What Size Gas Line Is Needed For Tankless Water Heater?

Gas line size for tankless water heater?

It’s possible that no one is getting it right, but some people are getting it horribly wrong.Despite the fact that it draws in 180,000 BTU, it is vulnerable to pressure changes caused by other devices turning on and off on the same branch.Best case scenario, it would be equipped with its own ″home run″ line that tees off very close to the regulator/meter, and it would have enough BTU capacity to last the length of the run (which includes adding a ″equivalent length″ of approximately 1.5 feet for every 90 degree fitting (tee or ell) along its path): The combined output of a gas dryer and cooktop is roughly 50-70,000 BTU/hr, the water heater is 180,000 BTU/hr, so you’ll need a least of 250K of capacity on a shared line, and any tees off to the other load should be placed within a couple of feet of the meter/regulator.The half-inch line will not cut it even at a distance of 2′ from the regulator, despite the fact that the connection to the unit is half-inch in diameter.There’s no way in hell 3/4 ″Even if it is a non-shared home-run to the meter, it will be cut unless the hot water heater is really close to the voltage regulator.

Even 1 is a good start ″If it is shared by other appliances and there is more than 20 equivalent feet of gas line between the appliance and the regulator, it may not cut it.Even though most gas line setups require for 1-1/4″ gas lines, it’s sometimes feasible to get by with a 1″ line in a non-branched home-run installation.Although the quotation for 1″ is the most accurate, you should measure it yourself and, if it’s even somewhat near, have them re-price it for 1-1/4″ plumbed as a home run so you won’t have to worry about it malfunctioning when the furnace goes on while you’re in the shower.Also, pay attention to the BTU values of the heater, dryer, and stovetop.Add it all up, including the 180K for the Navien, then compare it to the BTU rating of the meter and regulator to get an idea of how much energy is being wasted.In the event that you have an absurdly large furnace (which is extremely frequent), there’s a good probability that you’ll be operating at or over the capacity of the regulator, which might result in some strange behavior if everything is going at once.

Natural Gas Pipes – Low Pressure Capacities vs. Size

The tables below can be used to determine the size of natural gas pipelines.

Steel Pipe – Schedule 40

• Natural Gas – Pipe Sizing – Metric Values

Capacity of Pipe (MBH ≈ CFH)
Pipe Size (in)	Pipe Length (ft)
Nominal	Inside diameter	10	20	40	80	150	300
1/2	0.622	120	85	60	42	31	22
3/4	0.824	272	192	136	96	70	50
1	1.049	547	387	273	193	141	100
1 1/4	1.380	1200	849	600	424	310	219
1 1/2	1.610	1860	1316	930	658	480	340
2	2.067	3759	2658	1880	1330	971	686
2 1/2	2.469	6169	4362	3084	2189	1593	1126
3	3.068	11225	7938	5613	3969	2898	2049
4	4.026	23479	16602	11740	8301	6062	4287
5	5.047	42945	30367	21473	15183	11088	7841
6	6.065	69671	49265	34836	24632	17989	12720
8	7.981	141832	100290	70916	50145	36621	25895

• Download Natural Gas Pipe Capacity Chart as pdf-file

• Pressurized air pressure less than 1 1/2 psig
• fittings factor is commonly used. One MBH is equal to 1000 BTUs per hour (0.29 kW = 0.29 kJ/s)
• natural gas has an energy content of 1000 BTUs per cubic foot (37.26 MJ/m3)
• steel pipes schedule 40
• pressure drop 0.5 inches water column
• specific gravity of natural gas 0.6
• steel pipes schedule 40

• Natural gas has a notional BTU/ft3 that ranges from around 900 to 1100 BTU/ft3. In general, it is usual to set 1 Cubic Foot (ft3, CF) = about 1000 BTUs
• 1 Cubic Foot per Hour (CFH) = 1 MBH (MBH is thousands of BTUs per hour)
• and 1 Cubic Foot per Hour (CFH) = 1 MBH (MBH is thousands of BTUs per hour).

Related Mobile Apps from The Engineering ToolBox

• Natural Gas Pipe Line Calculator App

Download free applications for mobile devices that may be used offline.

Copper Tubing – type K

Capacity of Pipe (MBH ≈ CFH)
Pipe Size (in)	Pipe Length (ft)
Nominal	Outside Diameter	Inside Diameter	10	20	40	80
1/4	3/8	0.305	15	10	7	5
3/8	1/2	0.402	33	24	17	12
1/2	5/8	0.527	74	52	37	26
5/8	3/4	0.652	138	97	69	49
3/4	7/8	0.745	203	143	101	72
1	1 1/8	0.995	469	332	235	166
1 1/4	1 3/8	1.245	894	632	447	316

• Pressurized air pressure less than 1 1/2 psig
• fittings factor is commonly used. 0.5 inches water column pressure drop
• specific gravity of natural gas 0.6
• energy content of natural gas 1000 Btu/ft3 (37.26 MJ/m3)
• one MBH is equal to 1000 BTU’s per hour
• copper tubing type K
• 1.5 – equivalent pipe length in table above Equals pipe length plus 50 percent

Copper Tubing – type L

Capacity of Pipe (MBH ≈ CFH)
Pipe Size (in)	Pipe Length (ft)
Nominal	Outside Diameter	Inside Diameter	10	20	40	80
1/4	3/8	0.315	16	11	8	6
3/8	1/2	0.430	41	29	20	14
1/2	5/8	0.545	81	58	41	29
5/8	3/4	0.666	146	103	73	52
3/4	7/8	0.785	236	167	118	84
1	1 1/8	1.025	511	362	256	181
1 1/4	1 3/8	1.265	936	662	468	331

• Pressurized air pressure less than 1 1/2 psig
• fittings factor is frequently used. 1.5 – equivalent pipe length in table above Equals pipe length plus 50%
• pressure drop 0.5 inches water column
• specific gravity of natural gas 0.6
• energy content in natural gas 1000 Btu/ft3 (37.26 MJ/m3)
• one MBH is equal to 1000 BTUs per hour
• copper tubing type K

• A BTU per hour is equal to 0.293 watts
• a pound is equal to 0.4536 kilograms
• a foot is equal to 0.3048 meters
• 1 in water is equal to 248.8 N/m2 (Pa) = 0.0361 lb/in2 (psi) = 25.4 kg/m2 = 0.0739 in mercury
• 1 lb/in2 (psi) is equal to 6,894.8 Pa (N/m2)
• 1

Everything You Need to Know about Gas Piping

Many homes in the northern portion of the country will have to start using their heating systems around the beginning of October as a result of the changing seasons.Natural gas is one of the least expensive and most efficient fuels for a furnace or boiler, and it is also environmentally friendly.Along with its benefits, there are safety considerations and duties for property owners to be aware of.As a home inspector, it is your responsibility to assist in the identification of defects that may jeopardize the safety of inhabitants in natural gas-powered houses.We’ll go over some of the fundamentals of examining gas pipe in this section.

Risers, supply, branch, and drop lines are all examples of risers.The piping that runs through the inside of the home is referred to as the gas supply line or the building line.Individual appliances are served by branch lines.Upon reaching the end of the branch line, there is a drop line, which is a vertical pipe that descends to the appliance from an overhead branch line.This drop line is referred to as a riser if it is used to transport gas from a branch line below the appliance up to the appliance.A sediment trap, a dirt pocket, or a drip leg are all terms used to describe the same thing.

At the appliance connection point, there is typically a sediment trap or dirt pocket, which is sometimes referred to as a drip leg and is comprised of a nipple and a cap, as well as a sediment trap or dirt pocket.Pipe extensions are typically at least 3 inches in length and are meant to capture any water or foreign material that may be present in the gas before the substance comes into or into contact with the appliance’s internal components.A gravity system, with solids and liquids dropping into a pocket, is all that is required in this case.

The homeowner is responsible for the pipe downstream of the meter.The obligation for the pipework downstream of the gas meter is often shared by the homeowner.The pipelines leading up to and including the gas meter, as well as the meter itself, are typically the responsibility of the gas company.Materials for piping Steel, copper, and brass are all metals.

Black steel is the most often used material for gas pipe.Galvanized steel, copper, brass, and CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) are other options that can be utilized in some situations, however copper is particularly prohibited by several public utilities.Copper is widely used in a variety of other applications.You should be aware of what is considered appropriate in your community.Steel pipe is often black in color, with malleable iron or steel fittings attached to it.

In some instances, galvanized steel is also utilized in place of stainless steel.Connectors Connectors with a bending radius: Appliances can be connected to the gas pipe using flexible connections, which are approved.A shut-off valve must be installed at the point where the flexible piping meets the stiff pipe.This valve has to be located in the same room as the appliance in order to function properly.Long and easily accessible: three or six feet in length.

The flexible connections are not permitted to pass through walls, floors, or ceilings, nor are they permitted to be disguised.With the exception of gas stoves and laundry dryers, the flexible connection length is typically restricted to three feet.Generally speaking, 6 feet is the maximum distance allowed for these equipment.Using nipples to splice or join connections is frequently against the rules.In certain areas, flexible connections are only permitted for gas stoves, dryers, outdoor grills, and other semi-portable appliances and are not permitted for other equipment.Flexible connections on gas furnaces, water heaters, space heaters, and other similar appliances may not be approved.

• If you live in an earthquake-prone location, flexible connections are more likely to be used on all of your appliances since they give some level of protection against gas line leakage or breakage during an earthquake.
• Check your local gas code to find out what is and isn’t permitted in your region of residence.
• Thread seal tape is a type of tape that is used to seal threads.
• Thread seal tape (commonly incorrectly referred to as Teflon® tape) that is white in color is not approved as a connecting compound for steel gas pipes due to its corrosive nature.
• Cutting oils that linger on the pipe threads from the manufacturing process may interfere with the tape’s ability to seal.

It is permissible to use yellow thread seal tape in specific regions.Pipe dope is recommended and may be the only substance permitted.In this case, you should verify with the gas utility.Inquire as to whether any pipe installations including thread seal tape of any color should be reported as a defect.

1. No, not in the ducts.
2. It is not possible to run gas pipes through chimneys or duct systems.
3. Valve for turning off the water Despite the fact that there are occasional exceptions, most appliances should have a shut-off valve nearby.
4. Gas pipework that is bonded When it comes to electrical service grounding, gas pipe is generally not permitted by most authorities.

1. Bonding the gas pipe to the electrical grounding system, on the other hand, is a requirement in many countries, including the United States.
2. This is typically accomplished by connecting the gas pipe to the supply water piping (provided it is grounded), which is located frequently near the water heater.
3. It is important to maintain the gas piping at zero electrical potential in order to avoid an electrical potential accumulation that might result in arcing, which could ignite gas.

This can be accomplished by attaching the gas piping to the grounding system.The following issues are frequently encountered in gas piping:

1. Leaks, inappropriate materials, and insufficient assistance are all possible.
2. Rusting
3. lack of drip leg
4. absence of a shut-off valve
5. improper connections
6. and
7. Plastic pipe that has been exposed above ground level
9. The installation of piping in chimneys or duct systems
11. Copper tubing that has not been correctly labeled

All of these issues have the potential to result in gas leaks and explosions, among other things.As we’ve stated, there are several fundamentals of gas pipe that every home inspector should be familiar with in order to spot potentially dangerous circumstances in the house.In addition, we’ve compiled a list of ten situations that are common when there are issues with gas pipe.The ASHI@Home training program contains a thorough explanation of the reasons, inspection tactics, and ramifications of the findings.The Carson Dunlop Home Inspection Training Program was founded by Carson Dunlop.

Carson Dunlop’s home inspection training program is the only accredited institution devoted just to house inspection training, and it is designed to ensure that you achieve your goals.Learn more about Carson Dunlop’s home inspection training program by visiting their website.Become a police officer.

Document Addresses Connecting Plastic Pipe to Tankless Water Heaters

CPVC, PE-RT, PEX, and PP plastic pipe materials are approved for direct connection to tankless water heaters, according to a recent guideline released by the Plastics Pipe Institute, Inc.(PPI).PPI Recommendation H Direct Connection of Plastic Piping Materials to Tankless Water Heaters for Domestic (i.e.residential) Applications, which is available on the company’s website, provides clear guidance on the subject of direct connection of plastic piping materials to tankless water heaters for domestic (i.e.residential) applications.

The Plastic Pipe Institute (PPI) is the largest trade group for the plastic pipe industry.In response to questions from plumbers and builders, PPI Recommendation H was developed to address the issue of whether it is appropriate for plastic pressure pipe materials to connect directly to the cold-water inlet and hot-water outlet of domestic tankless water heaters without the use of metallic flex connectors.This type of direct connection, according to our study, is typically permissible,″ said Lance MacNevin, Peng., director of engineering for PPI’s Building & Construction Division.He stated, ″To assist in answering this question, PPI and our members conducted research into Canadian and United States model plumbing codes, evaluated published material on dozens of tankless water heaters, and validated the suggestions of plastic pipe system manufacturers.″ Given the well-documented high-temperature capabilities of certain pipe materials, as well as the reasonably constant water temperature management provided by current tankless water heaters, there is no technical justification for prohibiting direct connections.Of course, installers must adhere to all applicable local codes as well as the manufacturer’s installation instructions.″ ″According to Recommendation H: Piping systems constructed of the materials CPVC, PE-RT, PEX, and PP, which have a pressure rating of 100 psi at 180°F (690 kPa at 82°C), and which are intended and certified for hot and cold potable water distribution systems in accordance with industry standards and relevant codes, may be connected directly to tankless water heaters intended for domestic (i.e.

residential) applications, unless prohibited by local According to PPI President David Fink, ″An query from a big building firm inspired us to conduct study on this subject.″ Because of the speed with which Recommendation H was developed, it illustrates that PPI members are capable of working together and responding swiftly to queries from the industry concerning the ethical use of plastic pipe materials.″ Recommendation H, which can be found on PPI’s website directly at recommendation-h-direct-connection-tankless, is one of several PPI documents related to the design and installation of pressure pipe materials for plumbing and mechanical applications that are all made available as a service to the industry.On the PPI website, under the heading ″Building & Construction,″ you may find further information on the company’s Building & Construction Division.

Gas Supply Piping Tips for Plumbing Contractors

The gas pipe system has a direct impact on the operation and performance of gas-powered appliances.A large number of unplanned shutdowns can be ascribed to plumbing issues that include natural gas.We will go through the fundamentals of gas pipeline and identify some of the most typical challenges that arise in the field.SIZING OF GAS PIPE Gas pipe must be installed appropriately in order for each appliance to operate effectively and most efficiently.When designing a gas pipe system, it is critical to sketch it out on paper and carefully consider its layout.

There is a limit to how much gas (or water) can flow through a particular pipe size, therefore constraints will present themselves as a lack of pressure or volume in the system.The process of sizing a gas line is not complicated.It is more convenient to begin with the most recent appliance and work your way back to the meter and/or regulator in this manner.The main pipe size will rise when each branch is added, and the main pipe size will increase again as each additional branch is added.In order to handle the Btu load of the connected appliance, each branch must be of the right size.It is necessary to design a branch such that it can handle the overall Btu load if it will serve more than one appliance.

Eventually, you will reach the meter or regulator, at which point the main pipe will get larger in order to meet the entire Bty load of the system.The National Fuel Gas Code/ANSI Z223.1/NFPA54 gas size charts that are displayed are taken from that code.In accordance with the length of piping, they show thousands of Btus that may flow via a certain pipe size.

Fittings must be included in the calculation in order to be comprehensive.Each fitting has an equivalent length to straight pipe, and these must be numbered and added to the total length of straight pipe to arrive at the overall length.DIFFICULTIES WITH PIPING The pipe is too tiny to transport the entire Btu input.A shortage of gas volume can be caused by size reductions or fitting limits, whereas an unsatisfactory gas pressure might be caused by fitting restrictions.

This is frequent on the branches of pipe systems.It is necessary to analyze and calculate the length of the branch as well as the length of the fittings.Flexible connections with a smaller footprint Flexible connectors are often smaller in size than the connection they are used to make.A 34′′ flex connection will often be made of 12′′ or 5/8′′ corrugated stainless steel tubing.It is necessary to check the length and Btu capacity of flexible connections since they are labeled.

Ball valves with a small or decreased port size Full-port valves should always be used to avoid any reduction in volume or pressure.A large number of the valves I encounter in the field are small-port or reduced-port in size.These valves do cause problems, and they have the potential to produce flame failures.The proximity of the gas regulator to the heater is an issue.When a regulator is situated too close to the heater, it will not always be able to respond.

When it is put too close to the wall, it may not be able to open fully and regulate correctly.Both the first and second stage regulators are located too close to one another.If the fist and second stage regulators are situated too near to each other, they might ″battle″ with each other and cause damage.To allow the first stage regulator to open and work correctly, a length of pipe is required, and the same is true for the second stage regulator.Regulators with a lock-up design It is possible that lock-up type regulators will require a pressure release reset in order to function properly.They are capable of ″locking up″ and ceasing to operate.

• In order for the regulator to reseat or reset, the gas pressure must be removed from the regulator inlet.
• Ventilation limiters Ball-check vent limiters must be put in the upright position with the regulator in the horizontal position and the ball-check vent limiter in the horizontal position, respectively.
• If the ball-check is put in a different location, it may become stuck.
• Upgrades that do not need a tank Tankless retrofits nearly invariably necessitate an increase in the size of the gas pipe.
• It takes around 40,000 Btu per hour to heat a conventional 40-gallon gas tank-type heater, according to the manufacturer.

It is estimated that the conventional tankless heaters may produce 199,000 Btu per hour!If a tankless heater is being installed, it is necessary to examine the branch and main lines.The branch must be capable of transporting the enhanced tankless Btu capacity.The gas main line must be capable of carrying the additional and total Btus that have been installed.

1. Burners that can be modulated Heaters and boilers can function at lower input levels thanks to modulation.
2. Tankless heaters are an excellent example of this type of technology.
3. In response to the increase in flow, the burner will ramp up and require more gas in order to function, eventually reaching its maximum input.
4. Tankless heaters may function on a low fire with a gas line that is inadequate, but as the input demand grows, the heater will face flame failure difficulties, which will cause the heater to fail.

1. Measuring the amount of gas Always check gas pressures with a slack-tube manometer to ensure that they are within acceptable limits.
2. Without a slack-tube manometer, it is impossible to adequately troubleshoot a gas problem.
3. They are the only gadget that has been certified for use in a pressure-drop test, and they always provide a correct result.

A gauge-type manometer, on the other hand, will provide accurate readings.You should avoid using a digital manometer while troubleshooting problems with gas volume or pressure.They can be unpredictable, requiring calibration when subjected to jumping pressures.A digital manometer is better suited for measuring minute pressures or differentials, as opposed to larger ones.

• Gas input pressures must be measured both with the unit turned off and with the unit turned on to ensure that there is no significant reduction in pressure when the burner is turned on.
• The pressures in the gas manifold must be monitored while the unit is running or immediately after it starts running.
• Drop in atmospheric pressure A pressure decrease of 12′′ WC is considered acceptable; any pressure drop more than this shows that there is a problem with the gas supply that must be identified and remedied.

1. There will be a greater pressure drop with certain regulators, but the pressure will drop when the regulator opens and then remain constant at the specified pressure.
2. Appliances that operate with the assistance of a fan Many fan-assisted heaters will go out on flame failure if the water level drops by more than 1 inch.
3. Because many contemporary appliances are powered by a variable frequency drive (VFD), lowering gas pressures might have an impact on the ignition or burner performance, resulting in flame failures.

1. Fan-assisted appliances also require a small amount of gas pressure, which must be maintained at all times in order to function properly.
2. It is possible that the heater will encounter nuisance flame failure shutdowns if the pressure falls below the acceptable minimum.
3. Appliances for the atmosphere Low gas pressure or volume will not affect the operation of atmospheric heaters.
4. In the case of low pressure or volume, they are more ″forgiving.″ They are reliant on gravity make-up air, and the open burner can continue to operate with a decreased amount of fuel.

If the gas supply is inadequately sized, this might be a significant problem.With a smaller Btu input and a slower recovery rate, the heater will function more efficiently.It is possible that the lower Btu input will result in premature heater failure and operational concerns such as condensation if the heater is undersized or in high demand.Reduced gas supply equals reduced Btu intake, which results in less hot water gallons recovered.SUMMARY A disruption in the delivery of natural gas can signal a variety of problems.

It might be time-consuming to try to figure out what is causing the problem in the first place.It may be necessary to draw out the pipes and do a calcu- lation before proceeding.It might be easy to overlook anything as little as a fitting reduction, or it can be difficult to locate something as complex as a reduced-port ball valve.

I usually state that the slack-tube manometer never lies and that it is capable of resolving any ambiguity.Even though we’ve covered a number of the most prevalent problems here, there are plenty more to be encountered!

Install gas appliances correctly

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family Are you apprehensive about connecting a gas appliance? You certainly should be! A gas leak in your house has the potential to be fatal. The following diagram shows how to properly connect a range and a water heater to a gas line. Time A busy day of work Complexity Cost for a beginner ranges from $51 to $100.

How to hook up a new gas stove and range

Photo 1: Pull out the range

Pull the range out of the oven and turn off the gas valve (see also Photo 2).When the lever is positioned at a straight angle to the pipe, the gas is turned off.This shutdown may be positioned behind the range or in the basement right below it, depending on the manufacturer.A cutoff is necessary in the line leading to the range, and one should be installed if one does not already exist.Do not forget about maintenance; learn how to clean a stove top the proper manner.

Photo 2: Wrap the pipe threads

Wrap two layers of Teflon pipe-joint tape over the threads in the same direction as the fitting is screwed into the pipe joint (clockwise).Yellow Teflon tape is heavier than white Teflon tape and is intended for use with gas connections.Because connections with 1/2-in.end fittings at both ends are not always easily accessible, the 1/2-in.x 3/4-in.

coupling fits the 3/4-in.end connector fitting (Photo 3), which is 3/4-in.in diameter.

Photo 3: Screw the connector to the gas line

End connector fittings should be removed and wrapped with Teflon tape before being screwed to the gas line.This end fitting is available in both male and female versions.Always make use of both of the detachable end fittings if you have them.NEVER attach the connection nuts on the ends of the corrugated tube to a black gas fitting or pipe with the connector nuts in place.This would almost certainly result in a leak.

Photo 4: Use a street elbow

In the range gas port, insert a 1/2-in. x 1/2-in. street elbow (male threads on one end, female threads on the other) and tighten it down. Then screw the other end of the connection into the street elbow with a wrench. Apply Teflon tape to the inside of each fitting. Take care not to overtighten the screws, as this might cause excessive stress on the gas port fitting on the range.

Photo 5: Tighten the nuts

Connect the connector nuts to the two end connector fittings and tighten them.Holding the tube straight against the fitting while tightening the bolts is recommended.Teflon tape should not be used on these threads.In order for the end fittings to produce a tight seal against the ends of the corrugated tube, the beveled edges of the fittings must be used.The use of tape may cause this seal to become compromised.

Photo 6: Check for leaks

• Open and ignite the range burners for around a minute to force air out of the gas line. Turn on the gas cock (vertical position) to begin cooking. Then use a gas leak detector to check all of the connections you’ve made (sold at home centers). This can also be accomplished with warm, thick soapy water. A leak will be indicated by the presence of bubbles surrounding a joint. Installing a gas range or water heater is a reasonably straightforward project that requires only a few basic equipment and supplies that are easily available. Furthermore, if you use the proper supplies and properly follow the directions, you can complete the work without risking your safety. A professional may charge anywhere from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars for a hook-up. In this post, we’ll teach you how to make two fundamental types of gas connections: hooking up a gas range with a flexible, corrugated connector (which is comparable to a gas clothes dryer)
• and connecting a water heater with threaded black steel gas pipe (which is similar to a clothes dryer). Home shops and hardware stores with a good selection of flexible corrugated gas connections and gas pipe and fittings (in black) are good places to start your search. Flexible connections made of stainless steel or coated brass are the only types of flexible connectors available today, and they are the only kind that may be used safely and legally. Corrugated connectors constructed of uncoated brass or other metal, such as those supplied before the 1980s, have been shown to be dangerous in some instances. Do you have one in your home? It must be replaced immediately! The purchase of the proper connection is the first and most critical step in ensuring a safe installation. Here’s what you should be looking for: Purchase a connection that is clearly labeled with the name of the appliance you are connecting—either ″range″ or ″dryer.″ When it comes to range connectors, the inside diameter of the corrugated tube is usually 1/2 inch (inside diameter), while the inside diameter of a dryer connector is usually 3/8 inch (inside diameter). They are not usually indicated on the packaging, however they will be indicated for either the stove or the dryer.
• Purchase a connection that is pre-packaged with the end connector fittings that you will require (see Photo 3). As a general rule, the gas line entering into your kitchen will be 1/2-in. black threaded pipe, and the connection to the stove will be a 1/2-in. fitting, either male (external threads) or female (internal threads). Instead of a black gas pipe fitting on the line to accommodate the end connector fitting, use a connector package with end fittings that match what you need for the gas line if you can’t locate what you’re looking for. We show a 1/2-in. x 3/4-in. coupling on the gas line in Photos 2 and 3 to accept the 3/4-in. end connector fitting in the next two photos, as an example. (See How to Connect Gas Pipe Lines for a list of additional possible connections as well as information on connecting to soft copper supply lines).
• Make use of a connector that is sufficiently lengthy so that you will have sufficient space to operate between the stove and the wall. They are available in a variety of lengths ranging from 24 in. to 60 in.
• Don’t reuse a flexible connector
• if you purchase a new appliance, you should also purchase a new flexible connector. Maintain strict adherence to the installation instructions for the connection. Our Photos 1 through 5 provide a realistic representation of how this is accomplished. Here are some extra pointers to consider:
• Take care not to kink or force the corrugated connection into abrupt bends, since this might result in a break down the road.
• Ensure that your work is always free of leaks (Photo 6). Gas leak detectors are available for purchase at home improvement shops, hardware stores, and online.
• The inspection of a range hookup is not usually needed, but we strongly recommend that you contact your local gas company or plumbing inspector to have your work checked.

Hook up a gas water heater

Photo 1: Shut off the gas

Close the gas cock on the line that leads to the water heater and turn it off. It is customary to turn one-quarter of the way. When the lever is parallel to the pipe, the gas is turned on; when the lever is at a right angle to the pipe, the gas is turned off. It is necessary to have a gas cutoff in the line; if you do not already have one, you will need to build one.

Photo 2: Unscrew the union

As indicated above and in Photos 4 and 5, disconnect the gas line at the union, which should be found somewhere below the gas cock. One wrench should be used to hold the top half of the union in place while the other wrench is used to unscrew the coupling piece.

Photo 3: Unscrew the tee

It is necessary to disassemble the two small vertical pieces of pipe that are located above and below the tee fitting.Disconnect the tee from the heater’s gas port, as well as the small horizontal piece of pipe that runs to the heater’s gas port.Maintain the heater’s gas port and gas valve using a second ″hold-back″ wrench, as illustrated here and in Photo 4.Failure to do so will result in damage to the heater.The ″drip leg″ and cap seen here are essential to prevent debris from blocking the gas valve and causing it to malfunction.

Photo 4: Reassemble the gas line

Reassemble the gas line in the same manner in which it was originally installed.If the gas port on your new heater is located in a different horizontal location than the one on your old heater, you will need to adjust the length of the pipe that is being put here in order to match the tee with the gas line.If the new heater’s gas port is located in a different vertical location than the old one, you will need to adjust the length of the pipe above the tee to compensate.Measure the distance and leave an additional 1/2 inch at either end to accommodate the threads that will be screwed in.

Photo 5: Reassemble the union

• Reconnect the strands of the connection. Consider the copper seal that creates the gas-tight seal
• make certain that the pipe alignment is straight so that the two pieces of the seal may fit together properly. (See illustration) Then, as seen in Photo 2, strengthen the union. Installation of the drip leg and cap is seen in Photo 3. Look for any leaks. The connection between a gas water heater and a rigid 1/2-inch diameter black gas pipe is common practice. In certain regions, a flexible stainless steel connection, similar to a range hook-up, is permissible
• nevertheless, you should first verify with local plumbing inspector or gas company to ensure that it is okay. Because the gas line for a water heater is exposed and hence more susceptible to movement and damage, rigid pipe is preferred. In many situations, the gas port on your new water heater will be located in the same area as the gas port on your old water heater in terms of distance from your gas line. This simplifies the connection process: Simply remove the small sections of pipe and fittings as illustrated in Photos 2 and 3, clean the threads, reapply new Teflon tape to the threads, and reattach the complete assembly in the same manner as it was before the cleaning process began. You may need to adjust the length of one or potentially two small sections of pipe if the heater’s gas port is located in a different place from that seen in Photo 4. The shorter lengths of black pipe, known as nipples, are available at most home stores in 1/2-inch increments for the longer lengths. Some general guidelines are as follows: Rather than using white Teflon tape, which is thinner, use yellow Teflon tape, which is meant for threaded gas connections.
• Check for leaks in all of your joints.
• A permit and inspection are necessary for a water heater hookup in the majority of places, although not all of them. However, in either situation, we highly advise you to contact your local gas company or plumbing inspector to have your work checked.

Required Tools for this Project

Make a list of all of the equipment you’ll need for this DIY project before you begin; you’ll save both time and frustration this way.

Required Materials for this Project

Preparing all of your stuff ahead of time can save you time and money on last-minute buying visits. Here’s a list of things to do.

Proper Line Sizing – Tarantin Industries

When installing a gas line, it is critical to ensure that the line is the proper size for the purpose.When sizing gas pipe systems, a number of elements must be taken into consideration.A sufficient amount of gas must be supplied through the piping in order for all appliances to work at the same time.You must sum up the BTUs of all of the appliances in your system and take into consideration the sort of metal the pipe is composed of in order to figure this out.As you can see in the charts below, there is a chart for copper tubing size and a chart for iron pipe size, both of which provide the BTU ratings for the length and diameter of the line, respectively.

You should also take into account the possibility that the consumer would want to add appliances at a later time.In line with the tables in the Standard Gas Code or other technical procedures recognized by the local Authority Having Jurisdiction, it is necessary to size gas pipe for use in buildings.Keep in mind that while sizing the gas line, you need allow an additional 5 feet per elbow to the overall length.Because of the inefficiency of inadequate gas lines, appliances will function inefficiently, which may result in equipment failure and sooting.Installation of a 2 PSI regulator with Maxitrol regulators at the appliance if you are adding appliances to an existing system and find that the line size may be too small is recommended.Keep in mind to pressure and leak test your systems before putting them into operation.

REMEMBER TO BE SAFE!

Appliance	Input BTU per Hour (approx.)
Range, free standing oven – Domestic	65,000
Built-in oven or broiler unit – Domestic	25,000
Built-in counter top unit – Domestic	40,000
Water Heater, Automatic instantaneous
Capacity	2 gallons per minute	142,800
4 gallons per minute	285,000
6 gallons per minute	428,400
Refrigerator	3,000
Clothes Dryer – Domestic	35,000
Gas Light	2,500
Gas Logs	30,000

Nominal Pipe Size COPPER (in)	Pipe Length (ft.)
10	20	40	80
1/4 (3/8)	35	25	17	12
3/8 (1/2)	75	50	35	25
1/2 (5/8)	150	105	70	50
5/8 (3/4)	265	180	125	85
3/4 (7/8)	380	260	180	120
1 (1 1/8)	805	555	380	260
1 1/4 (1 3/8)	1450	995	685	470

Pipe Size (in)	Pipe Length (ft.)
10	20	40	80	150	300
1/2	235	160	110	75	55	35
3/4	490	340	230	160	115	80
1	925	640	440	300	215	145
1 1/4	1900	1305	900	620	440	300
1 1/2	2850	1960	1345	925	660	450
2	5490	3770	2590	1780	1270	870
2 1/2	8740	6010	4130	2840	2020	1390
3	15455	10620	7300	5020	3570	2450
4	31525	21670	14890	10230	7280	5010
5	57030	39200	26940	18520	13180	9060
6	92350	63470	43620	29980	21340	14665
8	189750	130410	89630	61600	43840	30135

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Frank Erickson

Amazon.com: Customer Questions & Answers

I will make an effort to provide additional information as time progresses.The first thing I’ll say is that an engine requires gasoline, which is delivered via a carburetor (in this case).… read on for more information I will make an effort to provide additional information as time progresses.I’ll start with the following: A carburetor is required to supply gasoline to an engine (in this case).The carb has a throat, which is a constricted aperture, similar to that of an hourglass, a bottle of wine, a bottle of syrup, and so forth.

It is possible that an engine just requires a little amount of fuel pressure, or that an engine requires a substantial amount of fuel pressure.″It depends,″ is the straightforward response.Generac has provided tables indicating the amount of ″inches of water″ pressure necessary for the various generator sets that they manufacture.It’s quite perplexing.So let’s be practical for a moment.Avoid placing the generator near your windows or doors, or near the windows or doors of a neighbor, in order to avoid noise and carbon monoxide poisoning.

When thinking about this, keep in mind the direction of the prevailing wind.Consider the route taken by the gas line pipes to reach the genset.You are expecting to avoid incurring significant additional costs during the installation; you are hoping to ″simply add more pipe.″ Allow me to suggest that you just add extra tubing AND place a ″inches of water″ gauge with a 0-15 range AT THE GENERATOR.

If the generator operation causes the gauge to dip below 5-7 inches of water, it is possible that you will need to increase the capacity of the gas pipeline.It is dependent on the situation.At the beginning of your new pipe system, you may wish to place another ″inches of water″ gauge.If that gauge never lowers below 5-7 ″inches of water,″ but the gauge at the genset does drop below 5-7, your new pipe is too tiny for the length of the run you have planned.

If both gauges show less than 5-7 ″inches of water,″ it is possible that your meter is too tiny.So, before you take out all of the pipes, contact to your gas provider about your low pressure and inquire about a larger meter, a modification to the meter regulator, and other options.view fewer images

Everything You Need To Know About Gas Piping

Note from the editors: We receive a commission from affiliate links on Forbes Advisor.The thoughts and ratings of our editors are not influenced by commissions.Maintaining the warmth of your house is especially important during the chilly winter months to ensure the safety of everyone and everything within.Natural gas is one of the most energy-efficient fuels for your furnace or boiler system, but homeowners shouldn’t just turn on their furnace or boiler system and forget about it.When natural gas is not properly controlled, it may be exceedingly harmful.

Leaks can cause poor air quality, fires, and even explosions if left unchecked.It’s critical to understand how your gas heating system operates in order to avoid these problems from arising in the first place.

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Estimates are provided without obligation.

What Is Gas Piping?

In your home, natural gas pipework is a piping system that is used to transport natural gas from the supply line straight to your heating system. Branches of the system connect specific appliances around your home, and the system is made up of branch lines. Descend lines, which are vertical pipes that drop down to an appliance, are connected to branch lines via branch lines.

How Do Gas Piping Systems Work?

Natural gas is delivered through gas pipe systems by the use of pressure.Gas moves from a higher to a lower pressure environment.After the natural gas is harvested, it is transported through a network of pipes that resembles a freeway, eventually reaching distribution systems that provide the gas to your home.Gas is delivered from a distribution line, also known as a mainline, into a home or other facility through a service line, which is the responsibility of the natural gas company to keep in good working order.Customers are liable for any and all equipment and gas supply lines that are located downstream of the service line they have purchased.

Before entering your house, the gas travels through a pressure regulator, which lowers the pressure of the gas.When you turn on your gas furnace or stove, the gas pressure rises slightly beyond the air pressure, causing the gas to flow out of the burner and into the heating unit, where it is ignited.

Gas Piping Cost

In the United States, the average cost to run a gas line is $550, with normal rates ranging from $265 to $850, or around $20 per linear foot, depending on the region.This comprises the cost of labor, supplies, pipes, and licenses.The cost of gas pipe varies depending on how complicated the installation is.Installations that are really complicated might cost more than $1,000.As an illustration, consider the situation in which pipes must be put beneath an existing driveway or structure.

Simple operations requiring the installation of pipes in a straight line directly from the main gas line can be completed for as little as $200.In order to install a new appliance, such as a water heater or furnace, or to convert your system from electric to natural gas or propane, you will need to install new or expand your pipelines as necessary.The entire cost of your gas pipes will be determined by whether or not you already have existing gas lines in place, or whether or not you must have totally new lines placed in your home.

Types of Gas Piping

Steel, black iron, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), high-density polyethylene (HDPE), and copper are the most often utilized materials in the manufacture of gas pipe systems.Some of these materials are not permitted by some utilities, so check with your local utility to see what is permitted in your region before installing any of them.If you engage a professional to complete the work, they will be familiar with the local regulations.

Flexible Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing

Corrugated stainless steel tube is flexible and easy to install, and it works well in compact spaces and in places at high danger of natural catastrophes, among other applications. Flexible corrugated stainless steel tubing can break with time, despite the fact that its flexibility helps to limit damage. It is recommended that you use this material solely for interior gas pipe.

Galvanized Steel

Energy-efficient and long-lasting, galvanized steel gas pipes are used for distribution of natural gas.Galvanized steel pipes are suitable for water supply lines since they may be used for both interior and outside gas lines.This material is commonly seen in older homes and is seldom utilized in new construction nowadays due to the fact that it is more labor-intensive than other building materials.

Black Iron

Black iron is the most frequent material used to construct gas pipes, which may be found both inside and outside buildings.The material is robust and heat resistant, and it may be molded into a tight seal when used in conjunction with other materials.Over time, however, black iron can corrode and the sealant on its surface might become compromised.It is recommended that you hire a professional for routine maintenance if your gas pipes are composed of black iron.

PVC

The durability and corrosion resistance of PVC gas pipes make them a good choice for subterranean gas lines on the outside of buildings. PVC pipes are a low-cost alternative, however they are not permitted in some places due to the possibility of their breaking during the installation procedure.

HDPE

HDPE pipes, like PVC pipes, are perfect for subterranean exterior lines that are not exposed to the elements. However, while these polyethylene pipes are flexible and reasonably priced, they are susceptible to damage from subsurface material such as boulders and tree roots.

Copper

Copper gas pipes have only a restricted number of applications since certain localities do not permit their usage. Because copper pipes have an estimated life of 20 years, they are subject to stringent code restrictions that restrict their use.

Gas Piping Problems

• Problems with gas pipeline can result in poor air quality, fires, and even explosions if not addressed promptly. Consider hiring a professional to evaluate and perform any required repairs to your heating system before turning it on for the season to avoid problems. Leaks, improper connections, rusting, hissing sounds, rotten egg odors, high energy bills, and problems with gas-powered appliances are all symptoms of a problem with your gas pipe system.

Top Gas Piping Brands

• In order to ensure the safety of your gas pipes during installation or maintenance, you should consult with a specialist. Gas is very combustible and potentially lethal, and only a trained specialist will know how to handle it safely. Because they have their own favored brands, the majority of specialists will source their own gas piping
• however, some will enable you to acquire the supplies on your own. The following are some respectable brands to consider: Southland
• HOME-FLEX
• and UNIVERSAL
• among others.

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Things to consider before installing a tankless

Tankless water heaters are a long-term investment that will provide you with continuous hot water while also saving you money on energy costs.Certain elements must be taken into consideration by both you and your plumber from the beginning in order to get the most out of them.Tankless water heaters require an in-depth examination of a number of crucial variables if you have previously relied on storage tanks for your water heater.When making the transfer and talking with your contractor, there are six things to keep in mind: Make sure you get the proper size tankless.Your plumber will need to figure out what size unit you need for your home.

The sort of tankless water heater that is most suited for a specific application will be determined by two factors: 1) the temperature of the incoming water throughout the year, and 2) the water consumption habits of the home’s inhabitants.Shortly put, your water heater must be capable of handling the lowest potential incoming ground water temperature in your location, which your plumber will compute and subtract from the intended temperature in order to estimate the maximum temperature rise, or ″Delta T,″ over a 12-month span.Afterwards, he or she will need to compute the maximum flow rates of all of the hot-water water fixtures in your home and add them all up.It is important that your new tankless unit is capable of meeting the needs of every fixture in your home, even if they are all operating at their maximum flows at the same time.Your plumber will be able to determine which tankless model is most appropriate for your home once they have this information.Check the availability of natural gas.

Tankless water heaters often consume more gas than their storage-tank equivalents for a given application because they must fulfill the unexpected demand for hot water when there is no storage.According to the plumber, you must ensure that you have sufficient gas pressure in your home to allow the unit to satisfy all of your gas demands.Following that, he or she should establish whether or not the gas line is of sufficient size to give enough gas to the water heater to function properly.

A standard tankless water heater will require a 34-inch gas line to operate.However, with certain tankless water heaters, such as the Noritz EZ Series, a 12-inch line may be acceptable if there is sufficient pressure and the run length is short enough.Just make sure that your plumber takes into consideration all of the appliances that are connected to the gas line, not just the water heater.It is the installer’s responsibility to ensure that gas needs and size comply with local licensing standards and codes.

Comply with air quality standards A tankless water heater, like any other type of water heater, requires sufficient incoming air to ensure that the combustion process operates effectively and efficiently, resulting in the greatest possible energy savings.Many units are vented directly to the outside, taking air for burning from the surrounding environment.Another option, depending on the environment, is to place the system outside.Consult with your plumber to find the most appropriate remedy for your particular situation.Don’t get too hot under the collar.

Following installation, the hot-water setpoint temperature should be only slightly higher than the highest temperature required for home usage.Shower temperatures are usually the warmest, ranging from 104°F to 106°F on average.Increasing the temperature is not necessary, and doing so may increase the likelihood of an unintentional scalding.If you’re concerned about germs, you shouldn’t be.Tankless water heaters, in contrast to storage tank-type water heaters, which can be prone to Legionella bacteria development (resulting in Legionnaires’ illness), do not keep hot water in which bacteria can thrive.

In reality, tankless water heaters continually drain any internal water out of the system with each usage of the system.Maintaining the quality of the water should be a priority.Water quality is a crucial factor for all water-related equipment, but water heaters are frequently the most adversely affected.Water hardness, which is a measure of the amount of minerals (magnesium and calcium) in the water, is particularly noteworthy.Heat causes these minerals to precipitate out of water and create crystals, known as limescale, that can accumulate in pipes and cause them to clog.Heat transmission efficiency is reduced due to the presence of limescale, which serves as an insulator (the fraction of heat energy that moves from the burner to the water).

• It is also possible that limescale would raise thermal stress, which will ultimately limit the lifespan of the water heater.
• Limescale may be removed from a water heater on a regular basis by performing a procedure known as descaling, which involves flushing vinegar through the water heater’s heat exchanger coils to eliminate any buildup of limescale.
• At the end of the day, it’s critical to understand the water quality in your area and take actions to either treat home water or build a maintenance plan.
• Condensation should be addressed.
• You must properly handle acidic condensate produced by a high-efficiency condensing tankless water heater before it can be discharged into the home drainage system.

If you are installing a high-efficiency condensing tankless water heater, a by-product of the combustion process is an acidic condensate that must be handled properly before the water is discharged into the home drainage system.Safe disposal processes should be determined by checking local building codes: It is possible that a neutralizer will be necessary to safeguard the plumbing within the residence.When planning your tankless installation, keep these six considerations in mind to ensure that you have efficient, on-demand hot water for many years to come.For additional information, please see www.noritz.com.

1. Thank you for visiting Noritz.

Tankless Water Heater gas supply sizing

Our water heater is on the verge of breaking down completely.Once the main burner is turned on, I’ve noticed that the voltage from the thermocouple gradually decreases until it reaches 9.9mv, after which it drops to 0 and the gas is turned off (the gas is most likely turned off because the voltage has dropped, as that’s what it’s supposed to do if the flame goes out).I realize that the thermocouple is most likely the problem, and that if I could find one, it would probably cost around $75, but the problem is that I, like many others, was completely unaware that the WH contains sacrificial anodes that are supposed to be checked and replaced AT LEAST every five years.Because the WH is 13 years old, it has never been examined or changed, and the anodes have been removed (verified – just the stainless wire at the center was left, and it was covered with limescale), who knows how long they will be gone.In any case, the tank as a whole is suspicious at this point, and I don’t want to risk investing any money in it because, while it *might* be fine, it might also be six months away from bursting into flames due to internal corrosion.There is no method, that I am aware of, to determine for certain.

• In addition, there is a significant amount of scale accumulation inside it.
• After that, I’m looking at the Rheem ECOH200DVELN-1 as a replacement for the current unit.
• Water heaters in tanks are far less expensive, and some suggest that tankless water heaters offer less savings than they promise, but for us, tankless water heaters would free up a significant amount of space in our mechanical/laundry room, which is already a tight squeeze.

In addition, there is endless hot water.However, there would be a significant amount of room.My issue and query are to the availability of natural gas.Despite the fact that it hasn’t been tested, I’ve been informed by the gas provider that the present supply pressure should be roughly 7.5 inches of water column.

I have 3/4 of what I need ″The supply line runs from the meter all the way to my furnace, which is the final item on the circuit.To provide a buffer, the length of the run is 40′ (it’s actually more like 30′, but I’d prefer to have that extra time to spare).According to my estimates, I’d need to deliver 301,900 BTUs with the tankless in order to keep the furnace, water heater, and dryer all operating.That equates to around 300CF/Hr of natural gas.This is where I become disoriented.

To achieve that flow rate, according to two of the tables in the Rheem installation manual, I’ll need either 1″ or 1 1/4″ pipe, respectively.However, they are both specified as having a ‘Inlet Pressure: Less than 2PSI’ (which is quite specific), with one having a permitted pressure drop of 0.3 In W.C.and the other having an allowable pressure drop of 0.5 In W.C., respectively.The third chart, on the other hand, is listed as ‘Inlet Pressure: 8.o W.C.Inches or greater’ (which is still below 2PSI and technically falls within the range of the previous two charts), and ‘allowable pressure drop: 3.0 inches’ (which is still below 2PSI and technically falls within the range of the previous two charts).

• This chart shows 40′ of 3/4-inch pipe with a capacity of 448CF/Hr.
• There is enough gas to run all of the gas-consuming appliances at the same time by a significant margin.
• My dryer and furnace would be amo