest with you: yes, that is true. Let’s go over the processes needed in securely installing a gas water heater, starting with the initial preparation:
Shut Off the Gas to the Old Water Heater
Check to see that the gas supply to your water heater has been disconnected at the main valve before starting any repair. The use of a fire extinguisher will eliminate the possibility of accidentally igniting anything while you are at work.
Remove the Old Water Heater From the Mount
After the gas has been turned off, use a wrench to remove the water pipes from the old heater and dispose of them. After that, you may take it out of its mounting bracket and put it somewhere safe. Wearing gloves and eye protection is essential during this stage since there may be a build-up of debris inside the tubes.
Drain the Water From the Old Heater
Using a wrench, remove the old water heater’s vent line from its mounting bracket once it has been removed from its mount.If you have a cold storage tank that is connected to your hot water lines, empty everything from there as well.This will help to guarantee that nothing leaks out while you are working on removing or installing new pieces of equipment.Remember to include any additional appliances in your home that are linked to these pipes in your calculations.
Install Your New Gas Water Heater
- The following are the measures to take in order to install your new gas water heater: Remove gas from the main valve and a nearby valve
- turn off the gas supply at both valves.
- Disconnect the vent line from your old water heater using a wrench and throw it away. If you have a cold storage tank that is connected to your hot water lines, empty everything from there as well. This will help to guarantee that nothing leaks out while you are working on removing or installing new pieces of equipment. Keep in mind that there may be other appliances in your home that are linked to these pipes.
- Close the gas supply valves on both sides of the house (the main valve and another close by). All hoses and pipes should be connected together using the appropriate fittings (ie: compression nut). Check to see that they are securely fastened so that there are no leaks when everything is reinstalled.
Connect All Hoses/Pipes Together With Proper Fittings
As soon as you’ve finished connecting everything, switch on the gas supply at both valves. Starting your new heater in this manner will ensure that hot water is once again flowing through all of those pipes.
Remember: It Is better to Turn it Over to the Professionals
Although you have the option of installing your own gas water heater, this does not imply that you should.If something goes wrong or there are problems with your installation, it might result in significant property damage, as well as catastrophic injuries or death.You may want to consider hiring pros rather than attempting to complete this task yourself because they will be aware of the specifics of what has to be done.Furthermore, they’ll most likely already have all of the tools essential for any undertaking, such as installing an appliance in your home, at their disposal.
Unique Indoor Comfort can provide heater installation in Elmhurst if you need it.In addition, see HVAC Installation Made Simple: How it’s Done for a better understanding of the process.NoW may be reached at 847-359-5100.
Replace it yourself and save hundreds of dollars!
Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family Water heaters that are beyond repair leak, waste energy, and can actually leave you in the cold. This article will teach you how to install a new gas or electric water heater on your own, saving you a significant amount of money in the process. Time Complexity is present throughout the day. Intermediate Costs range from $101 to $250.
It is possible to replace a water heater on your own if you have some basic plumbing knowledge and save $200 to $400 in plumber’s costs.How to replace a standard natural gas water heater is what we’ll demonstrate.For a propane heater, the technique is the same as described above.If you pick a gas model that is ″power vented,″ all of the water and gas connections are the same as they are in the example, but the venting procedure is different.
More information may be found by searching for ″power-vented water heater″ above.The process of replacing an electric water heater is a little less complicated.It is not necessary to deal with gas pipes or venting because all of the water connections are the same.For more information on circumstances other than the one we demonstrate here (such as electric models, plastic water lines, or copper gas lines), look up ″replace water heater″ in the search box above.
Time, materials and money
With a lot of plumbing knowledge, you might be able to finish this project in half a day or even less.Nonetheless, we recommend that you begin early in the morning so that you have enough of time to complete the task and do not leave your family without hot water overnight.You’ll need someone to assist you in moving the old unit out and bringing in the new one.To find out how to properly dispose of the old heater, contact your local garbage hauler or recycling facility for assistance.
Water Heater Cost
A new water heater will range in price from $250 to $500, depending on the size, efficiency, and warranty included in the purchase. It is dependent on your situation and local codes which materials you will require for the installation.
Water Heater Installation Codes
Although you may have previously dealt with plumbing and gas lines, it is always best to be safe and call your local department of inspections. Obtain a permit (if one is necessary) and consult with an inspector about your installation intentions.
Turn off the gas and water
Photo 1: Shut off the gas
By twisting the handle a quarter turn, you can switch off the gas. When the handle is in the ″off″ position, it is perpendicular to the pipe.
Photo 2: First disconnect the gas
Disconnect the gas line at the ″union″ fitting and turn off the gas. Place the bigger wrench on the nut and a second wrench on the union’s collar to secure it in place. Set the wrenches a quarter turn apart at the beginning of the project.
Photo 3: Cut the cold water line
Cut the cold water pipe above the old gate valve to make way for a new ball valve.Cut the hot water line at the same height.To get started, turn off the gas at the valve near the water heater (Photo 1).(Photo 1).
If the “isolation” valve above your water heater is a gate valve (Photo 3), we recommend that you replace it with a ball valve (Photo 4).(Photo 4).Be sure to use a “fullport valve.” Gate valves often leak or won’t close tightly.To replace the valve, you’ll have to shut off the water at the main valve (usually near the meter) (usually near the meter).That means your whole house will be without water until you install the new valve.
- If you already have a ball valve or if you choose to leave the old gate valve in place, you can simply shut it off.
- That way the rest of the house will have cold water while you work (toilets will still work!).
- With the water and gas off, drain the water heater.
- Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, route it to a floor drain and open the drain valve.
To allow air into the hot water lines and speed up the draining process, go to the highest faucet in the house and turn on the hot side only (on single-handle faucets, push the lever all the way to the left) (on single-handle faucets, push the lever all the way to the left).
Update Your Gas Valves
If your valve does not look like this, check ″Old gas valves can leak″ for more information.
Disconnect the gas, vent and water lines
Disconnect the gas line at the union where it meets the water line (Photo 2).Then, disassemble the threaded ″tee″ and ″drip leg,″ and remove the nipple from the water heater gas control valve, following the directions on the package of parts.Avoid throwing them away since you will require them for the new water heater.The nut on a copper or flexible supply line may simply be unscrewed to access the gas line.
Remove the sheet metal screws from the vent pipe in order to dismantle it.Wearing gloves is recommended since the metal piping’s edges are sharp.If the vent pipes are in good condition, you can repurpose them.However, if you discover even the smallest of holes, splits, or rust, discard them in the garbage.It is inexpensive to replace a pipe, yet leaks can cause dangerous carbon monoxide to accumulate in your house.
- After that, use a tubing cutter to cut the copper water lines (Photo 3).
- The nuts at the water heater should be removed if your water lines are made of copper corrugated copper.
- If you have galvanized steel pipes, you should detach unions in the same way that we did with the gas union in Figure 2.
- Remove the blow tube from the temperature and pressure (T&P) valve at the same time.
It’s possible that you’ll be able to utilize it on your new water heater.The old heater should have drained sufficiently by this stage to allow it to be relocated to the side (with a helper).Sediment may be obstructing the drain valve if the heater is not emptying as quickly as it should.Allow it to drain for as long as feasible, and then transfer the heater outdoors so that you may remove the drain valve from the tank’s drain valve assembly.
Reconnect the water
Photo 4: Install new valves
Reestablish the water supply. To begin, replace the existing valves so that you can turn on the water to the remainder of the home. Install nipples next, followed by threaded fittings and ″stubs″ of pipe to complete the installation. Hold the final component in place until the length is determined.
Photo 5: Make the final connection
Slip couplers are used to complete the final connections.Make certain that the coupler does not slip down when it is heated.Install the drain pan so that the entrance of the drain pan faces the floor drain.Hire a friend to assist you in lifting and setting the heater in the pan.
If you’re changing the isolation valve, you’ll need to solder the new ball valve in place after that.Dielectric nipples should be screwed into the new water heater.These plastic-lined nipples help to minimize corrosion and extend the life of your water heater.Some water heaters come with dielectric nipples already installed; if yours does not, you may purchase a pair to replace them.Make careful to treat the threads with pipe thread sealant or cover them with Teflon tape before installing the pipe.
- Solder female threaded copper pipe fittings to small lengths of copper tubing and allow them to cool before continuing.
- Tighten the cooled fittings onto the nipples until they are snug.
- Then, using ″slip″ couplers, join the small pieces of pipe below the valves (Photo 4) to complete the final connections (Photo 5).
- (Photo 5).
Slip couplers must be used; normal ″stopped″ couplers will not function properly.For information about soldering copper pipe, type ″solder″ into the search box above.Attach a ″blow tube″ to the T&P valve using a threaded rod.Use 3/4-in.galvanized steel tubing or copper pipe instead of the existing blow tube if the old blow tube is too short (along with a male threaded fitting).
- If you are using galvanized tubing, you should cut off the threads at the bottom to prevent someone from capping off the blow tube in the case that the T&P valve leaks.
Install the new vent
Photo 6: Connect the vent pipe and hood
Sheet metal screws are used to attach the vent pipe to the hood.No matter how narrow the hood’s aperture is in comparison to the vent pipe, never employ a reducer.Attach the new draft hood to the water heater using sheet metal screws and secure it in place with the screws.Check your heater’s installation instructions for the suggested vent pipe diameter for your particular model.
Installing a reducer is not necessary if the recommended vent pipe diameter is greater than the vent hood opening diameter.Before you install the adjustable elbow, you must first measure a straight section of new galvanized vent pipe to ensure that it rises as high as feasible (the higher the rise, the better the draft).Make sure that the pipe slopes down toward the water heater by 1/4 inch per foot of pipe length on any horizontal portions of venting.Small lengths of pipe should be bent out and screwed directly to the vent hood to prevent leakage (Photo 6).Then proceed to attach the new vent pipe parts to the flue as you did previously.
- For each vent pipe junction, most plumbing rules require a minimum of three screws to be used.
- Sheet metal cutting tips may be found by searching ″sheet metal″ in the search box above.
Hook up the gas
Photo 7: Reconnect the gas
Reconnect the natural gas line. Keep the control valve in the closed position to avoid harming it. Then screw the drip leg into the tee using a hex wrench.
Photo 8: Determine correct nipple length
To establish the right nipple length, take a measurement between the union and the tee and add one inch.
Photo 9: Test for leaks
Check for leaks by scrubbing each connection with soapy water.If you notice bubbles, you should tighten or reconnect the joint..Gas-rated pipe thread sealant or tape should be applied to the gas nipple (do not use normal white Teflon tape), and the pipe should be threaded into the new gas control valve.Using two pipe wrenches, tighten the nipple until it is snug (Photo 7).
Assemble the tee and drip leg using the same two-wrench assembly method as the other legs.It may be necessary to measure for a new nipple if the original portion of pipe below the union is no longer suitable (Photo 8).Before measuring the length of the intermediate nipple, make sure that the gas union has been assembled and tightened properly.Add 3/4 in.to 1 in.
- to this measurement and you’ll have enough money to buy a new nibple.
- Upon completion of the gas connections, switch on the gas and inspect the system for leaks (Photo 9).
- You may purchase a leak detector in a handy spray bottle ($3), or you can make your own solution ($3) from scratch (one part dish detergent, two parts water).
- Fill the tank with water by opening the water valves and an upstairs faucet.
Continue to leave the faucet open until water starts to flow.After that, turn off the water and inspect the new water connections for leaks.Following the manufacturer’s directions, turn on the gas valve and ignite the pilot light on the stove.With your new water heater, you’ll be in for a nice surprise: the old ″match-lit″ pilot system has been replaced by a more modern electronic pilot system.Instead of lighting a match or using a lighter to ignite the pilot, you simply press a button.
- Backdrafting, which may let deadly carbon monoxide into your house, should be checked as soon as the burner is turned on.
- Close all doors and windows, and put on the exhaust fans in the kitchen and bathroom.
- After the burner has been operating for at least one minute, slide an incense stick about the draft hood to diffuse the smoke.
The smoke should be pulled up and out of the room through the vent.If this is not the case, it is possible that exhaust is entering your home.Turn off the gas and contact a licensed plumber for assistance.Last but not least, adjust the thermostat to a comfortable setting.
- (For assistance, type ″water heater temperature″ into the search box above.) You’ll have enough hot water for a nice shower in around two hours, which will be well worth the wait.
Old Gas Valves Can Leak
The ″grease-pack″ valves that are commonly seen in older homes have a tendency to leak as they get older.Even though your local code does not demand replacement, we recommend that you install a ball-type gas valve ($10) in its place ($10 per valve).It is not difficult to replace the valve; you simply remove the old one and screw on the new one.However, you will need to turn off the main gas valve and then relight the pilot lights.
If you don’t know how to complete these activities, you should hire a professional plumber, who will charge between $80 and $150.
Local Code Requirements
There are a variety of accessories available for your new water heater at your local home center.Some are needed by municipal regulations, while others are simply wonderful ideas.Plumbing codes differ from one jurisdiction to the next, so verify with your local inspector.Valve for turning off the gas All codes need the installation of a gas valve near the water heater.
If you have a ″grease-pack″ valve, go to the section above titled ″Old Gas Valves Can Leak.″ Earthquake straps are another option.In earthquake-prone locations, these straps are necessary to keep a water heater from toppling over.$12 for a pair of shoes.3.Gas line that is adaptable Flexible natural gas lines can tolerate movement and are frequently required in seismically active regions.
- It is easier to connect than steel pipe, but they are not permitted everywhere, so verify with your inspector before proceeding.
- Leg with a drip Before reaching the water heater’s control valve, any dust or grit in the gas line is collected in this small portion of pipe.
The drip leg’s length varies depending on the application.5.A valve that isolates the system All building codes necessitate the installation of a valve on the cold water line.Even though it is not needed by code, having a second valve on the hot line makes replacing the water heater in the future much easier.Each one costs ten dollars.
- Water lines that are adaptable These pliable lines are designed to endure movement and are necessary in earthquake-prone environments.
- However, you may want to utilize them simply because they are simple to set up.
$20 for a pair of shoes.7.Overflow pan (optional) Most plumbing rules require the installation of a pan and drain pipe in areas where a leak might cause significant damage.Installing a drain pan, on the other hand, is a smart idea in any place.
- Expansion tank (optional) The installation of an expansion tank is required by some rules in order to absorb the pressure caused as heated water expands.
- Blow tube (costs $35).
- Pressure is released through the T&P valve, and scorching hot water is sent down a ″blow tube″ toward the floor.
Most of the time, a gap of 18 inches or less is necessary between the blow tube and the floor.
Water Heater Bonding
The installation of a bonding wire between the cold and hot pipes and the gas line is required by New Jersey building rules.Despite the fact that the majority of local codes do not need bonding wires, they are nonetheless useful.According to the experts we spoke with, bonding wires may actually help to increase the life of a water heater by channeling electrolysis away from the anode rod and tank—even on electric water heaters—and into the tank.So, whether or not your local code requires the installation of a bonding wire, you may want to consider doing so to extend the life of your water heater.
This small project is quite straightforward.It just costs approximately $10 and takes about 10 minutes to complete the process.
Required Tools for this Project
Make a list of all of the equipment you’ll need for this DIY project before you begin; you’ll save both time and frustration this way.
Required Materials for this Project
Preparing all of your stuff ahead of time can save you time and money on last-minute buying visits. Here’s a list of things to do.
Drip Leg (Sediment Trap) for Fuel Piping
Installed a proper drip leg or sediment trap in the proper location
What are they? What is the difference between a proper and improper drip leg?
Drizzle leg, also known as a sediment trap, is a device that is installed on fuel pipe to prevent sediment, debris, and moisture from entering a gas appliance or fuel regulator during operation.The installation of drip legs must comply with or exceed the requirements of the fuel piping rules and the manufacturer’s specifications for the appliances or devices being installed.The drip leg is a section of the fuel pipe system that protects your appliances and regulators from being damaged by the gasoline itself.It is a fairly straightforward and essential component of the installation of gasoline pipe.
When it comes to natural gas and propane, the drip leg specifications are the same.When it comes to installing a drip leg, there are correct and incorrect methods.In the article, the cover photo depicts an erroneous installation, which is wrong.We frequently discover drip legs that have been fitted improperly or have been removed entirely.In order for the gasoline to flow through the drip leg, it must always be fitted vertically.
- This ensures that when the fuel flows through the tee above and there is a change in direction for the fuel to flow through, the fuel will flow through.
- It is possible that silt and debris will be driven over the tee by the fuel pressure that is behind the drip leg and will never make it into the drip leg itself if it is mounted horizontally instead of vertically.
- Rather than flowing into the tee horizontally, heavier sediment will flow into it vertically, into the drip leg, rather than changing direction with the fuel and exiting horizontally.
- For all of your plumbing and fuel pipe needs, NCWaterHeaters.com is available to assist both residential and business customers in the Raleigh, North Carolina region.
We can handle everything from a small service call to a large-scale project.You may reach us by phone at (919) 868-3585 or by filling out the contact form on our website.
What is a Gas Line Sediment Trap
Drizzle leg, also known as a sediment trap, is a device that is installed on fuel pipe to prevent sediment, debris, and moisture from entering a gas appliance or fuel regulator during usage.The installation of drip legs must comply with or exceed the requirements of the fuel piping rules and the manufacturer’s specifications for the appliances or devices being installed..The drip leg is a section of the fuel pipe system that protects your appliances and regulators from being damaged by gasoline leakage.In the case of gasoline piping installation, it is a very basic yet vital component to have.
When it comes to natural gas and propane, the drip leg requirements are same.When it comes to installing drip legs, there are correct and incorrect methods.As shown in the cover shot of the article, the installation is wrong.We frequently discover drip legs that have been put improperly or that have been removed entirely from a system.In order for the gasoline to flow through the drip leg, it must always be mounted vertically.
- This ensures that when the fuel flows through the tee above and there is a change in direction for the fuel to flow through, the fuel will continue to flow through.
- It is possible that silt and debris will be driven over the tee by the fuel pressure that is behind the drip leg and will never make it into the drip leg itself if it is mounted horizontally rather than vertically.
- Rather from flowing into the tee horizontally, heavier sediment will flow into it vertically, into the drip leg, rather than changing direction with the fuel and exiting horizontally from it.
- NCWaterHeaters.com provides plumbing and fuel pipe services to both residential and business customers in the Raleigh, North Carolina region.
We can handle everything from a small repair call to a huge project.Call us at (919) 868-3585 or use the contact form on our website to get in touch with us right now!
Why This is Important
Gas appliances are expensive, and you want to make sure that they survive as long as they possibly can.If the sediment trap is correctly maintained and fitted, it will keep particles out of the appliance and help to extend its life.This is referred to as ″drip leg,″ ″drip tee,″ or ″dirt leg″ by some individuals.Those names, on the other hand, are unlikely to appear in the construction codes.
Appliances That Require and Don’t Require a Gas Line Sediment Trap
Pool gas heaters, fireplaces, and other automated appliances are among the items that must be equipped with a gas line sediment trap in Florida, according to the state’s Building Code.Appliances that are exempt from this requirement include: When in operation, an appliance emits a flame, which is referred to as an illuminating device in some circles.Decorative vented appliances for installation in ventless fireplaces, gas fireplaces, and outdoor barbecues are also included in this category.They do not require the usage of a gas sediment trap since the operator of such appliances can detect when they are no longer functional.
For further information on the regulations and exceptions, consult your state’s Building Code.
Can a Gas Line Sediment Trap Be Installed
Installing a sediment trap on a natural gas appliance is possible if it did not come with it.A professional may complete this task for you for around $100, or you can get a kit from your local hardware shop for approximately $10.Another option is to purchase a gas line from a hardware shop and have it installed for even less money.Because sediment must be allowed to flow downstream, it is critical that it be installed vertically.
Additional regulations govern where and how sediment traps can be built, including the following:
- In close proximity to the equipment’s intake
- All pounds-to-inches pressure regulators were installed before this one.
- Made of a tee fitting with a capped nipple at the bottom opening of the run of the tee that is at least 3 inches in length
- In order to prevent silt from flowing over and into the trap, a 90-degree shift in gas flow direction should be provided.
- When the cap is installed, it must be at a lower elevation than the tee fitting.
See this video for instructions on installing a gas sediment trap in your Bradford White water heater if you have one. This is now very necessary. While you’re there, check to see that the water heater reset button is operational and that you’re following the water heater maintenance guidelines.
How Sediment Gets Into the Gas Line
When pipes are cut or gas lines are installed, metal shavings from the cutting or installation process might enter the gas line. Additionally, dirt from personnel working on gas line installation in the vicinity. If the sediment gets into the appliance, it has the potential to clog it and cause it to fail.
Example of Correctly Installed Gas Sediment Trap
A gas sediment trap is made up of three parts: a tee, a nipple, and a cap.It should be sent straight down before the pipe that feeds into the appliance itself.G2419.4 of the Florida Building Code is what you need to know (408.4) Sediment trap is a type of sediment trap.A sediment trap must be fitted downstream of the appliance shutdown valve and as near to the inlet of the appliance as is practicable if a sediment trap is not already included in the appliance.
Alternatively, a tee fitting with a capped nipple of any length fitted vertically in the bottom-most aperture of the tee, or any device designated as an efficient sediment trap, may be used as a sediment trap.Appliances such as stoves, clothes dryers, and outdoor barbecues that provide illumination are not required to be installed with this feature.Here is an example of one that has been placed wrongly.Due to the fact that the gas line does not go directly into the drip leg or sediment trap, this is the case.Debris in the gas line has the potential to migrate inside the appliance with relative ease.
What If There Isn’t a Gas Sediment Trap on My Appliance?
It is not a huge problem if one of the components of your appliance is missing. Don’t be concerned! Having said that, when you replace the appliance, ask the plumber to install one if there isn’t already one present. In case you have any queries concerning any other sorts of plumbing, you may find the answers to such inquiries here.
What If It Comes Up in a Home Inspection
When doing a home inspection, some home inspectors will make a note if there is no gas sediment trap in the house. However, it is not one of those issues that must be resolved prior to the closing of a house purchase. It’s only advised, to be honest.
Maintenance of Appliances
If you are checking your appliances to see if they have a gas sediment trap, double-check that they are in proper functioning order before proceeding. All appliances must be maintained in order to function properly.
Swimming Pool Heater
If the pool heater is in good working order, check to see that the pool pump is not leaking and that the pool area is safe. As soon as you notice a leak in the pool, have it corrected immediately.
When inspecting the fireplace, make sure the chimney seems to be in good condition, including that the ashes are clean, the damper is open, and no animals are attempting to build a nest in the flue.
When To Call a Professional
When you need assistance locating a gas sediment trap on an appliance, are unsure if you require one, or if the trap is not functioning properly, contact a professional.
According to your state’s construction rules, gas sediment traps are only needed on a small number of household appliances. When we do home inspections in Central Florida (Clermont, Orlando, and The Villages), we may evaluate your appliances to answer any queries you may have. Do you have a question concerning your gas sediment traps or do you require our services? Leave a comment below!
Can I install a water heater myself?
18th of March, 2021 Learning how to perform basic home maintenance tasks is a fantastic concept for any homeowner, but is it practical to add a DIY water heater installation to the list?However, while it is not recommended that you perform a DIY water heater installation on your own, especially if you lack the necessary skills and certifications to do so, understanding the early signs that your water heater needs to be replaced, as well as what to do in response to those signs, can help you save money in the long run.
Signs Your Water Heater May Need Replacing
You should contact a professional if you observe any of the following indicators that your hot water heater needs to be repaired or replaced:
1. There Isn’t Enough Hot Water
You won’t have enough hot water to fulfill your daily demands if your water heater isn’t operating properly, which is one of the most obvious symptoms that something is wrong.
2. Your Water Heater is Leaking
A leaky water heater is a clear indication of a major internal problem, and it might indicate the need for either a repair or a complete replacement. Turn off the water supply and the electricity to your water heater, and then call a professional expert to come and investigate the problem.
3. Strange Sounds or Odors Coming from Your Water Heater
If your water heater is making loud cracking, popping, bubbling, pounding, or whining sounds, it is likely that it is experiencing a problem that should be rectified.The most worrying noises are those of bubbling or boiling water, which are often produced by overheating and pressure building inside your water heater and should be addressed immediately.Aside from noises, scents may also be used to determine whether or not your water heater is operating correctly.Smells like rotten eggs or musk might indicate that a species of bacteria has infiltrated your water distribution system.
It is not safe to continue using your hot water heater in this condition since your water supply might be polluted with contaminants.Contact a qualified technician as soon as possible.
4. Your Water Heater is Old
In the event that your water heater is more than 10 years old and is behaving oddly, it may be time to consider replacing your unit. While certain hot water heaters manufactured today can endure for even longer periods of time, many units begin to fail after roughly a decade.
Tips for Diagnosing and Troubleshooting Water Heater Problems
- Even though some hot water heater problems may be resolved quickly with a simple repair, others may be serious enough that a complete replacement is more cost-effective and energy efficient. Some suggestions to assist you in diagnosing and troubleshooting your hot water heater problems are as follows: When doing maintenance on your hot water heater, always make sure that the device is completely turned off. This will aid in the prevention of electric shock for both you and your unit.
- If you aren’t receiving any hot water, first check to see if you have tripped a circuit breaker, which would have shut off the electricity to your hot water heater
- The thermostat settings on your hot water heater should be checked to determine whether the high-temperature limit is set too low if you are experiencing problems with your hot water supply. If, on the other hand, your hot water is too hot, check your thermostat settings and modify the high-temperature limit to ensure that it is at a fair degree for your tastes.
- If you’re not receiving enough hot water, it’s possible that your hot water heater is too small for your requirements. It’s possible that you’ll need to replace your hot water heater.
How to Replace a Water Heater (with Pictures) Most homeowners considering a do-it-yourself water heater installation do so in the hopes of saving money, but it may wind up costing you more in the long run than if you had just hired a professional from the beginning.Whenever you replace a hot water heater, you’re dealing with potentially dangerous systems that are simple to damage and can result in bodily harm if not handled properly.As a result, most homeowners aren’t aware of current building rules or suitable installation procedures, and as a result, they may lack the expertise essential to ensure that their water heater is installed correctly.While it is theoretically possible for you to install a hot water heater on your own as a homeowner, the probability that this is a good or safe decision is extremely low..
Allow specialists to handle the installation of your hot water heater to ensure that it is completed correctly.You wouldn’t want to put yourself or your loved ones in any kind of danger.To install a hot water heater on your own, you’ll need to turn off the electrical power to your system, drain the old tank, disconnect all water lines as well as any power or fuel lines, and then disconnect the vent pipe.Once you’ve completed this, you’ll need to remove the old tank and replace it with the new one, as well as install all of the necessary fittings and valves, reconnect all of the lines and vents, and finish the installation.Being that it’s a difficult procedure, we always urge that you collaborate with knowledgeable specialists.
Save Time and Stress
Do you require assistance with your water heater installation? CroppMetcalfe’s qualified 5-Star Technicians are committed to doing the job correctly the first time. To book hot water heater servicing now, give us a call or fill out our online form.
Fix-It Chick: Install a flexible gas connector
It is important to replace the flexible gas connector on any gas appliance, whether it is new or an old appliance that hasn’t been serviced in years, to avoid a potentially hazardous gas leak.In the appliance installation industry since 2006, flexible stainless steel gas connections have been the industry standard.If the current flex line is code compliant, look for the stamp ″ANSI Z 21.24″ on the connecting end of the line to establish whether it is code compatible.The majority of complying flexible gas connections are made of yellow or uncoated stainless steel, depending on the application.Flexible connections made of gray or uncoated brass should be changed as soon as possible.
The second step is to never reuse flexible lines, fittings, or valves, even if they are brand new.Step 3: Gas line fittings are intended for one-time usage only and should not be reused.Disconnecting a previously tightened fitting might cause damage to the connection and render the seal unusable or even dangerous to use.
- In order for the appliance to be pushed away from the wall if required, a flexible gas connector that is large enough to fulfill the appliance’s BTU requirements should be purchased.
- Excess flow valves are now included in a large number of modern flexible connections.
- This type of valve reduces the flow of gas to a non-hazardous level in the case of a ruptured or damaged line connection.
- Select a flexible gas hookup with an excess flow valve to meet your needs.
- Step 3: Turn off the gas supply by using the shut-off valve that is nearby.
- There may not be an adequate shut-off valve in close proximity to an appliance, in which case the main valve will need to be turned off and a suitable shut-off valve will need to be built.
- Removal of the previous flex connector and any extra fittings is required in order to expose the standard pipe threads on both the incoming gas line and the appliance side of the connection in Step 4.
- Step 5: Using a wire brush and a cloth, clean the pipe threads that have been exposed.
Step 6: Seal the pipe threads using yellow thread sealer that has been authorized for use with gas lines.Flare-type fittings should not be sealed with sealant.7.Disconnect the flexible gas connector’s fittings from each end and thread them onto the exposed-thread seal-coated pipe threads, as shown in the diagram.
To secure the fittings in place, use an adjustable wrench to tighten them down.8.Insert the flare nuts of the gas connector into the fittings that have been previously fitted.Using an adjustable wrench, tighten the nuts into their positions.
- Reconnect the gas line and leak-test all connections with a leak-detection fluid before igniting any pilot lights or turning on any gas-powered equipment.
Sediment traps: what and why
- What if you found that there was an extra little leg of gas pipe flowing to your furnace or water heater and wondered what the hell happened? They function as sediment traps. A sediment trap is a device that is purposely designed to prevent sediment from entering the gas pipework and clogging the gas valve or burner region of an appliance and causing it to malfunction. The photo below shows the buildup of silt at the first sediment trap at my home, which is positioned on the main gas line right before the pressure regulator. The trap has been there for eighteen years. I’ve dismantled a slew of sediment traps out of curiosity, but this was the first time I came upon something useful. My furnace and water heater’s sediment traps were entirely depleted of any sediment. A sediment trap has been needed for almost as long as there has been a state fuel gas code in Minnesota, and they are still required today under that code. As a side note, old-school boys and ladies refer to them as ″drip tees,″ ″drip legs,″ ″dirt legs,″ and a variety of other names that are not included in the current version of the code. The following are the fundamental prerequisites for sediment traps: It must be put as near to the equipment’s intake as is reasonably possible
- All pounds-to-inches pressure regulators must be fitted prior to this device.
- Must be constructed from a tee fitting with a capped nipple that is at least 3 inches in length and located in the bottom opening of the run of the tee
- Provide a 90-degree shift in the direction of gas flow to aid in the prevention of silt from flowing over the trap opening.
- Because it does not give this, the photo on the right is an insufficient installation
- When the cap is installed, it must be at a lower elevation than the tee fitting.
When it came to sediment traps, the previous code language only required them where the gas pipe dipped down to the appliances; however, the new code language does not require them everywhere.Sediment traps are needed on any gas appliances that are controlled by an automated valve.″Appliances equipped with an automatic burner ignition and safety shutoff device, as well as other automatic devices that accomplish complete turn-on and shutoff of the gas to the main burner or burners, as well as graduation of the gas supply to the burner or burners, but do not affect complete shutoff of the gas,″ the code states.Therefore, sediment traps are necessary for a variety of appliances such as furnaces, water heaters, clothes dryers, ovens, space heaters, unit heaters, gas fireplaces, and other similar devices.I can’t recall ever seeing one put at a gas fireplace, and they’re nearly never found at ovens.
In fact, just yesterday, I examined a new construction home with a clothes dryer in the basement that was missing a sediment trap from the gas line.It appears that installers and municipal inspectors are unconcerned with the existence or absence of a sediment trap in their installations.To be completely honest, neither do I.
- In addition, Section G2419.4 of the 2012 International Residential Code (IRC), which is NOT used in Minnesota for the fuel gas code, states that ″illuminating appliances, ranges and clothes dryers, decorative vented appliances for installation in vented fireplaces, gas fireplaces and outdoor grills do not need to be so equipped.″ That’s all there is to it.
- If you take a check at your appliance and discover that it does not have a sediment trap, don’t be concerned.
- It isn’t a huge deal at all.
- You should just plan on having it rectified the next time the appliance is replaced.
- Alternatively, you may say ″no.″ If it does not get rectified, it is unlikely to be a major issue.
- If you hear someone making a big fuss over this, encourage them to focus their attention on something more essential, such as cooking supper.
- To view the complete wording of Minnesota’s regulations for sediment traps, please visit this page and scroll down to Section 408.4, or see the picture below.
- Reuben Saltzman is the owner of Structure Tech Home Inspections in Los Angeles.
What is a Sediment Trap?
Skip to the main content Despite the fact that sediment traps have been needed on gas pipe systems for many years, there is still a great deal of misunderstanding regarding them.Please continue reading to discover more about what they are, where they may be installed, and how to set them appropriately.Drip Leg vs.Sediment Trap: Which is Better?Although the terms ″drip leg″ and ″sediment trap″ are sometimes used interchangeably, they refer to two very distinct objects.
Drip legs (also known as ″drips″ in the technical world) are used to collect condensation in a gas pipe system.Because they are located in a low location, they prevent condensation from flowing back into the gas meter.Are you perplexed as to why you have never come across one of these?
- These devices are not required in cases where a regional natural-gas utility produces ″dry gas,″ which is defined as ″gas with a moisture and hydrocarbon dew point that is lower than any usual temperature to which the gas pipework is exposed.″ Silt traps, on the other hand, are devices that are inserted in gas pipe systems to capture sediment, rust, and other material that might block a gas appliance burner and cause it to fail.
- Which Appliances Are Included?
- In accordance with the 2016 California Plumbing Code (CPC), sediment traps are needed for all gas appliances with the exception of lighting appliances, stoves, clothes dryers, ornamental items for use in vented fireplaces, gas fireplaces, and outdoor barbecues.
- There are quite a few exceptions to this rule.
- On the gas pipe that supplies water heaters and furnaces, sediment traps must be placed in the majority of residential properties.
- Installing in a Public Space This area of the plumbing code has undergone several revisions in the previous several development cycles, resulting in considerable misunderstanding.
- For a while, sediment traps were needed to be installed ″as close as feasible″ to the appliance, which prompted many installers to place the sediment trap after the flexible gas connector in order to comply.
- After the appliance cutoff valve was placed, but before the flex connector, the 2016 CPC emphasized that the trap should be fitted after the shutoff valve.
Presumably, this is done in order to make cleaning the trap easier.Configuration Instructions It is required that a sediment trap ″be either a tee fitting with capped nipple at the bottom outlet, as depicted in Figure 1212.8, or other device recognized as an efficient sediment trap,″ according to the CPC.It is vital to observe that the gas enters the tee fitting from the top inlet rather than the side inlet as shown in Figure 1212.8.To minimize potential issues, while installi