How To Install A Water Heater - ERNIEGRAVES | Process Measurement & Control

How to Install an Electric Water Heater

Installing a new electric water heater can allow you to save both money and electricity. How to do it is demonstrated in our video and step-by-step instructions. Please keep in mind that product pricing, availability, and item numbers may differ from market to market.

Before You Begin

Examine your water heater to see whether it need replacement or if routine maintenance would suffice. There might be a problem with the heating element or another type of maintenance issue if you are not getting hot water. Before committing to a complete replacement, conduct a brief maintenance inspection. If you have water on the floor or on top of the unit (as opposed to water leaking from a supply line above the unit), you’ll most likely need to replace your water heater as soon as possible.

A excellent time to think about upgrading or reducing your electric water heater is when your family’s size has increased or decreased.

If you’re not confident in your ability to complete water heater installation, hire a professional.

A decrease in pressure reduces the stress placed on plumbing systems and helps to increase the lifespan of appliances and fixtures.

Water Pressure

The water pressure in your house is critical for all of the equipment that use water. A decrease in pressure reduces the stress placed on plumbing systems and helps to increase the lifespan of appliances and fixtures. Check the water pressure in your house by attaching a pressure gauge to an exterior spigot. The optimal PSI ranges from 50 to 60 PSI. if the water pressure in your house is more than 80 PSI, use the pressure-reducing valve located near the main water shut-off to decrease the pressure.

If you don’t already have a pressure-reducing valve in your house, a professional can install one for you.

Expansion Tank

Decide the type of expansion tank you’ll require. It is possible to reduce surplus pressure in the lines of a closed system using thermal expansion tanks. A 2-gallon expansion tank can be used with water heaters that hold up to 50 gallons of water. For water heaters that hold up to 100 gallons of water, a 5-gallon expansion tank should be used. For for size information, see the manufacturer’s instructions. In most cases, the expansion tank is connected to the cold-water supply pipe near or above the water heater.

They simply slot into the pipe without the need for soldering.

Soldering paste should be applied to both the pipe and the fittings before assembling.

After heating the fitting, solder the connection together. In order for an electric water heater installation to be functional, the pressure in the expansion tank must equal the pressure in the main water supply. Increase the pressure by using a hand air pump, or decrease it by depressing the valve.

Removing the Old Water Heater

The following steps will walk you through the process of installing an electric water heater. When transporting a water heater, employ a helper, an appliance dolly, or a hand truck to ensure that the device is not damaged.

Preventing Scalds

Even with the temperature gauge set at 120 degrees, the risk of scalds remains a possibility. Children, the elderly, and individuals with delicate skin are particularly at risk of developing skin cancer. Consider adding thermostatic mixing valves to keep people safe from being hurt. Installed at the point of use faucet, fixture, or appliance, a thermostatic mixing valve regulates both the volume and temperature of water by connecting to both the hot and cold water supply lines at the same location.

DIY Water Heater Installation

Burns are still a risk, even when the temperature gauge is set to 120 degrees. Particularly at danger are children, the elderly, and persons with sensitive skin. Take into consideration the installation ofthermostatic mixing valves to avoid injuries. A thermostatic mixing valve, which is installed at the point of use faucet, fixture, or appliance, regulates both the volume and temperature of water by connecting to both the hot and cold water supplies. The settings may be changed inside the valve itself in order to give the most comfortable experience possible.

Introduction

When your water heater begins to leak, you must act quickly to have it repaired or replaced. We’ll teach you how to set up your own natural gas water heater in less than a day’s time. Even if you do not require a new water heater at this time, it is likely that you will require one within the next few years. Water heaters typically have a lifespan of seven to fifteen years. If yours is beginning to show signs of wear, this post is also for you. If you’re familiar with basic equipment and have a little expertise soldering copper, replacing a water heater shouldn’t be too tough.

Tools Required

Water and gas piping
Discharge pipe
Fittings
Pipe thread compound
Pressure relief valve
Solder. Ventilation pipe and connections
Pressure relief valve.

Getting Started Installing Your New Hot Water Tank

In this example, we’re swapping out a natural gas water heater for an electric water heater. The processes for replacing a propane water heater are identical to those for replacing an electric water heater, and the steps for replacing both are comparable. In any event, when it comes to arranging a water heater replacement, it’s best to be cautious. Call your local department of inspections and inquire as to whether or not you require a permit. Also, be certain that your work is checked by a plumbing or electrical inspector.

Plumbers normally charge between $45 and $65 per hour and can complete the installation of a water heater in a day or as little as 6-8 hours.

Gas water heaters with particular venting systems are also available, although they are more costly. However, because they are more difficult to install, we will not be covering them in this article.

Water Heater Parts and Breakdown

Fire pipe, cold water shutoff valve, draft diverter, temperature and pressure relief valve, overflow pipe, hot water outlet, anticorrosion anode rod, dip tube, elements, insulation, drain valve, thermostat or control valve, burner, thermocouple, gas supply valve, and more.

When to get a new water heater

When the tank of your water heater leaks, your water heater is out of commission. An indication that your water heater needs to be replaced is a gradual drop beneath the unit, which commonly manifests itself as a trail of discolored water. This indicates that the steel tank has corroded through and will be unable to be repaired. Other symptoms, such as little or no hot water, are typically indicative of other water heater repair issues that may be resolved by you. If you notice a drop, make a plan to get the water heater replaced as soon as possible.

New water heaters are sent with detailed installation instructions as well as several cautions to ensure that the gas, electrical, and other connections are handled properly.
However, you should be aware that you will be dealing with natural gas, propane, or electricity, all of which are potentially harmful.
And, after you’re finished, get your work examined.
You should explain to your local plumbing inspector how you want to install your new connections, including the sorts of materials you intend to use.

Figure A: Gas Water Heater Details

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family See the Additional Information section at the end of this article for instructions on how to print this image.

Figure B: Connections for Steel and Plastic Pipe

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family Water supply pipes in many residences are made of galvanized steel or polyvinyl chloride (CPVC). Replaceable galvanized steel pipes are quite difficult to come by. Using our photo series, we propose that you return the pipes to their original tees and screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple before finishing the connections with copper. Plastic tubing should be kept at least 6 inches away from the vent and tank due to the possibility of heat accumulation. Using a specific connection, you may make the transition from plastic to copper.

Flexible copper connectors are less difficult to install than solid copper connectors, which is especially important when the existing pipes and tank inlets do not match up.

If yours does, take extra care not to pinch or kink them when handling them.

Project step-by-step (12)

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-Us. Galvanized steel or polyvinyl chloride (CPVC) water supply pipes are often seen in many residences. Replacement of galvanized steel pipes is a time-consuming endeavor. Using our photo series, we propose that you return the pipes to their original tees and screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple before connecting the pipes with copper. Plastic tubing should be kept at least 6 inches away from the vent and tank due to the possibility of heat accumulation in the material.

You can find it everywhere CPVC is marketed.

However, they are not permitted by all local ordinances. It is very important not to squeeze or kink yours if yours does this. It is possible that you will have a leak.

Drain the water in the tank

Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and use it to drain the water that has accumulated in the tank. The water will be boiling hot, so proceed with caution! With a pair of wrenches, disconnect the gas line at the neighboring union and remove the pipe from the gas control valve with a pipe wrench to complete the task.

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Cut off the water lines

The vent pipe should be moved to the side once it has been unscrewed from the vent hood. After that, using a tube cutter, cut the hot and cold water lines. For galvanized pipe, remove the unions and, if you have them, remove the nuts on the flexible connections as well. Move the old water heater to the side of the room. Step number four.

Attach the relief valve

Teflon tape should be used to seal the threads of the new temperature and pressure relief valve (three turns). With a pipe wrench, tighten it inside the tank until it is completely sealed. Glue a copper discharge pipe to the wall (see Fig. A for routing details). Step number five.

Attach pipe assemblies

Solder fresh copper adapters to 6-in. lengths of 3/4-in. copper pipe and screw the assemblies into the hot water outlet and cold water inlet ports on the top of the tank’s tank’s tank’s tank. Make use of short, plastic-lined nipples to protect your pipes from galvanic corrosion, especially if you have hard water or if they are required by your local building standards. Step 6: Organize your thoughts and feelings about the situation.

Attach the water lines

Slide the new water heater into position, recut or lengthen the old tubing to connect it to the new, and solder the tubing together using copper slip couplings to complete the installation. If the tubing does not line up properly, use pairs of 45-degree elbows to adjust the alignment of the lines. Step 7 – Organize your time and resources.

Reattach the vent

Reconnect the vent if necessary. Place it securely over the draft hood and secure it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws to hold it in place. Prepare the holes by drilling them beforehand. Before turning at the first elbow, the vent should rise at least 12 inches vertically from the floor. In this eighth step, you will learn how to use a comma to separate the words “and” and “and not.”

Use two wrenches to attach the gas line

Reconnect the gas line if necessary. Pipe joint compound should be applied to the threaded ends before screwing the first nipple into the gas valve. To minimize straining the valve, use two pipe wrenches at the same time. Reassemble the remaining nipples, concluding with the union at the end of the process (Photo 2). Then, in order to fill the tank, perform these four steps: To check for leaks, perform the following steps: (1) cut off the main water valve; (2) re-connect the water at the main shutoff; (3) open the cold-water valve on the water heater (but do not close it); and (4) turn on a nearby hot-water faucet until water flows out.

Check for backdrafting

The majority of water heaters rely on a natural airflow to carry combustion emissions up the chimney and out of the building. If the draft does not operate, the fumes, which may contain lethal carbon monoxide, will be released into your home and cause you to become sick. Check the draft when you’ve finished installing everything. Close all of your external doors and windows, and put on the exhaust fans in your kitchen and bathroom. Continue to run a hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in your water heater come to life.

Ideally, the smoke should be drawn upward through the vent pipe. If the smoke does not draw, this indicates that the burner’s fumes are not escaping. Turn off the gas supply to the water heater and contact a certified plumber to diagnose and remedy the problem. Step number ten.

Check for leaks

When it comes to drawing combustion gases up the chimney, the vast majority of water heaters rely on natural airflow. The gases, which may contain lethal carbon monoxide, will stream out into your home if the draft isn’t working correctly. Check the draft when you’ve finished with your setup. Make sure all outside doors and windows are closed, as well as the exhaust fans in your kitchen and bathroom. Continue to run a hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in your water heater come on.

The smoke should be pulled upwards through the vent pipe to be expelled.

Turn off the gas supply to the water heater and contact a certified plumber to diagnose and remedy the problem.

In this final step, you will learn about

Light the pilot light

The pilot light should be turned on in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. (When using an electric water heater, turn on the electricity at the main panel after your work has been checked by the electrical inspector). Once you’ve finished, adjust the temperature to 120 degrees Fahrenheit according to the installation instructions. The pilot light in the new water heater should be lit, then the temperature setting should be adjusted.

Installation Details for Electric Water Heaters

At your main electrical panel, turn off all power to your water heater, then turn it back on. After that, empty the water heater in the same manner as you would a gas water heater. As soon as the water heater has been drained, separate the electrical wires from the screw terminals under the access panel, which is normally situated towards the top of the water heater. To handle all of the electrical wiring, you should engage an electrician if you don’t have any prior knowledge with it. When it comes to wiring the new water heater, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

x 4-in.
metal electrical box on the wall or ceiling near the water heater, route the old wires to the box, and then run a new length of armored cable or electrical conduit to the water heater to complete the installation.
The circuit should also have a shutdown switch that is visible from the vicinity of the water heater.
You’ll almost certainly require a permit.
Aluminum wire needs specific care and handling.

If you have aluminum wire, you should choose a qualified professional who is experienced in working with it. This wiring is a dull gray color, rather than the drab orange color that is characteristic of copper wiring. ‘Step 12’ is the final step in the process.

How to Dispose of a Water Heater

In this video lesson, Jeff Gorton, an editor at The Family Handyman, will show you how to remove and dispose of a water heater in the proper manner. He will also demonstrate a simple method of transporting a water heater out of your home, even if you are working on your own.

These tips will make your work go faster and easier:

To avoid modifying the length of your water, gas, or electrical lines, take note of the height of your existing water heater and get a new one that is the same height
On older water heaters, the drain valve (Photo 2) frequently becomes clogged. Please be patient if the water drains slowly. WARNING: The temperature is really high! TIP: Turn off your water heater two hours before you want to use it to enable the water to cool. Water heaters are around 150 pounds in weight. When you’re moving the old one out and wheeling the new one in, you’ll need a strong partner or a dolly to assist you. Ordinarily, garbage collection agencies charge approximately $25 to remove the old one. Before you begin, go to a plumbing supply or hardware store, or a home center, and purchase the equipment and materials seen below. Check the sizes of the water supply pipes (the majority will be 3/4 in., as shown in our photographs) and purchase the fittings that are the proper size. If you have everything you need, you should be able to complete the work in four to six hours (provided there are no major problems!). This safety mechanism, which controls tank pressure and prevents it from bursting, is located in the tank’s pressure relief valve assembly (Photo 4). It is necessary to include a fresh one with each installation. The discharge pipe must be kept clear of impediments in order for the valve to function correctly (see Fig. A). Use 3/4-in. plastic-lined nipples (about $2 each
Photo 5 and Fig. A) to attach other metals, mainly copper tubing to the steel tank, in areas where the water is highly mineralized or where it is needed by municipal laws. This has the effect of slowing rusting. In order to avoid heating the tank itself during soldering, solder the copper fittings before screwing them to the tank (Photo 5)
Slip couplings should be used to link the existing and new water lines (Photo 6). (Photo 6). They do not have an internal stop, in contrast to normal couplings. Alternatively, you may slip them on, align the copper tubing, then slide them back and center them over the junction
However, the new inlets and outlets on the tank don’t always line up with the old supply lines, and vice versa. If required, solder in a pair of 45-degree fittings to ensure that each line is offset. While you’re doing it, you should also replace the old cutoff valve with a new ball valve (Photo 6). The diameter of the vents is determined by the amount of heat produced by the water heater. In order to achieve the ideal draft, you may need to raise or reduce the ventilation size. CAUTION: If you’re not sure whether or not your chimney has a liner, consult with a plumbing inspector. Make gas connections using solid steel pipe (Photo 8) or soft copper tubing with flare fittings (Fig. A). Both are more dependable and less expensive than flexible stainless steel connections, which are not usually allowed in some applications. For the same reasons, rigid copper water supply lines should be used rather than flexible copper water supply lines
If your water heater replacement is located in a location where leaking might cause damage to the floor or other elements of the home, lay a pan of an appropriate size beneath it (metal for gas water heaters). a drain tube that connects to a home drain or another suitable site must be installed in the pan (outdoors where permitted). If a leak might cause damage to the flooring, the discharge tube for the temperature and pressure relief valves must also connect to a drain. If routing is a problem, consult with your local plumbing inspector about possible solutions. Special straps should be used to secure your water heater to the wall if you reside in an earthquake-prone location (Fig. A
Available at plumbing stores and home centers). If they are necessary, your plumbing inspector will inform you of this. Ensure that the new water temperature setting does not exceed 120 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid scorching

Additional Information

Water Heater Maintenance: How to Make Your Hot Water Heater Last Longer Lifespan How to Repair a Leaking Water Heater Installation of a Water Heater Instructions on how to replace the TPR valve on a water heater Solar Water Heater Made at Home How to Repair or Replace Water Heater Dip Tubes That Are Defective How to Flush a Water Heater (with Pictures) The Process of Purchasing a New Water Heater 7 Myths About Tankless Water Heaters That You Should Never Believe The Advantages and Disadvantages of Tankless Water Heaters

Learn How to Install a New Water Heater

Because professional installation may easily add $500 or more to the cost of replacing a traditional tank-style water heater, many homeowners are naturally interested in the option of doing it on their own. Furthermore, while it is considered an advanced project, DIYers with sufficient skill may frequently do the task themselves with a little forethought. It’s crucial to highlight that this is not a project for those who are just getting started. Examining the type of water heater you already have is the first step in learning how to install a new water heater in your home.

Then decide on the size: 30-, 40-, 50-, or larger-gallon containers.
You might consider upgrading to a larger unit if your old one did not provide enough hot water.
However, there must be enough space for the larger heater, the flue size must be correct with proper pitch, and the gas line supplied must be sufficient for the heater’s capacity.
Plumbers bid jobs on the basis of a full day’s worth of labor, however, because the project typically grows more intricate as time goes on.
If you’re not sure in your abilities in these areas, hiring a professional is the best course of action.
When it comes to dealing with gas lines, it’s important to always abide by municipal regulations.

Gas Water Heater Venting

It has been usual practice for many years to use atmospheric venting to vent the combustion exhaust fumes from a gas-fueled water heater. In this arrangement, a metal draft hood mounted on top of the water heater directed exhaust gases and a small quantity of fresh air from the room up a metal flue that ran through the roof or into a shared chimney, depending on the model. In many circumstances, connecting an existing flue and draft hood to a new water heater will be all that is required; nevertheless, there are other elements (such as the pitch and draft of the connections) that can make the operation considerably more involved than it appears.

However, the building code in some localities may demand that a new water heater be vented using a different method every time one is installed.

When living in an air-tight home, this is frequently essential to prevent the gas and airflow via the water heater flue from causing an air pressure differential, which can suck gases from the water heater burner into the dwelling.

This is seldom an issue in older, less air-tight houses, though. The process becomes more difficult if your code dictates that you upgrade from an atmospheric vent to a forced-air direct vent or powered direct vent. The majority of folks should hire a professional for this type of service.

Warning

All plumbing installations must be in compliance with the local plumbing code, so check with your local building authority to find out what is required in your region. Because installation varies depending on the location and the kind of heater, the following procedures are intended to serve as a general guideline only and may or may not apply to your specific case. As previously indicated, it is preferable to leave this process to the pros.

Materials

Purchase of a new water heater, as well as any necessary shimming, plumbing fittings, and plumber’s pipe-seal tape. a draft cowl for the water heater (if one is required for a gas heater)
Temperature and pressure relief valves (if not already given)
A drain valve for the water heater (if not already provided)
Fittings for vent pipes (where required)
Nipples for galvanized water heaters with a plastic liner (2)
Flexible water heater tubing (if required)
Flexible gas heater tubes (if required)

Shut off the Water, and the Gas or Electricity

Turn off the power to the existing water heater and disconnect the water heater’s plumbing. Turn off the water at the main water cutoff valve in the home or at a branch shutoff valve that controls the cold water that runs to the water heater in the basement. Then turn off the electricity or gas supply.For an electric water heater, turn off the circuit breaker on the water heater’s circuit at the breaker box in the home.For a gas water heater, turn off the gas supply. A 30-amp, double-pole breaker is commonly used for a gas water heater. To turn off the gas supply, turn it off at the cutoff valve on the gas pipe closest to the water heater. To turn off the water main, turn it off at the water meterHome-Cost.com

Drain the Water Heater Tank

A garden hose should be connected to the drain valve located towards the bottom of the water heater. Open the nearest hot water faucet, such as the one in the bathroom, to avoid suction from building up in the line, which can cause the draining to become sluggish. Place the other end of the hose over a floor drain or direct it to an open area outside. To prevent silt from clogging the drain valve, open it carefully when first turning it on. Allow the tank to empty entirely before turning off the valve and removing the hose from the tank. It is positioned at the bottom of the water heater, near the drain valve. Getty Images courtesy of Dorling Kindersley

Disconnect the Water Lines

Disconnect the hot and cold water lines from the water heater by using a pipe wrench or channel-lock pliers to tighten the connections. Flexible tubes (usually coupled with compression or union fittings) or soldered connections (soldered connections must be cut with a tubing cutter) can be used to connect the water lines to the heater.

Disconnect the Electrical or Gas Lines

Then, using a pipe wrench or channel-lock pliers, remove the hot and cold water lines from the water heater. Flexible tubes (usually linked together with compression or union fittings) or soldered connections (soldered connections must be cut with a tubing cutter) can be used to connect the water lines to the heater.

Disconnect the Water Heater Vent (Gas Heaters Only)

The vent pipe should be disconnected from the draft hood located on the top of the heater. In most cases, three or four sheet metal screws are used to attach the draft hood to the exhaust vent pipe. In certain cases, if the draft hood is in excellent condition, it may be possible to repurpose it with the new water heater.

Swap the Old Water Heater for the New

Use an appliance dolly with straps to move the old water heater out of the way and wheel in the new water heater. The use of a helper is recommended while moving water heaters up and down basement steps. When transferring the heater, make sure you tie it to the dolly with strong straps. Clean up the area on the floor where the old heater used to be. Bring in the new water heater and align it with the existing plumbing connections so that it is connected to the water heater’s plumbing system. Shimming beneath the legs of the new water heater can help to level it if necessary.

Tip

If you live in an earthquake-prone area, there may be brackets or straps that need to be attached to the wall to keep the water heater from moving about while in use. The water heater should be installed. Getty Images
Jim Zuckerman / Getty Images

Install the Relief Valve and Other Fittings

Install all of the necessary fittings that are required for the water heater to function properly. This always comprises a temperature and pressure relief valve (also known as a TPR valve) as well as a drainpipe for discharge. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install any additional fittings that may be required. Relief valve for high temperature and high pressure

Connect the Water Lines

Tie galvanized plastic-lined nipples to the cold water input and hot water outlet ports on the top of the water heater using stainless steel screws. In order to install the nipples, you must first cover the threads with plumber’s pipe-seal tape before threading the nipples into the apertures and tightening them using channel-lock pliers or with a pipe wrench. Connect the cold water pipe to the intake nipple on the water heater, and the hot water pipe to the output nipple on the water heater to complete the installation. In some circumstances, reattaching the flexible tubing that were removed after removing the old heater might be as simple as plugging them back in. When the water pipes are hard-piped into the water heater and cutting is necessary to remove the water heater, the operation becomes a little more difficult. The water heater nipples will be connected to the cold and hot water pipelines through the use of different threaded adapters, short sections of pipe, and union fittings, which will need assembly. The method you use will be determined by the type of pipe you have and the layout of your plumbing system, among other factors. If you have copper pipes, you may need to sweat-solder them together with a torch, but there are compression fittings, grip-fit (SharkBite) fittings, and PEX fittings that can be used with a variety of plumbing pipes. The installation of flexible tubes to link the hot and cold water pipes to the water heater is a suitable time to do so if you do not already have them in place. The water heater will be more easily disconnected if you ever need to repair or replace it in the future. Male-threaded adapters must be attached to both the water heater nipples and the ends of the hot and cold water pipes in order to do this. The flexible tubes are then threaded into the adapters and secured using coupling nuts that screw into the adapters.

Connect the Gas or Electrical Lines

Then, on the top of the water heater, attach galvanized plastic-lined nipples to the cold water intake and hot water output holes. The threads are sealed with plumber’s pipe-seal tape before the nipples are threaded into the apertures and tightened with channel-lock pliers or a pipe wrench, which completes the installation. Connect the cold water pipe to the intake nipple on the water heater, and the hot water pipe to the output nipple on the water heater to complete the connection. As simple as reconnecting the flexible tubing that were detached when removing the previous heater can be, in some circumstances, this is all that is required. When the water pipes are hard-piped into the water heater and cutting is necessary to remove the water heater, the operation becomes a bit more difficult. It is possible that you will need to build a variety of threaded adapters, small pieces of pipe, and union fittings to connect the water heater nipples to the cold and hot water supply pipes. The method you use will be determined by the type of pipe you have and the layout of your plumbing system, among other considerations. Using a torch to sweat-solder copper pipes may be necessary, however there are other fittings that may be used with other types of plumbing pipes, including compression fittings, grip-fit (SharkBite), and PEX fittings. The installation of flexible tubing to link the hot and cold water pipes to the water heater is a good time to do so if you haven’t previously done so. This will make it much easier to detach the water heater in the event that you need to make repairs or replace it in the future. Male-threaded adapters must be attached to both the water heater nipples and the ends of the hot and cold water pipes in order for this to be accomplished successfully. A set of coupling nuts, which are screwed onto the adapters, is then used to connect the flexible tubes.

Reconnect the Vent (Gas Heaters Only)

The draft hood should be installed at the top of the water heater, centered above the exhaust aperture, and then inserted into the exhaust pipe. Sheet-metal screws are used to hold it in place. You may need to reduce the vent pipe if the new water heater is higher than the old one. You may accomplish this by cutting the vent pipe down to size using metal shears or by installing a shorter pipe segment. Another option is to lengthen the vent by installing an additional vent pipe segment if your water heater is less than the standard length.

The new water heater should come with its own set of parts and operating instructions.

Tip

Shared venting with a chimney or flue that simultaneously serves a furnace (as seen above) is no longer permitted in some municipalities. This means that you may need to hire a professional to reroute the venting for your new water heater in this situation. Getty Images
Comstock / Getty Images

Complete the Installation

Connect the hot water faucet to a distant position in the home, then turn on the cold water supply valve to the water heater, allowing the water heater tank to fill with water until the hot water tap is turned off. When water begins to flow from the hot water faucet, you’ll know the tank is completely full. Turning the circuit breaker back on for an electric water heater will re-energize the circuit that supplies electricity to the water heater. If you’re using a gas heater, make sure the main gas valve is open and that the pilot igniter is functioning correctly by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Make your chosen temperature selection on the water heater’s thermostat (120 degrees Fahrenheit is suggested), then wait for the water in the tank to get up to temperature before using it. Turn on the heater and adjust the temperature of the water heater. Banks Photographs courtesy of Getty Images

How Much Does Water Heater Installation Cost?

Water heaters are one of the most often used household appliances in households all over the world, especially in developing countries. In the winter, having a running water heater is nothing short of a gift. When planning a water heater installation project, one of the factors to take into consideration is the cost of the installation. It costs $400 to $900 to install a 40-50 gallon water heater with a tank, depending on the size of the unit. The cost of installing a tankless water heater typically ranges between $1,470 and $2,500 in most cases.

Tank vs. Tankless Systems

Among the most often utilized domestic equipment in households all over the globe, water heaters are one of the most common. Water heaters that work properly are a godsend during the cold months. When planning a water heater installation project, one of the factors to consider is the cost of the installation. It costs $400 to $900 to install a 40-50-gallon water heater with a tank, depending on the model.

For a tankless water heater, the installation cost is typically in the $1,470 to $2,500 range. Several factors influence the ultimate cost of owning a water heater, including the number of people who will use the heater, running expenditures, and renovation work done in the property.

Labor

Plumbers often bill between $45 and $65 per hour. In most circumstances, a plumber can complete the installation of a water heater in a single day (6-8 hours). You should anticipate to pay anything from $270 and $520 for this service. Water heaters that are difficult to access may require an additional 2 to 3 hours of installation time.

Type of Water Heater

Natural gas water heaters, propane water heaters, electric water heaters, and solar water heater systems are some of the most common types of water heater systems available on the market. Natural gas systems are well-known for being affordable ($500-$700 per system). Natural gas water heater replacement in Alpharetta will cost you between $400 and $550 on average. A new natural gas water heater system installation in Alpharetta will cost you between $1,500 and $2,300 on average, depending on your location.

Although the average cost of installing an electric water heater is between $350 and $450, the initial cost might reach $500 if the installation is complicated due to structural issues.

Additional Considerations

If you wish to replace an old water heater, you should budget an additional $500 to the entire cost. Purchasing new piping will be necessary if your existing water heater pipe is broken or not compatible with the new system. New piping will cost between $8 and $10 per linear foot. Check with your plumbing contractor in Alpharetta to see whether you are required to obtain permits for a new water heater installation. Fletch Barney is the final stop in your hunt for a plumbing specialist. We have earned a reputation as one of the most dependable plumbing companies in Alpharetta.

Call us at 770-333-3031 if you’d like to speak with a professional about your project.

How to Install or Replace a Tankless Water Heater

Despite the fact that it’s a tankless job, someone has to do it. Leaving aside the dad jokes, installing a tankless water heater is a serious undertaking that should be approached with caution. Our goal is to make this process as simple and pleasant as possible, so we’ve included step-by-step instructions for both gas and electric units below. Take note that replacing a tankless water heater is a time-consuming process requiring advanced technical knowledge. So, if you aren’t confident in your plumbing and electrical abilities, it is preferable to engage a licensed professional – in certain areas, this is a legal requirement.

How to Install a Gas Tankless Water Heater

Somebody’s needed to undertake this job, despite the fact that there are no tanks available. Leaving aside the dad jokes, installing a tankless water heater is a serious undertaking that should be approached with care. We’ve included step-by-step instructions for both gas and electric devices to make the process as simple and pleasant as possible. Take note that replacing a tankless water heater is a time-consuming process requiring advanced technical knowledge.

a. If you don’t feel completely confident in your plumbing and electrical abilities, it’s better to employ a licensed expert – in certain areas, this is a legal requirement. When installing and sourcing items, make sure to meet all applicable electrical and plumbing requirements.

Step 1

Depending on the manufacturer, if their systems are not installed by certified professionals, the warranty may be voided.

Step 2

Make certain that you obtain all necessary state or local permissions before installing or upgrading a water heater.

Step 3

For water pressure more than 80 psi, you’ll need to install a pressure-reducing valve upstream of the new water heater before it will work properly. When establishing the cold and hot water connections (as described in the section below under “Establish the cold and hot water connections”), you should consider whether or not you need to install one.

Step 4

Make sure you check your local construction codes to see where you may put your water heater in your home. These tankless gas systems must be vented directly to the outdoors, rather than through a chimney, in order to function properly. Consequently, it is vital to identify a position where the unit may readily vent outdoors while also complying with local code requirements for vent placement. Carefully review the manufacturer’s installation instructions to ensure that you have adequate clearance around the device
Stay away from locations where:

Temperatures below freezing might have an impact on the unit. Any form of liquid might be sprayed on the device on a regular basis. There is a significant amount of humidity and wetness

Step 5

Make careful to accurately measure the space where you intend to install the water heater to ensure that you acquire the appropriate-sized unit.

Step 6

Tankless gas water heaters consume more gas than traditional tank-style water heaters. Determine whether or not your present gas line will be sufficient initially
If not, upgrade it. A professional contractor will be required to install a newer, larger gas pipe if your present gas line is unable to keep up with the demand.

Step 7

If there isn’t a shut-off valve before the heater, cut off the main water supply
Otherwise, turn off the heater. Remove the heater from service by closing all power and gas supply valves to it. Drain the contents of the unit.

When dealing with hot water, utilize a hose that is designed to tolerate high temperatures. To relieve pressure in the system, open a hot water faucet for a few minutes. Allow it to completely drain

Removing the water heater from the gas and water supply pipes is necessary. Make sure to properly dispose of your old water heater.

For information on how to properly dispose of it, contact your local recycling and/or sanitation agencies.

Step 8

Ensure that the device is properly supported by constructing a mounting box that is approximately four inches away from the wall. The foundation wall should be properly secured with appropriate anchors. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mounting the device to the box firmly.

Step 9

Hiring a professional contractor should be your first choice unless you have extensive knowledge with gas line installations. Utilize a threaded black iron pipe to connect the existing tee to the unit position if your present gas line is the suitable size and you can connect it without breaking the existing connection. Remember to switch off the main gas line before removing the down pipe from the previous unit if you’re replacing it. After ensuring that the gas line is routed to the right location, you should install a tee, a sediment trap, and a gas shut-off valve. The shutdown valve and sediment trap should be connected to the heater in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Install a new gas supply line from the tee to a location where it can be conveniently connected to the gas line of the new unit. You may utilize a black pipe or a flexible gas supply line to accomplish this task. Assemble the connections in the direction of the heater, starting with the tee, using two wrenches. Whenever possible, use thread sealant developed for gas lines when connecting gas pipe assemblies. After you have completed all of the gas line connections, you should test the line. Before turning on the gas, check the pressure with a pressure gauge.

Step 10

Connecting the water heater valves to the water supply line should be done according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Connecting new hot and cold water lines to existing water lines should be done with copper pipe. Continue to connect the wires to the new unit. It is possible that copper pipe will need to be cut and soldered to the unit.

Depending on whether your water system includes an anti-siphon valve or a check valve on the supply line, you may require an expansion tank close to the cold intake. More information may be found in your vehicle’s owner’s handbook. Bell hangers should be used to secure the pipe to the wall. Place the pressure relief valve in its proper location. Installing a purge valve and a pressure relief valve should be done according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 11

Make sure there are no leaks by turning on the water supply. To check for leaks, turn on the gas and wait a few minutes. It is possible that you will need to bleed the line. Afterwards, switch off the gas supply until the installation is complete.

Step 12

When it comes to correctly venting the device, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations as a reference. There’s a considerable probability that you’ll be able to vent your water heater straight through the rim joists in your home. Only utilize pipes that have been specifically designed for this sort of venting. In some cases, depending on the manufacturer, you may require a vent kit. Make sure that the vent shaft of the new unit is sealed with a heat-resistant silicone sealant. Afterwards, attach a connection to it and secure it with an appropriate hose clamp
Place a length of stainless steel vent pipe on top of the structure. Put on a retaining ring to keep it in place. Folding over the tabs can help to keep it secure. Slip an elbow inside a pocket. Make sure that the aperture faces the direction in which the unit will vent to the outside
Select a spot on the joist or wall that will serve as the center of the vent hole for the purpose of venting outdoors. Drill a hole from the inside of the building at the location you’ve picked. Make a circle on the outer wall with a vent thimble and tape it in place. A spade bit should be used to bore a 1-inch hole at the center of the circular. Remove siding and shingles from around the vent hole in order to allow the flange thimble to be flat against the outside wall
Caulk around the edge of the flange with silicone caulk to seal the edge of the flange to the outside wall. Then, place the flange into the vent hole that has been created. Use screws to securely fasten it to the outer wall and silicone to seal the screws in place. Installing the internal flange should be done from the inside. A portion of vent pipe should be routed through the flange aperture. Tabs should be used to secure each part. Attach a short portion of vent pipe to the outside of the house and then connect the vent hood
Put the shingles and siding back on the house that you removed previously.

Step 13

To remove air from the water pipes and heater, turn on the faucet to its full “hot” setting. Close the water supply valve

Step 14

Connect the water heater to the wall outlet. That is all there is to it.

Step 15

The hot water line that originates from the water heater should be insulated.

Step 16

The gas should be turned on when the installation is complete. Your water heater should be up and running at this point!

How to Install an Electric Tankless Water Heater

Installation and replacement of tankless water heaters may be quite expensive, as we realize. Installing your own unit is doable, but we recommend that you proceed with caution. This should only be attempted if you have extensive experience working with water lines and electrical systems. Installing your tankless water heater incorrectly might result in significant harm to your home. If you are considering a do-it-yourself installation, it is critical that you understand the terms of your insurance policy.

You can install your unit yourself if you are confident in your abilities and have double-checked with your insurance company.

Step 1

Depending on the manufacturer, if their systems are not installed by certified professionals, the warranty may be voided.

Step 2

Confirm that your electrical service panel has the capacity to manage the energy demands of an electric tankless water heater before installing one. It’s possible that you’ll need to upgrade your panel or install a whole new one. It is possible to uncover useful information by inspecting your electrical breaker box or the label on the electrical panel in your home.

You might also consult with an electrician. The majority of suitable water heaters require a minimum of four 40AMP breakers to deliver hot water for a two and a half bath house.

Step 3

Step 4

Make certain that you obtain all necessary state or local permissions before installing or upgrading a water heater.

Step 5

In order to heat water for the entire house, it is best to locate the unit closest to the area in which the majority of the hot water is consumed. If you’re installing a point-of-use system, try to locate them as near to the points of use as feasible. Always keep in mind that most electric tankless water heaters must be mounted vertically, with the water and electrical supply connections on the bottom of the unit. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for leaving a particular amount of clearance for service
In general, you want to stay away from locations where:

Temperatures below freezing might have an impact on the unit. Any form of liquid might be sprayed on the device on a regular basis. There is a significant amount of humidity and wetness

Step 6

Disconnect any circuit breakers that are connected to the new device. This is critically crucial!

Step 7

You don’t want your office to become a swamp!

Step 8

If there isn’t a shut-off valve before the heater, cut off the main water supply
Otherwise, turn off the heater. Remove the heater from service by closing all power and gas supply valves to it. Drain the contents of the unit.

When dealing with hot water, utilize a hose that is designed to tolerate high temperatures. To relieve pressure in the system, open a hot water faucet for a few minutes. Allow it to completely drain

Removing the water heater from the gas and water supply pipes is necessary. Make sure to properly dispose of your old water heater.

For information on how to properly dispose of it, contact your local recycling and/or sanitation agencies.

Step 9

Remove any screws that are holding the front cover of the new device in place
And Please keep in mind that you may need to remove at least one plug before you can set it aside.

Step 10

Any screws holding the front cover of the new unit together should be removed. Please keep in mind that you may need to remove at least one plug before you can put it away.

Step 11

Connections for the cold and hot water should be made. Colds are typically seen on the right side of the body.

The quickest and most straightforward method is to use stainless steel flex pipe with Teflon tape. You can also utilize copper tubing that has been rated for use in high-temperature environments. If you have to cut into a pipe, make sure the edges are clean. Before connecting the pipes to the water heater, flush them with water once they have been soldered. Also keep in mind that too much heat might cause harm to the water heater. If you want to do maintenance on your heater, it’s a good idea to install a shut-off valve before and after it. This will allow you to stop off the water supply to the unit without shutting off the water supply to the rest of your home
If you need to install a pressure reduction valve, you should do it immediately on the cold water side of the plumbing system. The installation of a temperature and pressure relief valve is unlikely to be necessary (T P). However, you should double-check your local and state installation rules to see whether or not you require a permit.

Step 12

In this case, stainless steel flex pipe with Teflon tape is the quickest and most straightforward solution. It’s also possible to utilize copper tubing that has been rated for high-temperature usage. Make sure to tidy up the edges of the pipe if you have to cut into one. Prior to attaching the water heater to the soldered pipes, clean them out with water. It’s also important to realize that too much heat might be detrimental to your water heater. If you want to do maintenance on your heater, it’s a good idea to install a shut-off valve before and after it. This will allow you to switch off the water supply to the unit without also turning off the water supply to the rest of your home
If you need to install a pressure reduction valve, you should do it now on the cold water side of the plumbing system
Temperature and pressure relief valves are not likely to be required in your situation (T P). It’s best to double-check your local and state installation codes, though, to make sure you don’t require one.

Step 13

This step must not be skipped!

Step 14

Heater on one side, and electrical panel on the other, is the recommended arrangement
Comply with the manufacturer’s wiring diagram and their instructions for selecting the appropriate wire, circuit breaker number, and circuit breaker size
And After cutting and stripping each wire set to the proper length, push the wires through the bottom holes in the new water heater’s housing. Then, fasten the wires to the appropriate slots on the terminal block using wire nuts.

For the most appropriate torque, see the product handbook. It is important to remember that a ground conductor must be connected to the circuit breaker panel and the grounding busbar of the unit for each circuit.

If you want to know what torque is best, see the product handbook. Take note that a ground conductor must be connected between the circuit breaker panel and the grounding busbar of the unit for each circuit.

Step 15

Make use of the screws that you already removed.

Step 16

The device should be turned on at this point. Select your chosen unit settings from the drop-down menu.

Step 17

Start by turning on the hot side of a faucet in your home. After the water temperature has steadied, take another reading. The temperature may be adjusted on the device itself if you desire to do so.

Learn More About Tankless Water Heaters

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