How To Get Fan Clutch Off Water Pump?

How to Remove a Fan Clutch From a Water Pump

Rina’s photo of breakage is from of cooling fan on your car is connected to its driving pulley by means of a clutch.Clutch fans are designed to alleviate strain on the engine while also saving gasoline.

  • When the engine is hot, the clutch fan operates at a high rate, and when the engine is cold, the clutch fan operates at a slower rate.
  • Using a valve, which opens and shuts to control the flow of silicone fluid between the chambers of the clutch assembly, it is operated.
  • The procedure for removing a fan clutch from an automobile differs according on the make and model.
  • Some broad guidelines apply to the majority of kinds.
  • Remove a fan clutch from any vehicle, regardless of the brand.
  • A special tool known as a strap wrench is required.

Step 1

While you are dismantling the water pump, position the strap wrench against the water pump’s pulley to prevent the pulley from spinning while you are removing the bolt on the front of the water pump that holds the fan clutch.

Step 2

Turning the huge nut on the front of the water pump counterclockwise with a wrench will allow it to be removed. It’s possible that you’ll have to tap the wrench with a tiny mallet to get it to turn. If it doesn’t turn, try turning it in the opposite direction. Depending on the manufacturer, some nuts are threaded to the right and some are threaded to the left of the nut.

Step 3

  • By rotating it counterclockwise with a wrench, you will be able to loosen the huge nut located on the front of the water pump. In order to get the wrench to turn, it may be necessary to tap it with a tiny mallet. If it still won’t turn, try turning it in the opposite direction of the clock. In accordance with the manufacturer, some nuts are threaded to the right and others to the left.

Warnings Before attempting to remove the fan clutch, let the engine to cool completely before proceeding.

Biography of the Author Donna Tinus has been writing professionally since 2005.As a medical terminology specialist with a background in writing, she has contributed articles to numerous websites on a variety of issues such as family and finances as well as medicine and health, pets, gardening, beauty, and relationships.Tinus graduated from Centenary College with a Bachelor of Arts in English degree.

Diagnose Cooling Fan Clutch

Home, Auto Repair Library, Auto Parts, Accessories, Tools, Manuals & Books, Car BLOG, Links, Index, Auto Repair Library AA1Car retains ownership of the copyright.A fan clutch is frequently used on engines that have cooling fans that are driven by a belt to conserve energy and minimize noise.In situations where more cooling is not needed, the fan clutch slows or completely stops the engine’s cooling fan.

  • When the vehicle is not moving quickly enough to produce appropriate airflow for cooling, the fan draws air through the radiator and air conditioning condenser to cool the car.
  • Depending on the size of the fan, the engine can lose anywhere from a few to 12 or 15 horsepower.
  • The fan clutch helps to improve fuel efficiency by decreasing parasitic horsepower loss on engines with large displacements.
  • The fan clutch also helps to decrease noise by slowing down or disengaging the fan when traveling at high speeds, and some models even assist in speeding up the engine’s warm-up time in cold weather.


Thermal fan clutches and non-thermal fan clutches are the two most common types of fan clutches (also called ″torque limiting″).The thermal cooling fan clutch reacts to the heat generated by the radiator.When operating at high temperatures, thermal fan clutches contain a temperature-sensitive bimetal coil spring on the front that reacts to variations in temperature.

  • As soon as the air entering the radiator becomes hot, the spring swells and opens an internal valve, which lowers clutch slippage.
  • This allows the fan to spin at a quicker rate, which results in greater cooling.
  • In response to cooling, the spring compresses and the valve is shut off.
  • Increased clutch slippage allows the fan to run at a slower speed and cool the engine more efficiently.
  • Silicone fluid fills the area between the plates of the fan clutch, which is located inside the fan.


Essentially, the clutch is made up of a fluid coupling that is filled with silicone-based oil.The silicone fluid is seen in the cutaway shot to the left, which shows the region between the teeth on the clutch plates being filled.An internal valve regulates the flow of fluid between the main fluid cavity and a fluid reservoir by opening and closing a channel.

  • When the channel is open, fluid is allowed to enter the clutch, which causes the fan to spin more quickly.
  • As a result of the valve being closed, fluid returns to the reservoir but does not return to the engine, causing the clutch to slide and the fan to run slower.
  • Unlike the thermal fan clutch, the non-thermal (torque limiting) fan clutch does not have temperature detecting capabilities.
  • It solely responds to fan speed, sliding to keep the maximum fan speed between 1200 and 2200 rpm, depending on the application, at a safe level.


An engine overheating problem that is caused by a sliding fan clutch is often disregarded as the root cause.Fan clutch fluid degrades with time, progressively increasing slippage as the clutch becomes more worn out (about 200 rpm per year).When the clutch has been in operation for a number of years, it may slide so poorly that the fan is unable to keep up with the cooling demands of the engine, resulting in the engine overheating.

  • It is common for replacement to be required at this time.
  • In addition to any looseness in the clutch (examine for fan wobbling), oil streaks extending outward from the clutch hub would be indicative of a failed fan clutch.
  • If the clutch is stuck, the fan may not be able to rotate freely, resulting in excessive cooling and noise, particularly at highway speeds.


When the clutch is spun by hand (with the engine off, of course), a decent clutch should provide a particular level of resistance.However, if the fan spins with minimal resistance (less than 1 to 1-1/2 rotations), the fan clutch is sliding excessively and must be replaced.If the fan binds, does not turn, or provides a significant amount of resistance, it has seized and must be replaced as well.

  • If you don’t have an optical tachometer, you may check fan speed by marking one of the fan blades with chalk and using a timing light to monitor speed variations.
  • You can also listen for changes in fan noise as the engine speed varies.
  • You should also try wriggling the fan blades with your hands.
  • A damaged bearing in the fan clutch or a worn bearing on the water pump shaft can cause the fan to wobble if there is any movement in the fan.
  • A faulty water pump bearing will almost always result in the water pump leaking and/or making noise, however this is not always the case.
  • Remove the fan clutch and inspect the water pump shaft to determine if there is any play.
  • If the fan clutch feels tight (there is no play or wobbling), it should be replaced.
  • What is contained within a mechanical fan clutch?


It is recommended by several experts that the fan clutch be replaced in conjunction with the water pump if the water pump has failed.The reason for this is that both age at approximately the same pace, thus if the water pump fails, it is likely that the fan clutch would break shortly after.It has already been established that a high mileage fan clutch may be sliding excessively, raising the risk of overheating in the vehicle.

  • Be sure to get the same type of fan clutch (thermal or nonthermal) as the original when purchasing a new fan clutch.
  • It is always possible to upgrade from a less efficient nonthermal fan clutch to a more efficient thermal fan clutch, but not the other way around.
  • Alternatively, you may eliminate the fan and clutch entirely and replace them with an aftermarket electric fan kit to cool the radiator.

More Cooling System Articles:

Pumping water is what we do.Diagnosis and replacement of defective parts Cleaning and Maintaining Your Cooling System Maintenance and repair of the cooling system Your Personal Temperature Alert The lamp is turned on.What Should You Do in This Situation?

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How to Use a Fan Clutch Pulley Removal Tool

When it comes to removing the cooling fan and clutch from the front of an engine, a fan clutch pulley tool is quite useful to have on hand.This tool is intended to be used to go around the bolts that secure the pulley to the water pump, holding it in place while another wrench is used to remove the actual fan clutch.Because of the rotating arm, these tools can be difficult to use at first, but as you understand how to use them, their purpose begins to make more sense.

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Step 1

Obtain access to the engine compartment of the car you’re working on. The pulley that the fan clutch is mounted to may be found in the center of your engine’s combustion chamber. There are bolts holding the pulley in place.

Step 2

Insert the slotted end of the fan clutch pulley removal tool into one of the nut holes on the pulley and tighten the tool.Then, with the tool still in place, put the pivoting arm onto the next closest nut, ensuring that the two nuts are held together by the same tool.Attach the hex-head shaft of the fan clutch to the hex-head shaft of the fan clutch removal tool set with the wrench that came with the tool set.

  • The fan clutch should be loosened by using the wrench while holding one of the other tools steady.
  • It is possible to either turn the tool over and try again or squeeze the two sections of the tool together with your hand if you notice that it is slipping on the bolts.
  • After that, disconnect the fan clutch from the engine.
  • What You’ll Need to Get Started Set of tools for removing the fan clutch pulley

Biography of the Author Russell Wood is a writer and photographer who graduated from Arizona State University in 2010.Since 1994, he has been designing and producing unique automobiles and trucks, including various cover vehicles.The year 2000 marked the beginning of Wood’s writing profession, and since then he has committed his business to writing about and photographing automobiles, as well as assisting people in learning more about how automobiles function.

Fan clutch – Wikipedia

The engine fan is driven by viscous fluid.Fan clutches are thermostatic engine cooling fans that are capable of freewheeling at low temperatures when cooling is not essential.This allows the engine to warm up more quickly while reducing unneeded stress on the engine.

  • As the temperature of the engine rises, the clutch engages, causing the fan to be powered by the engine’s power and to blow air to cool the engine.


During normal operation, when the engine is cold or even slightly warm, the fan clutch partly disengages the engine’s mechanically powered radiator cooling fan, which is typically placed in front of the water pump and driven by a belt and pulley that is attached to the engine’s crankshaft.This conserves energy since the engine is not required to run the fan to its maximum capacity.As a result, when the engine temperature reaches a temperature higher than the clutch’s engagement temperature, the fan is completely engaged, pulling a greater volume of ambient air through the vehicle’s radiator, which in turn helps to maintain or reduce the engine coolant temperature to a safe level.

  • Lexus LS 400 fan clutch replacement for 1994 model.
  • Mechanical fans are most commonly seen on pickup trucks and SUVs, as well as some rear-wheel drive vehicles.
  • This is made easier since the engine is oriented longitudinally, with the belt ancillary components mounted facing the radiator, rather than facing the other way around.
  • In most cases, the fan is placed on the crankshaft pulley or one of the auxiliary pulleys (for example, the water pump pulley), and it rotates between the radiator and the engine, sucking coolant back through the radiator and blowing it over the engine as it works.
  • Despite the fact that the air has been heated by going through the radiator, it is still significantly cooler than the engine surface, and the airflow over the engine aids in cooling the engine.
  • However, in front-wheel drive vehicles, the engine is typically mounted laterally, with the crankshaft and typically all of the major accessory shafts parallel to the front axle, allowing the transaxle to be driven directly by the engine.
  • In contrast, a fan mechanically mounted on an accessory pulley would blow sideways and would not direct airflow toward the radiator.
  • Electric engine cooling fans are therefore employed almost exclusively in front-wheel drive automobiles, which is a result of this.
  1. The conversion of mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical rotary power with a fan motor is less efficient than the conversion of mechanical energy to electricity and back to mechanical rotary power with a direct mechanical connection.
  2. However, the greater control of an electric fan through electronic thermostatic controls, which can turn the fan completely off when the engine temperature is below the setpoint, more than compensates for this.


Unlike a thermostat, the majority of fan clutches have viscous or ″fluid″ couplings that are paired with a bi-metallic sensing system that is comparable to that of the thermostat.Some clutches are operated by means of electronic controls (instead of bi-metallic strip).These have the capacity to regulate the amount of engagement based on a variety of different inputs, which is very useful.

  • Common governing elements include the temperature of the engine oil, transmission oil temperature, coolant temperature, pressures in the air conditioning system, and the temperature of the surrounding environment.


r/MechanicAdvice – Help removing fan clutch, I can’t seem to keep the water pump from spinning as I remove the clutch. I don’t see anywhere to put a tool to hold it still. Please help.

There is a specific tool for it, and you may be able to borrow one from a parts house.Level 1You will not like hearing this, but it is true.level 2I’ve previously hired it, and I can’t find a place to keep the tool that I’ve borrowed.

  • I can’t use the head of the bolts because the lip of the pull protrudes too far from the body of the pull.
  • level 1I’ve always used a chisel on an air hammer when I’ve done woodworking.
  • It’s not particularly attractive, but it serves its purpose admirably.
  • Edit: The vast majority of the time that I remove a fan clutch, it is to replace it after it has been involved in an accident.
  • Alternatively, you can utilize the air hammer fan tool attachment on level 2 to complete the task.
  • level 2Wow, that’s impressive.
  • I’ll give it a try.
  • 1st grade In order to get it to break free without spinning, pound the wrench’s end hard enough to cause it to break free.
  1. level 2It was the first thing I tried, but it worked.
  2. Thanks for your help.
  3. level 1It might be helpful to complete it while still wearing the belt if possible.
  4. level 1Are you using a strap wrench on the pulley?
  • The last one I completed, I was able to just apply pressure to the belt and keep it in place.
  • level 2Thank you for the suggestion; I’ll give it a go.
  • first level Insert a pry bar behind the pulley and use it to wedge the pulley in position.

Make use of the fan tool to free it from its restraints.level 1The quickest method would be to use an air hammer with a chisel attachment to cut the wood.It only takes a few of braps to get the item to come loose.Level 1 often consists of two wrenches, with one being used to grip and the other being used to slap.

The reverse thread on the Audis I worked on was the first level, and I’m not sure if this is true for other clutches.Did you double-check that?level 2I am aware of this; there is a label on the fan shroud that states ″left hand threaded.″ However, thank you.

level 2Do you want to reverse the thread?I would imagine that would give them the opportunity to turn the fan off immediately.1st grade Here’s what I found to be the most effective solution.

Used three little vise grips to try to keep it in place, but it didn’t appear to be effective because the pipe wrench continued spinning.I made a chisel out of a bar that I ground down using a standard hammer.I smacked it about 15 times, then used a pipe wrench to pry it off and it came loose.Woohoo!

Fan clutch is frozen to the water pump

We require assistance!When I saw that my water pump was wobbling, I opted to replace it.However, I am unable to disengage the clutch.

  • I have a fan clutch tool that hooks around the bolts on the pulley and makes it easier to remove the fan clutch.
  • Although I’ve attempted to remove the clutch using PB blaster and a tiny propane flame, all the wrench does is attempt to round off the nut on the clutch.
  • I attempted to remove the complete unit, but I needed an additional inch of space.
  • Anyone have any suggestions?
  • 2003 Trailblazer 2WD with a 4.2-liter I6 engine.

Are you certain that you’re using the proper-sized wrenches? Everything in this car is measured in millimeters; hence, employing an SAE ″equivalent″ may result in damage.

It’s the one that came with the kit, if you remember. It’s a touch on the large side. I’ll go out and get the correct size wrench the next day.

Take a piece of cardboard and lay it against the radiator’s fins; you will thank yourself later.Thin leather gloves are also recommended.Those fins have a lot of bite.

  • What I did was take off the fan blade, which made place for the clutch to be installed.
  • I also adjusted the plastic shroud to allow for more wiggle room; I believe that removing the top radiator support may allow for more wiggle room, but I haven’t tried it.
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There are several videos available on this topic.This is the strategy I use on a regular basis: And this one is particular to our platform and includes capabilities that are only available on our platform: If you’re really stuck, a chain will come in handy: Alternatively, a bar (change the time forward to 7:00): Others have attempted to utilize a zip gun, which has also been successful.I also don’t have that wimpy wrench, which is a bonus.

  • I use a big adjustable wrench for this task.
  • A pipe wrench might potentially be used in this situation.
    I used a pipe on the end of a large adjustable wrench.

  • 7

Mine was a little stuck, to say the least. I came close to passing out when attempting to remove it. I was given permission to use an air hammer by a friend. It takes less than 3 seconds to remove the fan clutch nut using this approach; all you have to do is get the edge of the nut.

When dealing with recalcitrant clutch fan nuts, I use the following procedure: (while still wearing a serp-belt) place a snug wrench on the nut and move the wrench clockwise until the other end of the wrench contacts the frame, crossmember, or solid ″stopper″ on the engine.After that, press the ″start″ key for a little period.That will loosen 99 percent of the fan clutch nuts, crankshaft bolts, and timing gear bolts on your vehicle.

  • For the record, Honda engines will not function since they are designed to rotate in the opposite direction of the engine.
  • Also, it may be a good idea for a novice to deactivate the ignition and/or fuel first, in order to prevent the engine from starting while the wrench is on the fan blades.

My tbss did not include any nuts. Do yourself a favor and appreciate that you even have them. When I switched to e fans, it was a pain.

Well. I’ve made the decision to give up. I fastened a chain to the frame. Attach a pipe wrench to a 3 foot length of galvanized pipe. Instead of letting go of the fan, use caution. I managed to break the pipe wrench and have a very large knot in my hair as a result of the pipe.

Here’s the wrench


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Here’s the pipe


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Flyntgr1 stated that everything was ok.I’ve made the decision to give up.I fastened a chain to the frame.

  • Attach a pipe wrench to a 3 foot length of galvanized pipe.
  • Instead of letting go of the fan, use caution.
  • I managed to break the pipe wrench and have a very large knot in my hair as a result of the pipe.
  • Where has the picture of the Knot gone?
  • (Just kidding, I’m delighted you’re still conscious.) To be clear, doing things my way minimizes the likelihood of suffering a head injury.

I, on the other hand, did not give up. I was able to get it out as a whole unit after some minor modifications to the shroud.


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Congrats! Now, what are you going to do in order to disengage the clutch from the water pump motor?

Flyntgr1 commented: Granted, it’s a moot point at this time, but I noticed your chain was on the right side of your body. You were spinning it in the opposite direction of the clock since you were facing the front, correct?

That’s something I was thinking about as well. Is it possible that you were turning the wrench from the driver’s to the passenger’s side? Basically, this is the standard method of unscrewing.

I was rotating it in the opposite direction as the clock. The chain was fastened to the left side of the pump, but once the wrench snapped, the pump began to revolve to the right.

Wow, that thing is actually fused to the wall!You’re probably going to replace the water pump anyway, so you might as well use torch heat to get that sucker out of the way while you’re at it.Another alternative would be to pick up a fan, shroud, and pulley from a junker in a nearby yard for a low price.

  • It was easier for me to remove one from a junker than it was for you.
  • When you eventually replace the radiator, trim a piece of the shroud from the top to assist clear the radiator hose outlet on the top of the radiator.

After all, I attempted to heat it up again last night, but it would not come off.Originally, I had intended to replace only the pump and not the fan clutch.However, I changed my mind.

  • However, owing to the fact that it sounds like a jet taking off, I’m not convinced it didn’t need to be replaced in the first place.
  • In order to obtain access to the pulley and fan blade at this point, the only thing I would gain from dismantling the pump fan clutch assembly is access to the pump fan clutch assembly.
  • RockAuto, on the other hand, has the pulley for $8.55 and the blade for $79.79.
  • In order to complement the new pump I’ve purchased, I’ve bought those parts as well as a fan clutch.

I’m a cheapskate. For the fan to come out, I would have heated the heck out of the clutch nut or perhaps chopped it off with a hacksaw. It has to be completed in some form or another.

I, on the other hand, did not give up. I was able to get it out as a whole unit after some minor modifications to the shroud. How did you manage to get yourself behind the pulley? Due to the fact that I am experiencing the same problem with my 2002 Trailblazer LS, I am at a lost as to what to do.


Likes lights and stuff

  • 23

How did you manage to get yourself behind the pulley? Due to the fact that I am experiencing the same problem with my 2002 Trailblazer LS, I am at a lost as to what to do. That person has not returned to the forum in more than 4 years, thus he will not be considered for assistance. What have you attempted thus far? Have you tried any of the approaches mentioned in post5?

How to Remove Fan Clutch Without Tool Like a Pro

When you need to replace your water pump or make more space, you may need to remove the fan, but the pulley will continue to rotate in tandem with the fan bolt.It is not feasible to take it out in one piece.Typically, individuals remove fan clutches using a variety of different sorts of equipment.

  • What if you did not have access to such equipment, would it be difficult to remove fan clutches from the fan motor?
  • Without a doubt, this is not the case.
  • There are also other options available for consumers who want to manage the removal of fan clutches without having to invest in additional gear.
  • And for now, we’re going to go through a couple different techniques for removing the fan clutch without the need of a tool.

How to Remove Fan Clutch without Tool: 2 Simple Methods

Professionals employ tools such as the fan clutch tool, Chevy pulley holding tool, and other similar devices, and they recommend them to customers who wish to remove their fan clutch from their water pump.However, some folks have made their own DIY equipment to replace those sorts of tools and have still been successful in getting their fan clutches out.There were probably some failures among those tests, but for the sake of this article, we will only discuss the successful methods of removing a fan clutch without the use of any type of expensive instrument.

Method 1: Tape

This may appear to be the simplest and most cost-effective method of eliminating fan clutches.But everything works quite well, therefore it shouldn’t be a major concern even if it is inexpensive or appears to be ridiculous.Duct tape is the sort of tape that must be used for this procedure to be successful.

  • Before you can use the duct tape, you must first remove the serpentine belt from the vehicle.
  • This may be accomplished by using a wrench to twist the tensioner pulley upwards and in counterclockwise rotations, as shown in the illustration.
  • After you’ve completed this step, you may use the duct tape to secure the bottom of the tie-down strap to the pully at its base.
  • While you’re working on the water pump’s cooling system, remove the auxiliary belt and put it aside.
  • Afterwards, you must release the tension by untangling the auxiliary belt from its attachments to the other pulleys.
  • However, ensure that this belt is still wrapped around the water pump pulley, as it is this pulley that rotates in conjunction with the fan clutch during operation.
  • Maintaining the wrap ensures that the pulley comes to a complete halt.
  • Now all you have to do is undo the bolt with a torque wrench and you’ll be able to remove the fan clutch.
  1. The auxiliary belt is designed to grasp pulleys and prevent them from sliding.
  2. Instead of utilizing rubber grips to hold the pulley in place while using your torque wrench to torque it, the auxiliary belt is more effective at retaining the pulley in place.

Method 2: Prying Device

You’ll need to wrap a strap around the pulley and grasp the serpentine belt on both sides of the pulley.Now you’ll need a tire iron or a long pry bar to finish the job.If you don’t have any of these items, you may make due with a piece of wood that is approximately 2 × 2 inches in length.

  • After you’ve gathered your supplies, you’ll need to determine which side of the belt you’ll be wearing your prying device on.
  • Your selection will be based on the way the nut will spin in order for you to remove the fan clutch from the fan motor.
  • After you’ve decided which side to use, press the prying device against the belt and tighten it using the torque wrench.
  • When you do this the belt will tighten up on the bottom of the prying device and will wrap around the belt, allowing it to grab the pulley more firmly.
  • Whether you are loosening or tightening the knot, the pulley is now secure and strong, and will not turn under any circumstances.
  • Final Remarks If you don’t want to spend the money on expensive tools or have to wait for an order of a tool to arrive, constructing your own DIY tool with equipment that you already have laying about in your shed is a viable option.
  • The most frequent go-to tool that you can alter to aid you with removing fan clutches is a super-thin wrench.
  • You can find instructions on how to modify this tool here.
  1. You can then simply insert it between the pulley’s bolts and twist it in a counterclockwise direction with no difficulty.
  2. There are other solutions that come with hazards, however the preceding approaches have shown to work without causing any harm to the fan clutch or any other element within the water pump.
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How do you remove the fan clutch off a water pump?

  1. Started a discussion on Oct 8, 2010 and has 16 posts.
  2. Joined on Sep 26, 2010.
  3. On my 1993 Ford F250 7.3 turbo diesel, I need to repair the water pump, and I’m not sure how to do it.
  4. I need to know how to remove the fan and fan clutch from the pump so I can replace the pump.
  5. I was under the impression that I just needed to remove the four bolts behind the fan clutch where it attaches to the water pump pully, however it appears that those must also be removed, and then the fan clutch must be unscrewed from its mounting bracket.

When removing the fan clutch from the water pump, what should you look for?Thank you for any assistance.:icon mad: Registered on April 5, 2008 with 17,604 posts You’ll need the special tool designed for removing the large nut on the rear of the fan.You may either rent the set for free (with a deposit) from AZone or purchase it from Harbor Freight.It may also be purchased from almost any A/P retailer.

  • It’s important to double-check that it’s for the FORD because there are varied sizes based on the car manufacturer.
  • Registered on Mar 25, 2001 with 11,887 posts.
  • Isn’t it left hand thread like the ’91s and older Chucksters?
  • Chuckster with a later body type and serpentine belt.
  • Registered on April 5, 2008 with 17,604 posts Registered on April 5, 2008 with 17,604 posts Isn’t it left hand thread like the ’91s and older Chucksters?
  1. Chuckster with a later body type and serpentine belt.
  2. His car is a 1993, therefore it should be the same as mine, which is a 1994.
  3. THREADS on the LEFT HAND SIDE Joined Sep 26, 2010 16 Posts Discussion Starter 6 Oct 8, 2010 Joined Sep 26, 2010 16 Posts As stated on the fan shroud, the left hand threads for the fan are present.
  4. As a result, one of the tools attaches to two of the bolts that keep the water pump pully in place, and the other tool is a rench that is designed to fit the large nut behind the fan clutch.
  5. So I’m going to go look for the tool, and I appreciate everyone’s assistance.
  • Registered on Mar 25, 2001 with 11,887 posts.
  • It is done in a variety of ways by various men.
  • When I got the right sized end wrench (1 7/8?) years ago, I used to place a wad of shop rags between a belt and pulley to prevent the fan clutch from rotating, and then beat the wrench with my hefty rubber hammer in the clockwise motion.
  • Registered on April 5, 2008 with 17,604 posts It is done in a variety of ways by various men.
  • When I got the right sized end wrench (1 7/8?) years ago, I used to place a wad of shop rags between a belt and pulley to prevent the fan clutch from rotating, and then beat the wrench with my hefty rubber hammer in the clockwise motion.
  • Others have suggested using a tapered pry bar and/or an air chisel and tapping it hard on one of the flats of the nut to get the nut to loosen.
  • This is not a good idea.
  • Registered on Mar 8, 2009 with 6,680 posts People will tell you all sorts of bizarre and unbelievable things.
  • In order to extract my pitman arm, a Kragen employee suggested I bash it with a hammer just so, which is a good method to completely destroy your steering box and cause it to malfunction.

Napa, on the other hand, has just the proper puller.Joined on November 10, 2003, with 1,427 posts.Alternatively, if you find yourself imprisoned in a small Vermont rural town with nothing but time on your hands and a cutting torch, you may create your own.For my old 6.9, I used to remove two pulley bolts and thread them through the holding tool, which worked well.

  1. On September 26, 2010, I made 16 posts as a discussion starter.
  2. On October 9, 2010, I made another 11 posts.
  3. I was able to locate the tool in Napa and will complete my water pump replacement the following day.
  4. Thank you all for your assistance.

Started a discussion on Oct 9, 2010 and has 16 posts.Joined Sep 26, 2010 and has 16 posts.Is it correct that if I’m standing in front of my vehicle and looking at the motor, the large nut behind the fan clutch needs to be turned towards the drivers side in order for it to loosen?Also, I need to change my gasoline filter.Do I simply remove the old one and replace it with the new one, or do I need to do anything else first, such as empty the water or whatever else out of the old one before I remove the old one?Registered on April 5, 2008 with 17,604 posts Is it correct that if I’m standing in front of my vehicle and looking at the motor, the large nut behind the fan clutch needs to be turned towards the drivers side in order for it to loosen?

  • Also, I need to change my gasoline filter.
  • Do I simply remove the old one and replace it with the new one, or do I need to do anything else first, such as empty the water or whatever else out of the old one before I remove the old one?
  • YUP!
  • and it may be simpler to do so while the belt is still on.
  • As far as the fuel filter is concerned, just remove it and replace it with a new one that has been filled with fresh gasoline or an additive, such as SeaFoam, as desired.
  • 148 posts since joining on September 25, 2010 It indicates in the description that the fan clutch(Happy Chuck?) rotates in a clockwise direction when viewed from the front of the vehicle, which I believe is correct.

I believe my shroud specifies left-hand threads; thus, if the wrench is positioned at the 12 o’clock position from the front of the car, would it need to be turned to either the Pass or Driver side of the vehicle in order to loosen?In addition, the car is not present at this time, otherwise I would have figured it out by now.Thank you very much!Also, Chuck, that tool you linked to does not identify our diesel; does it continue to function as intended?On the Napa website, they are asking for $75 for their tool, whereas the other wrench set on Oreilly’s website is advertised at $125.

I like the sound of $20, but I want to be certain that the money is used in the proper manner.Joined on September 26, 2010 and has 16 posts.9th of October, 2010 Discussion Starter 15 The $20 tool I purchased was insufficient; the $20 tool is intended for rangers and f150s only.

  1. The auto motive store near my house had it available for rent; you only put down $75 and you receive $75 back if you return it within 24 hours of purchasing the tool.
  2. In order to loosen the fan clutch, it must be turned towards the driver’s side.
  3. Righty loosen, lefty tighten.
  4. Thank you for everyone’s assistance.

Registered on April 5, 2008 with 17,604 posts Furthermore, the description specifies a clockwise spin while looking at the car from the front.I believe my shroud specifies left-hand threads; thus, if the wrench is positioned at the 12 o’clock position from the front of the car, would it need to be turned to either the Pass or Driver side of the vehicle in order to loosen?As BCM previously said, the direction should be towards the DRIVERS side.Threads on the left hand tighten as you spin counterclockwise (left) The right hand threads become tighter as the clockwise rotation continues (right)

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