Move that water!
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- CIVILIAN is the thread’s creator
- the thread’s start date is August 12, 2004.
Move that water around!First and foremost, good morning everyone.I’ve only skimmed through a few of the threads and this appears to be a well-run community.Perhaps some of you can assist me with a small difficulty that I’ve been juggling in my brain for the past couple of weeks.Consider the following scenario: I have a 1000-liter water tank one metre above the ground.
I have an outlet going out the side of the tank at the bottom of the tank, which is for example a 50 millimeter PVC pipe.Currently, the problem I’m trying to solve is how would I go about moving the maximum amount of water from a lower location (lower than the outlet) into an inlet that is level with and approximately 2 metres away in horizontal distance, without using any additional energy other than the potential energy already present in the tank and without using a syphon or pump or any other external energy of any kind, how would I go about doing this?After thinking about it, it seems obvious to me that whatever pipe I attach to the outlet and up would only be able to carry the water via the tank’s pressure and up to the level of the water at the top of the water tank.
The water must enter by the inlet that faces the tank, but only the bottom lip of the inlet must be at or above the level of the top of the tank.I tend to hang out in the philosophical sections of this site, so I’m not the most technically savvy person.I hope I’ve stated everything properly, but if I haven’t, please let me know and I’ll try to whip up a rough sketch of the scene in paint or something.Cheers!
Answers and Replies
- It would be nice to include a photo here!
- In order to elevate any water beyond the level of the water that is now at the surface of the water in the supply tank, you will require more than just a pipe to do this.
- Perhaps the use of a gravity pump would be beneficial?
- But, yeah, please provide a photo.
- It’s not going to work.
- The level of water in the tank is the same as the level of water at the bottom of the target tank.
- It would only level out once the level in both the source tank and the target tank is the same as in the source tank.
- In actuality, you’d be lucky if you managed to acquire a layer of approximately a centimeter thick in the target tank before the levels were restored to equilibrium, or you’d get nothing at all.
- In any case, you may try a gravity pump!
- After thinking about it, it seems obvious to me that whatever pipe I attach to the outlet and up would only be able to carry the water via the tank’s pressure and up to the level of the water at the top of the water tank.
- The water must enter by the inlet that faces the tank, but only the bottom lip of the inlet must be at or above the level of the top of the tank.
A siphon allows you to raise the water level in a first tank higher than it would otherwise be (for example, to get the water over the top of the tank) as long as the water level at its other end remains below the level at which the siphon was originally installed.The end effect is that you are unable to raise the level of the second tank above the level of the first tank.A siphon allows you to raise the water level in a first tank higher than it would otherwise be (for example, to get the water over the top of the tank) as long as the water level at its other end remains below the level at which the siphon was originally installed.The end effect is that you are unable to raise the level of the second tank above the level of the first tank.It makes no difference: even with a siphon, he is unable to raise the level of the water in the first tank above the level of the water in the second tank.If he were able to, he would repeat the process with a third tank, and so on and so on.
- In any case, you may try a gravity pump!
- This may work if he doesn’t have to move it quickly and he can acquire enough drop before the rising tide comes into play.
- Pump with Gravity It makes no difference: even with a siphon, he is unable to raise the level of the water in the first tank above the level of the water in the second tank.
- In fact, you can force the water to rise by using a siphon – it only needs to finish up below the level of the water in the first tank in it to work.
That is exactly what a siphon is – it is a device that allows you to siphon gas from a gas tank.In fact, you can force the water to rise by using a siphon – it only needs to finish up below the level of the water in the first tank in it to work.That is exactly what a siphon is – it is a device that allows you to siphon gas from a gas tank.I don’t care whether the siphon can go as high as I want because the water contained within it is completely worthless to anyone.The aim is to figure out how to get useable water into a second tank above the first one without using any siphons.Moreover, the fact is that, while employing a siphon, you may obtain water above the bottom of the first tank, you will never be able to obtain water over the level of the first tank.
The most recent revision was made on August 15, 2004.I don’t care whether the siphon can go as high as I want because the water contained within it is completely worthless to anyone.For one thing, it’s beneficial if you’re attempting to take gas from someone because the only other method to accomplish this without a pump would be to flip the car upside down.For one thing, it’s beneficial if you’re attempting to take gas from someone because the only other method to accomplish this without a pump would be to flip the car upside down.
As far as I can tell, your automobile will not be able to use the petrol while it is still INSIDE the siphon.As I previously stated, the aim is to figure out how to transfer usable water into a second tank above the first one without using any siphons.The fact is that you can acquire water over the bottom of the first tank using a siphon, of course, but you will never get any water ABOVE THE LEVEL of the first tank using a siphon.As far as I can tell, your automobile will not be able to use the petrol while it is still INSIDE the siphon.Using the siphon, fuel is drawn up and out of the gas tank, and then down into the container you are collecting it in.In order for it to operate, the end of the siphon from which the gas is sucked out must be lower than the amount of gas in the vehicle’s tank.
Take a look at these links: HERE and HERE.Yes, but the container in which you collect it must not be higher than the level of your gasoline tank!Consider the following scenario: I have a 1000-liter water tank one metre above the ground.I have an outlet going out the side of the tank at the bottom of the tank, which is for example a 50 millimeter PVC pipe.
- Currently, the problem I’m trying to solve is how would I go about moving the maximum amount of water from a lower location (lower than the outlet) into an inlet that is level with and approximately 2 metres away in horizontal distance, without using any additional energy other than the potential energy already present in the tank and without using a syphon or pump or any other external energy of any kind, how would I go about doing this?
- Yes, but the container in which you collect it must not be higher than the level of your gasoline tank!
- It is so bad that even a syphon will not function.
- In other words, nothing will work, or at the very least nothing that does not rely on external power to move the water will function.
- In the same way as I stated, water will enter the pipe and remain there since the filling of the pipe will undoubtedly drop the water level to a level lower than the bottom of the second vessel.
- In other words, nothing will work, or at the very least nothing that does not rely on external power to move the water will function.
- This is not a true statement in the least.
- A gravity pump is capable of moving water to a location higher than the bottom of the water level without the need of external energy (except the kinetic energy of falling water).
- This does not violate any of the rules of physics.
- It accomplishes this by leveraging the falling water to transport a little amount of water to a higher elevation.
- Even though they are very inefficient (moving just a small percentage of the water that is dropped to a higher point), sluggish, and waste water, they are capable of moving water to a higher plane without the need of external power.
- This is not a hoax; they are actually in use today.
- Okay, but doing so would need the disposal of the water that was utilized to drive the pump.
- (This is the same mechanism that is used to increase the pressure in air tanks when there isn’t a compressor nearby with sufficient capacity).
- I did not consider the waste of water when I was developing my argument.
- However, you are correct in that you may be able to get some water into the second tank by sacreficing water.
- Using the siphon, fuel is drawn up and out of the gas tank, and then down into the container you are collecting it in.
- In order for it to operate, the end of the siphon from which the gas is sucked out must be lower than the amount of gas in the vehicle’s tank.
- The most crucial point is that the level of water in the second tank will never be greater than the amount of water in the first tank.
- Take a good look at THERE for a moment.
- It’s important to note once more that while a siphon can be used to raise water over the bottom of the first tank, it can never raise water ABOVE THE LEVEL of the first tank itself.
- I’m worried you don’t believe in what I’m telling you.
- This page was last modified on August 16, 2004.
- The most crucial point is that the level of water in the second tank will never be greater than the amount of water in the first tank.
- Take a good look at THERE for a moment.
- It’s important to note once more that while a siphon can be used to raise water over the bottom of the first tank, it can never raise water ABOVE THE LEVEL of the first tank itself.
I’m worried you don’t believe in what I’m telling you.As has already been said by a number of individuals.As has previously been mentioned by a number of others, including myself.
- Rogerio, It just appeared to me that you didn’t grasp what a siphon was supposed to do.
- It’s a minor issue, especially considering that it has nothing to do with the problem that was presented at the beginning of the topic.
- Oh no!
- Please don’t do that!
- Russ watters, I’d had the same idea of you as well!:-) Hello everyone, I apologize for not responding sooner, but I appreciate the overwhelming reaction.
Because of some technical challenges, I’m using a new username and password.Just wanted to let you know that I am still interested in this project.Perhaps if I upload a diagram, you’ll be able to better understand what I’m trying to do.In addition, I want to do it in a quick amount of time, preferably in 20 seconds or less, by just pouring as much water as I can.The amount of waste water generated is not a concern.The schematic will be completed tonight or tomorrow; I apologize for the delay; I’m quite limited on time at the moment.
- The gravity pump appears to be of high quality, but I am not interested in spending so much money on it.
- I’m only looking for the bare necessities, which I can probably find at the local hardware store.
- There are essentially two approaches to dealing with your situation.
- The first of them is the previously stated gravity pump.
Yet another inefficient, but workable way of lifting a relatively little volume of water via a height is demonstrated here.As previously stated, siphons *will not* work for your application if the water must end up at a greater elevation than it began at.(Yes, we understand how siphons operate, and no, they are not capable of supplying water from a greater height.) The second item is a motorized pump, which you might get up at your local hardware store or home improvement center.If you’re working on a school assignment, the odds are good that you’ll be asked to construct a simple gravity pump.Gravity pumps are used in a limited number of practical applications.
It is possible to get a tiny electric water pump for a few pounds if all you want to do is fill a larger tank.Using a sealed main (lower) tank and applying pressure to it is the only other option I can think of right now.@brewnog This is another another example of foreign power.The task at hand is to refrain from utilizing external power.
Pressurizing the first container would almost certainly work, since it would transform into a massive supersoaker.By applying pressure, you’d be able to empty the first container in a matter of seconds, and depending on the pressure, even sooner.Even if the goal is to use just the potential energy stored within the supply tank and both tanks are at the same pressure, the gravity pump is the only viable method in this case.In addition, if it *is* some sort of school challenge project, you may have a good time putting it together!Finally, if you’re going to utilize pressure, make sure you know how much pressure the container can sustain.If you could get approximately 2000 psi or higher behind it, that would be great fun: surprise: Then there’s the issue of keeping it in the second container.
tongue N is the second letter.Either way, best of luck, and do keep us updated on your progress.Thank you so much for your assistance, gentlemen.Although I haven’t done any calculations yet, I’ve been thinking about making some sort of see-saw-type contraption, in which the water flows through a hollow pvc pipe to a far container, and then fills the pipe itself, allowing the first container to fill and weigh down, raising the other lighter container to the top of the see-saw.
But, in order for it to flow into the inlet, I’d need some type of spring system, and I don’t believe the horizontal distance between the outlet and the inlet is long enough, which would necessitate the use of a seesaw that isn’t quite straight, and I’m not sure that would work.As promised, here’s an extremely badly drawn picture of the problem on paint to illustrate the point.(I’m simply using a touch pad for now.) It appears that I’ll have to learn how to make a crude gravity pump if I want to continue my quest.
EDIT: Damn it, the image is too large for the 400 x 400 resolution permitted.The only way to get it smaller is to go and ask someone how to do it.In case my explanation wasn’t clear enough, here’s what the problem is.
- Sorry, but your see-saw concept will not work.
- In order to raise the water level, you must feed energy to the system.
- The see-saw concept can be successful if the water used for weight is emptied at the bottom of the see-saw motion, allowing the bearer to rise and continue the motion.
- Initially, I thought that a water wheel arrangement may be feasible, possibly to turn a conveyor belt with cups connected in order to carry water to a higher level.
- Again, it would squander the majority of the water by rotating the water wheel, but it could be possible to do.
- As a result, it would become an even less efficient gravity pump.
- An old turbo charger can be removed from a car and used to create a gravity pump, which is much easier to do.
4 Ways To Siphon Water
- Siphoning is a task that almost all of us will have to deal with at some point in our lives, and it is one that many people deal with on a daily basis.
- For the most part, when people attempt it for the first time, they have no idea where to begin or even what it is.
- There are various ways to go about it, and using the wrong method might result in a mouthful of water or a liquid that does not move as you swallow.
- In every situation, whether you’re emptying a pool, cleaning a tank, extracting water from a hole, working on a toilet, or attempting to get an extended transfer to work, a correct siphon will be the most efficient and effective approach to complete the task at hand.
- Your local home improvement store is likely to have all of the goods you need to perform the work in a normal manner, and in the event that you don’t, you can quickly obtain them there.
- We will list the three classic methods of siphoning water below, and then we will discuss a far simpler method that you may find interesting.
- The quick technique does need the use of a specialist instrument, but the cost is little when compared to the amount of time, work, and irritation it saves you.
What Is A Siphon?
- The name ″pipe″ or ″tube″ is derived from an Ancient Greek word that means pipe or tube.
- It may be used to refer to any number of devices that enable water to pass through them, but it is most commonly used to describe an upside down, u-shaped hose that permits water to flow uphill without the necessity of a pump in most instances.
- In order for it to function properly, the pressure at the two ends must be different from one another.
- Under normal circumstances, water flows from high to low in a tube, but when the lower end of the tube is pressed, the liquid can flow from low to high in the tube.
- The water is forced upwards by increased pressure to the low pressure zone at the top of the arch, where it subsequently falls down the opposite side as gravity pulls it down and out of the arch.
- As long as the tube remains full, the force of gravity will continue to pull water up and over the top of the tube after the process has initiated.
- To get the best results, the container to be emptied should be elevated above the spot into which the liquid is intended to drain.
- Interested in learning more?
- Check check the wikipedia page for more information.
3 Traditional Ways To Siphon Water:
1. Use a Garden Hose and Faucet
- When working with a significant amount of liquid that has been held in a larger container, this procedure is frequently utilized.
- The large diameter of the hose is a benefit in this situation, but it may be a disadvantage in smaller applications.
- Using a faucet while in place or pre-filling can be a little faster than immersing, but depending on the approach you choose, it may be more than you are willing to take on at this time.
- Both methods may necessitate a trip to the shop, but they are both slightly different from one another.
- A single hose and two clamps will be used for the first version, and two hoses and a specific adaptor will be used for the second variation.
- When it comes to draining the water from an above-ground pool, either of these ways would be satisfactory options.
- a single hose:
- Decide on a site and make certain that the water being drained is higher up than the region to which you want it to be transferred. You can simply drain half of a pool into your yard, but if you want the pool fully empty, it will be considerably more difficult to do. This is due to the elevation, and it may be handled by routing the hose down a sewer or into anything that is lower than the ground.
- Close the male end of the hose with a clamp to prevent water from flowing through it. Attaching certain nozzles with an off setting may also be able to do the same objective, but using something you already have on hand
- Connect the non-clamped female end to a nearby faucet and turn it on to fill the container.
- Once the container is full, turn off the water, detach the hose, and clamp the end of the hose so that the container remains full and no water escapes. If you live in a home without a clamp, lifting the end of the hose and covering it securely with your hand may be sufficient if you move quickly enough
- nevertheless, maintaining the hose full is essential. The liquid contained therein will create the pressure necessary to initiate the siphoning process.
- Pick up either end and drop it into the container you wish to empty. It is possible that you may wish to fix it in place at the bottom, but be careful not to obstruct the flow throughout the procedure.
- Place the other end in the place where you want the liquid to be delivered.
- The clamp must first be removed from the submerged side, making certain that it does not float upward.
- Remove the clamp at the other end of the pipe, and the water should begin to flow shortly afterward. It should be able to move because of the pressure and gravity acting on it.
- If the source end of the hose is not attached at the base, keep an eye on it. As the water level drops, it will become increasingly critical that it remains submerged.
- When the pressure is no longer present, or when the water level reaches a specific level, the flow will cease.
It may be simpler to use this approach than the one described above if you have two hoses and a shut off valve to link them together. Due to the fact that it is not necessary to transfer an entire hose, there is less chance for mistake. If you are concerned that using only one hose may result in annoyance, a simple investment can make it a more foolproof procedure overall.
- In the same manner as before, choose your locations.
- Incorporate one end into your full container and immerse it completely if feasible, then fasten it in place. When anchoring in place, take care not to obstruct the flow of water.
- Then, connect the other end of your garden hose to the area where you want the water to flow
- Make sure your shut-off valve is fully operational by screwing it on.
- Connect your other hose to the valve’s unused end and then connect the other end of the second hose to a faucet on the other side of the valve
- Turn on the faucet and wait for the hose to fill up with water.
- Once the first hose is completely full, close the valve to keep the water contained before disconnecting the second line. Make certain that the faucet is turned off first.
- To get the water running, simply open the valve to allow it to begin flowing.
- Check to see that the source end of your hose remains submerged when the water level decreases.
2. Submerge a Tube
- If you don’t want to bother with with carrying a full hose across your yard or acquiring specific equipment for the task, you may use the submersion approach, which simply means that you fill the hose or tube in the spot where you want to empty it before pulling it away from there.
- Although this method is effective for bigger containers, it may not be the most convenient.
- It may be highly successful when dealing with lesser numbers or in more easily accessible settings.
- A garden hose or any other sort of flexible tubing will suffice because there is no need to connect to a water supply line or faucet.
- In order to begin, take your plastic tube and submerge the entire thing under water in the container you wish to empty
- you will notice air bubbles begin to rise to the top as water enters and air is expelled from the container. The tube should be completely filled once the air has been expelled, but give it a good shake to be sure before moving on to the next step. If your tank isn’t full, you’ll have troubles
- Once the container is full, grasp one end and cover it with your hand or thumb to retain the pressure on the container and the water within. Make certain that everything is thoroughly covered in order to avoid complications.
- Remove the covered end of the container from the water and place it in a container or area that is lower in elevation than the container being emptied. Take precautions to ensure that it remains covered until you have it in the perfect spot. Using a clamp can make this process easier
- first, check sure the other end is not floating up, and then release your thumb or clamp to allow the water to flow through the pipe. The liquid will move up, over, and out of the upper container to the bottom container.
3. Use Your Mouth
- It is possible to have a good time with this strategy, but it may not be the greatest option for those who do not want to taste the liquid they are moving.
- As with the other techniques, you will be filling the tube to provide the necessary pressure, but this time you will suck the tube completely full using your mouth instead of your fingers.
- If you do it correctly, you should not have any water go down your neck, but this is a danger for anyone who is doing it for the first time.
- If you envision an upside-down u shape, you’ll want to suck until the water reaches the top of the curve, which is where you want to be.
- After passing over the curve, the water should have completed the siphon and should continue to flow on its own own.
- If you pay close attention and timing it appropriately, this approach is as effective as any other available.
- When employing this approach, good visibility may significantly reduce danger and increase performance; however, using a hose from your garden may not be the ideal option when selecting supplies and equipment.
- At order to begin, set a bucket or other container in a position that is lower than the level of the water you intend to transfer
- Placing one end of your tube beneath the water and the other end over to your empty container are both good ideas.
- Make a sucking motion with the dry end of the tube, making care to keep your head lower than the end that is in the water.
- Because it is critical to cease suction at the appropriate moment using this procedure, a clear tube is the most appropriate choice.
- Take notice of the liquid and stop sucking just before the liquid reaches the top and just before it begins to fall. If you’re emptying a bucket, you should essentially cease sucking as soon as the water hits the top rim
- Place the end of the tube you were sucking into the bucket as quickly as possible and allow the water to flow
- See that the end that is immersed remains submerged and that the flow continues until the liquid is gone.
The Easy Way To Siphon Water
- For those who believe that all of the solutions listed above need too much effort or talent, please continue reading for a far simpler solution.
- It’s a brilliant technology that makes this work extremely simple while also almost eliminating the risk of error or issue in the first place.
- After purchasing the instrument, you will have a quick and easy method of siphoning water or any other liquid without the need for any other tools.
- Additionally, it functions perfectly as a typical pump, but it fills a hose in seconds and generates the pressure sufficient to commence a constant stream of liquid without the need for any additional equipment.
- Attach any standard garden hose to the end of the hose that will provide you with the length you want, and a simple pump action will fill the hose with the water you need to get rid of.
- Once the tank is filled, just turn off the pump and observe the water flow.
- In comparison to any of the three methods stated above, it is less dirty, takes less time, and is significantly faster.
- Additionally, because it is a standard pump, you may use it to suck up any residual water after the flow has eventually stopped.
- In addition, the pump action allows you to remove water when you are unable to syphon owing to weather conditions.
- For every six back and forth motions, you will transfer one gallon of water.
- Attach a garden hose to the tool’s bottom end, or to both ends if you have both ends.
- Submerge the hose in the water and make certain that it remains submerged at all times.
- Fill the hose by pumping it back and forth.
- Choose a drainage point that is lower in elevation than the region to be drained
- As soon as the hose is completely full and the alignment is perfect, the water will begin to flow again.
- After the siphon has been started, detach the tool and keep an eye on the liquid to see if it continues to move.
- Once the flow has been stopped, any residual liquid should be removed by reconnecting the hose and utilizing it as a pump to remove it. Place the hose into the water and pump it back and forth many times a minute. If this step becomes essential in order to send it further away, having a second hose on the exit end might be beneficial.
- The Slide N Pump is one of the most effective tools for doing this task.
- Not only will you be able to get things drained more quickly and easily, but you will also be able to pump when the conditions are not perfect or when there is still water left over after draining.
- All siphoning methods have a high likelihood of leaving liquid behind, and this is one of the only ways that contains a simple method for dealing with the liquid behind.
- It is this fool-proof equipment that will save you from having to dry up leftover puddles with a towel or from having to pull your hair out because you can’t get the flow to start.
- It may be used by anybody because it takes no special skills, practice, or physical strength to use.
- You may be able to save money by repurposing household items and putting in the time to learn a traditional skill, but you may also come to realize that your time is essential and that playing around is reserved for children.
- Besides allowing you to complete this task with ease, you may also use this instrument to bail a boat, empty a fish tank, clear a flooded ditch, fix a toilet, and a variety of other tasks.
- If you plan to use it just sometimes or for little chores, a tiny version is also available at a slightly lower price.
- In this section, you will learn about siphoning the easy way, using a hose, submerging a tube, and using your mouth.
- Slide N Pump
- Mini Version
Introduction: Build a Simple Water Level Control
- About 20 years ago, a buddy of mine came to me with the news that he needed to fix a customer’s water level control, which was constructed of electromechanical relays and was in bad shape.
- I agreed to help him.
- Upon further investigation, he discovered that the initial control relied on the conductivity of water.
- Because the customer did not want any form of float switch, he was forced to continue with the way the device was intended to function.
- He could start the pump whenever the water level fell below the ″low″ level electrode, and the pump would stop once the water level reached the ″high″ level electrode.
- However, as water was consumed and the level of the water level dropped just below the ″high,″ his circuit would re-start the pump, only for it to stop again as soon as the ″high″ electrode was touched by water for a second time, and so on.
- This procedure continued indefinitely until he turned off the electricity.
- When he turned on the water pump, it oscillated, which was not good for a 5 HP water pump or any pump for that matter.
- He was in desperate need of assistance.
- At this point, I asked him whether it wouldn’t be wonderful if, instead of dealing with relays, the control could be done electronically, which would be less expensive, more dependable, and have a longer life span.
- In order to recreate how I recalled this control operated, I created this instructable to serve as a guideline for those who want to construct a Club Jameco kit.
*** Disclaimer: This kit is intended to be used with equipment such as line-operated water pumps, motor starting relays, and/or contactors that run at lower control voltages than the kit itself.Line voltage is extremely hazardous and, if handled incorrectly, can result in damage or death.If you are unfamiliar with or have never dealt with line-operated equipment, it is recommended that you hire a certified electrician to complete the power wiring for you.This kit is intended to be instructional in nature, and it can be used with line-operated equipment if the National Electric Code criteria are followed during the installation process.***
Step 1: Proposed Control Slide Show
- The slide show that is provided with this instructable demonstrates the fundamental operational theory that underpins this control.
- In this case, it is assumed that the pump is a tiny plug-in model.
- There is a tiny 12V coil relay in this control, and the contacts have a rating of 10A at 120V.
- You may use whatever relay you like as long as it is compatible with the power supply of your water pump.
Step 2: Suggested Circuits for Bigger Pumps.
- Pumps that operate on 120 volts It is shown in the first schematic how to modify the water level control to work with larger pumps that are still rated at 120Vac.
- The Power Relay component number AD-PR40-1C-120A would need to be obtained from Automation Direct dot com.
- As an SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relay, it has just two sets of contacts and three terminals for a single line, which is why it is called a single pole, double throw relay.
- One set of contacts is designated as NO (Normally Open), while the other is designated as NC (Normally Closed), with one terminal shared by both sets of contacts.
- The Normally Open contact is depicted in the circuit.
- To purchase AD-PR40-1C-120A, please visit this page.
- Because this Power Relay coil is rated at 120Vac, our controller will be able to safely switch it on and off without causing damage.
- Its contacts have a current rating of 40A and a voltage rating of 300Vac.
- At this voltage, this is more than sufficient for pumps with capacities up to 1 horsepower.
- Pumps that operate at 240V To turn on 240Vac pumps, you would need a relay with two sets of contacts, such as the Automation Direct Part Number AD-PR40-2A-120A, which is available from Automation Direct.
- The coil of this relay is likewise rated at 120Vac, which means that our water level control can switch it on and off at the rated voltage.
The second diagram illustrates how a pump with a capacity of up to 2 horsepower may be properly connected for optimum functioning.To purchase AD-PR40-2A-120A, please visit this page.For the sake of safety, these relays should be housed in an enclosure.
Step 3: The Schematic
- The original version of this schematic was created using the CadSoft EAGLE PCB design program.
- Because it appeared to be difficult to understand, it has been revised to make it more readable.
- In order to power the on-board power supply, the terminals X1-1 and X1-2 are fed by a tiny step-down 120Vac:12Vac transformer rated at 250mA.
- The transformer provides the low voltage necessary for the control circuitry, as well as galvanic isolation between the control circuitry and the power supply.
- In order to restrict the number of parts to a bare minimum, a CMOS CD4001 circuit was employed, which requires just a single supply voltage for both the control circuitry and the relay.
- As well as everything that was presented in the slide presentation, this control circuit contains two LEDs: one green LED to indicate that the pump is working and one red LED that indicates that the control circuit has been placed in pump protect mode.
- Every time the relay is activated, the green LED illuminates.
- A current limiter resistor and an LED are connected in series with the relay’s coil to provide a safe operating environment.
- If the red LED is on, the pump and green LED will remain off even if the pump is required to be activated.
- Once the red LED has gone out, the pump should be activated, and the green LED may turn on if necessary.
- The circuit created by transistors Q1 and Q2 is intended to turn on the red LED (Pump Protect) anytime there is no water between the pump protect electrode and the ground electrode at the pump reservoir, which is the case while the pump is running.
Q1 activates as soon as the water level falls below the pump protect level.Q1’s base current is too low, less than 1 micro Ampere, and should be increased.Q1 and Q2 are linked up as a Darlington pair, which allows Q2 to switch on the red LED as necessary.When there is water between the pump protect and ground electrodes, Q1 is turned off, resulting in the red LED being turned off.The IC1-B gate functions in a similar way as an AND gate.To put it another way, anytime the main tank has to be filled and the pump protect is set to false, this gate activates transistor Q3, which then activates the water pump.
Step 4: The Printed Circuit Board
- As a pastime, I enjoy creating technological gadgets and devices.
- When I had to create one, I used general purpose prototype boards and the point-to-point soldering technique, which I learned from a book on electronics.
- I had never done a printed circuit board before, so I had to learn how to construct one from scratch.
- This is what I took out from this instructable: This phase includes the eagle files for the controller mentioned above.
- By the way, the PCB depicted in this tutorial is the very first PCB I ever designed and built.
- When it came time to etch, I picked a process that appeared to me to be ecologically friendly, as seen here: If creating your own PCB or doing point to point soldering on prototype boards isn’t your thing, you can get this water level control as a kit from Jameco, which contains everything you need except the transformer: http://www.jameco.com/water-level-control-kit.html.
- 5: List of Components
- Resistors3x have a resistance of 2.2M ohm.
- a quarter-watt (R1, R2, R3) 1x 4.7K ohm resistance a quarter-watt (R4) 1x – 120K ohm resistance a quarter-watt (R5) 2x 470 ohm ohm a half-watt (1/2W) (R6, R7) 1x – 15K ohm resistance a quarter-watt (R8) One capacitor each of 330uF and 63V.
- (C1) 1x – 220uF 25V (included) (C2) 1.
- 1uF 63V 1x – 1uF (C3) Semiconductors5x – 1N4004 – Semiconductors5x (D1, D2, D3, D4, D5) CD4001 (one copy) (IC1) 1x – 7812T 7812T 7812T (IC2) 1 × LED in the color green (LED1) 1 piece of red LED (LED2) 2N3904 (two of them) (Q1, Q3) 1 × 2N3906 (one pair) (Q2) Miscellaneous 1x Relay with a coil of 12V power (RLY1) Jameco Part Number: 1441864 x – 2 Terminal connectors are used (X1, X2, X3, X4) Jameco Part Number: 2094485* Included are 1x Printed Circuit Board Eagle files for use in Step 1.
- IC with 31x 14pins A socket1x 120V/12V @ 250mA transformer or AC-to-AC wall adapter (Jameco P/N:2076543*) is required for this socket.
- This part number was changed to match the pin spacing on the PCB.
- The previous P/N was 2094506
Step 6: Assembly
- Passive components, such as resistors and electrolytic capacitors, should be soldered in first, with special care paid to polarity markings.
- Following that, solder in power supply components such as diodes and a voltage regulator, paying close care to the polarity of the soldering iron as well.
- Use a clip-on heat sink between the solder junction and the body of the semiconductor, as illustrated in the illustrations.
- Install the 14-pin IC socket and solder it to the board with hot glue.
- Use only a little amount of solder on each pin to prevent neighboring pins from being shorted together by excess solder.
- Take note of the position of the notch on one of the edges.
- Connect the (+) output of the power supply to the anode of D1 and the GND output of the power supply to the cathode of D4 using an external +15V DC Power Supply (or two +9V batteries connected in series) and a couple of alligator clips.
- In order for the IC socket to function properly, the voltage between pins 14 (Vdd) and 7 (gnd) must be greater than or equal to +12V +/- 2 percent.
- If the voltage test is successful, the next step is to proceed to the following phase.
Step 7: Finish Assembly
- Installation of the 2N3904 NPN transistors into the Q1 and Q3 locations should be done with care to ensure that all terminals are inserted into their respective holes.
- As soon as you have soldered each lead with the appropriate amount of solder, attach the clip-on heat sink and wait at least 20 to 30 seconds before proceeding to the next lead of the same device.
- Carry out the same procedure using a 2N3906 PNP transistor in the Q2 position.
- Install the green LED into the LED1 location on the circuit board.
- The shorter lead is the cathode, and it should be connected to the lead that is labelled as the cathode lead on the printed circuit board.
- LEDs will not turn on if the polarity of the LEDs is flipped.
- Solder the anode to the lead after attaching the clip-on heat sink to it.
- Wait 20 to 30 seconds before soldering the cathode to the lead.
- Replace the red LED in the LED2 location in the same manner.
- The remaining terminal connections have two terminals on each of their sides.
- Install one connection into each of the X1 and X4 places on the PCB and solder them in place so that the terminals of the connectors are towards the edge of the PCB.
The terminal connections that are utilized have a sliding lip on one side and a groove on the other side of the connector.Take the remaining two connections and join them together by sliding one connector’s lip into the other connector’s groove so that they remain linked.Insert them into the X2 and X3 places on the PCB and solder them in place so that the terminals are also towards the edge of the PCB as shown.Install the relay in the RLY1 position and solder it to the board to hold it in place.The controller board is now built and ready to be tested.Insert CD4001 into the IC socket of the controller in order to make it available for testing.
Step 8: Final Testing
- Place the assembled controller board on an insulating surface, such as a file folder or notepad on your workbench, to avoid shorting the solder connections with any conductive material that may have remained on your work surface after you finished assembling it.
- Take a couple of one-foot pieces of 24AWG wire and take the ends off of them.
- Fill in the gaps between the terminals marked ″Ground″ and ″Pump level protection,″ leaving the other ends free and unconnected to one another.
- Repeat this process with the remaining wires until the circuit is complete.
- Using the same DC power source that was used in step 6, do this test.
- To power up the circuit, connect it in the same manner as before.
- At this stage, the CD4001 should already be put into its respective socket on the motherboard.
- When power is provided to the board, and assuming that everything has been correctly constructed, the red LED should illuminate and illuminate continuously.
- If you connect the two stripped ends of the wires that were previously joined, the red LED should go out and the green LED should turn on, and you should hear a single click from the relay when you do so.
- Separating the ends of the wires should cause the green LED to turn off and the red LED to turn on, with another click from the relay as it de-energizes the circuit.
- This demonstrates that the circuit is operational.
Fill a small shallow container halfway with water and set it aside for now.While the circuit is still activated, the red LED is on, and the two wires are not touching each other, dip both stripped ends into the container of water to remove any remaining corrosion.With a single click heard from the relay, the red LED should be turned off and the green LED should be turned on.The green LED should be turned off as soon as you remove the cables from the water, and the red LED should turn on as soon as you hear a click from the relay.If everything goes as planned, then everything is in functioning order.Test on the alternating current transformer: It is now necessary to verify that the controller will operate properly with 12VAC supplied by the 120V/12V 250mA transformer.
- Connect the transformer’s 12VAC leads to the connection labeled 12VAC IN on the back of the transformer.
- The primary of the transformer should be connected to a wall outlet through an extension cable, and the board should function in the same way as it did with the DC power supply.
- If this is the case, it is ready to go on to the next exam.
- Simulation of a water pump test: Get another pair of wires that are approximately the same length as the wires that are currently linked to the controller board, strip their ends, and place one into the ″Low level″ connector and the other into the ″High level″ terminal on the controller board.
The green LED should be illuminated since the pump protection and ground wires have previously been dipped into the water container.The ″low level″ wire end should remain submerged in the same water, and the green LED should remain illuminated.Next, submerge the ″high level″ wire end in the same water container, and the green LED should be turned off with a click heard from the relay.This replicates the situation where the pump fills the water tank.Remove the ″High level″ wire from the water container and nothing should happen if you want to simulate water consumption as the water level falls in the container.Removing the ″low level″ wire from the water container should cause the green LED to illuminate and the relay to power the water pump, causing the cycle to repeat itself.
Depending on how well the tests went, the controller can now be put to use in the real world.Before you begin, make sure you have a sufficient enclosure in place so that no hot voltages are exposed.The electrodes in the water tank can be arranged vertically in the tank from the top of the tank all the way down to the bottom of the tank.It is advised that stainless steel electrodes be used for longer life in order to avoid corrosion.
If the electrodes pass through the tank’s wall, make sure the tank is adequately sealed to prevent leakage.
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How to Siphon Water
- Article to be downloaded article to be downloaded Siphoning is an excellent method of transporting big volumes of water from one site to another by utilizing gravity.
- Siphoning can be used to empty a pool, clean a fish tank, or prepare rainwater bottles for storage.
- Working with fresh water, it is feasible to propel water via a siphon by applying pressure to the siphon with the back of your hand.
- If you are working with a single siphon tube, immersing the tube and emptying it is a convenient method of removing the tube.
- But if you are taking on a larger project, then a two-hose siphon system would be your best option.
- 1Put an empty bucket in a convenient location. To siphon water from one location into another, you’ll need to rely on gravity to do it. The item from which the water is emanating must be higher in elevation than its eventual destination. When siphoning water from a full bucket to an empty bucket, it’s best to set the destination bucket on a sturdy, lower surface to prevent spillage.
- 2 Place a siphon tube at the desired location. Insert the siphon tube’s other end into the empty destination bucket and close the lid. It should be nearly all the way to the bottom of the bucket in order to prevent it from coming out again. Then, insert the other end of the siphon into the bucket until it is completely full. A weight may be necessary to keep the hose’s end submerged in the water
- siphoning may be accomplished with nearly any form of hose or tube, though. However, it is really beneficial if the hose is transparent, since this allows you to observe the movement of the water.
- Promotional material
- 3 Lightly sucking on the tube’s end is recommended. Pick up the siphon tube’s end from the lower destination bucket or container and place it in your hand. If you raise your hand slightly over the container of water, it will assist you avoid getting water in your mouth. Then, using your lips, wrap the tube’s end around your mouth and sip it like a straw. Draw the water up to the rim of the container of water, but not all the way. Water will begin to flow down the tube as it reaches the arc of the tube’s arc. You should open your mouth and place the tube into the bucket. Alternatively, if your hose isn’t long enough so that you can both weigh it down in the water and hold it up over the container, you’ll most likely need to upgrade to a longer hose.
- Keep an eye on the placement of the water in the tube
- otherwise, you can wind up swallowing part of it when it comes out of the other end of the tube. This is one of the reasons why it is not a good idea to siphon other liquids, such as gasoline, through your mouth.
- 4Allow the water to drain into the bucket that is now empty.
- Then, with your lips closed, swiftly remove the end of the siphon tube that is halfway full and drop it into the bottom container.
- Through the siphon, water will begin to flow into the bucket and into the sink.
- Until the top container is completely empty, or until you remove the siphon end from either container, it will continue.
- 1 Place the tube in a container filled with water.
- Construct a circle out of the siphon tube and insert it into a container filled with water.
- Continue to work from one end of the tube until it is entirely coated, gently pushing it down as you go.
- Due to the air escaping from the interior of the tube, you will see air bubbles rise to the top of the water.
- This is normal.
- Continue to move gently to enable the air bubbles in the tube to escape as you immerse it.
- As soon as the bubbles cease to appear, the tube is filled with water and ready to be emptied.
- Be sure to shake the tube a little before drawing it out to ensure that all of the bubbles have been expelled from it.
- 2 Place your index finger over the end of the tube and squeeze.
- Now that the tube is completely filled with water, you’ll need to close off the end that you intend to remove out of the container using a rubber band.
- Create a barrier by folding or crimping the tube in on itself at the end of the tube.
- Afterwards, insert your index or middle finger or your thumb over the end of the tube, thereby preventing the flow of water out.
- If you don’t keep the tube completely submerged in water throughout this procedure, you’ll wind up with bubbles in it.
- 3Move the tube’s plugged end to the empty container and discard it. Pulling the clogged tube end out of the water slowly and gently is essential. Keep your finger on the end of the tube at all times. Also, be certain that the other, unblocked end remains securely submerged in the water. 4Remove the tube from the upper container and place it in the bottom, empty container. Pull your finger away from the tube’s end as far as it will go. Using your fingers, gently press the tube against the counter to prevent it from flapping around when the water begins to flow out. Keep an eye on the water as it flows from the higher container into this new one. To restart the water flow if it appears to have slowed, give the tube a tiny, fast shake. Advertisement
- 1 Place the first garden hose in the desired location.
- Using your hose, insert the other end into the bottom of a taller container from where the water will drain.
- In order to prevent the hose from moving, you may anchor it down with an item.
- However, be sure that the object does not obstruct the water flow.
- Then, insert the other end of the same hose into a container that will serve as the final destination for the siphoned water and close the lid.
- Use this procedure if you need to siphon water over a long distance or transport a huge volume of water.
- 2Connect the shut-off valve to the water supply. Attach the valve to the end of the hose that is at the bottom of the upper container with a screwdriver or similar tool. Inspect the valve and ensure that it is in the open position. A shut-off valve may be purchased at your local garden center.
- 3Connect a second hose to the faucet. Take the unused hose and screw one of its ends into the empty side of the shut-off valve. Repeat the same with the other end of the hose. Then, insert the other end of the second hose into a nearby faucet to complete the installation. Check to make sure that all of your connections are secure and tight.
- 4Fill the siphon hose halfway with water. Turn your faucet until it begins to pour water out through both hoses, then turn it off. Keep an eye out for when the first hose is completely full. After that, close the shutoff valve by turning it to the off position. After that, you may remove the second hose from both the faucet and the control valve.. This will leave you with a single hose that is full of water and is attached to both containers.
- 5Open the shut-off valve on the water supply. Water will begin to flow out of the hose and into its ultimate storage container as soon as the valve is turned to the open position. If you choose, you can hold the end of the handle somewhat erect to direct the flow of water if necessary. Advertisement
- Question Add a new question Question Is it possible to drain an aquarium with a siphon hose? Founder and CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc., Craig Morton is an aquarium specialist. Located in Huntington Beach, California, Craig Morton is the CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc., which serves the counties of Orange, Los Angeles, and the Inland Empire among other areas. As an aquarium professional with over 30 years of experience, Craig specializes in bespoke aquarium design as well as aquarium installation, servicing, and maintenance. Aquarium Specialist, Aquarium Doctor, Inc. Expert Response
- Question and Answer What is the most efficient method of siphoning water for an aquarium? Founder and CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc., Craig Morton is an aquarium specialist. Located in Huntington Beach, California, Craig Morton is the CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc., which serves the counties of Orange, Los Angeles, and the Inland Empire among other areas. As an aquarium professional with over 30 years of experience, Craig specializes in bespoke aquarium design as well as aquarium installation, servicing, and maintenance. Aquarium Specialist, Aquarium Doctor, Inc. Expert Response
- Question and Answer A length of polythene tubing is used to dump an aquarium into a low-level sink. What is the best way to accomplish this? Doug Ludemann is the owner and operator of Fish Geeks, LLC, a firm that provides aquarium services in the Minneapolis, Minnesota metropolitan area. Doug has over 20 years of experience in the aquarium and fish-care industries, including working as a professional aquarist at the Minnesota Zoo and the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago. In Ecology, Evolution, and Behavior, he obtained his Bachelor of Science degree from the University of Minnesota in 2007. Answer from a Professional Aquarist Expert By unlocking this expert answer, you are helping to support wikiHow. Clear away all of the substrate and detritus from one area of the tank, and then place a small stone or aquarium ornament in that corner to hold the tube in place. Start your siphon by submerging it in water, as described above. The speed of the tube will be determined by the circumference of the tube
- hence, a wider tube will go quicker than a smaller tube. A little tube, on the other hand, may be used to successfully empty a tank if you are patient. What is the best way to siphon water from a Jerry can that contains a liquid such as gasoline? Doug Ludemann is the owner and operator of Fish Geeks, LLC, a firm that provides aquarium services in the Minneapolis, Minnesota metropolitan area. Doug has over 20 years of experience in the aquarium and fish-care industries, including working as a professional aquarist at the Minnesota Zoo and the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago. In Ecology, Evolution, and Behavior, he obtained his Bachelor of Science degree from the University of Minnesota in 2007. Professional Aquarist Expert Answer By unlocking this expert answer, you can help wikiHow continue to grow. Get a tube that is long enough for you to be able to construct a loop with it while also being long enough for you to be able to fit the ends of the tube into the two different containers. Make a loop with the tube directly above the Jerry can and fasten it with the tube. Pulling the water into the loop is accomplished by sucking it with your mouth. In order to keep the liquid from getting into your mouth, you should use a loop. Once the water is in the loop, the process is complete. Using your finger, gently lift the end of the tube that is already in your mouth and transfer it to the empty container. This should signal the start of the siphon.
- Question What happens if the end of the siphon hose is completely immersed in the water contained within the bottom bucket of the siphon? Doug Ludemann is the owner and operator of Fish Geeks, LLC, a firm that provides aquarium services in the Minneapolis, Minnesota metropolitan area. Doug has over 20 years of experience in the aquarium and fish-care industries, including working as a professional aquarist at the Minnesota Zoo and the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago. In Ecology, Evolution, and Behavior, he obtained his Bachelor of Science degree from the University of Minnesota in 2007. Question answered by a professional aquarist expert
- What is the best way to siphon water out of a garden hose? Doug Ludemann is the owner and operator of Fish Geeks, LLC, a firm that provides aquarium services in the Minneapolis, Minnesota metropolitan area. Doug has over 20 years of experience in the aquarium and fish-care industries, including working as a professional aquarist at the Minnesota Zoo and the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago. In Ecology, Evolution, and Behavior, he obtained his Bachelor of Science degree from the University of Minnesota in 2007. Professional Aquarist Expert Answer By unlocking this expert answer, you can help wikiHow continue to grow. You can utilize any of the approaches provided in the preceding article to accomplish your goal. It is possible to utilize the oral approach if you don’t mind having some of the stuff in your mouth. If you’re siphoning a chemical that you don’t want to get into your mouth, it may be advisable to utilize the two-hose approach instead.
- Question In order to siphon water from a pond, what is the most effective method? Any of the approaches described in the article would be effective as long as the outlet point is lower than the intake (pond) end of the tube. A garden hose (or anything comparable in breadth) will be more appropriate than small plastic tubing because you’ll be dealing with a higher amount of water! If the tube is long (and wide), it will require a lot of lung effort to get suction started by sucking on it
- thus, the garden hose with a shut-off valve is the ideal solution in this situation. In the event that time is critical, or if you need the water to drain at a place higher than the pond’s level, consider renting an electric or diesel-powered water pump, similar to the type you would use to pump water out of a flooded basement. I’ve attempted to siphon water by sucking on it. It is functional, however the flow rate is quite sluggish. Is there a way to make things go more quickly? Is it necessary for me to suck harder? Alternatively, should I use a longer hose? The greater the width of the hose, the greater the speed of the flow, since more water may escape. Make sure there are no leaks or kinks in your irrigation hose, since these can cause the water to run more slowly than it should. Because gravity is the driving force behind siphoning, setting the initial container even higher than the destination container will further accelerate the flow of water. I need to take a huge pail of water outdoors and out to the street to be drained. What can I do to help? Insert one end of a hose pipe into the bucket and tighten it so that it does not come out of the bucket. Take the other end to the street and suck on it with your mouth as you walk. Because you’re working with a hose that’s long enough to stretch from the bucket to the street, this will almost certainly demand a lot of effort. Also, you can receive some water in your mouth. Once the tube has been used, how can I get the interior of the tube to dry? Start the vacuum cleaner and close the entry down to the size of the tube, with one end inserted into the vacuum’s intake and the other exposed to the air on the opposite side of the tube. The air will be drawn into the tube through the end that is exposed to the atmosphere, causing the water contained within the tube to dry. Another option is to hang the tube up in the open air until it is completely dry, with both ends facing downward.
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Things You’ll Need
- A water container
- a plastic tube
- two outdoor hoses
- Valve for shutting down
- an object to which the garden hose can be attached
- You may entirely control the siphon hose if you install a shutdown valve inline at the crest of the tube, as well as a check valve at the outlet end. The siphon hose will remain primed even if the valve is turned off.
- The length of time it takes to siphon the water will be determined by the size of your hose. Larger pipes will perform their functions more quickly than smaller ones. Additional problems arise when smaller lines get choked with dirt or trash.
- If you are siphoning as part of a